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01-14-2022, 07:29 PM
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#2441
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1 Rivet Member
1975 27' Overlander
San diego
, California
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 18
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How do you treat or remove the filaform? Before adding corrosion x, how much elbow grease should we do to remove the existing corrosion?
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01-15-2022, 04:50 PM
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#2442
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,694
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Over the eons this thread has been live, every question has been answered, often many times. I wouldn't want to read through thousands of posts either, but the answers are there.
__________________
Gene
The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
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01-16-2022, 07:56 AM
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#2443
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Rivet Master
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio
, Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 681
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChelleZ
How do you treat or remove the filaform? Before adding corrosion x, how much elbow grease should we do to remove the existing corrosion? ��
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For removing the filiform, remember if you have a later model AS, the metal is not Alclad AL, it is an alloy. (AS models after sometime in the 80s). The removal of Alcoa's surface coating will leave a gray AL, not the shiny silver look. I see you have a 75 model and should be ok lightly buffing the filiform away. Like Gene posted here, if you take the time to go back through these posts, everything you ever wanted to know is here.
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03-25-2022, 07:14 PM
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#2444
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New Member
2018 22' Sport
Camp Connell
, California
Join Date: Mar 2022
Posts: 1
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We have a 2018 22FB that has filiform corrosion issues also. Does anyone have a good way to treat it?
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03-26-2022, 02:49 PM
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#2445
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Master of Universe
2008 25' Safari FB SE
Grand Junction
, Colorado
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 12,694
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Diegoli
We have a 2018 22FB that has filiform corrosion issues also. Does anyone have a good way to treat it?
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You have some reading to do. The best way to deal with it has been posted by Robert Cross. Use the search engine to find his posts—they were a long time ago.
After many years of complaints about this, the company has failed to solve it and I think that means they don't care.
__________________
Gene
The Airstream is sold; a 2016 Nash 24M replaced it.
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03-27-2022, 05:29 AM
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#2446
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2020 Globetrotter 25 FBT
2020 25' Globetrotter
Wildwood
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 2,577
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They must have done something, as I’m seeing far fewer posts about it. Our 04 had it bad. Our 2011 never got it. On our 2011 AS put the wrong bases on all the running lights. (The curved bases on flat surfaces) How did QC miss that? AS guys came to Missouri from the main office and swapped them all out. The sharp points of the curved bases were starting to form corrosion, the new larger base covered it all up. In eight years it never showed up again.
__________________
2020 25GT FBT
2012 Toyota Tundra Dbl Cab, 5.7 4x4
Previous AS trailers: (04) 19’ Bambi, and (11) FC 23FB
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08-14-2022, 09:37 PM
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#2447
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3 Rivet Member
2005 25' Safari
Boston
, Ma
Join Date: Mar 2021
Posts: 141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS
I can only guess how many others have this problem and how many different solutions there must be out there.
This is how we decided to address it.
I didn't want to do any damage to the panel coating so trying to buff out just the hinges didn't seem like the way to go. Plus the Dremmel tool just wasn't cutting it. Decided that the old brush-on Rustoleum method would be worth a try.
Getting off the old clear-coat, paint remover? What to use? After much experimentation decided on Mostenbocker's Lift off 4 water-based Paint Remover. After masking, brush on, let set, scrape off with razor blade scraper. It did scratch the hinges. Starting with 400 wet sandpaper,then 600 and finally 1500, scratches gone. Brush-on four coats zinc-chromate primer, sanding each with 1500, using plenty of water.
Spend the bucks, go to art supply house and get several 1/2" artists brush's.
Another four coats of Rustoleum aluminum paint, again sanding each with
1500. Seal with Griot's Paint Sealer, and this is what you get.
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Well I’ll be doing this I guess
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08-15-2022, 06:22 AM
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#2448
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2 Rivet Member
2007 20' Safari
San Diego
, California
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 28
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My solution to Filiform Corrosion as well as the glued in bulkheads - I sold it!
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08-16-2022, 07:38 AM
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#2449
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3 Rivet Member
1972 25' Tradewind
fort lauderdale
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 205
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Clear coat
[QUOTE=ROBERT CROSS;1835011]Remove clear coat....
Had to do the same on our Classic battery door frames...wet sand 800 to 1500, then seal it it once a year.
Robert,
What product are you using to "seal" the aluminum after wet
thank you
ERic
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04-17-2023, 07:08 PM
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#2450
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Rivet Master
2017 30' Classic
Anna Maria
, Florida
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dmac
If you search the archives you will find my story of corrosion within a year of purchasing my then-new 2003 Safari. The factory replaced a number of items, including wheels and some skins. Trim items don't bother me, it's the skin that I am concerned about. Now I have significant filiform skin corrosion below my tail lights (either I didn't notice it before I had the work done by Airstream, or it is "new", I don't know which). So far the problem is cosmetic, and the trailer will probably functionally last a lifetime (stored indoors). But it is very bothersome to spend so much on a product and have it look so ugly!
I have a question... does anyone have a trailer that is 2-6 years old that does NOT have filiform corrosion of the skin itself? See my photo below for a filiform skin corrosion example...
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I have a 2017 30' Classic that sits 6 months every year two blocks from a beach in Florida. Wash and wax regularly. The only areas I have noticed minor filiform is some of the marker lights. Other than that nothing.I need to add that it never seen snow nor has it ever needed winterizing and is plugged into shore power full time while parked on the driveway.
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