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Old 04-05-2012, 07:25 PM   #1161
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RB,
I may have the same problem on my 2011 27FB. Did you deal with customer service at Jackson Center or your dealer? Who did the repair (factory or dealer) and can you advise exactly what they did please? Are you satisfied with the results? Any advice is welcome.
Don
I got approval from Randy McNeeley Airstream Customer Support Team and C&G Trailers in Los Angeles removed,treated with corrosionX and installed new running lights.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:25 PM   #1162
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Outstanding! Glad to see they're taking some responsibility for manufacturing errors. I didn't get anything but some advice, regarding corrosion issues, from Airstream during the warranty period. If I recall, they suggested I sand it off, and cover it with clear nail polish. Guess I didn't make enough noise.
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Old 04-05-2012, 08:40 PM   #1163
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Greetings. I posted earlier that I was starting the process of dealing with massive corrosion at the belt line. Now, I have "brass wheeled" one side and it looks better. I need to ask for types of sealers that might be recommended. Many have used the stainless paint on small areas and it looks great. I ordered it and plan to use it on open areas like others. The belt line is a larger area. What might be recommended for that? Local business people recommended Krylon Fusion for plastic as it would bond to both metal and the clear coating edge. The retired service guy who maintained planes said to use a self etching coating epoxy (clear). I am not sure if I should use clear or aluminum color. Most of the area will be covered up by the belt line extrusion that I ordered from AS but some may show. Ideas? Nail Polish just sounds so temporary to me. I plan to coat it trim it and then seal the top with arcyl-r.
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:08 AM   #1164
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Rod,

Iv'e tried brush-on automotive clear, Thomas' water based clear,(came with the stainless paint) and a quality nail polish. Believe it or not the nail polish has lasted very well, 4+yrs on some spots, damn hard stuff. More difficult to blend but does last.

When used sparingly the stainless paint & clear worked well around my entry door handle bezel, you might try that first on the belt line corrosion. It's water based and easy to work with, can be wiped clean to get rid of the opp's. This pic is three years after application.

POI....use small artist's brushes to avoid dropping hairs in the paint.


Bob
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Old 04-06-2012, 07:36 AM   #1165
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How about this?
A "maintenance" item per the AS online store - High quality clear coat in a convenient pen applicator.

https://store.airstream.com/product_...roducts_id=428

-Chris
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:08 AM   #1166
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I believe that was discovered to be a Ford clear.

Bob
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Old 04-06-2012, 08:42 AM   #1167
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I keep the Airstream store clear touch-up handy. Easy and convenient, puts on a decent thin layer.

doug k
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Old 04-06-2012, 09:50 AM   #1168
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Here's a pic

Ok, this is my first pic of what I have to work on. The end caps are the worst of it. This is a before shot at the dealer in February:

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Old 04-06-2012, 11:35 AM   #1169
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Rod,

Wow...I can see why your using the brass wheel brush.

I believe the belt moulding will cover most of it though.

Make sure the corrosion is sealed well before installing.
Double stick tape on the back, correct?
Consider using blue painters tape as a guide along the rivet line and to hold it, easier to make sure it's level and get an idea just how much of the corrosion might be visible after install.
Clean the panel's real well with mineral spirits before & seal the edge of the moulding with acryl-r after install.

Good Luck...keep the pic's coming.

Bob
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Old 04-06-2012, 12:34 PM   #1170
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Will do on the picks and the acryl-r. I have been working like a banshee. This week I got the HDMI cables fished through and hooked up my new electronics. Nice. Ran both TVs with blue-ray just 'cause I could and wired the backup camera through the trailer again but this time it is working better. I will finalize that job, replace the 7-pin connector, paint the propane tanks, replace the microwave with one that fits then get on the corrosion. I have the belt-line, certain areas like the stove vent and the wheels to do on that job. Once that gets done it will be looking good- can't wait!
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Old 04-08-2012, 07:00 AM   #1171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rbphoto

I got approval from Randy McNeeley Airstream Customer Support Team and C&G Trailers in Los Angeles removed,treated with corrosionX and installed new running lights.
RB,

Thanks for the reply. When you say they "removed" do you mean they sanded the affected spots or they removed and replaced the entire aluminum panel(s)? I'd like to know before I make my call to customer service. Also, how receptive were they to rectifying your issue?

We just pulled our trailer from storage and there is corrosion at every running light and other areas. The airstream is not even a year old yet!

Don
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:34 AM   #1172
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We just pulled our trailer from storage and there is corrosion at every running light and other areas. The airstream is not even a year old yet!

Don
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Don,

If you haven't already...

I would advise starting a phone and paper trail to JC, expressing your concerns.

There IS a chance you will get a positive result, despite the warranty disclaimer.

Bob
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Old 04-09-2012, 09:50 AM   #1173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DMT View Post
RB,

Thanks for the reply. When you say they "removed" do you mean they sanded the affected spots or they removed and replaced the entire aluminum panel(s)? I'd like to know before I make my call to customer service. Also, how receptive were they to rectifying your issue?

We just pulled our trailer from storage and there is corrosion at every running light and other areas. The airstream is not even a year old yet!

Don
They removed running lights, spot treated the areas with corrosionX and replaced the running lights. They were not very receptive to doing this and I think because it was only 6 months old they relented.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:32 AM   #1174
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We would like to know how these newer LED running (clearance, teardrop, whatever)lights are removed. One has said they snap on, another they must be broken to get off.

Anyone know ?

doug k
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Old 04-09-2012, 11:14 AM   #1175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
We just pulled our trailer from storage and there is corrosion at every running light and other areas. The airstream is not even a year old yet!

Don
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Don,

If you haven't already...

I would advise starting a phone and paper trail to JC, expressing your concerns.

There IS a chance you will get a positive result, despite the warranty disclaimer.

Bob
I intend to next week. And I will not take no for an answer either. Stay tuned....

Don
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Old 04-10-2012, 08:45 AM   #1176
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Angry

Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
We would like to know how these newer LED running (clearance, teardrop, whatever)lights are removed. One has said they snap on, another they must be broken to get off.

Anyone know ?

doug k
They have to be broken off.
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Old 04-10-2012, 09:04 AM   #1177
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Break to remove . . . that makes maintenance tough. Looks like my lenses and frames get a bead of sealant all around.

doug k
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:03 AM   #1178
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Question

Anyone got a pic of these offending lenses? Riveted on? Can the lenses be removed?

Never taken ours completely off but they do have phillips at either end, so I believe they can be removed.

Bob
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Old 04-10-2012, 10:04 AM   #1179
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There is a tab at both ends of the lens itself. It is unfortunate that the lens can not be removed without breakage. The LED board sits on the chrome plastic base, and there is a gasket between the housing and skin. I had a side marker replaced. The tech used some sealant between the gasket and skin. I thought it was a waste, but it was a warranty repair.

Be careful when pulling the wires, if I remember properly, the butt joints were not staggered and both will not fit through the hole.
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Old 04-16-2012, 09:03 PM   #1180
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OK, another update. I spent the last week and a half brushing corrosion off, using "the X" and then cleaning and painting. I was aggressive on the belt line. I have on hand four paints - the stainless paint, Krylon's outdoor spaces aluminum, Krylon's performer series and stainless spray on. I must say that I found none of them to match very well. The closest was the Krylon outdoor spaces aluminum. I put two coats of paint on the beltline followed by two coats of Krylon's fusion clear coat. I contacted them and was told that fusion was for tough applications with adherence problems. I will be installing the beltline trim and insert over this.

I am ok with the outcome of the painting of the belt line but am unhappy with my open area painting - around the door latch, around the stove vent and around two running lights. It frankly sticks out like a sore thumb. Sure the corrosion is gone but now I have painted spots. So, I am tired of trying to match them. My areas of corrosion were much larger than what people shared on here I had areas nearly 2 inches in diameter around the stove vent. So, I am going to put it all back together and consider looking for some type of decal or something later. I never painted so much in my life as the last week. I tried them all. The stainless paint is sensitive to being played with after drying. The Krylon performer paint turned completely gray after sanding and lost any matching ability. I also had trouble with 400, 600 and 2000 grit sandpaper on the stream. I had to use rubbing compound.

I can say that I have conquered the six years of corrosion on my AS but not without some significant scars - 4 of them to attest to the battle! A retired Airstream dealer (my neighbor) looked at it yesterday and was intrigued by the issue of corrosion. He had not seen an AS in 15 years. He just told me to enjoy the nice rig and not worry about the spots. Easy said. We will see. Does anyone have any decal solutions for around the door latch or around the stove vent?
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