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Old 09-27-2013, 08:07 PM   #1695
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From your experience, does Corrosion X hold up to normal trailer washings?
Hard to know. And that's the tough part, you only know if it is holding up if corrosion begins to appear. I apply CorrosionX at least quarterly, and areas where I wash off bugs or any crud more often. And we do not live in a corrosive environment; if headed for the beach I may apply it before the visit and wash after.

Too much of it can't hurt anything and it's easy to apply. Error on the side of caution I think. There are other threads on washing, but car wash soaps applied gently would be least likely to remove it.

Two years and no trace of corrosion yet but I think that will change. We'll most surely get some but it won't be the end of the world. Will continue to apply CorrosionX to keep it in check, and if it gets bad enough I'll remove it carefully and clear coat or paint. Maybe someday paint the whole thing silver.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:13 PM   #1696
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I spent the afternoon applying Corrosion X to panel edges (no corrosion), window frames (corroded), door frame and grab handle (corroded), running light frames (corroded), external fridge and water heater doors (corroded), wheel well trim (corroded) and cast parts (most corroded) on my 2013 International purchased in March.

I was surprised to find random squiggles of filiform corrosion on open areas of the panels as well as at the edges of rivets. Covered them with Corrosion X.

I was however prepared for corrosion at the edges of the window frames. The areas are not hugely apparent from a distance. But, I actually discovered lots of edge corrosion in photographs from GoPro cameras that I had mounted with suction cups on the body. Photo editing processes uncovered corrosion on cut areas and and places that were abraded in assembly and which should have been polished and sealed. What an eye opener!
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:48 PM   #1697
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Might be good to touch those tiny squiggles in the open field of the panels with a fine point clear coat touchup pen, just enough to seal them from moisture or they will want to grow.

Los Osos is a nice place to live. We came out their twice to buy VW campers from Go-Westy. Great touring machines.
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Old 09-28-2013, 01:19 AM   #1698
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Might be good to touch those tiny squiggles in the open field of the panels with a fine point clear coat touchup pen, just enough to seal them from moisture or they will want to grow.

Los Osos is a nice place to live. We came out their twice to buy VW campers from Go-Westy. Great touring machines.
Thanks Doug. I'll try that.

Go-Westy does a pretty nice job. I remember a few years ago he sold a really nice well appointed 4WD to someone in Minnesota. Was that you?
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:29 AM   #1699
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A regular wash routine won't do much to prevent filiform, what it does is provide the opportunity to find and address it.
Do something, anything, even if it's rong ....you'll learn along the way, from here and your own experience.




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So when is this..."old enough to know better" supposed to kick in?
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Old 09-28-2013, 10:44 AM   #1700
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A regular wash routine won't do much to prevent filiform, what it does is provide the opportunity to find and address it. Do something, anything, even if it's rong ....you'll learn along the way, from here and your own experience. Bob
Bob,

I don't understand your assertion re: regular wash routine not being effective.

Review of several technical articles by corrosion specialists informs me that there are basically two post-production methods to inhibit filliform corrosion:

1. Regular cleaning.
2. Storage in low relative humidity.

Cleaning should help remove the road and environmental contaminants that attack the thin organic clear coat. Application of quality clear coat protection should help defer environmental deterioration.

As you say, regular cleaning (actually hand-drying) provides the best opportunity for inspection.

I can see using Corrosion X as additional protection in damaged or hidden areas.

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Old 09-28-2013, 11:10 AM   #1701
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It's a highly effective method, it just doesn't do much to stop it from breaking out. Highlight "much".

What works for me, works for me. I don't use X and I don't use Beo or the walberstuff.
Keeping the AS clean and sealed, and dealing with the filiform as it is found.
"Cloudsplitter" is 10yrs old with no new serious outbreaks since the initial repairs, basically just checking prior areas of concern.

It's not so much what your doing, it's the fact that your doing it.

Bob
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Old 09-28-2013, 11:43 AM   #1702
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Bob,

I don't understand your assertion re: regular wash routine not being effective.

Review of several technical articles by corrosion specialists informs me that there are basically two post-production methods to inhibit filliform corrosion:

1. Regular cleaning.
2. Storage in low relative humidity.

Cleaning should help remove the road and environmental contaminants that attack the thin organic clear coat. Application of quality clear coat protection should help defer environmental deterioration.

As you say, regular cleaning (actually hand-drying) provides the best opportunity for inspection.

I can see using Corrosion X as additional protection in damaged or hidden areas.

Still Learning,
JamuJoe
JamuJoe, not tying to speak for Bob, but regular washing I'll not prevent it. It will be a part of effective control. If your trailer has one inch of clear coat skinned off from, let's say, a molded panel edge and you spend a few days in the salt film of a windy salt water beach you are going to see Filiform from that area in the very near future. If you wash the trailer when home, probably too late (with filiform, don't know if anyone knows a timeline of exposure to cause/effect) Rinsing every day while in the highly corrosive environment would help, but no guarantee to prevent. Corrosion X stops it, so would prevent it if present. I bet "Corrosion Block" would work also--I've used in in marine environment. To answer an other question also, the thinner Corrosion X in the RED bottle or can is great for the first application. If you switch to the blue/green spray can of "Corrosion X HD" for future applications, it is much thicker "HD", so in the seams and rivet edges it remains in place through rain, washes, etc. If HD is not wiped of after a few days it gets to where it requires mineral spirits to remove it. Exactly the result we desire at our panel edges and rivet perimeters.
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Old 09-28-2013, 12:01 PM   #1703
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From your experience, does Corrosion X hold up to normal trailer washings?
See post above about Corrosion X HD . Also don't know about every body else, but at every Filiform spot found, no matter how small, I scratch the vein with a needle in a small spot, apply and let soak the corrosion x. Wipe clean with a dry rag and then seal with my choice of clear coat. In my mind, I've sealed the Filiform spot with a minute amount of corrosion x inside. To date, no advance of corrosion at repaired areas.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:02 AM   #1704
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JamuJoe, not tying to speak for Bob, but regular washing I'll not prevent it. It will be a part of effective control. If your trailer has one inch of clear coat skinned off from, let's say, a molded panel edge and you spend a few days in the salt film of a windy salt water beach you are going to see Filiform from that area in the very near future. If you wash the trailer when home, probably too late (with filiform, don't know if anyone knows a timeline of exposure to cause/effect) Rinsing every day while in the highly corrosive environment would help, but no guarantee to prevent. Corrosion X stops it, so would prevent it if present. I bet "Corrosion Block" would work also--I've used in in marine environment. To answer an other question also, the thinner Corrosion X in the RED bottle or can is great for the first application. If you switch to the blue/green spray can of "Corrosion X HD" for future applications, it is much thicker "HD", so in the seams and rivet edges it remains in place through rain, washes, etc. If HD is not wiped of after a few days it gets to where it requires mineral spirits to remove it. Exactly the result we desire at our panel edges and rivet perimeters.
We're in agreement, Howard. I wrote "inhibit", not prevent. Regular cleaning and sealing will INHIBIT corrosion. Damaged clear coat must be repaired. Fortunately, I do store in low humidity here in Durango, and the only filliform that I've seen was around the ill-fitting non-gasketed clearance lights after an extended coastal trip. (Airstream corrected that damage and upgraded the castings, even though it was out of warranty). Corrosion X is good in problem areas. One could just spray the whole trailer with the blue HD, tow through some of my favorite sites in Utah, and have the first adobe Airstream.

Good dialog!

JamuJoe
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:38 AM   #1705
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We're in agreement, Howard. I wrote "inhibit", not prevent. Regular cleaning and sealing will INHIBIT corrosion. Damaged clear coat must be repaired. Fortunately, I do store in low humidity here in Durango, and the only filliform that I've seen was around the ill-fitting non-gasketed clearance lights after an extended coastal trip. (Airstream corrected that damage and upgraded the castings, even though it was out of warranty). Corrosion X is good in problem areas. One could just spray the whole trailer with the blue HD, tow through some of my favorite sites in Utah, and have the first adobe Airstream.

Good dialog!

JamuJoe
Correct, probably should not use the word prevent at all when talking about corrosion of aluminum. Given enough time even the clear coat will fail. Anodized, maybe? Durango, you lucky dog. We're in Santa Fe, NM now; up to the mountains most every day.
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Old 09-29-2013, 08:52 AM   #1706
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See post above about Corrosion X HD . Also don't know about every body else, but at every Filiform spot found, no matter how small, I scratch the vein with a needle in a small spot, apply and let soak the corrosion x. Wipe clean with a dry rag and then seal with my choice of clear coat. In my mind, I've sealed the Filiform spot with a minute amount of corrosion x inside. To date, no advance of corrosion at repaired areas.
We are very close in our methods...

I use a (pet),dental scaling tool to remove COMPLETELY, clean with mineral spirits, dry thoroughly and seal with brush-on clear.
By using a quality clear the progression has stopped for me, (trial & error on that one).

On the larger areas I've feathered, painted,(no perfect match found as of yet), clearcoat and sealed. I use a paint sealer,(Griot's), once a year on the entire AS.

Again....can't stress enough, it's not so much what your doing, it's that your doing it.

Bob
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Old 09-29-2013, 09:38 AM   #1707
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We are very close in our methods...

I use a (pet),dental scaling tool to remove COMPLETELY, clean with mineral spirits, dry thoroughly and seal with brush-on clear.
By using a quality clear the progression has stopped for me, (trial & error on that one).

On the larger areas I've feathered, painted,(no perfect match found as of yet), clearcoat and sealed. I use a paint sealer,(Griot's), once a year on the entire AS.

Again....can't stress enough, it's not so much what your doing, it's that your doing it.

Bob
Good advice. Quarterly I add the step of applying CorrosionX as a preventive measure to reach and protect areas, such as the punched hole under rivet heads that a sealer cannot, as well as extra protection for all unfinished metal.
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Old 10-04-2013, 12:29 PM   #1708
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Hello Interstate....I am new to this forum, so not sure how to contact you...
I am looking for people in California with newer Airstreams who are having this corrosion issue. I have some very interesting information concerning this problem. Particularly if you purchased the trailer in California. Please contact me at 760-470-1000.
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