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Old 08-24-2014, 01:09 PM   #2101
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Doug, the sealant you talk about at the panel edges, I take as the AcrylR used to seal the overlaying seams. On my trailer, there are some edges that are covered with the gray sealant-though not completely. Other edges look to be wiped completely clean. It was at the clean edges, even with the sealant showing, where the edge creeping Filiform started in several places.
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So, I can say with certainty my trailer edges were not treated. Plus, remember, Cust serv said they did not coat the edges. The rivets? There are just too many that show a thread or two of white squiggle to suggest any coating is applied prior to riveting. A corrosion X coated rivet would be the ticket there. Or a quick spritz of corrosion preventative at the holes prior to riveting would work.


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Old 08-24-2014, 01:25 PM   #2102
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Thanks Howard, I would agree it is an overlapping edge sealant rather than a protective treatment.
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:35 PM   #2103
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I am picking up a new airstream soon and have a question.

After applying corrosion-x to the edges, is it OK to wax with a sealant wax to help protect the edge or will the sealant wax remove the corrosion-x treatment?
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Old 08-24-2014, 01:58 PM   #2104
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Originally Posted by RVDreamer View Post
I am picking up a new airstream soon and have a question.



After applying corrosion-x to the edges, is it OK to wax with a sealant wax to help protect the edge or will the sealant wax remove the corrosion-x treatment?

Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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Old 08-24-2014, 04:56 PM   #2105
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Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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What product do you recommend for the clear coat?

Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:25 PM   #2106
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Don the factory tour guide told me he uses liquid Turtle Wax on his Airstream.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:58 PM   #2107
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Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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Followed your recommendation today and used Airstream Store's acrylic touchup pen (hard felt-like tip) to put two coats of acrylic on all the panel edges. Took less than an hour and I'm an old guy.

Will continue my quarterly treatment of CorrosionX to the panel edges, panel rivets, and exterior fittings and hinges. About an hour.

That gives us two layers of protection, plus an annual wax.
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:14 PM   #2108
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What product do you recommend for the clear coat?



Thanks!

RV, I use Nyalic. It's a clear liquid polymer. Google their web site to learn more. But, any clear coat will work. You are just making sure the raw edges are permanently coated and will not allow corrosion to start there and you only do this once. You then are looking for the corrosionX to soak in behind the rivets, belt line trim the seams and those same edges to further deter Filiform. That C X and whatever polish you want to use should then be part of maintenance on a regular basis.
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:03 PM   #2109
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Airstream clear coat marker vs nylac? I think before you said you'd spray nylac into the spray top then pain on with small brushes as shown in photo?

Seems like the market would be easier?
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:12 PM   #2110
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For just a touch up or two and the edges, yes the marker would probably do fine. But, remember, I've done some larger areas of repair and those have been with spray. The spray can will provide you with the product to use both ways. Individual choice on product and application method, just get those edges done with something. Not everybody is lucky like M.Hony who has yet to see the first white squiggle.


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Old 08-25-2014, 01:46 PM   #2111
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For just a touch up or two and the edges, yes the marker would probably do fine. But, remember, I've done some larger areas of repair and those have been with spray. The spray can will provide you with the product to use both ways. Individual choice on product and application method, just get those edges done with something. Not everybody is lucky like M.Hony who has yet to see the first white squiggle.


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I bought an aerosol can of Nyalic to apply to the cast aluminum parts on my new trailer. Nyalic Tech support suggests a three step process for surface preparation.

1. Dupont Prep-Sol to remove wax and other contaminants.
2. Dawn detergent.
3. Denatured Alcohol (not isopropyl)

I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:20 PM   #2112
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I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?
Go to a bicycle shop and buy a can of Clean Streak. It removes any trace of wax or grease.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:45 PM   #2113
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I bought an aerosol can of Nyalic to apply to the cast aluminum parts on my new trailer. Nyalic Tech support suggests a three step process for surface preparation.



1. Dupont Prep-Sol to remove wax and other contaminants.

2. Dawn detergent.

3. Denatured Alcohol (not isopropyl)



I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?

When I ordered the product, sales said just sand and clean real well. Prep sol was good to use but not necessary, so I've not. However, you are probably smart to follow all instructions you can. The product adheres well to everything I've applied it to. When I repair a small Filiform line, I lightly scratch the squiggle with a needle, dab some corrosion X in the area and let soak for a few minutes. Then I wipe clean with a dry clean rag and touch up with Nyalic right over the C X film that must still be there in the scratched squiggle. A minute amount of C X is sealed inside and the Nyalic adheres perfectly. But again, except in a case like that where you do not want the oil to be cleaned away, there is no such thing as over cleaning and prepping.

If you are applying to new cast pieces and no Filiform has formed yet, you don't need to sand the original clear coat away unless you want to. Just sand it lightly with 1000 grit, clean well and spray, or brush the Nyalic on. It will over-coat just fine.


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Old 08-28-2014, 02:00 PM   #2114
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I read this thread with interest. I wish Airstream would focus on building the best aluminum shell travel trailer possible. They are unique, an American icon, light weight, and beautifully finished inside. Most folks know them as long lasting trailers. Airstream designers are very good at luxury small space living. I agree with others that Airstream should have discovered this filliform corrosion problem during their pre-production testing. Further, they should have made a corrective action as soon as complaints from customers started coming in.

So Forum members have developed and shared filliform mitigation techniques that keep it in abeyance. And I have also read mitigation techniques against leaks and floor rot. OSB floors anyone? I submit metal frames should not crack or rust in this day and age. Why not use the best tail light housings and marker lights possible? I submit Airstream can improve the trailer so these problems are mostly eliminated.

Airstream should build a top line travel trailer that lasts 50 years. If the pricing of Airstreams was 10% higher, would customers not buy? We willingly pay a huge premium over SOBs to get Airstream "Cadillac" quality. Or is it "Bentley" quality. A 10% adder to materials and workmanship to elevate Airstream out of these complaints would be worth it in my opinion. Back up your progress with the best warranty in the industry.

You probably have heard about Yetti coolers. Here is a "bear proof" ice chest that cost nearly $300 for the small size. It will keep your beverage cool for a long time. It typifies a very high end product. Airstream should have that mindset in my view.

My 86 doesn't have filliform corrosion, but it doesn't have clear coat anymore either. It does have beautiful hickory cabinets that have stood up well through the years. And the drawers don't come open while towing. Those cabinets are what sold the trailer. Premium quality.

"We won't make changes, only improvements" says Wally Byum way back when. Good advice today.

David
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