Seal the areas with brush on clear, larger spots I have used Thomas' Stainless paint.
The areas I've addressed, have not gotten worse. But you must inspect regularly for new outbreaks.
Wash and seal regularly.
Ck out some of my posts for more details.
Acryl-r is a self leveling sealant used on narrow seam gaps.
CorrosionX is a filiform treatment, (I no longer use), have had better luck with WD-40.
Other's have different method's...I just do what works for me.
It's all here on this and the other corrosion threads.
Bob
Bob,
Just curious - I assue that the WD-40 and clear coat are separate and different approaches to dealing with the problem?
What I mean is that I am guessing you cannot put clear coat over WD-40?
I just sanded and painted my door hinges and battery box door frames with Thomas's Stainless paint. I guess it is cheating a bit but I didn't want to invest all the time to try sanding and polishing.
The corrosion was pretty bad on these parts on our trailer - possibly due to the salt used on the roads? I'm not sure if it is the same sort of corrosion as the filiform that appears on the skin - just seemed to be large blistering areas of white corrosion.
I'm fairly happy with the job that the stainless paint did, we'll see how it holds up - sure looks a lot better than it did before anyway! Also easy for me to touch up if I need to.
"Just curious - I assue that the WD-40 and clear coat are separate and different approaches to dealing with the problem?"
Brian,
You assume right.
Iv'e started using a dental scaling tool to remove the filiform completely, much more precise, then cleaning thoroughly with mineral spirits and cover with clear.
I use the 40 to wipe down the affected seams periodically, also great for cleaning the stainless segment protectors.
How did the Stainless paint turn out for you? Pic's?
I also considered using it on the hinges and battery surrounds but ended up brush painting the hinges and polishing the battery surrounds.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
Bob, CorrosionX has worked well for me stopping small lines of filiform because it penetrated the filiform and prevented expansion.
You have had better luck with WD40. How has WD40 worked better than CorrosionX? (WD40 is a lot cheaper but has a lot more solvent as I understand it.) I can see where the CorrosionX penetrates filiform lines because they change color from a bright white to a gray color.
Our new trailer doesn't have any yet but no doubt it will. As a preventative measure I treated all edges and rivets with CorrosionX and continue from time to time. My experience was with our last one.
I just felt the X was suspect as far as stopping the corrosion, also as you noted the color change was a little drastic for me.
I use the 40 to soften the filiform before removal with the dental scaler, then clean well with mineral spirits before covering with clear or water based Thomas' stainless paint.
Here is an example of the stainless paint around the entry door handle which was done three years ago.
The after pic's were taken last Fall. I'm pleased/happy how well it's held up.
After washing I usually wipe down any suspect seams/areas with the 40, mostly to displace any water that may seep into the seam. It hasn't affected the sealer I've been using on the panels in lieu of wax.
I do plan to test a carnuba wax this Season to see if it's an improvement over the sealant.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
I just felt the X was suspect as far as stopping the corrosion, also as you noted the color change was a little drastic for me.
I recognized that picture.... I would point out that the metal is already discolored to a dark gray/black once you get underneath the white junk. The X just seems to make that discoloration more pronounced upon application. I have doctored that spot and others a little more with the X and think it has stopped the growth. However, I think I will try layering a bit of T-9 on this one just to see what happens. At this point...it's all experiemental for me.
I can never remember how to attach pics, but I will try!
I was reasonably happy with the way the stainless paint worked, about teh only problem I had was that I ripped off the masking tape too soon ( I did this work while we were traveling in Florida!) and it lifted a bit of the SS paint which was still soft so I had to touch it up where that happened.
I will re-do it at some point, in the meanwhile, I think it looks a lot more presentable than it did before. Hinges came out about the same.
I think the corrosion we had in these areas was worse than most I have seen looking at other AS trailers during our travels.
Brian (Currently in Asheville NC on our way home!)
Been reading this post with interest...'cause I thought AS trailers were damn near indestructible...more or less 'the Rolex of trailers'
Okay corrison problems aside...if you had your choice of any trailer/RV on the market, would you still choose an Airstream?
Our old 68 doesn't have any of the corrosion problems of late but she sure does have a lot of beauty marks......even though she has a polished coat....but I still like the style of the Airstream.....with all of her issues.....would do it again....and have....we have purchased 3 and still have 2...paula
__________________
Paula & Ed
WBCCI # 8252 Air#13593
1982 24'Motorhome (82Ste P)
So this like more of a 'cosmetic' issue? This corrosion is not "Airstream Cancer?"
We are picking up a 2011 FB FC today! Traded the 19 Bambi.. We had a lot of the white crud on the Bambi. It bugged me to look at it, but that was about it. I did all the steps with Q Tips, and the corrosion stuff, then kept it coated with the special AS stuff. It didn't spread the four years we owned it..
It also didn't make any difference when pulling it, sleeping in it, or trading it in. We are obviously happy w AS, or we wouldn't be getting the second one.
I've read many of the posts dealing with corrosion and, being a realist, knew that it was a question of when, not if, I had to deal with it. So I'd like to ask once again (knowing that this horse is well beaten), your input on my coarse of action.
For the taillight assembly, door handle and battery box frame:
My plan is to remove the protective coating with mineral spirits or scraping. Allow a coating of corrosion x to work on it for a while. Remove with mineral spirits. Allow to dry. Polish with Met All. Finish with a coating of plasticoat. All of this is with the area well taped to protect the surrounding areas.
For the white veins coming out of the rivets: Remove the clear coat using mineral sprits and scrape the corrosion away using a sharpened plastic putty knife (recommended by Jackson). Treat with corrosion X. Let sit for a bit then remove with mineral spirits and replace clear coat with either clear nail polish or the pen that I bought of the Airstream website.
After treating the seams, protect with a layer of Boeshield and continue to Walbernize twice a year.
I would appreciate any heads up as far as potential pitfalls or any additional steps that you would suggest.
Used this is the procedure for the battery door frames, the polishing/sealing was the final step. Plan to use the same this year for the tail light bezel's.
Check post #489 for how I refinished the entry door hinges'.
You have a good plan stay with it.
Bob
__________________
I’m done with ‘adulting’…Let’s go find Bigfoot.
Cosmetic I can live with...everything gets time and trail worn...(I understand this every time I look in a mirror) but as long as this does not affect the structural integrity of the unit, I'm cool with it.
I am going to begin posting on my process for dealing with this monster. I want to thank everyone in this forum who has posted on this issue for the benefit of learning. So far it appears that the process is 1)sand the area to remove surface corrosion, 2) prep the area for sealing with paint/sealer coat, 3) Seal the area. I have read outside reports on aluminum issues - NASA, etc. This is not specific to Airstream. A few years ago a new alloy formula was recommended in a study called marine grade- to be called such as a category. At any rate we have what we have right? I am just starting my work. My coach sat for six years unchecked it would seem so my condition trumps what I have seen here in pics. The beltline is my first target. I purchased two types of brush wheels on the advice of a retired plane maintenance guy at our church - a brass brush 3/4" wide 3" diameter flexible for working around rivets and a nylon finisher brush for use before painting. I started the work and the brushes are fantastic! On other advice I soaked the area in corrosion X. When the brush action begins there are pops of the corrosion areas with a powdery release then the area turns black from the corrosion X getting to the metal. I clean and then reapply the corrosion X and move on to the next area. So far I have one side done. What a difference! My next step will include sealing. I am still finalizing recommendations on what to use. It should be some sort of paint substance as an oil sealer is like suntan lotion - easy go. From what I have read, the choices vary from acrylic clearcoats to polymer epoxy type products. The issue is that some epoxies do not stick to aluminum very well. Let me mention though that according to what I have read so far, saltwater has nothing to do with our corrosion problem (they call it a misconception in two studies) but a natural process accelerated by humidity which is usually higher in coastal areas. It is obvious that on our AS the "edges" of cut or puncture of rivets are the points of exposure.
Robert, great process and beautiful door frame! What paint did you use in your coats? After prepping, was paint the only coating type?
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