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Old 04-16-2007, 10:01 PM   #15
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Ok, so we have 4 possibly 5 so far. I know Dmac has the issue too, so we then have 5, possibly 6. Anyone else, please add your name to the list.
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:34 AM   #16
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Lewster, I'm not sure where these little tidbits come from but I seem to remember from my marine days that multiple smaller anodes will do a better job than one big one. Again this is coming from memory and mine is good...just short for the most part.
Twinkie, shutting off the electric will not stop galvanic corrosion. This is caused by dissimilar metal contact.
I like the idea of a couple of sacrificial anodes in out of the way spots.
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpi
I'll check mine and post the results. Off the top of my head, the corrossion issues I've seen are the license plate light (requires frequent waxing), the Safari emblems seem to need frequent applications of WD40 to slow corrosion, the top of the rear bumper displays some deterioration, the wheel well mouldings have some crazing or checking, the clearance light screws are rusty. I have not noticed the corrosion lines starting at the rivets or edges of the aluminum panels. My trailer has been parked outside for over two years about 14 miles from ocean. I have only used this trailer for 2 nights of on the beach camping. The only wax product I've used on it is Meguiar's Quick Detail (except for rubbing out scuff marks).

Speaking of anodes, etc. the trailer is powered off electrically when not in use.

If I start to see this issue on mine, my first thought will be to try some kind of penetrating oil such as the aerospace protectant or WD40 on the nearby rivet. Not to improve the damage but to attempt to stop the progress of the corrosion.
I have a 'fix' for your rusty marker lights, and it is NOT expensive either!!
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:25 AM   #18
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These posts pretty much describe the filiform corrosion on our 2002 CCD. Door handle and hinges.... light bezels, wheels, and spots of filiform around various rivits. I've tried ACF-50, which does slow the corrosion temporarily, and plan to try spot treatment with either clear nail polish or automotive clear coat, after thoroughly cleaning the areas before application.
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Old 04-17-2007, 08:28 AM   #19
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corrosion

Hey Eric,
throw my name in the hat, my tail light bezels look like they have been bolted on the side of an oil rig in the Gulf of Mexico, wheels look two toned, and the beltline looks like it has grey measles. hard to accept on a 3 year old unit, it actually started right after we picked it up in Yakima.So I guess it's Sierra Tango Bravo time eh?

Jack
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:35 AM   #20
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Corrosion

If you search the archives you will find my story of corrosion within a year of purchasing my then-new 2003 Safari. The factory replaced a number of items, including wheels and some skins. Trim items don't bother me, it's the skin that I am concerned about. Now I have significant filiform skin corrosion below my tail lights (either I didn't notice it before I had the work done by Airstream, or it is "new", I don't know which). So far the problem is cosmetic, and the trailer will probably functionally last a lifetime (stored indoors). But it is very bothersome to spend so much on a product and have it look so ugly!

I have a question... does anyone have a trailer that is 2-6 years old that does NOT have filiform corrosion of the skin itself? See my photo below for a filiform skin corrosion example...
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:08 AM   #21
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Eric.

I plan on taking some pictures of our 04 ccd:

The door grab handle (the thing just to the right of the door) and door hinges are deterirating. You can actually see the layer of clearcoat peeling off.

There are parts of the awning arm that are pitted out and white-ish. PArts that were anodized seem to be holding up, like the arms. Obviously, these are not made by AS, and could be an issue for Zip Dee to deal with.

Our tail-light housings, which I think are either chrome-platted plastic or polished alluminum show drastic pitting and are no longer shinny. This is also the case for the license plate light. The wheels seem to be holding up.

As far as the skin goes, that seems to be in OK shape except around a few exterior rivets. Interestingly, the couple of dings in the front that came with the AS when it brand new are holding up.

Here's some background:

Our AS is stored about 33 miles from any major city, so air pollution is not as big a factor. Our unit is outside, but under a giant awning. The storage facility does not go near my unit with salt. In fact I invite them to plow snow near our unit to create a protective baricade in mid-winter.

I know I'm bummed about this, too. Stainless steel is much more impervious to the elements, but then the weight of the AS would be completely unreasonable.

I'm wondering if sanding or trying to rid the units of this corrosion is the best thing, since the actual corosion of aluminum is a very thin coating of "ruby". If there is a metalurgist amongst us, maybe you could clarify.

Eric- I also PM'ed you a while back, but maybe you were totally wigged out about your AS to deal with anyone. Let me know if you got it. I sent it the same day the forums took on the name change, so anything could ahve happened.

Jonathan
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:25 AM   #22
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So, in less than 24 hours, we're up to 9 folks...... anyone else have corrosion issues?

You can see what it looks like here:

Airstream Issue
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:05 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
The door grab handle (the thing just to the right of the door) and door hinges are deterirating. You can actually see the layer of clearcoat peeling off.

Our tail-light housings, which I think are either chrome-platted plastic or polished alluminum show drastic pitting and are no longer shinny. This is also the case for the license plate light. The wheels seem to be holding up.

As far as the skin goes, that seems to be in OK shape except around a few exterior rivets.
while the skin (from alcoa) is clear coated...

the rivets, hinges, windows, grab handles and most other aluminum trim is NOT...

the classic style window frames do get a coating of the traditional plastic coat...

i think.

this plastic coat comes off easily with basic solvents. mine was gone during the first good detailing...

buck rivets are bare naked. they all are

on bare alum surfaces like the handles and window trim, abrasion or polish and alum polish/coating is a good choice.

the filiform corrosion may seem like a 'ruby coating' but the problem is, the leading edges...

which continue to migrate UNDER the good clearcoat....

like frosty white worms creeping along under the shine....

no doubt this can affect resale value...

and it ain't pretty.

cheers
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Old 04-17-2007, 02:37 PM   #24
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Looking at DMacs images, a fair amount of his corrosion is not at the edge or rivet. It's smack dab in the middle of the finished skin.
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Old 04-17-2007, 05:53 PM   #25
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I checked mine thoroughly today. There were 4- 1/4" to 1/3" spots of corrosion. Two originating from rivets, and two on panel seams, but I still suspect originated from the nearby rivets. Thanks for the heads up, knowing about the problem should help me control it.

I strongly suspect all the trailers are equally prone to this problem, why some are better than others are due to local environmental conditions. The rivet holes represent a breach in the clear plasticoat which may allow corrosion to start. Road dings are another mode of moisture entry.

Basically I think living in a relatively dry climate has spared me from major problems. While it isn't desert dry (15-20 inches rain during winter/spring and some fog), many days are dry in winter and nearly all days in the summer are dry.

One of my preventive measures may be to spray ACF50 along the rivet lines prior to Meguiars Quick Detail or waxing (unless anyone can tell me why this would be a bad idea).

On mine the rate of deterioration is slow enough and I think I can slow it further to not present much of a problem down the line. I'm more interested in the general presentability of the trailer, not minute flaws or details. I plan on keeping it 10-15 years. If it is a little weathered at the end of that time, at least it has company...so am I.
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Old 04-17-2007, 06:44 PM   #26
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Count me in

Our rear lights are REALLY bad. Looks like they'll soon be gone. Always stored under cover ( except when being used ) never near a salt source.
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Old 04-17-2007, 07:16 PM   #27
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There is some corrosion on the grab handle by the door, and a few very small spots, mainly on the edges of some panels of my 05. Not too unsightly... yet. It's been kept outside about 7 miles from the coast.
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Old 04-17-2007, 07:54 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tpi
One of my preventive measures may be to spray ACF50 along the rivet lines
prior to Meguiars Quick Detail or waxing (unless anyone can tell me why this would be a bad idea).
hi tpi...

haven't tried acf 50 yet, or 'corrosion x'

i do use boeshield t-9. really a good product read about it...

Rust Prevention Rust Protection Metal Penetrating Lubrication Anti Corrosives Multi Purpose Metal Protection BOESHIELD T-9

my understanding is the acf remains as a liquid and doesn't last long relative to t-9 or others that dry to a film.

the msds indicates acf is non toxic and basically a proprietary mix of petrol and syn distilates...

what effect it has on the silkaflex inside our shells is unclear.

as it penetrates the rivets, holes and seems...

here is a little light reading for ya....

http://dspace.dsto.defence.gov.au/ds...pounds+for.pdf

absolutely the best approach is to cover the rivet heads/ edges and seal out the air, salts and water that attack...

so adding the beltline and acryl-r IS an a more complete approach...

regardless of the cpc applied i'd wax the skin FIRST and then apply the corrosion protection by dabbing or blotting the specific spots...

in fact that is sequence i use now.

lewster...

my understanding is that sacrifical cathodes/anodes only work in marine environments or on submerged (soil or water) materials...

for example INSIDE a pipeline the effect is only regional like cell tower coverage....

but i don't believe copper bracelets work either...

cheers
2air'
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