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Old 06-05-2016, 08:02 AM   #2341
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The other products you mention probably lack an organic coating and therefore will not be able to form filiform corrosion. But, they will be more susceptible to the other forms of corrosion since they are not coated. These other forms of corrosion are a "naturally occurring process", a phrase that is a conditioned response from the AS workers. Filiform corrosion is also a "naturally occurring process" but in this case, from a man-made defect caused by unfinished edges and holes; re-coated the man-made damage at the factory where the damage is created and most of the filiform problem would probably go away..this should have been a naturally occurring common sense responsible care solution.
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Old 06-05-2016, 08:11 AM   #2342
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Yes, no coating, no filiform. There are good tips in this thread to prevent or minimize filiform, and treat and/or paint areas affected.

A comment about Airstream factory "dragging panels across the floor". That's true, but two workers, one on each end, "drag" them upright from one assembly point to another close by, the panels' already cut edge contacts the factory floor, not the coated panel flat field.
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Old 06-05-2016, 09:55 AM   #2343
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Pictures of AS plates

There are many internet sites that discuss filiform and show examples. Just to drive it home, I thought that some might be interested in an actual AS example. But perhaps more importantly, this allowed me to try out my new Olympus TG-4 in it's microscope mode!

The 2 attached files show the face and edge of a small plate of the material actually used by AS that was subjected to an ASTM filiform corrosion test. That is filiform on the face. The edge on this example shows no corrosion ("standard corrosion") but you can just make out the filiform on the top projecting out on the face. At this scale you really don't see the organic coating.

What we are trying to protect is that very thin region consisting of the edge line between the bottom of the organic coating (that you don't really see in this image) and the top of the metal. At a minimum, we want to make sure that we don't weaken it. I think that the best solution is for the edge (and punch holes) to be recoated at the factory before it is attached to the trailer.
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Old 06-05-2016, 04:59 PM   #2344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCabin View Post
There are many internet sites that discuss filiform and show examples. Just to drive it home, I thought that some might be interested in an actual AS example. But perhaps more importantly, this allowed me to try out my new Olympus TG-4 in it's microscope mode!

The 2 attached files show the face and edge of a small plate of the material actually used by AS that was subjected to an ASTM filiform corrosion test. That is filiform on the face. The edge on this example shows no corrosion ("standard corrosion") but you can just make out the filiform on the top projecting out on the face. At this scale you really don't see the organic coating.

What we are trying to protect is that very thin region consisting of the edge line between the bottom of the organic coating (that you don't really see in this image) and the top of the metal. At a minimum, we want to make sure that we don't weaken it. I think that the best solution is for the edge (and punch holes) to be recoated at the factory before it is attached to the trailer.
Great photo. You do know that you are preaching to the 'Corrosion problems with new Airstreams" choir. Back a ways in this thread, several posts question why Airstream does not seal these raw edges. I don't know how much extra $$ edge and hole treatment would cost, but it sure would correct most problems.
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Old 06-05-2016, 07:30 PM   #2345
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I've got it too. Mostly around the tail lights and hinges. Not awful, but have always wondered about it. I assumed it was due to outdoor storage. I am buying a new one, if it does it too, I am going to raise a stink. I didn't realize it was a common issue.
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:19 AM   #2346
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Shark Hide?

Has anyone used Shark Hide on their AS to prevent corrosion? I have used it on my boats and aluminum trailers that are used in saltwater and the wheels and running boards of my truck for about a year and it has completely stopped the rust and corrosion. The running boards would rust after one trip to the boat ramp before applying this product and now they don't. There are several potholes at the top of the ramp that fill up wit saltwater so everything gets wet.
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Old 06-07-2016, 06:47 AM   #2347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgibbs View Post
Has anyone used Shark Hide on their AS to prevent corrosion? I have used it on my boats and aluminum trailers that are used in saltwater and the wheels and running boards of my truck for about a year and it has completely stopped the rust and corrosion. The running boards would rust after one trip to the boat ramp before applying this product and now they don't. There are several potholes at the top of the ramp that fill up wit saltwater so everything gets wet.
I've never heard of this product before your post. According to the product video it may be a solution to the spreading of filiform corrosion. I'm anxious to hear if any others have used it.
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Old 06-07-2016, 08:03 AM   #2348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bgibbs View Post
Has anyone used Shark Hide on their AS to prevent corrosion? I have used it on my boats and aluminum trailers that are used in saltwater and the wheels and running boards of my truck for about a year and it has completely stopped the rust and corrosion. The running boards would rust after one trip to the boat ramp before applying this product and now they don't. There are several potholes at the top of the ramp that fill up wit saltwater so everything gets wet.
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I've never heard of this product before your post. According to the product video it may be a solution to the spreading of filiform corrosion. I'm anxious to hear if any others have used it.
I do believe it has been discussed.....



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Old 06-07-2016, 08:34 AM   #2349
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Thanks! Yes indeed, I see it has been discussed, thoroughly. And here I thought it was a brilliant new discovery that is the answer to all our filiform problems!
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Old 06-07-2016, 10:01 AM   #2350
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There is little new on the forums, just rehashes when it comes to corrosion issues.
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Old 07-03-2016, 10:15 AM   #2351
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I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
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Old 07-03-2016, 05:17 PM   #2352
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I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
The only way to be rid of this problem for good is to take them off, chemically strip them (that cheap clearcoat will flake right off) and polish them with aluminum polish.

Then, leave them uncoated. Do not clearcoat them. If you do, the corrosion will return.

If your corrosion on the aluminum isn't bad or deep consider yourself extremely lucky. Otherwise, you have to sand the corrosion off and it can be very difficult, deep, and stubborn.

It's best to catch this problem now. Much less work down the road.

Once they are polished, in the event they start to slightly tarnish (which will not be filiform or deep corrosion) you just have to wipe them with some more aluminum polish and it literally takes about 2 minutes a side. Then they look new again. Simple.

Here, read this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...-a-105590.html

Good luck, but really this is the only way to fix them and not have to worry about it happening again.
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Old 07-03-2016, 07:20 PM   #2353
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The big question is we just took delivery 1 July. I don't think there should be any form fill on a brand new trailer. The door handle is also bad. I will discuss with Bay Area Airstream after the holiday.




Quote:
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The only way to be rid of this problem for good is to take them off, chemically strip them (that cheap clearcoat will flake right off) and polish them with aluminum polish.

Then, leave them uncoated. Do not clearcoat them. If you do, the corrosion will return.

If your corrosion on the aluminum isn't bad or deep consider yourself extremely lucky. Otherwise, you have to sand the corrosion off and it can be very difficult, deep, and stubborn.

It's best to catch this problem now. Much less work down the road.

Once they are polished, in the event they start to slightly tarnish (which will not be filiform or deep corrosion) you just have to wipe them with some more aluminum polish and it literally takes about 2 minutes a side. Then they look new again. Simple.

Here, read this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...-a-105590.html

Good luck, but really this is the only way to fix them and not have to worry about it happening again.
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Old 07-04-2016, 10:39 AM   #2354
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
Here's my input:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142/corrosion-problems-with-new-airstreams-31743-136.html#post1450224
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Old 08-13-2016, 10:43 PM   #2355
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Thanks Howard L....That's exactly what I thought would be my aporoach but hearing domeone else having success with it helps grestly....I truly appreciate it.
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Old 08-14-2016, 05:21 AM   #2356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
I have a brand new 2015 FC 23D and the tail light AL blocks have lots of white spots/small lines. Recommendations?
Remove clear coat....

Had to do the same on our Classic battery door frames...wet sand 800 to 1500, then seal it it once a year.



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Old 11-07-2016, 07:09 PM   #2357
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Who out there has a newer Airstream (say from 2001 through the current model year) that has the dreaded white spider veins AKA: form fill corrosion?

I know that Dmac had this and I do recall others saying they their shells had issues. I'm wondering now how widespread this issue may be. IMHO, this issue started on my trailer back in spring of 2005. The factory replaced all 4 of my rims and both cast alum tail lights. Not only has the corrosion come back on all 4 rims and both cast alum tail lights, but it now appears to be all over the body on both the exterior alum skins and the outside door trims.

A conversation with support in Jackson Center suggested that I lightly sand down the spots and apply clear fingernail polish to it. Do you know how bad my Safari would look after that given all the locations where this is??!!?? Asked what they felt was causing this because others also have seen this and I got no response.

You can view pictures here:

Airstream Issue

If there are a number of us out there, perhaps it's time we grouped together. I can't believe a $50k RV (and in some cases, a heck of a lot more) is doing this at only 1.5 years old and is 10x worse now a 3.5 years old. Anyone know how to start a class action if there are enough of us??

South Texas here. I have a 2004 classic and has filliform plus the rims and door trim. It does effect the skin.
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:13 PM   #2358
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Remove clear coat....



Had to do the same on our Classic battery door frames...wet sand 800 to 1500, then seal it it once a year.







Bob


I used aircraft paint remover and it was a breeze removing the clear coat. Use the dremel brush to remove the corrosion and put clear coat on it.
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Old 11-08-2016, 09:51 AM   #2359
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Can someone more savvy than me,open a new filoform class-action suit discussion to see if we have enough interest for a suit?
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Old 11-08-2016, 08:00 PM   #2360
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I would not be surprised if they are fully aware of the problem and hoping nobody would bring a class action lawsuit suit against them.
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