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Old 09-25-2013, 11:48 AM   #1667
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Thank you for your comment. I guess I will try it out too. No idea if it will do any good, because there is no "control" test with two trailers in identical situations, one with and one without the scratch pen clear coat repair system being used on it. That is always a big issue with one off testing. You never know if the success (if you seem to have it) is because of what you did or if the problem would not have shown up on your unit had you done nothing at all. One can report failure though.
Unfortunately my testing conditions are severe as I live on the coast of the North Atlantic. So if it works for me it should work for anyone. I'll update the thread in the spring regarding how the Costco clear coat pens made out.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:11 PM   #1668
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Galvanic corrosion needs dissimilar metals and a conductive fluid connecting the two to allow material transfer. An Airstream sitting in air does not have that.
A Airstream sitting in indoor air does not have that.
But with aluminum and dissimilar metals that are exposed to water in the form of rain or condensation or 80% or higher humidity this would qualify as a electrolyte (or conductive fluid).Which in turn would lead to galvanic corrosion I believe according to what I have read.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:18 PM   #1669
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Quality engineering and design requires an understanding of material compatibility. Galvanic corrosion (some times called dissimilar metal corrosion) is the process by which the materials in contact with each other oxidizes or corrodes. There are three conditions that must exist for galvanic corrosion to occur. First there must be two electrochemically dissimilar metals present. Second, there must be an electrically conductive path between the two metals. And third, there must be a conductive path for the metal ions to move from the more anodic metal to the more cathodic metal. If any one of these three conditions does not exist, galvanic corrosion will not occur. Often when design requires that dissimilar metals come in contact, the galvanic compatibility is managed by finishes and plating. The finishing and plating selected facilitate the dissimilar materials being in contact and protect the base materials from corrosion.
For harsh environments, such as outdoors, high humidity, and salt environments fall into this category. Typically there should be not more than 0.15 V difference in the "Anodic Index". For example; gold silver would have a difference of 0.15V being acceptable.
For normal environments, such as storage in warehouses or non-temperature and humidity controlled environments. Typically there should not be more than 0.25 V difference in the "Anodic Index".
For controlled environments, such that are temperature and humidity controlled, 0.50 V can be tolerated. Caution should be maintained when deciding for this application as humidity and temperature do vary from regions
METALLURGICAL CATEGORY
ANODIC INDEX (V)
Gold, solid and plated, Gold-platinum alloy
0.00
Rhodium plated on silver-plated copper
0.05
Silver, solid or plated; monel metal. High nickel-copper alloys
0.15
Nickel, solid or plated, titanium an s alloys, Monel
0.30
Copper, solid or plated; low brasses or bronzes; silver solder; German silvery high copper-nickel alloys; nickel-chromium alloys
0.35
Brass and bronzes
0.40
High brasses and bronzes
0.45
18% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels
0.50
Chromium plated; tin plated; 12% chromium type corrosion-resistant steels
0.60
Tin-plate; tin-lead solder
0.65
Lead, solid or plated; high lead alloys
0.70
Aluminum, wrought alloys of the 2000 Series
0.75
Iron, wrought, gray or malleable, plain carbon and low alloy steels
0.85
Aluminum, wrought alloys other than 2000 Series aluminum, cast alloys of the silicon type
0.90
Aluminum, cast alloys other than silicon type, cadmium, plated and chromate
0.95
Hot-dip-zinc plate; galvanized steel
1.20
Zinc, wrought; zinc-base die-casting alloys; zinc plated
1.25
Magnesium & magnesium-base alloys, cast or wrought
1.75
Beryllium
1.85
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:25 PM   #1670
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The sacrificial anode is a red herring, but this thread is very useful in providing various successful treatment and repair methods.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:35 PM   #1671
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The sacrificial anode is a red herring, but this thread is very useful in providing various successful treatment and repair methods.
So, all things considered, would the use of a sacrificial anode be completely pointless for someone in the sort of climate I have? It would definitely qualify as "harsh" according to the earlier post. We live at the edge of a salt marsh in hot, humid coastal South Carolina, and the Airstream is parked outside, probably about 30 feet from the edge of the marsh. If there is any chance at all that it would do some good, it certainly is an inexpensive item to try and I am assuming it could not hurt anything.

Comments?
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:52 PM   #1672
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It's a distraction from useful methods. Use it you want but don't depend on it.
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:18 PM   #1673
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doug
I am curious what knowledge or field of science are you basing your above statements on? Please elaborate.

The purpose of this thread is for discussing the corrosion problems for new Airstreams and it would be nice to know the cause is and not how to patch or repair this problem or spreading a paraffin wax all over a $45,000-$100,000 travel trailer.

I dont buy the "Its all how you maintain your Airstream or it only happens to people who live or travel next to the ocean story in regards to the corrosion issue.This may accellerate the corrosion but is definitely not the cause from what I see.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:15 PM   #1674
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I agree with Doug.

If anodes could be of any benefit in a "surface" situation to prevent corrosion then automakers would have taken that road instead of hot dip galvanizing and undercoating. Same for the aerospace industry.

The two stumbling blocks to getting the galvanic circuit flowing I see are the presence of protective coatings and the extremely low standing time in the electrolyte. It's just not wet enough for long enough. I would not worry about galvanic corrosion on an Airstream.
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:22 PM   #1675
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The hillbilly anti-corrosion method: Wire an anode, hang a bucket full of water off of the rear bumper, drop the anode into the bucket. Old lead sinkers work good.

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Old 09-25-2013, 02:29 PM   #1676
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Bob, I hate to ask this of you again, but I believe you have a past post with an Internet link that explains the different types of corrosions; Filiform, galvanic, etc. I think several of us, maybe most of us, are getting messed up on what types of corrosion and it's possible cause, we're dealing with in some of these issues. Filiform, we know we have; galvanic, it will show sooner or later also, but why and from what?. Electrolysis, and sacrificial zincs for an AL trailer sitting in air???

Thanks Howard
No problem Howard.

There are two good sites....

alumatter Click on the links on the left side.

Kennedy Space Center...

Bob
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Old 09-25-2013, 02:39 PM   #1677
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doug
I am curious what knowledge or field of science are you basing your above statements on? Please elaborate.

The purpose of this thread is for discussing the corrosion problems for new Airstreams and it would be nice to know the cause is and not how to patch or repair this problem or spreading a paraffin wax all over a $45,000-$100,000 travel trailer.

I dont buy the "Its all how you maintain your Airstream or it only happens to people who live or travel next to the ocean story in regards to the corrosion issue.This may accellerate the corrosion but is definitely not the cause from what I see.

The way I see it, some trailers get it, and some don't. It seems it comes down to 2 things, enviroment and upkeep.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:25 PM   #1678
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The way I see it, some trailers get it, and some don't. It seems it comes down to 2 things, enviroment and upkeep.
Exactly.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:31 PM   #1679
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Especially when there is salt present, either through roads or coastal environments.

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Old 09-25-2013, 03:43 PM   #1680
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Especially when there is salt present, either through roads or coastal environments.

Poppy
That's why we need a barrier between the exposed metal edges, rivet holes, fittings and the environment.

I know of nothing better than Corrosion X or Boeshield T9, applied often enough to maintain the barrier. It's an easy measure to do, and at least somewhat effective.

That does not preclude the need to wash the trailer after exposure.
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