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Old 03-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #1101
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Better than nothing thats for sure.

Bob
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:59 PM   #1102
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I don't own a new airstream I have a 1977 argosy. It seems to me that all these corrosion problem started when airstream changed the aluminum. The old ones where made of a better grade of aluminum. I think it was aircrafgrade aluminum.Much harder alloy. But anyway when you have two different type of metal coming in contact with each other you get corrosion. Thats how they make wet batteries. Remember the aluminum wiring in houses. The aluminum wire was fastened to the metal box with a brass screw. The aluminum been the softest metal corroded away and your house burnt down. So whats this got to do with airstream trailers. Well from the pictures I've seen It's mostly around light bezels. Are the bezels insulated from the aluminum with a rubber gasket. Does the wire going throught the aluminum skin go through a rubber grommet. are the bezels attached to the trailer with a stainless steel fastener. Other metals such as electro coated fastener do not work ONLY STAINLESS STEEL. or plastic fastener. That picture of the plastic door catch with the two screw fastening it to the skin and it ate the holes out. I don't think the screws were stainless steel.The picture of the door hinge by cloud splitter has two steel spacers against the aluminum and how is it attached to the trailer probably not stainless steel.
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Old 03-08-2012, 11:13 PM   #1103
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We would definitely be interested in class action! Just don't know who'd take it on-any lawyers out there with an Airstream willing to get this going?
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:28 AM   #1104
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Originally Posted by geirws View Post
I don't own a new airstream I have a 1977 argosy. It seems to me that all these corrosion problem started when airstream changed the aluminum. The old ones where made of a better grade of aluminum. I think it was aircrafgrade aluminum.Much harder alloy. But anyway when you have two different type of metal coming in contact with each other you get corrosion. Thats how they make wet batteries. Remember the aluminum wiring in houses. The aluminum wire was fastened to the metal box with a brass screw. The aluminum been the softest metal corroded away and your house burnt down. So whats this got to do with airstream trailers. Well from the pictures I've seen It's mostly around light bezels. Are the bezels insulated from the aluminum with a rubber gasket. Does the wire going throught the aluminum skin go through a rubber grommet. are the bezels attached to the trailer with a stainless steel fastener. Other metals such as electro coated fastener do not work ONLY STAINLESS STEEL. or plastic fastener. That picture of the plastic door catch with the two screw fastening it to the skin and it ate the holes out. I don't think the screws were stainless steel.The picture of the door hinge by cloud splitter has two steel spacers against the aluminum and how is it attached to the trailer probably not stainless steel.
geirws,

POI...After 18 Seasons with a 63 Safari the first thing I did with the Classic was replace ALL, exterior fasteners with stainless, I learned that lesson early.
The door retainer corrosion started where the coating was compromised at the screw holes.

I didn't re-finish the entry door hinges and battery door frames because of filiform corrosion. Much the same as the taillight bezels on some coaches it was done because of poorly applied clearcoat.

Filiform is not Galvanic corrosion.

Yes... the problem became more prevalent, after Airstream stopped coating trailers in house. The alloy may very well be different, but I don't think is is the main reason for the prevalence of filiform on the newer trailers.
Anywhere the clearcoat is compromised on the pre-coated panels the chance of filiform is enhanced.

In my experience the ONLY way to stop it from spreading is to clean the filiform completely and re-coat the area with clear.

Prevention is helped by keeping all the seams and panels sealed,(Acryl-R, waxing and or paint sealer) and frequent cleanings.

Bob
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Old 03-09-2012, 07:59 AM   #1105
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San Diego? Ft. Meyers? Salt sea air contribution problem?
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:13 AM   #1106
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San Diego? Ft. Meyers? Salt sea air contribution problem?
Definitely, if close enough to get direct exposure to the salt mist, similar too northern road salt. Any area with compromised clearcoat is vulnerable.
Two three miles away....not so much. Sea born fog, more-so.

Bob
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:41 AM   #1107
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Those of you with the "problem", do you think it may have started from the trip from JC to your dealer?
I mean, if it was when the roads in Ohio or any states roads enroute to the selling dealership were treated for ice and snow.
Even if you live in AZ, the trailer may have went thru a few days of salt before it even reached the dealership during delivery from OH.
Sure, it got washed at the final destination, but that road treatment gets into all the nooks and cranies.
It sometimes takes a couple of years for the stuff to show up on the outside of the vehicle.
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Old 03-09-2012, 08:45 AM   #1108
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The trailers are built in a state where salt is used on the roads. They are transported on roads where salt is used. There may be some salts in the water used to wash them—such as soft water. How much road salt is stirred up when winter is over and how much dry salt creates a salt solution when it rains would be hard to estimate, but surely some gets the trailers that way. Salt is everywhere. Some places there's even more of it and corrosion happens faster there.

What about corrosive chemicals in the air? A lot of air pollution was cleaned up decades ago, but progress on that has stalled since. Do you live downwind from a coal fired power plant? A cement plant? Chemical plant? How far does this stuff spread?

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Old 03-09-2012, 09:22 AM   #1109
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We as owners must face the fact that Airstreams are metal, much of it exposed to the elements, and it will corrode. You can wait for it to happen (it will) or take measures to minimize the damage. It doesn't matter if the Airstream is new or a premium product, it has exposed metal and will soon corrode.

The bad environments are near salt water and northern road salt, and humid air. I've seen older trailers in desert climates with virtually no corrosion, new trailers in the north and near coasts that have it.

Frequent washing and waxing. Treating with products such as Boeshield T9, CorrosionX, WD40 to protect or neutralize rivet/fitting holes where wax can't reach and cut edges will make a difference. Replace screws with stainless as needed. Clean and paint larger patches of corrosion. Touch up nicks and scratches as soon as you can.

You need a calendar inspection and maintenance plan, more frequent in corrosive conditions. No point in blaming the company because they aren't going to do anything but build it, then its yours to maintain. I wish they would tell you that in the sales pitch but of course they don't. Plastic trailer companies don't tell you about delaminating either.

doug k
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:13 PM   #1110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluto View Post
Those of you with the "problem", do you think it may have started from the trip from JC to your dealer?
No, I don't.
After my corroded tail light bezels and grab handle were replaced by the dealership under warranty (not Airstream, they refused), the same corrosion appeared about a year later. We live over 10 miles from the coast, and rarely camp in a salty environment. When I do, I have always rinsed when I get home. Being as diplomatic as possible, I believe these particular parts are just poorly manufactured. Based on my experience, I believe it to be sub-standard parts and craftsmanship, and/or quality control by Airstream.

In addition, I've been to the factory 4 times, and they still slide the aluminum sheets across the cement floor on their edges, effectively sanding the clear coat off, during the build. I wish they had allowed us to take pictures.

Just my unwavering opinion. As usual, I could be wrong, am frequently am.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:29 PM   #1111
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...
What about corrosive chemicals in the air? A lot of air pollution was cleaned up decades ago, but progress on that has stalled since. Do you live downwind from a coal fired power plant? A cement plant? Chemical plant? How far does this stuff spread?
Gene

We bought a new Jeep Cherokee in 1997. In under a year, the paint on the hood started flaking off. Just the hood, everything else was perfect. The dealership maintained that it was "acid rain" causing the paint to peal, and refused to correct the problem. After a little research, it turned out to be a widespread problem with this model and year. After contacting Jeep with this information, they actually agreed to repaint the hood. We were over 30 miles east of the nearest coal fired power plant. We were glad the company took responsibility for the defect.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:34 PM   #1112
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"After my corroded tail light bezels and grab handle were replaced by the dealership under warranty (not Airstream, they refused), the same corrosion appeared about a year later"

SR,

It's a lot of work but you can remove the clear and polish them out.
Much easier to do once a year, and not worry about the clear.

Bob
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Old 03-09-2012, 05:10 PM   #1113
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"After my corroded tail light bezels and grab handle were replaced by the dealership under warranty (not Airstream, they refused), the same corrosion appeared about a year later"

SR,

It's a lot of work but you can remove the clear and polish them out.
Much easier to do once a year, and not worry about the clear.

Bob
Thanks for the tip, Bob. That should be fairly easy because the corrosion on the bezels has limited itself to the rear flat surface, and not on the sides.
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Old 03-10-2012, 08:52 AM   #1114
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Thumbs up Sanding....

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Thanks for the tip, Bob. That should be fairly easy because the corrosion on the bezels has limited itself to the rear flat surface, and not on the sides.
I started with 600 grit wet paper and finished with 2000 to get the "brushed" look on the battery doors. Worked on the entrance handle too!

Have Fun...it WILL be worth the effort.

Bob
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Old 03-12-2012, 03:48 PM   #1115
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I thought I'd take a short break from today's CorrosionX application to post just how pleased I've been with the product since I started buying it directly from Corrosion Technologies Corp. I'm becoming quite proficient with its use, and I've discovered that I prefer the 16 oz. trigger spray bottle over the aerosol can that Airstream sells.

When placing my last order, I considered springing for a gallon for just $93.50, or better yet, a case of 4 gallons for just $374.00 (fortunately though, before I completed the purchase, I remembered that I'll be attempting to tow this thing with just a 1/2 ton, so I came to my senses and limited the order to two 16 oz. bottles). Hopefully that will last me till I get to my next destination in a few days.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:35 PM   #1116
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I started with 600 grit wet paper and finished with 2000 to get the "brushed" look on the battery doors. Worked on the entrance handle too!

Have Fun...it WILL be worth the effort.

Bob
Thanks again. Maybe I can get it done before I take it to Alumapalooza again...
or not.
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:43 PM   #1117
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Thanks again. Maybe I can get it done before I take it to Alumapalooza again...
or not.
I can vouch for Honey Brown and/or Blue Moon or possibly both, for the needed
sustenance to successfully accomplish the task.

Bob
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:08 PM   #1118
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exhausted reading

Greetings.

I just read through about a third of this thread. Can someone summarize a solution who knows the thread. In the part I read Acry-rIS and ACF50 were being used. Then the threads moved to Corrosion X but now... Is there a process that is showing promise?
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Old 03-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #1119
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No solution....

What I do...

Remove the filiform.

Seal the areas with brush on clear, larger spots I have used Thomas' Stainless paint.

The areas I've addressed, have not gotten worse. But you must inspect regularly for new outbreaks.

Wash and seal regularly.

Ck out some of my posts for more details.

Acryl-r is a self leveling sealant used on narrow seam gaps.

CorrosionX is a filiform treatment, (I no longer use), have had better luck with WD-40.

Other's have different method's...I just do what works for me.

It's all here on this and the other corrosion threads.

Bob
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Old 03-28-2012, 05:40 AM   #1120
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I am declaring war on this filliform. I have read NASA reports, Checmical company reports and of course, this forum. There has got to be some solutions to halting it. I will be getting the beltline trim.

I keep trying to post a pic but this site will not let me. The pic is 85kb.
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