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Old 02-16-2009, 10:34 PM   #631
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
ref post #622
These have appeared since Winterizing last November.
Only a few of at least 20 spots on the rear end cap's
Sanded and cleared yesterday....what now? Cr@p looks like I missed one.
Oh yes, I'm very happy they can't be seen from ground level.

Hi, I thought you did a great job by painting the door hinges and the battery box frames, but the end caps? that's a whole new animal.
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Old 02-17-2009, 02:17 PM   #632
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I am also finding corrosion on my trailer. I will do a complete inspection with photos in the next few weeks as soon as time presents itself. My trailer is under a cover canopy and receives no direct sun or rain except when in use. I am posting in the thread as it seems as the most logical place to document the problem in case AS ever decides to correct the problem.

Thanks to those who have started this thread and maintain it.
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:31 PM   #633
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I am also finding corrosion on my trailer. I will do a complete inspection with photos in the next few weeks as soon as time presents itself. My trailer is under a cover canopy and receives no direct sun or rain except when in use. I am posting in the thread as it seems as the most logical place to document the problem in case AS ever decides to correct the problem.

Thanks to those who have started this thread and maintain it.
Jim,

Let me be the first to welcome you to our not very exclusive club....sorry.

632 posts in less than 2years.
I've tried several different methods to deal with it,(filiform) none of which have been very successful. Some have appeared to keep it from spreading but don't look very good. It's very difficult to get the repair to blend in. Oh well maybe this year.

Misery loves company...post 'yer pic's and you'll blend right in
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Old 02-17-2009, 03:38 PM   #634
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I'm heading out to an RV show this weekend where I believe Airstream will be represented. I'm bringin' my camera just in case.
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Old 02-17-2009, 04:13 PM   #635
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I'm heading out to an RV show this weekend where I believe Airstream will be represented. I'm bringin' my camera just in case.
ST
I've got a bottle of Happy Camper Red that sez 'ya find some, might not be fillyform......but hinges, battery doors, taillight frames, dented stainless, don't forget your ladder to ck the roof.
Gotta stop now DW came in said I'm cause'n trouble again, sez what if AS reads these posts. Thats the whole idea honey!! She couldn't believe it when I went from "The Frantic Banana" to "Rolling Corrosion"
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Old 02-20-2009, 05:56 PM   #636
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Been following this thread for some time now after noticing the same corrosion problems on my "baby" which is just over a year old now (17ft Safari Sport). Just today I gave it ,its monthly wash as it stays outdoors in a storage facility. I noticed many new spots of this "corrosion" around reflectors, indicator lights etc and am wondering what to do next. Thinking about taking it to CG trailer works and seeing what the good people there can do for me. I totally sympathise with others who have saved up money for a long time to buy the Airstream of their dreams only to be saddened and disappointed by the slow corrosion that we are all seeing .I definitely appreciate the information sharing here.
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:38 PM   #637
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Rn,

Keep watching this thread. We are all trying to find a good solution. The Mother-ship won't even recognize it as a warranty problem so it's up to us.
About all I can do to slo it down....clean filiform with 1000grit wet sandpaper, cover with brush on clear coat. See rush job in post 630, will be cleaning it up better this Spring.
Actually it may work out, the filiform is high on the end caps and not visible from the ground. It will give me the opportunity to try things without worrying about how it looks, I'm sure it will take some trial and error to get it right.
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:06 PM   #638
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Just beginning

I have an 04 28' CCD International. Only very minor filiform corrosion so far on the skin and taillights. Door handle seems to have it more extensive. Unit is stored under a roof, but otherwise exposed, in CA central valley.
Tell me if I read this right: This corrosion happens under a coating, remove the coating and the problem is reduced to one of manually shining it up like the older units, i.e. either completely seal it from the atmosphere (under a clear coat to keep it shiny) or completely expose it, let the ALOxide form and remove it from time to time with a manual polish effort. I know, easier said than done, but that seems to be the only definitive solution. The Boeshield and ACF50 seem to stop the process temporarily, but leave the corrosion products under the clearcoat. Am I processing what I have read correctly?

Anyway, I came to this thread for a different corrosion problem. I noticed a twin perforation of the belly pan, centerline, just aft of the spare tire. Actually, first noticed a drip. Kind of bubbly like acid, but no reaction when tested with baking soda solution. Methinks it's a dissimilar metal problem, the white paint on the interior of the belly skin wore through + recent trip over the Sierra summit with snow, chains, road salts + trip back in torrential rain.
Opened up the pan to find minor moisture in the insulation and beginnings of other pitting corrosion where the paint has come off. Interesting to note, no corrosion on the uncoated, exposed, exterior side of the belly skin.
Is there a different thread for this?
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Old 03-02-2009, 06:37 PM   #639
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Am I processing what I have read correctly?
Yep...but I wouldn't polish the affected area.

Iv'e used 1000/ 2000 grit wet paper to remove the filiform, sanding with the "grain". Brush with clear and re-sand til smooth. Proceed gently..Trial and error first in an obscure area.
Iv'e also used Stainless paint with marginal results.

Also did the battery frames & door hinges with pretty good results, see previous posts.

Looks like the belly pan can be repaired. After insulation dries you could seal with Polyurethane, re-secure. Clean area well for good bonding. Then fabricate a right angle of aluminum to fit over front of the frame and belly pan. If the pan is holed, you can rivit a patch sealed with poly, use aluminum rivits.

Good Luck and welcome to the "club"

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Old 03-02-2009, 07:24 PM   #640
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Thanks for the reply.
My plan for the belly pan was to coat the crossmember in cold galvinze paint, then either tape sealant or rubber tape for a mechanical isolation, then steel rivets. (read in one reference that fasteners should be of the more noble metal). Clean, prime and epoxy the inside of the belly skin, patch holes with a riveted-on, non-painted patch, sealed around edges. Not shown well in pix but there is already an angle to flash off the front of the belly skin.
I am trying a rubberized undercoating product for the exposed steel. Factory paint has been no match under there for the rocks thrown up from the tow vehicle. Have done the stabilizers and spare tire carrier, will do the front face of the aforementioned xmember too.
Starting a 48hr work shift tomorrow, will be back at this on Thurs 3/5, weather permitting.
Thanks again, Bill
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:45 PM   #641
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Did this before I knew about the Forum.

FWIW
On our 63 Safari I repaired the belly pan TOO well. When I needed to get back into the plumbing it was next to impossible, did more damage than I repaired. You may need to get in there again sometime.

I also did a small panel repair with stainless and steel rivits. Corroded thru in 1 1/2 yrs.

I have used truck bed liner on the exposed parts of the Hensley Hitch with good results. There are a lot of good coating options out there, POR-15 and most epoxy paints will work well.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:49 PM   #642
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Electrical?

There have been only a couple of brief mentions in this thread concerning the possibility of electric or galvanic action being the culprit. I've owned several larger boats with shore power systems and a well-designed electrical bonding system along with well-maintained sacrificial anodes on the rudders, trim tabs, shafts, and electrical ground are a necessity to avoid such problems.

Since the corrosion is showing up underneath the clear coat with no apparent breach of the coat itself; is occuring on both sheet and cast aluminum, and Alcoa doesn't seem to think that their product is to blame, is there any possibility that either the design of the electrical system or contact between dissimilar metals in the newer units is causing this? Interestingly, along with zinc and magnesium, aluminum is commonly used for sacrificial anodes to protect more "noble" metals.

If it is some sort of galvanic corrosion, perhaps set up between the aluminum and steel parts of the trailer, treating the surface will do nothing to prevent it from continuing.
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Old 03-02-2009, 07:58 PM   #643
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This is an explanation of the type of panel corrosion we have been dealing with.

It's different that what you normally see on wheels, door hinges, battery frames, tail lights etc.


aluMATTER*|*Aluminium*|*Forms of Corrosion*|*Filliform Corrosion
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:51 PM   #644
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RC
Thanks for the additional tips
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