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Old 11-29-2013, 09:23 PM   #1779
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Didn't know about the alcohol clean up. Thanks. I might just go with the Parbond for the light to cast base. AdSeal is the new sealant that A/S is sending with their kits. I am replacing one LED light that had moisture inside the light. It had an area where the lens and chrome base are together that had a large enough gap to allow water.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:34 PM   #1780
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Didn't know about the alcohol clean up. Thanks. I might just go with the Parbond for the light to cast base. AdSeal is the new sealant that A/S is sending with their kits. I am replacing one LED light that had moisture inside the light. It had an area where the lens and chrome base are together that had a large enough gap to allow water.
Please keep us informed on progress and how it came out.
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Old 11-29-2013, 09:36 PM   #1781
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Hey, look who crawled out of a snowbank. . . lol
Hasn't snowed enough yet, but remodeling one house and trying to sell the other takes a bit of time….

Well, the new house had about 5" of snow when we got there a week or so ago. I brought the snow blower just in time. Better not snow a lot in Crawford with 850' of driveway—new house has steeper driveway, so it gets the snowblower.

Back to corrosion….

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Old 11-29-2013, 10:43 PM   #1782
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Amazes me that here we are about 6 years from the start of this thread and we're all still guessing, trying to prevent the inevitable through a variety of methods.

As has been discussed, every breach into the sheet metal, in addition to dissimilar metals increases the risk of corrosion appearing. It's my understanding that the factory no longer has exposed belt lines, which has reduced the corrosion at the belt line for the most part, but has not addressed other areas (rivets, window/door cuts, running/clearance lights, etc).

Hard to fathom, but my trailer, as of the date of manufacture, will be crossing the 10 year mark in about a day or two (seems like only yesterday I made the trip to Ohio to pick it up). I consider myself one of the lucky ones as I've seen some trailers that have been far younger than mine that look like they are far older in many aspects, including, but not limited to corrosion.
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Old 11-30-2013, 02:15 PM   #1783
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Amazes me that here we are about 6 years from the start of this thread and we're all still guessing, trying to prevent the inevitable through a variety of methods. As has been discussed, every breach into the sheet metal, in addition to dissimilar metals increases the risk of corrosion appearing. It's my understanding that the factory no longer has exposed belt lines, which has reduced the corrosion at the belt line for the most part, but has not addressed other areas (rivets, window/door cuts, running/clearance lights, etc). Hard to fathom, but my trailer, as of the date of manufacture, will be crossing the 10 year mark in about a day or two (seems like only yesterday I made the trip to Ohio to pick it up). I consider myself one of the lucky ones as I've seen some trailers that have been far younger than mine that look like they are far older in many aspects, including, but not limited to corrosion.
I'm sure 6 1/2 years ago when you started this thread, you had no earthly idea it would have the staying power it has had. Too bad to, as it would have been so nice for hundreds of us if it was a problem that went away. Thanks to you however, as a group we have come up with some ways to minimize the problem. The company has become involved in some of the problems also, such as the clearance light issues. Since early detection and treatment is the key to keeping the problem to a minimum, the company should, IMHO, post a bulletin in a "New Owners Packet" noting what to watch for and what to do. We haven't seen that, I doubt we ever will and that's too bad. Info in the manual and at JC on what to do after the fact. Whoopee.

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Old 12-02-2013, 09:41 AM   #1784
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Howard and Eric, you are both correct. We have had little corrosion except on door hinges and tail lights. We had the molding installed on the belt line pretty early in our ownership of the trailer.

The best way to prevent corrosion is to move to the desert.

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Old 01-18-2014, 06:26 PM   #1785
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A bit if the filiform on the grab handle so far and that is all I've spotted

I've treated all seems and such with corrosion x (I think I made that job messier than I had to) - went to canopener - washed when I got back - so far so good...boeshield T9 underneath and in hitch

I wonder if I should put boeshield on wheels too?
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:28 PM   #1786
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I was still weeping (weeping is a bit if a strong word) corrosion x from the seems while in Fl...the belt line really soaked it in - wiped down excess a couple times
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:58 PM   #1787
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Pharm, you did good. In my book there is no such thing as too much "X". Actually there probably is, but error on the too much, messy side. Many ideas on the wheels. I sprayed Boeshield on real thick, running off at the bottom. Let sit overnight and next day with it set up waxy thick like, I wiped off all excess. This leaves a waxy film, but is not noticeable. Like my hull, I started late when some corrosion was already showing on the rims. But, I've done the treatment only once and no progression of corrosion nor anything new. Grab handle, door hinges and maybe tail light castings are going to fail. When tired of looking at them: 2000 grit sand and re-clearcoat or keep polished. Keep an eye on the wheel-well trim pieces also.
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:35 PM   #1788
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Dick McIntyre of Monroe, OR refinished several Airstreams with the corrosion problem this last summer. He has discovered several reasons why this problem exists and has some expert advice for you. Email him at 26941dawsonrd@gmail.com
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Old 01-18-2014, 07:45 PM   #1789
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What are the reasons he has found??
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:44 PM   #1790
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This individual should get on the forums and put it on here!!

I'll email him though and report back perhaps
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:45 PM   #1791
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I have finished installing the cast pieces on all the marker lights. I removed each one and sanded with 2000 grit sandpaper until I got no more white and the area was smooth. I treated it with Corrosion X, wiped several times and used the clear coat pen to cover the area with clear. When I sealed my lights I used AdSeal on the bases of the cast piece and around the light base that screws to the trailer as well as the screw holes. Then I used Acryl-R around the cast base, the screw down base where it meets the cast base and around the seam of the plastic lens. I wiped everything with alcohol as I was cleaning. I tried to make sure I had a small space at the bottom of each in case water became trapped inside somewhere. As soon as it warms up a little more, I will was the trailer and apply Corrosion X to the seams and rivets. I don't really want to get much Corrosion X inside the seams as I don't want to take a chance on that product affecting the seals between panels. If you look closely you would probably see Acryl-R not perfectly applied but you won't see any pen holes or breaks in the seal.
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Old 01-18-2014, 08:46 PM   #1792
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I'll hit the rims with the T9 for sure.

How the hell do I dissolve the X from the microfiber - put in washer with detergent - seeming did nothing
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