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Old 05-09-2014, 09:53 PM   #1933
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Quote:
Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
The "official" touch-up pen of Airstream.
https://store.airstream.com/product_...roducts_id=428
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silvery Moon View Post
Seems pretty odd that they would sell such a thing, since everyone knows there's no corrosion problem with Airstreams. <ducking>

Hi, this is part of your maintenance responsibility that you weren't informed about until you tried to get warranty coverage for the concern.
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Old 05-11-2014, 09:40 AM   #1934
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Dont use Costco touch up pens

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Originally Posted by richinny View Post
costco had them but that kind of stuff comes and goes.
Don't use the Costco touch up pens. They leave a slight yellow tint.
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Old 05-11-2014, 11:02 AM   #1935
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Is there a consensus on whether to caulk around new marker lights or not?

I've been following this thread for a couple of years, and I have re skimmed the last year of posts looking for my answer. If I missed the info I apologize. I know there has been a lot of discussion about changing to the classic light bases. What if you don't have the classic bases? There were no gaskets between the light bases and body on our 2011, so I used par bond which was easy. On our 2014 we have the gaskets (they look like foam not rubber), so I'm not sure parbond would work. Should I just remove the lights and caulk the wire penetration in the body? It sure looks like the foam gasket wouldn't stop much water.
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:25 PM   #1936
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Does anyone happen to know how much area a 12 oz. bottle Glare Professional Polish will cover for maximum protection? The guys at Airstream didn't know. I have a 19'.
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Old 05-11-2014, 04:21 PM   #1937
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I am guessing the label might tell how much area to cover aand if you should use sparingly I would guess you would have enough for more than one application. I use liquid glass and have plenty left over after two applications to our 30'. I believe after the first time you'll be able to judge by what's left. That bottle should be more than enough for the first time.

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Old 05-11-2014, 06:29 PM   #1938
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It's plenty. I waxed my Ford Expedition and maybe used an eighth of the bottle.

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Old 05-12-2014, 06:03 PM   #1939
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Landrum View Post
Is there a consensus on whether to caulk around new marker lights or not?

I've been following this thread for a couple of years, and I have re skimmed the last year of posts looking for my answer. If I missed the info I apologize. I know there has been a lot of discussion about changing to the classic light bases. What if you don't have the classic bases? There were no gaskets between the light bases and body on our 2011, so I used par bond which was easy. On our 2014 we have the gaskets (they look like foam not rubber), so I'm not sure parbond would work. Should I just remove the lights and caulk the wire penetration in the body? It sure looks like the foam gasket wouldn't stop much water.
This is your gasket on the 2014. The new gaskets are really the original gaskets for the LED lights plus A larger thin base has been glued to the bottom of the original. This keeps the front and rear edge of the plastic chrome base from digging into the clearcoat.
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It is foam, probably closed cell so it is waterproof. That said, it is in no way going to keep water from the back of your LED clearance lights as a complete caulking would. Caulking the wire penetration in the back of the lights might do the trick if your caulk job is perfect. If you thought you could use the ParBond or Acryl R and seal the light to plastic base and also, plastic base to the hull skin (right over the new gasket) I would do it. AS's written procedure when adding the Classic aluminum bases is to seal all 3 pieces. To my knowledge, they have no caulking instructions for the new gaskets with the LED lights. I haven't seen, so I don't know how much rubber of the new gaskets, like yours, show. So don't know how much caulk would be required to seal over those gaskets. Would it look OK or would it be a mess? You are going to have to answer that one. I would at least use Acryl R or ParBond and seal the lens to the plastic chrome base of every light.

Have you considered buying the Classic cast bases and putting them under all your lights? They look great, if caulked correctly, they stop light fixture moisture and corrosion. Maybe go there if these new larger gaskets fail you.

Good luck
Howard
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Old 05-12-2014, 06:43 PM   #1940
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Thanks for the reply. I really think it would be a mess to caulk over the foam gaskets. Hard to imagine those gaskets will stop water. I'm more concerned about water getting into the AS via the wiring than I am moisture in the light. I guess I will add the classic bases to my wish list along with many other things (centramatics, TPMS, SS shower, SS stove vent). It looks like the bases can be purchased online for approx. $25 each (saw them today at Silver Trailer supply). There goes another $300.

Do you know if I will destroy the marker lights getting them off the trailer? I thought I read that on a thread today.
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Old 05-12-2014, 09:52 PM   #1941
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Yep, too much gasket to try to caulk everything. I would still caulk the area between the LED light and it's plastic chrome base. That area , uncaulked will take in water to the back of the light and also try to send it toward wiring hole on the trailer skin underneath.

Look under: Forums; Exterior restoration;, exterior clearcoat skin, etc at a post of mine from yesterday. You can save that $300 for the Classic bases by doing some painting instead of buying all stainless. Good luck again, you are smart addressing the known AS issues now while new and before something gets damaged or Filiform is staring you in the eye.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:09 PM   #1942
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Forgot. No it won't destroy the lights. They snap into square slots in the plastic chrome bases. Two snaps. Grab light with both hands and rock side to side while pulling away from trailer. Once free the light wiring runs through a rubber grommet into the trailer. It will be caulked so be careful not to pull the wires out of the back of the light itself. AS recommends spraying some silicone spray on the caulked wires to help. You have either 3 or 4 inches of wire to work with. Don't pull wires out farther than that. Think 3 inches to be on safe side. Had a pix of the back of the light and snaps, can't find it on this iPad. It is posted on this thread somewhere.
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Old 05-12-2014, 10:29 PM   #1943
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Thanks again. I think the light bases have moved to the top of my list. It's going to drive me crazy when in rains worrying about water leaking.
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Old 05-13-2014, 04:57 AM   #1944
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This was posted on another thread.

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Old 05-13-2014, 09:17 PM   #1945
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Yeah - my 2014 bunkhouse has those gaskets - I'll be watching for water intrusion like a hawk - if any within my 2 year warranty I'll make them replace with the classic bases

If all is well by 2 years I'll roll on with it I suppose

We are camping - we are supposed to get some rain tomorrow and definately some tomorrow night - I'll report back Thursday after and see if any intrusion

I got a clear coat pen from advanced auto - brand turtle wax - I had a few scratches from whacking the side of the AS with the hose part if the water hose (do t ask it was dumb) - I covered those small scratches with that clear coat before heading down to topsail - have not had the time get to use it on all exposed cut edges - will do later
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Old 05-20-2014, 12:40 PM   #1946
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Corrosion problems with new Airstreams

What's the general consensus on basic care to stop the spread of filiform from the experienced folks ?

1. CorrosionX - wipe on the spots ?
2. Dab corrosionX on the rivets and seams ?
3. Use Boeshield on bottom where jacks are and on rims ?
4. Wash and wax - keep trailer clean ?
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