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Old 10-04-2013, 11:40 AM   #1709
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AnnieAir, we are all interested in very interesting information. Kindly tell us more.
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Old 10-04-2013, 09:23 PM   #1710
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AnnieAir, we are all interested in very interesting information. Kindly tell us more.
Hi, she sells light weight aluminum horse trailers; Curious as to what she has to say about corrosion.
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:51 PM   #1711
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What's best

First I should say hi to everyone , my first post , have been doing so much reading as I just got my dream trailer , 2013 int 27FB , will be picking it up in a few weeks in Ca

After finding this tread and topic and trying to read most of it , which is a chore in itself

I"d like a little advice ,

My thoughts are , before the first trip or ride, coat the bottom with t9 , wash the outside by hand with clear water and a touch of vinegar , let dry good , then do a good coat of wax ,


If you had to pick up a new trailer , what would you do first , any other advice
Please and thanks
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:07 AM   #1712
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Originally Posted by dutchie View Post
First I should say hi to everyone , my first post , have been doing so much reading as I just got my dream trailer , 2013 int 27FB , will be picking it up in a few weeks in Ca

After finding this tread and topic and trying to read most of it , which is a chore in itself

I"d like a little advice ,

My thoughts are , before the first trip or ride, coat the bottom with t9 , wash the outside by hand with clear water and a touch of vinegar , let dry good , then do a good coat of wax ,


If you had to pick up a new trailer , what would you do first , any other advice
Please and thanks
Hi dutchie... Welcome to AirForums!

If I were you, I'd spray any visible areas of filiform corrosion with Boeshield T-9 and wipe it off before it dries. (It quickly penetrates any breaks in the clear coating of newer Airstreams... some report that it is difficult to wipe off once it dries... T-9 leaves a waxy residue that helps seal the breaks from oxygen and salts that can penetrate and result in corrosion.)

Then I'd wash the trailer with a good quality car wash and use a chamois to wipe off water spots with clear water and, as you say, "a touch of vinegar".

After it dries... perhaps the next day... apply a good quality wax such as Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Professional Sealant #20 (which easily buffs into a beautiful shine and leaves a silky smooth finish).

I then apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to window, door and Fan-Tastic Fan rubber seals to protect them from UV damage and keeps them from sticking.

This regimen has worked well for me over the past 6 years to prevent the growth of filiform corrosion and to protect and beautify the trailer.

See: "Safari shine on harvest moon"
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Old 10-05-2013, 02:30 PM   #1713
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Correction in the sequence of the suggested items in my post above:

I wash the trailer first, then apply and wipe off T-9, then wax!
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Old 10-07-2013, 01:53 PM   #1714
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Has anyone used a clear coat pen over Boeshield T-9 on filiform corrosion?

Would Corrosion X and clear coat pen make a better filiform treatment?
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Old 10-07-2013, 02:18 PM   #1715
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Has anyone used a clear coat pen over Boeshield T-9 on filiform corrosion?

Would Corrosion X and clear coat pen make a better filiform treatment?
Boeshield does leave a paraffin wax coating. I don't use it on the shell, but use CorrosionX.

There are different techniques but the goal is to create a barrier between environmental moisture and exposed metal or filiform on the metal. If moisture can't get to it, it can't corrode.

Think of the fire triangle for firefighters. Similar to Airstream corrosion which can only occur with metal, salt, and moisture. Take out one leg of that triangle and you're good.

I always apply CorrosionX to a scratch/ding, wipe it very well, then apply acrylic pen. As an extra measure.
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Old 10-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #1716
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Has anyone used a clear coat pen over Boeshield T-9 on filiform corrosion?

Would Corrosion X and clear coat pen make a better filiform treatment?
After working with this problem for a year now, I agree with Doug above (Bob, who has been at this problem for several years, uses similar techniques). Stop the filiform with the corrosion X and then re-seal the area with a clear coat. I scratch the filiform ever so slightly with a knife point or needle, let corrosion x soak there for a while, wipe off with a dry cloth then seal the area with Nyalic clear coat. Clear coat pen, auto clear coat touch up, clear fingernail polish, etc. will work, just get it resealed after the corrosion x treatment. My FC has some corrosion I let get a bit away from me and had to sand a small area to remove the filiform. Lesson learned: it is so important to keep a keen eye on the trailer and stop the filiform early when it's just a small white line or two.

Boeshield T-9 on the aluminum wheel rims works real well. Spray it on thickly, let dry and wipe off a day later. The Wax shield left seems to stop further corrosion on the wheels. It will not be a lasting fix like the clear coat is, so personally I use the Nyalic for all skin repairs. Just set up a program of repair and preventative measures of choice. Everything helps, your cholce of products.

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Old 10-08-2013, 09:31 PM   #1717
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I have been to like 5 hardware and parts stores looking for this stuff , so far only luck is on T9 , I got 2 cans ,

Can someone tell me the names of stores in the US that would have corrosion X , and I also need a can of clear coat Nyalic , I have a 4 day drive down to pick up my new trailer in San Francisco and will have time to stop and pick it up

Thanks for the advice and your opinions gentleman
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:10 PM   #1718
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Dutchie, it's best to order the Corrosion X from the Airstream web site. And buy a couple of the large cans-- you'll need them.
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Old 10-08-2013, 10:29 PM   #1719
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I found it on Amazon.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:39 AM   #1720
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Corrosion X-- marine hardware store or Amazon Online (corrosion x, corrosion x HD, corrosion x aviation). Nyalic clear coat-- from the distributor in GA, 770 690 1480.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:40 AM   #1721
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Sounds good if performance matches price point.

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Old 10-09-2013, 01:54 PM   #1722
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Matching skin color fixing larger corrosion areas.

In an earlier post I noted where a 3 week stay next to a south Texas windy beach brought on a large area of filiform that ran upward from an edge of one of the molded panels on the right rear area. Not noticing the corrosion right away, it grew to a line of filiform areas as large as a quarter or more in several places (first photo). Once detected, i opted to sand the corrosion away and re-clear coat. This removed the corrosion, but gave me a number of aluminum skin areas along that edge that were now darker than the Alcoa clear coated finish (second photo). Yesterday I spray painted those darker areas using a paint that matches skin color as close as anything found to date (Rust-Oleum Metallic "Brilliant Metal Finish" bar code # 7271 Silver Metallic) (Bottom photo).

Process was: 1, Lightly sand (2000 grit) the clear coated area and clean with mineral spirits. 2, First with tracing paper and then transferring to poster board, I cut the poster board to a slightly overlapping pattern of the darker/repaired aluminum areas. 3, Taped this patterned poster board along the area to be painted--placing small cardboard pieces under the poster board edges to hold it off the metal surface so as to not paint a hard edge and allow some paint feathering. Once dry, lightly sanded with 3000 grit paper to remove overspray sand feel and then shoot a coat of Nyalic clear coat on the newly painted area. The result is not perfect by any means, but if you have to sand an area of corrosion this will minimize the different aluminum skin look from the factory finish.

Again, early detection of small areas is the key. Corrosion X and a bit of clear touch up and this kind of repair above will not be necessary.
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