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Old 04-17-2007, 09:25 AM   #1
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Profile:  2002 22' International CCD
San Luis Obispo , California
Posts: 265

These posts pretty much describe the filiform corrosion on our 2002 CCD. Door handle and hinges.... light bezels, wheels, and spots of filiform around various rivits. I've tried ACF-50, which does slow the corrosion temporarily, and plan to try spot treatment with either clear nail polish or automotive clear coat, after thoroughly cleaning the areas before application.
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:28 AM   #2
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Profile:  2003 25' Safari
spokane , Washington
Posts: 98
Images: 5

corrosion

Hey Eric,
throw my name in the hat, my tail light bezels look like they have been bolted on the side of an oil rig in the Gulf of Mexico, wheels look two toned, and the beltline looks like it has grey measles. hard to accept on a 3 year old unit, it actually started right after we picked it up in Yakima.So I guess it's Sierra Tango Bravo time eh?

Jack
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:08 AM   #3
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Profile:  2004 19' International CCD
Chicago , Illinois
Posts: 783
Images: 10

Eric.

I plan on taking some pictures of our 04 ccd:

The door grab handle (the thing just to the right of the door) and door hinges are deterirating. You can actually see the layer of clearcoat peeling off.

There are parts of the awning arm that are pitted out and white-ish. PArts that were anodized seem to be holding up, like the arms. Obviously, these are not made by AS, and could be an issue for Zip Dee to deal with.

Our tail-light housings, which I think are either chrome-platted plastic or polished alluminum show drastic pitting and are no longer shinny. This is also the case for the license plate light. The wheels seem to be holding up.

As far as the skin goes, that seems to be in OK shape except around a few exterior rivets. Interestingly, the couple of dings in the front that came with the AS when it brand new are holding up.

Here's some background:

Our AS is stored about 33 miles from any major city, so air pollution is not as big a factor. Our unit is outside, but under a giant awning. The storage facility does not go near my unit with salt. In fact I invite them to plow snow near our unit to create a protective baricade in mid-winter.

I know I'm bummed about this, too. Stainless steel is much more impervious to the elements, but then the weight of the AS would be completely unreasonable.

I'm wondering if sanding or trying to rid the units of this corrosion is the best thing, since the actual corosion of aluminum is a very thin coating of "ruby". If there is a metalurgist amongst us, maybe you could clarify.

Eric- I also PM'ed you a while back, but maybe you were totally wigged out about your AS to deal with anyone. Let me know if you got it. I sent it the same day the forums took on the name change, so anything could ahve happened.

Jonathan
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Old 04-17-2007, 11:25 AM   #4
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Profile:  2004 25' Safari
Frozen Tundra , Illinois
Posts: 10,109

So, in less than 24 hours, we're up to 9 folks...... anyone else have corrosion issues?

You can see what it looks like here:

Airstream Issue
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Old 04-17-2007, 12:05 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazylev
The door grab handle (the thing just to the right of the door) and door hinges are deterirating. You can actually see the layer of clearcoat peeling off.

Our tail-light housings, which I think are either chrome-platted plastic or polished alluminum show drastic pitting and are no longer shinny. This is also the case for the license plate light. The wheels seem to be holding up.

As far as the skin goes, that seems to be in OK shape except around a few exterior rivets.
while the skin (from alcoa) is clear coated...

the rivets, hinges, windows, grab handles and most other aluminum trim is NOT...

the classic style window frames do get a coating of the traditional plastic coat...

i think.

this plastic coat comes off easily with basic solvents. mine was gone during the first good detailing...

buck rivets are bare naked. they all are

on bare alum surfaces like the handles and window trim, abrasion or polish and alum polish/coating is a good choice.

the filiform corrosion may seem like a 'ruby coating' but the problem is, the leading edges...

which continue to migrate UNDER the good clearcoat....

like frosty white worms creeping along under the shine....

no doubt this can affect resale value...

and it ain't pretty.

cheers
2air'
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Old 04-17-2007, 09:53 PM   #6
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Profile:  2006 25' Safari FB SE
Huntington Beach , California
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Yep..we got it

Although I wish I didn't have it, it seems to be a problem with more than just a few of us. My tailights were replaced within the first six months and my grab handle next to the entry door is past saving. I also have numerous incursions of the same malady along the beltlines as well as the window trim.
As for my wheels, I wondered what that stuff was after looking close during a wash job.

My unit just had its first birthday. Add my name to the list. I will certainly try to get this solved or at least noted on my sixth warranty excursion to the dealer/service center. I love our Airstream, but I am not impressed with the quality control from the factory.

John
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Old 04-17-2007, 10:03 PM   #7
tn2
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Profile:  1978 Argosy 27
Camden , Tennessee
Posts: 150
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Corrosion

Just a thought....
You see this kind of corrosion in boats. They do use an anode metal but sometimes even that does not seem to prevent it.....in those cases it often is strongly believed to be an improperly grounded electrical system....and that is most often caused by persons adding things to the electrical system....such as radios....that are not grounded properly. It can get so bad that alert bullitins have been issued alerting swimmer that they could be electrocuted by swimming close to an improperly grounded boat.
Just a thought.
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Old 05-10-2007, 03:55 AM   #8
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Profile:  2005 25' Safari
Hillsboro , Texas
Posts: 627

Corrosion

My 2003 has those white lines around almost every marker light and many areas near factory attached fixtures, ie: the exterior A/C power outlet, the telephone/cable tv interface etc. It looks like some kind of tool or scribe was used during manufacture to 'work' the silkaflex (sp?). But I also have a spot about the size of a quarter on the street side skin that has become bare. The same clear finger nail polish soluton was given me by Aistream. Doesn't sound like world-class quality to me.
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Old 05-11-2007, 12:08 PM   #9
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Profile:  2004 19' International CCD
Chicago , Illinois
Posts: 783
Images: 10

I called Paul Sherry, my dealer yesterday, and they were unaware of this problem. They did confirm that the rusting license plate light housing has always been a problem though.

I was directed to contacting AS directly.

Jonathan
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:03 PM   #10
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Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
St. Hedwig , Texas
Posts: 205

This is an eye awakening subject for me as I was thinking of selling my 77 Argosy and getting a 2001-2005 Airstream. In my opinion, the only thing that will stop the corrission is Corroson X. This process is used on aircraft and is approved by the FAA. It does stop corroson.

My wife and I were really looking forward to getting a newer Airstream but I am very concerned at this point.
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Old 05-22-2007, 07:27 PM   #11
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Profile:  1977 31' Sovereign
Riverhead , New York
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If I had a newer unit with this problem, I wouldn't be thinking about how I can address this issue I would get a class action suit going.

Each and everyone should write a letter to AS detailing their problems, I can see the lawyer asking the employees at AS did you ever or how many complaints did you recieve and how did you address them.

Someone should have a chat about this with a lawyer.
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Old 05-22-2007, 10:37 PM   #12
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Profile:  2007 25' Safari FB SE
St. Hedwig , Texas
Posts: 205

For the corrision issue I would consider Corrosion X which is used on aircraft. It will stop corrison.

Now the corrison issue does cause me great concern because I have been thinking of upgrading to a late model Airstream. Currently I have a very nice 77 Argosy. Considering the price of Airstreams there should not be any issues. I don't know about trailers but when I look foran aircraft and I find a lot of corrision I just walk away.
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Old 05-23-2007, 09:32 AM   #13
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Profile:  1968 26' Overlander
2008 27' Safari FB SE
CHICAGO , Illinois
Posts: 48

Exclamation I agree with most of Bob's direction - lets raise a ruckus!

"If I had a newer unit with this problem, I wouldn't be thinking about how I can address this issue I would get a class action suit going.

Each and everyone should write a letter to AS detailing their problems, I can see the lawyer asking the employees at AS did you ever or how many complaints did you recieve and how did you address them."

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I agree that a class action will result in a lot of paperwork, legal fees, and a small bottle of nail polish. However, the concept of every single new trailer owner sending a letter (not an email) with enclosed polaroids highlighting both the corrosion and leak issues (they both stem from poor QC and assembly procedures) might just wake up someone at AS to fire the line manager in charge of QC and implement some real changes.

I know the on-line cynics will poo poo this idea as a waste of time and the technical folks will keep suggesting different repair goop you can buy to self-mend but we are talking $40k+ recent purchases based on $$ efforts by industry giant Thor to market these trailers as the "rolls royce" of the RV world. I say again - Wally would not be happy with the poor quality rolling off his line.

Multiple trips to the dealership shortly after purchase and having to camp out in the parking lot to run a full systems test and personal QC (in lieu of this happening at the factory) when making such a large purchase is absolutely stupid and a waste of mosts valuable time. If you had to go through this process when buying even a $10k Kia, they would not sell a single car.

My AS dealership sales guy is a nice enough kid and the dealership is clean and well run - I do not however want to spend the rest of my life camped out in their lot waiting on repairs that should never have left the factory.

Lets pick a point of contact at both AS and parent Thor and get their names, title, and mailing addressses posted. Once that is accomplished, lets all agree to send a polite but firm letter with polaroids of every corrosion and leak issue along with copies of leak etc repair bills. We should also agree on the exact text of the cover letter subject line for consistency.

It is amazing what can be accomplished if you raise a ruckus! I have not even taken delivery of my new trailer but I am expecting these problems and will write my letter in advance.

In the City of Chicago if you want something fixed you have to document the problem and send it to your local alderman and the mayor's office. You then make a follow up call to both offices and watch the sparks fly. We all assume the Mayor is aware of neighborhood problems etc until you mail him pictures and then you realize he was not being kept informed from below (hmmm could it be CYA and job protection driven???).

Lets do the same here!
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Old 05-23-2007, 10:19 AM   #14
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Profile:  2007 23' Safari SE
Viera , Florida
Posts: 838

Quote:
Originally Posted by Valhalla2Go[b
Lets pick a point of contact at both AS and parent Thor and get their names, title, and mailing addressses posted. Once that is accomplished, lets all agree to send a polite but firm letter with polaroids of every corrosion and leak issue along with copies of leak etc repair bills. We should also agree on the exact text of the cover letter subject line for consistency.[/b]
That point of contact needs to be in the Quality Control department, Production, or Corporate Management. The service and tech support people are good guys, very helpful, and are working hard to fix the problems.

Randy
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