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Old 10-09-2013, 06:18 PM   #1723
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Howard,

Are you using one of the aerosol "kits" on your repairs?

I sent them an email and was informed that they don't sell pts, qts or gal to protect their licensed applicators.
I have other projects I'm doing and wanted to give this a try, along with the Diamond Clear.

They were willing to send me a quart...for $109.00.

Bob
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:18 PM   #1724
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Howard,

Are you using one of the aerosol "kits" on your repairs?

I sent them an email and was informed that they don't sell pts, qts or gal to protect their licensed applicators.
I have other projects I'm doing and wanted to give this a try, along with the Diamond Clear.

They were willing to send me a quart...for $109.00.

Bob
I did not buy a kit or talk to them about that. The Nyalic quart was available for that $100+ price. I also ordered two 12 oz aerosol spray cans, I think around $30 a can. It goes on very thin and thus goes a long way. I did not try to buy anything but the quart and the spray cans, but no problem with that purchase. For touch up of the corrosion we are dealing with, one spray can of Nyalic would do it all. For the liquid touch up's with a small artist brush, you could just spray a small amount into the lid and dab that on the spot filiform. It's a polymer "polymeric resin'" and dries to touch in 15 min, dry cure in 4 days and full hard cure in 30 days. Lacquer thinner is listed as it's solvent, however I've found that acetone and denatured alcohol, will dissolve the stuff even after 30 days. So we need to be careful and plan ahead if Acryl R or par bond is to be used as Alcohol is the solvent to remove that residue. Mineral spirits, Naphtha, Kerosene all OK. It's ever so slightly shinier than Alcoa clear coat. But, after spraying an area over the Alcoa coat, you have to find just the right surface reflective view to see any difference at all--just not an issue.

I posted some time back about becoming familiar with the product when we coated some old pitted aluminum outriggers on an offshore fishing boat. After 4 years in that constant salt water environment, the riggers looked exactly as they did the day we cleaned them up and painted with Nyalic. Not one spot of advancing corrosion.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:50 PM   #1725
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Wow Howard - impressive match!!
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:20 PM   #1726
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Sanded down the ugly blisters on my battery door frames. While looking at spray paint and clear coat products at the hardware store, it dawned on me. Why not just wax it. I usually wax the trailer twice a year anyway, and wax won't flake off. So hear is the result. I'll let you know in a year or so if it worked lol.

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Old 10-21-2013, 03:26 PM   #1727
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Worked for me a few years back...I used HB though.

Bob
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Old 10-21-2013, 03:52 PM   #1728
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Ahhhh, great, then wax has held up for two years? How often you wax it?
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Old 10-21-2013, 05:31 PM   #1729
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I'll usually touch up the polish job with Griot's metal polish at Spring get-ready and seal with the Griot's Paint Sealer.

First rate products with excellent customer service.

Check out the Mop on a Pole for washing.

Bob
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Old 10-22-2013, 07:59 PM   #1730
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That Griot's stuff works (Bob turned me on to it)—now they have One Step Sealant which I think is a little better than Paint Sealant. You can refresh during the year or more the stuff lasts with Spray on Wax.

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Old 10-22-2013, 08:40 PM   #1731
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hmmm...im circling now wondering if one step sealant would be better...that has sorta some polishing compound in it too....that wont hurt the AS though would it..

I did get the random orbital sander too...ready to seal my new baby soon

Also got the moisture detector...

Ready go with the boeshield T9...have not yet bought the corrosion X....what is the diff in "HD" vs. not? does it matter which I use?
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:22 PM   #1732
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Pharm,

Gene prefers the one step as it has a mild polish along with the sealant.

I use a clay bar,(if needed), wax and then the straight sealant.

I think we both end up in about the same place, I probably sweat more though.

Not sure...corrosion x heavy duty? I have no experience with it.

You may find this interesting.

Bob
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:45 PM   #1733
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interesting review....makes me want to do something else for a trip to the beach...but I am not submerging the AS in salt water so perhaps corrosion X used before and after the trip (including washing etc) will do all that I can....wondering if based on those test results one of those better salt water products would be better for a beach trip...

regarding one step vs. straight up sealant....boy that one step sounds easier - ill have to consider....time for me is a very limited thing
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:49 PM   #1734
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HD may be too thick for use on the shell, hard to wipe up, but you should try it. We're always looking for improved products.

I use CorrosionX on the shell edges, rivets and fittings. Glare polish (as recommend and sold by Airstream Service Center) on the shell, windows, skylights, plastic rock guard, propane cover, and wheels as a UV protector, finish sealant, and polish. Boeshield T9 on the underbody steel. Aerospace 303 Protectant on window seals (UV protection and keeps them from sticking), plastic parts, and sealants.

Works well, no corrosion whatsoever in two years outside, some 14 months traveling. But I have not camped near salt water or driven on winter salt roadways; that may be where "HD" would be useful.
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Old 10-22-2013, 11:24 PM   #1735
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I use Corrosion X HD. See past post (who knows how many pages back). It is thicker and will not wash off. Best bet, use Corrosion x regular first time, especially on your new AS. The second time use the HD. Spray on every seam and rivet. You don't need to let the HD stay on too long, then wipe off with dry rag, will take several rags. A few days later, if you look real close, you will see the very thin residue of the HD in the seams/rivet edges and it will stay there through washings-- exactly what we want.

When you want to touch up the stuff, the regular is fine. And if going to fix a small Filiform, then reseal with clear coat, regular X fine also. The long haul staying power of the HD is what you want in those seams and rivet edges.
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Old 10-23-2013, 04:26 AM   #1736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PharmGeek View Post
interesting review....makes me want to do something else for a trip to the beach...but I am not submerging the AS in salt water so perhaps corrosion X used before and after the trip (including washing etc) will do all that I can....wondering if based on those test results one of those better salt water products would be better for a beach trip...

regarding one step vs. straight up sealant....boy that one step sounds easier - ill have to consider....time for me is a very limited thing
Don't fret....do something, anything even if others say it's rong.
I've said it a hunnert times, it's not so much what you do, it's that your doing IT. Maintenance is not all that complicated. Find a good routine that works for you and be consistent.

Fillyform's been around for awhile, the World hasn't ended yet.



Bob
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