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Old 12-08-2015, 01:39 PM   #2297
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I am beginning to think my theory has some merit. The FaN has never lived indoors and is parked in one of the wettest climates imaginable. I have not noticed any filiform - except for a little bit around the tail-light housing. I'll just get those housings chromed someday.....way down the line.

My theory: It is the dry airborne particulates that are allowed to settle for any length of time that cause filiform. Here on the wet coast, it is washed off before any damage occurs. BTW, I did not even Walbenize last year, so did a really close inspection in September. Still looks fine to me. I counted my blessings (or thanked the rain Gods as the case may be) finally did that Walbernization, and guess what? It's raining today - heavy. We may not see the sun until April or May.

The dealership also checked the seals a few weeks ago and got an A+ report on that too. Maybe a wet vs. dry climate is better for those seals too?
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Old 12-09-2015, 09:49 AM   #2298
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I continue to work my filiform battle plan at 4 month intervals. Since we've only had it 9 months so far, it's too soon to tell. We did have issues with marker lights which I was able to fix and add Classic Casting rings and seal them up hiding filiform beneath. If we could only view filiform as a beautiful thing, like patina on copper, no one would ever worry about it again !
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:41 AM   #2299
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Originally Posted by Bob662 View Post
Doug makes a really good point. Seems the solution is to spray Boeshield T-9 or its equivalent on every cut edge, and probably all the rivets, as soon as the trailer is delivered. No small trick, but perhaps worth it. Corrosion X is easier to apply, but won't be as enduring.
Treating the new trailer is the ticket Bob. I wonder about spraying Bioshield on the skin though. I've only used that on the wheel rims/underbelly and it works well there. Not sure of the waxie stuff on the skin though--maybe someone who has sprayed the skin with T-9 could comment. I do know the clearcoat felt pen or an small artist brush using any clearcoat or Nyalic, will seal the raw edges. Hoping corrosion X will soak in behind the rivets is probably best you can do there.
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:10 PM   #2300
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I removed a couple of dime size filiform spots yesterday and then covered the area with silver paint followed by a reseal with Nyalic. This time I took some photos for anyone interested in a work guide to use for the removal of corrosion spots and then painting the area to bring the Alcoa baked-on look back. Once again the paint used is: Spray can, Rust-Oleum METALLIC, Brilliant Metal Finish, (7271 Silver Metallic bar code) available at Home Depot. A top coat of Nyalic spray finishes the job.

I remove the Corrosion with a small buffing wheel for a Dremel tool. Then lightly sand with 600 black paper a area away from the spots. Sand the Alcoa clear coat just ever so lightly so as to give the paint a grit to attach to. Using poster board or a like stiff paper, cut areas out that are slightly lager than the area to be covered. Shim behind the poster board to cause the paper to stand off the surface 1/8 to 1/4 inch. This will allow your paint spray to feather out under the openings for a soft edge. Spray with the Silver Metallic. Once dry remove the poster board and once again very lightly sand the overspray to gain a smooth surface. Clean the surface and spray the Nyalic or Clear coat of your choice.

This process works quite good on an edge where taping off adjacent areas is easy. This is where most filiform outbreaks form--on a top or underneath panel edge. To use this process in the middle of a panel is a bit more work but turns out OK also.

The result will look much better than the filiform if it is of any size (I would not mess with small stuff). In certain light, the repair will completely disappear. In other reflective lighting, it shows. I see where my repairs are, but I have yet to have anyone else see or comment on the areas. So to me it is worth the work. If you have not shot spray cans before, practice first. In general, shoot a light pepper coat and let it get tacky. Then spray a little more--let it get tacky again. Finally you will be able to spray a light final coat that will look wet and shine--thats where you stop while you are ahead. The Nyalic is very thin and will run easily if you don't use the "tack coat" method.

Good Luck
Howard
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Old 12-22-2015, 06:37 PM   #2301
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Looks good. Thanks for sharing.


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Old 12-22-2015, 08:13 PM   #2302
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Those are good pictures. Thank you for posting them.

It looks like the filiform was on the underside panel (edge covered by outer riveted panels). Did you notice if there was a crack on the organic coating or did the filiform appear to originate from the edge covered by the upper riveted panel?
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Old 12-22-2015, 11:48 PM   #2303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
I removed a couple of dime size filiform spots yesterday and then covered the area with silver paint followed by a reseal with Nyalic. This time I took some photos for anyone interested in a work guide to use for the removal of corrosion spots and then painting the area to bring the Alcoa baked-on look back. Once again the paint used is: Spray can, Rust-Oleum METALLIC, Brilliant Metal Finish, (7271 Silver Metallic bar code) available at Home Depot. A top coat of Nyalic spray finishes the job.

I remove the Corrosion with a small buffing wheel for a Dremel tool. Then lightly sand with 600 black paper a area away from the spots. Sand the Alcoa clear coat just ever so lightly so as to give the paint a grit to attach to. Using poster board or a like stiff paper, cut areas out that are slightly lager than the area to be covered. Shim behind the poster board to cause the paper to stand off the surface 1/8 to 1/4 inch. This will allow your paint spray to feather out under the openings for a soft edge. Spray with the Silver Metallic. Once dry remove the poster board and once again very lightly sand the overspray to gain a smooth surface. Clean the surface and spray the Nyalic or Clear coat of your choice.

This process works quite good on an edge where taping off adjacent areas is easy. This is where most filiform outbreaks form--on a top or underneath panel edge. To use this process in the middle of a panel is a bit more work but turns out OK also.

The result will look much better than the filiform if it is of any size (I would not mess with small stuff). In certain light, the repair will completely disappear. In other reflective lighting, it shows. I see where my repairs are, but I have yet to have anyone else see or comment on the areas. So to me it is worth the work. If you have not shot spray cans before, practice first. In general, shoot a light pepper coat and let it get tacky. Then spray a little more--let it get tacky again. Finally you will be able to spray a light final coat that will look wet and shine--thats where you stop while you are ahead. The Nyalic is very thin and will run easily if you don't use the "tack coat" method.

Good Luck
Howard
This is excellent!

Thank you for the images and explanation.

-evan
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Old 12-23-2015, 07:56 AM   #2304
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Filiform

My original replies to this thread was not to seek repair of Filiform damage,but to get to the source - manufacturing failure of process.Jackson Center people deny that the problem is with the aluminum coating.They state that they have advance-tested the coatings to a twenty year simulated wear.My '07 showed Filiform within the first three years,and I was told it was caused by my environment.Corporate BS.I've seen older '80's units on beachside use and the old clear coat had turned foggy,but not corroded.Airsteam needed to step-up on this problem.Evidently newer ones are still susceptible to this as well as our models.This problem was a cost-cutter boondoggle,that is not going to go away.My A/S is going to look like it has measles,by the time it turns 10 yrs.Not much glory for such an 'Icon' of trailers.I'm not hating,I just expect my investment to remain pleasant to look at,as you would expect a 8yr old equivalent ( think Mercedes) to look.
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:01 AM   #2305
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Originally Posted by TheCabin View Post
Those are good pictures. Thank you for posting them.

It looks like the filiform was on the underside panel (edge covered by outer riveted panels). Did you notice if there was a crack on the organic coating or did the filiform appear to originate from the edge covered by the upper riveted panel?
This is the 2nd area on the trailer that had filiform coming from a underside panel. Not sure if it started at the rivet and worked out from under, or what. I do know my several problem areas started from a windy beach camping trip when the 30 FC was brand new. After a week, the trailer was covered with the slime of salt moistened air. Washed the trailer once home, but spots started on some edges and rivets anyway. This was before I knew about Corrosion X and also before I re-clear coated (sealed ) the raw aluminum sheet edges.
The only filiform that has popped up since using C X and sealing edges are the couple of areas like this that have come from underneath. Reason? My guess, a little salt residue that did not wash away. No noticeable clear coat adage so, I just can't tell for sure.
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Old 12-23-2015, 08:14 AM   #2306
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Howard,

Nice job, I may try your approach!

I have tried something similar, but my results didn't blend in as well as yours did. Partly , I found that the silver paint I used was not the best match, I should try others.

I also carefully brushed the paint on which might not have given as good a result as a spray. I do have a couple of airbrushes, and maybe will try using one of them next time.

When you say that you used a buffing wheel on the dremel tool, was that a hard felt wheel?

Did you use the wet & dry paper just by holding a small piece folded in your hand, or maybe gluing a small piece of it onto a piece of wood?

Brian.
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Old 12-23-2015, 09:29 AM   #2307
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No problems here in Montana, very dry climate, no salty beaches , just stay off the roads in the winter because they are sprayed down with liquid salt...
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Old 12-23-2015, 10:53 PM   #2308
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Howard,

Nice job, I may try your approach!

I have tried something similar, but my results didn't blend in as well as yours did. Partly , I found that the silver paint I used was not the best match, I should try others.

I also carefully brushed the paint on which might not have given as good a result as a spray. I do have a couple of airbrushes, and maybe will try using one of them next time.

When you say that you used a buffing wheel on the dremel tool, was that a hard felt wheel?

Did you use the wet & dry paper just by holding a small piece folded in your hand, or maybe gluing a small piece of it onto a piece of wood?

Brian.
Can't find my pix of the buffing wheels, but they are about 1 1/2 inch in dia and come in a two pack-- one black fiber and one tan. The tan is fine fiber, the black a little more course. The are small enough to do a small area and leave the skin smooth and shiny. Sand paper: 600 or 800 grit just held in hand. You are just roughing the Alcoa coat around the repair a little, then (second pass) removing the sandy feeling overspray of the silver paint before re-clear coating. Re-clear coating will hide all sand marks and bring everything back to a shine.

Here is the spray paint--if it will post from iPad (it says it's attached, but I don't see it here)
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Old 12-24-2015, 05:12 AM   #2309
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The image shows when I touch the icon. It's a can of Rustoleum.


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Old 12-24-2015, 07:49 AM   #2310
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I also had bad filiform around the whole belt line. Some spots it was almost an inch high.
Rather than try to touch up all of it, I painted the whole thing. I used hammer tone spray paint to hide some of the deeper corrosion. The first go looked pretty good but I then decided to get a plastic pin stripe kit to finish it off. Click image for larger version

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