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Old 07-03-2016, 07:20 PM   #2353
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The big question is we just took delivery 1 July. I don't think there should be any form fill on a brand new trailer. The door handle is also bad. I will discuss with Bay Area Airstream after the holiday.




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Originally Posted by RareStream View Post
The only way to be rid of this problem for good is to take them off, chemically strip them (that cheap clearcoat will flake right off) and polish them with aluminum polish.

Then, leave them uncoated. Do not clearcoat them. If you do, the corrosion will return.

If your corrosion on the aluminum isn't bad or deep consider yourself extremely lucky. Otherwise, you have to sand the corrosion off and it can be very difficult, deep, and stubborn.

It's best to catch this problem now. Much less work down the road.

Once they are polished, in the event they start to slightly tarnish (which will not be filiform or deep corrosion) you just have to wipe them with some more aluminum polish and it literally takes about 2 minutes a side. Then they look new again. Simple.

Here, read this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...-a-105590.html

Good luck, but really this is the only way to fix them and not have to worry about it happening again.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #2354
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Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
Here's my input:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142/corrosion-problems-with-new-airstreams-31743-136.html#post1450224
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:43 PM   #2355
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Thanks Howard L....That's exactly what I thought would be my aporoach but hearing domeone else having success with it helps grestly....I truly appreciate it.
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:21 AM   #2356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
Remove clear coat....

Had to do the same on our Classic battery door frames...wet sand 800 to 1500, then seal it it once a year.



Bob
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:09 PM   #2357
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Who out there has a newer Airstream (say from 2001 through the current model year) that has the dreaded white spider veins AKA: form fill corrosion?

I know that Dmac had this and I do recall others saying they their shells had issues. I'm wondering now how widespread this issue may be. IMHO, this issue started on my trailer back in spring of 2005. The factory replaced all 4 of my rims and both cast alum tail lights. Not only has the corrosion come back on all 4 rims and both cast alum tail lights, but it now appears to be all over the body on both the exterior alum skins and the outside door trims.

A conversation with support in Jackson Center suggested that I lightly sand down the spots and apply clear fingernail polish to it. Do you know how bad my Safari would look after that given all the locations where this is??!!?? Asked what they felt was causing this because others also have seen this and I got no response.

You can view pictures here:

Airstream Issue

If there are a number of us out there, perhaps it's time we grouped together. I can't believe a $50k RV (and in some cases, a heck of a lot more) is doing this at only 1.5 years old and is 10x worse now a 3.5 years old. Anyone know how to start a class action if there are enough of us??

South Texas here. I have a 2004 classic and has filliform plus the rims and door trim. It does effect the skin.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:13 PM   #2358
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Remove clear coat....



Had to do the same on our Classic battery door frames...wet sand 800 to 1500, then seal it it once a year.







Bob


I used aircraft paint remover and it was a breeze removing the clear coat. Use the dremel brush to remove the corrosion and put clear coat on it.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:51 AM   #2359
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Can someone more savvy than me,open a new filoform class-action suit discussion to see if we have enough interest for a suit?
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:00 PM   #2360
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I would not be surprised if they are fully aware of the problem and hoping nobody would bring a class action lawsuit suit against them.
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:02 PM   #2361
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I used aircraft paint remover and it was a breeze removing the clear coat. Use the dremel brush to remove the corrosion and put clear coat on it.

Don't apply clear coat again. Just use a good polish. My tail lights, door hinges are polished aluminum. I suspect the battery boxes.
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Old 11-09-2016, 04:42 AM   #2362
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I would not be surprised if they are fully aware of the problem and hoping nobody would bring a class action lawsuit suit against them.
i suggest reading the whole thread here, and then posting.
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Old 11-09-2016, 06:39 AM   #2363
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I read of this white spider vein AKA form fill corrosion issue immediately after taking possession of my brand new shining 2016 Classic. Dealer never mentioned the potential future issue. This said, I read numerous posts about the advisability of regularly apply Corrosion-X to the rig's seams, exposed rivet head and other non clear coated metal. I have started this process and plan to continue this preventative course of action. Hopefully the Corrosion-X, the fact that I will not be traveling regularly in salt treated road AND A LITTLE LUCK will serve me well.

Dennis
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Old 11-09-2016, 09:11 PM   #2364
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So the questions that begs to be asked is. What type of anode? How is it connected and how many?
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:21 AM   #2365
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I also have this issue going on with my 09'. I have been told the aluminum impregnated with some sort of clear coat. I was told these newer airstream's cannot be polished to a mirror shine like the older models. is this true? If I could simply sand down or strip the coating then I wouldn't have to worry about this filiform happening. I don't care if it takes a ton of time to do it. Its just a matter of can this coating be stripped off?
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Old 04-26-2017, 10:46 AM   #2366
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It's not an impregnated clear coat, it's simply a coating applied to the surface of the aluminum sheets. When the sheets are cut, or drilled, it exposes the underlying sheet to corrosion risk. This is true even if the sheets are Alclad (pure aluminum electronically applied to the underlying sheet.)

Aircraft manufacturers address this by painting the completed airplanes. We have to do it by use of Corrosion-X or ACF-50. It's just a fact of life.

But to answer your question directly, yes, the clearcoat can be removed. but be prepared to keep your TT polished and still use an anti-corrosion application. I can't tell you how many airplanes I've seen parked in the back of hangars that weren't washed or kept clean that were surface corroded where unpainted, and painted airplanes that were corroding from the inside where no chromate had been applied.

Spray every rivet head and every cut line, and leave the clear coat alone--that's my suggestion--and do it at least annually (more frequently if your trailer is stored outside or you're a full-timer).
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