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Old 05-01-2014, 10:19 PM   #1905
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Howard, I do remember those fighter jets I worked on and the pilots who flew them. You broke 'em and we fixed 'em, we had great respect for each other and were a great team.

I've got a least a million little nicks in a small area from that gravel truck. The Jerk. I hit it good with CorrosionX and wiped it up tonight until I can do a permanent fix.
Oh man!!! Bummer. I took a golf ball size one in the front just below the window and just above the stainless rock guard. It dented the skin at least 1/2 inch. Actually, in that place it doesn't show much. I saw it and a couple more coming and actually ducked. Heard nothing and thought I escaped. The one got me though.

If all your nicks are in a relative small area, you may be better off spot spraying the entire area instead of multiple little touch ups. Nyalic is only slightly more shinny than the Alcoa finish. The overspray shows only in certain reflective conditions. If you spray, just very lightly sand the Alcoa coat with 2000 grit , clean well then spray slightly overlapping the sanded area. Magnify this photo of my Filiform repair along the seam and rivet line. The clear coat overspray area is about 6-8 inches above the seam. Stops just below the running light.

You might try the touch up method first. If don't like, go to spray. Test spray first. It's thin stuff and will run very easily. Do the old auto paint job, shoot a very light coat first and let it get tacky (tack coat). Then ease the finish coat on carefully. Does not need to be thick-just enough to cover.
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:20 PM   #1906
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Howard, I've got so many tiny nicks in the shell panels between the segment protectors behind the propane bottles, and the narrow strip above the segment protectors under the curved front window rock guards.

I'm wondering if I could spray this entire area with Nyalic rather than touch up a million nicks, to seal the nicks and give an additional layer of protection in the future?

Yes the window rock guards were hit as well by the gravel blast; I think I can polish some of that out.

Edit: I see you were answering my question as I was asking it. Thanks Howard!
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Old 05-01-2014, 10:30 PM   #1907
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Howard, I've got so many tiny nicks in the shell panels between the segment protectors behind the propane bottles, and the narrow strip above the segment protectors under the curved front window rock guards.

I'm wondering if I could spray this entire area with Nyalic rather than touch up a million nicks, to seal the nicks and give an additional layer of protection in the future?

Yes the window rock guards were hit as well by the gravel blast; I think I can polish some of that out.

Edit: I see you were answering my question as I was asking it. Thanks Howard!
Buy two spray cans, just in case one starts spitting or something.
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Old 05-01-2014, 11:41 PM   #1908
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Interstate and Doug, I'd like to add one thing here if I could, regarding a brand new trailer. Filiform, if you are unlucky enough to get it (some do and some seem to have no problem) is going to first show up from under a rivet or start on the exposed/overlapping edges of the body panels (or before the new clearance light gaskets, on each end of the light base). For the rivets, Corrosion X soaking in under the rivet head is about all you can do. For the exposed edges, where damage to the clear coat most likely happened during assembly at the factory, or in shipping, you can do more with. Re-clear coat each edge using a small artist touch up brush. you are in effect, just re-clear coating the edge in case the factory applied coat has been compromised. liquid clear coat of your choice, but as posted before, I use the polymer based "Nyalic". It adheres to to metal, paint, other clear coat, etc. very well and does not break down via UV, salt, etc. After the edges are dry, then apply your Corrosion X to the seams themselves. This takes very little time. It will not be necessary as long as the edges are coated well, but you will only know they are not after the filiform starts to form. So the edge touch up just guarantees full and permanent coverage. Here's what happens if an edge coating is compromised and you spend a couple of weeks next to salt air.

Attachment 211011

Order Nyalic on line:

Attachment 211012

Your clear coat on cast pieces and things like the wheel well trim will show loss of coating sooner than you would like. They are an easy fix with Nyalic also. Just sand with 2000 grit and either tape off and spray or if small like the boarding handle, hinges or trim, use a slightly larger brush. The product flows very well and thus small brush work looks as good as spray.

Tail light castings sprayed and door hinge brushed.

Attachment 211013
Attachment 211014

If I was bringing one home brand new right now, I would lightly sand and go ahead and coat right over the factory clear on the handle, hinges, tail light castings, wheel well trim and maybe even the rear bumper. Again, no problem if you don't the fix is easy when needed.
Great post Howard. It's such a shame that we have to go though this. I started the time consuming process two months after taking delivery.

There are people who sought legal satisfaction and have confidential settlements but had to give up their trailers.......so I hear.

I've elected to keep mine and occasionally use Corrosion X and acrylic on the panels when the squiggles appear. It works well and I've stopped it from growing. I'll try your method on the cast items.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:34 AM   #1909
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I was at Carlisle last weekend and saw aluminum rims for sale with extream corrosion. I wonder if manufactors are using ''fillers'' to stretch the supply. My mother used milk for scramble eggs. Taco Bell uses 20% ''filler'' in their beef. This filler may be causing the corosion problems. This thred is the reason why I own a 1999.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:13 AM   #1910
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I was at Carlisle last weekend and saw aluminum rims for sale with extream corrosion. I wonder if manufactors are using ''fillers'' to stretch the supply. My mother used milk for scramble eggs. Taco Bell uses 20% ''filler'' in their beef. This filler may be causing the corosion problems. This thred is the reason why I own a 1999.
I think 1999 was the year they switched from the peeling Airstream applied clear coated panels to the filiform plagued Alcoa precoated panels. Which poison did you get?
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:39 AM   #1911
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Doug, I have a 1' by 2' section of pealing on the front panel above the word airstream thats it. I guess that's the lesser of the two evils. I bought it from a couple in their 80s. The trailer had been sitting unused for a while. I wonder what is American made anymore. My Dodge ram srt is assembled in mexico and my wifes Honda in Ohio. Go figure..... Have a nice weekend everone. Gregg
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:45 AM   #1912
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Doug, one last thing and I'll get off line here. Your damage area, behind the propane tanks will fix just fine with no overspray or blending of the clear coat since you can spray the entire area. Just tape off the stainless rock guards, window guards and belt line strips then, spray the whole area. Don't think you will, but just a reminder, do not sand the Alcoa clear coat any more than to just dull it a little as prep for the Nyalic. If you sand through to the aluminum, you lose the Alcoa glow and end up with the dull gray of bare aluminum (it will not polish back up to the Alcoa coated color). There is the one RustOleum bright silver metallic paint that blends pretty well, but don't go there for just this rock chip problem.

Clear coat sanded through to metal:
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:18 AM   #1913
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Howard, thanks again for the detailed information, very useful. I'll take a closer look at the gravel damage today and decide how to fix it. We landed in Battle Lake yesterday after six months away, plenty to do here as well. Gardens, house, family, too many cars, boat, dock, Dr. appointments. In the meantime the CorrosionX is on there to protect the exposed nicks in the finish.
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Old 05-02-2014, 06:50 PM   #1914
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Don't think you will, but just a reminder, do not sand the Alcoa clear coat any more than to just dull it a little as prep for the Nyalic. If you sand through to the aluminum, you lose the Alcoa glow and end up with the dull gray of bare aluminum (it will not polish back up to the Alcoa coated color).

Clear coat sanded through to metal:


I agree...that looks terrible!!! I'd rather have corrosion than a bunch of non-matching silver spots and uneven lines. Bleh!!!
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:24 PM   #1915
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ggoat, someone ought to take you behind the barn and teach you some manners.

Howard has offered repairs and contributed more to solving this corrosion issue than anyone here. He is taking damn good care of his Airstream and showing us how to take care of ours. You are offering nothing, go away.
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Old 05-02-2014, 07:54 PM   #1916
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I'm at Foley RV tonight sleeping in my new AS. I was walking around and spotted a 2004 getting some work done. That's the first one I've seen in person with a considerable amount of filliform along the edges. I would much rather have that fix (sanding off the filliform and touch-up sealer) than the filliform.
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Old 05-02-2014, 08:45 PM   #1917
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I agree...that looks terrible!!! I'd rather have corrosion than a bunch of non-matching silver spots and uneven lines. Bleh!!!
You are correct if your area is small. Don't take the time, just stop it from growing--corrosion x, etc. But if you have a bigger area, you might want to reconsider and do a repair. You have the , after sanding, picture there. Look at the same area after -- spraying with metallic paint and then re clear coating. It's not a perfect match, but much better than corrosion, and as you will agree, much better than just sanding and leaving.

Having trouble getting more than one photo on tonight, will shoot you a photo of paint used.
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Old 05-02-2014, 09:03 PM   #1918
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Here's your paint. Depending on where, what and how big an area you are going to fix, then repaint, you will have to prep the area differently. In this case a template slightly larger than repaired area was cut out of poster board, taped into place, shimmed from behind to hold off the surface (so as to allow a soft painted edge and not a sharp one as tape would). It's a little work, but it comes out looking pretty good if you are stuck with larger areas of the corrosion. Best fix--- don't let it get that far. Set up an inspection and maintainence program like Doug talks about.
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