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Old 08-28-2014, 01:32 PM   #2115
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I used the 3 step Nyalic prep suggested by Nyalic. Since Dupont Prep-Sol isn't sold the the public, I used Dupli-Color Prep-Spray from AutoZone.

I coated my door light hood, tail light castings, bumper and door hinges. It tended to run on the vertical surface of the tail light castings. I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner an tried a couple more times....still runny. Oh well...at least it is protected.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:06 PM   #2116
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Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
I read this thread with interest. I wish Airstream would focus on building the best aluminum shell travel trailer possible. They are unique, an American icon, light weight, and beautifully finished inside. Most folks know them as long lasting trailers. Airstream designers are very good at luxury small space living. I agree with others that Airstream should have discovered this filliform corrosion problem during their pre-production testing. Further, they should have made a corrective action as soon as complaints from customers started coming in.

So Forum members have developed and shared filliform mitigation techniques that keep it in abeyance. And I have also read mitigation techniques against leaks and floor rot. OSB floors anyone? I submit metal frames should not crack or rust in this day and age. Why not use the best tail light housings and marker lights possible? I submit Airstream can improve the trailer so these problems are mostly eliminated.

Airstream should build a top line travel trailer that lasts 50 years. If the pricing of Airstreams was 10% higher, would customers not buy? We willingly pay a huge premium over SOBs to get Airstream "Cadillac" quality. Or is it "Bentley" quality. A 10% adder to materials and workmanship to elevate Airstream out of these complaints would be worth it in my opinion. Back up your progress with the best warranty in the industry.

You probably have heard about Yetti coolers. Here is a "bear proof" ice chest that cost nearly $300 for the small size. It will keep your beverage cool for a long time. It typifies a very high end product. Airstream should have that mindset in my view.

My 86 doesn't have filliform corrosion, but it doesn't have clear coat anymore either. It does have beautiful hickory cabinets that have stood up well through the years. And the drawers don't come open while towing. Those cabinets are what sold the trailer. Premium quality.

"We won't make changes, only improvements" says Wally Byum way back when. Good advice today.

David
Very well said. I agree completely. Hope Airstream is listening to this thread.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:32 PM   #2117
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
I used the 3 step Nyalic prep suggested by Nyalic. Since Dupont Prep-Sol isn't sold the the public, I used Dupli-Color Prep-Spray from AutoZone.

I coated my door light hood, tail light castings, bumper and door hinges. It tended to run on the vertical surface of the tail light castings. I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner an tried a couple more times....still runny. Oh well...at least it is protected.

Sounds like you've been busy. Vertical is tough. Very thin and runny, as I guess you know. If you try again, you can sand the runs away once it cures--a month. Then use the old auto spray technique and shoot a very light "tack" coat. Make it very light, just a mist. Let dry till tacky and then do another, still light. The 3rd pass stay light, but you should be able to spray it on enough to get the liquid smooth shine you want. Secret is to let the tack coats get tacky so they hold the last coat in place.

Remember, this stuff is great against UV, salt, most everything in the environment. However, it's not very tough against some solvents like lacquer thinner, acetone, and even alcohol. So if you later use AcrylR or ParBond to re-caulk seams next to the Nyalic, you will probably mess it up as you use alcohol to clean up the caulk smears. If that ever happens, just smooth it out with sandpaper and re-spray. Company says alcohol should not bother it once it fully cures. Not so sure about that. Just keep it away if you can.


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Old 08-30-2014, 05:22 PM   #2118
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After post-warranty courtesy repair of the filliform corrosion around the lights on my 2011 FC223FB, I became diligent about using Corrosion X on the Airstream. To my dismay, after four months of open storage in FL this year while we were aboard our sailboat, I noticed early filliform on my aftermarket aluminum wheels! (I had replaced the OEM 14" wheels and GYM's with 15" wheels and Michelin LT's at 25,000 miles). I then began doing a wipe of the aluminum wheels with Corrosion X and it appears to have stopped the corrosion in it's tracks. Online research revealed that filliform corrosion of clear coated aluminum wheels is not uncommon. I should have used the Corrosion X on the wheels from new, especially when I was following the sage advice in the SW FL yachting community and using Corrosion X on my sailboat hardware and electronics. Great product - I only wish it could work on my right knee
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:38 PM   #2119
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AS Quality & Choices

Dennis, Good choice in the Leisure Van. That would also be my choice if we were to change to that class of RV. The Airstream suits our preferences at this time, though, as we like to camp remotely, unhitch and go adventuring with our Jeep GC. In 36,200 miles of travel with our 2011 FC23FB, I just haven't seen another travel trailer that really tempts me.

As to Airstream quality (which is really another topic thread) - I agree that it doesn't match the reputation. My standards are higher than accepting the corrosion issues which Airstream has not properly addressed in manufacturing. I won't defend Thor, they are just making a profit on this line like any other company does on their higher perceived value products. Nevertheless, I'll wipe with Corrosion X, do my maintenance, and accept the compliments that are quite common wherever we travel.

I haven't drunk the purple cool aid and joined any cults.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Denis4x4 View Post
I suspect that Airstream is considered a "halo brand" by Thor and after looking at an $80,000 AS, customers start looking at other Thor products in the under $40,000 category. And, I suspect that those Thor TT's actually contribute more to the bottom line than an AS. I've already passed on buying another AS product (bought a Leisure Van instead of an Interstate) and just smile when friends oh and ah over my 25 FB Safari guest accommodations. In my opinion AS ownership is almost a cult and I find it difficult to defend a manufacturer that knowingly sells a product that doesn't meet my standards of perceived value.


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:28 PM   #2120
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I thank r carl for his very interesting post on the changes to Airstream aluminum sheet through the years (post #2060). There is a relevant article in Airstream Life, Spring of 07 that further describes the Alcoa clear coating process. Thread participants have identified unprotected raw edges as the cause of filliform corrosion on the trailer panels, and application of Corrosion X stops it. Applying a clear sealer to these edges helps even more.

Roof panels are painted white by Alcoa. They get sheared and have exposed or raw edges too. Has anyone seen filliform migrate it way under the white paint made noticeable by the swelling "mole ridges" under the paint ?

David
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Old 08-30-2014, 09:19 PM   #2121
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Roof panels are painted white by Alcoa. They get sheared and have exposed or raw edges too. Has anyone seen filliform migrate it way under the white paint made noticeable by the swelling "mole ridges" under the paint ?

David, much of the Filiform will send out a squiggle or two and stop. You would never see that under the top paint. Also, I'm trying to remember so not sure, isn't every panel edge on the top completely caulked? Ie., no edges for corrosion to start at?


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Old 03-18-2015, 05:14 PM   #2122
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salt and aluminum

I have read this entire thread from start to finish, someone else has already said it was not a easy thing to do. I have also read the other numerous threads on the subject. Salt, rather from winter delivery to the dealer, camping at the beach, or winter vacationing in snow and ice, salt might be something to consider. My email to Salt-Away and their response follow. In one of their 6 attachments, somewhere, Salt-Away explains the relationship between salt, humidity, oxygen and corrosion.


---- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 11:02 AM
Subject: Salt-Away and aluminum


My question is what effect Salt-Away might have on aluminum? Airstream travel trailers are constructed of aluminum and many of them develop filiform corrosion. This corrosion appears as very unsightly discolorations to the aluminum exterior skin. Salt and humidity are two of probably several conditions and chemicals that start filiform corrosion. Those of us that live near the coast or in northern areas where salt is used on the roadways might benefit from your product. Problem is we don't want to put something on our aluminum trailers that would do more damage the the salt already does.


Thank you very much for your time
Kenneth Tipton


On 3/18/15 2:49 PM, Sales at Salt-Away wrote:
Hello Kenneth,
Thank you for your message and for your question about Salt-Away on aluminum.


When we developed Salt-Away some 20 years ago, we were very aware about the affects of chemicals on metals, specifically soft metals such as aluminum. The product was first designed to be used to flush salt out of the engine of salt water boats. Part of the construction of those engines is made of aluminum. Many boat trailers are made of aluminum. And we also wanted our product to be safe for aircraft, aluminum Bass boats, recreational vehicles and other common products made of aluminum; air conditioners, window frames, bicycles, etc.


To accomplish this, our specifications for the chemist who designed the formula included, among other things, safe usage on all the soft metals; aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, foil, gold, and other alloyed metals. The end result of the formula for Salt-Away, became a water-based product containing no acids. It is normally acids that scar soft metals and harder alloyed metals.


Our product cannot repair metal surfaces corroded or marked previous to its use. Salt-Away easily washes salt and other soluble contaminants from any surface without harm. For the first time application on your Airstream, we recommend making sure the entire trailer (and your towing vehicle) is completely sprayed and wet with the product. Do not rinse with fresh water. Allow it to air dry, then apply again soon with Salt-Away as before. We recommend not washing off the product each time you use it. For your 1st application, the reason to re-apply a second time, is there may be some accumulation of salt in all the junctures and connections, seams and other tight places. The initial application of Salt-Away can completely remove the salt from all the exterior broad surface areas, but any accumulated salt may have been wetted and soaked but still stuck in the tight places, and the second application can flush out those places.


The equipment required to apply Salt-Away to your vehicles is the Salt-Away Mixing Unit, a garden hose and a garden hose end sprayer. The Salt-Away Mixing Unit automatically dilutes the product to the recommended ratio (512:1), so there is no need to pre-dilute the product. The Mixing Unit is positioned in-line between the water hose and the hose end sprayer. A substitute method of applying Salt-Away if you are in an area where there are no water hoses, is with a compression pump sprayer (weed sprayer). The dilution ratio is 2 ounces of SA per gallon of water. Make sure the compression is high during its use. Pressure is required to allow gravity to cause rapid flow which is how the salt is removed.


Here is a link to our website Products pages. Reviewing the items may help you with your purchasing decisions.
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/Products.htm


If ordering online is not a problem, you can purchase Salt-Away through Amazon and eBay. Also, below is a list of other online suppliers.
www.theruststore.com
www.partman.com
www.westmarine.com
www.fisheriessupply.com
www.seamar.com
www.meltontackle.com
www.jmtackle.com
www.defender.com
www.reeldraggintackle.com
www.sandsharkanchor.com
www.thelongfin.com
www.yjbstore.com
www.backwaterbait.com


Attached are some documents that give detailed information about Salt-Away, its applications, methods of delivery, dilution ratios and other facts that may be useful to you. On Page 2 of the instructions for flushing boat engines, is a discussion on exterior washing, which would be the method of delivery for your application.


If you have any other questions, please contact us. How did you learn about Salt-Away?


Best regards,
Lenora Meister, President & CEO
Salt-Away Products, Inc.
3633 West MacArthur Blvd, Suite 412
Santa Ana, CA 92704
714-550-0987
888-725-8292
Admin@SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAway.xyz




----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: Salt-Away and aluminum



May I copy and paste your email below to a post here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ams-31743.html
Thank you
Kenneth Tipton

Hi Kenneth,


You certainly may. Thank you so very much for asking our permission. It is very kind of you.


Best regards,
Lenora Meister, President & CEO
Salt-Away Products, Inc.
3633 West MacArthur Blvd, Suite 412
Santa Ana, CA 92704
714-550-0987
888-725-8292
Admin@SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAway.xyz
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:16 PM   #2123
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Question

Ken,

The question is not what effect the product will have on the aluminum.....but what effect it will have on the clear coat?

Don't you think if salt-away was any good Alcoa, Boeing, NASA and Airstream would be using/recommending it?

IMHO...whatever it costs, don't waste your money.

This is my salt-away, plenty of water plus a mild car wash soap, and a quality wax or paint sealer.

Sweet Streams

Bob
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:11 AM   #2124
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Bob, a simple common sense response to a complicated problem. You are most likely correct!! Peace,jim
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:35 AM   #2125
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Kenneth, it might be good to check with Salt Away to ask about the effect on our corrosion X (sitting in the seams and around the rivets) and our wax job also.

((8. Rinsing off equipment with fresh water before or after the Salt-Away treatment is not necessary. Leaving Salt-Away on the
equipment after the application will allow the solution to drizzle and drain into areas that stay wetter longer and where pooled salt is more likely to cause corrosion from the inside-out. Salt-Away permeates through hardened, accumulated salt and the corrosion inhibitors in the product become effective when the equipment is not in use.))

I and an awful lot of salt water boaters have used the stuff. I never came to a conclusion of whether it was of any more value than just a good rinse after use. However, in salt water boating, what could it hurt?

My main concern here is leaving the solution on the trailer. If it is strong enough to permeate hardened accumulated salt, what will it do to the clear coat, wax, etc.?

And Bob, what do you know about salt, running that go-fast hydrofoil around the Niagara River? Zebra mussels, yes; but salt?

Howard
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:48 AM   #2126
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[QUOTE=Howard
"And Bob, what do you know about salt, running that go-fast hydrofoil around the Niagara River? Zebra mussels, yes; but salt?"

Howard[/QUOTE]

Don't even mention it Howard....we got two itch's to scratch.
After this overly snowy Winter, Ice-out can't come soon enough.

Bob
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:06 PM   #2127
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Ops, forgot about Buffalo Winter --and with daughter still living there. Been gone so long I forget about salt anywhere but the Gulf of Mexico.

But there you have an old man's dream--Go slow Airstream and go fast boat.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:55 AM   #2128
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I have a 2008 534 International with all the corrosion problems mentioned. The local AS guys in the UK suggest replacing panels or spraying with paint. Your thread is really interesting. Can someone pls give me the best proven solution to remedy the corrosion issues whilst maintaining the appearance. Thanks
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