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Old 09-24-2013, 12:04 PM   #1639
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
I have new cans of both Boeshield T-9 and Corrosion X. Which is the best to spray in the exterior aluminum panel seams?
I use CorrosionX on the shell and Boeshield for the underbody steel. Boesheld T9 leaves a protective paraffin wax protective coating, but when it dries looks awful and is real tough to clean off the shell surfaces.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:10 PM   #1640
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Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
A week after completion of the Classic base install for the filiform and leaking clearance light repair we sat through our first full blown heavy thunderstorm downpour last night. I did the caulking with Acryl R myself and was certain the job done would insure dryness. At first check this AM all lights looked great, but later a dime sized spot of condensation showed up in one yellow light. On much closer inspection, I found a spot, maybe 1/16 inch where caulk was missing between the lens and original plastic base--even in photo it's difficult to spot. Lesson learned: no matter who did the "fix" work, go over each light again with a strong flashlight to insure no bubbles or gaps in the caulk.

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Good advice Howard. Airstream Service Center installed my new Classic fixtures and a bubble opened about a 1/8" spot in the lens-to-base sealant. This was on the center upper amber light; they sealed those three all-around to allow drainage. That fixture was about half full of water when I noticed it.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:19 PM   #1641
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doug, how exactly do you apply and remove the corrosion X product...spray it on....let it sit? for how long? what is the best thing to wipe it off with? thanks

The boeshileld product seems self explanatory for use on underbelly.
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:22 PM   #1642
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I will admit that I have not read all 117 pages of posts on this thread, but has anyone used the Dupont "Pro-Fusion color Scratch Repair Stick" to cover the cut edges of the aluminum where the corrosion seems to start.

They are available in packs of 3 for about $12 at Costco, and are listed as a clear coat scratch repair system. I was wondering if they might be a good way to seal the visible cut edges on my new 2014 FC 20. The ones I have in mind are around the panel which has the rear window in it. It looks to be cut out of a sheet of metal and just riveted in place on the surface of the rear segments. The cut edges are exposed.

If not, what does the group recommend for those edges?
No, but that sounds interesting...others on here have used clearcoat in a liquid form and carefully painted it on to these edges as a preventative measure...I will be doing some version of this...perhaps this "stick" would be even easier? ill have to look into it. wonder how many of these it would take to hit all cut edges....?
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:26 PM   #1643
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I've learned over time there is no preventing condensation in the clearance lights here on the lake in WNY. I need a small vent hole on the bottom of the lens, a low humidity warm sunny day or a couple of hours of bulb warmth to get rid of it. (hence no LED's)
I've managed to get them sealed, they no longer fill with water in the rain, but a little condensation, no corrosion inside....what me worry?

Pharm & Guy's....why not try if you want to seal them air tight?

Bob
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Old 09-24-2013, 12:37 PM   #1644
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doug, how exactly do you apply and remove the corrosion X product...spray it on....let it sit? for how long? what is the best thing to wipe it off with? thanks

The boeshileld product seems self explanatory for use on underbelly.
It doesn't take much because the edges, rivets, scratches and dings are small. I just spray some in the cap and dab on a line of rivets and then the edge with a Q-Tip. Spray hinges, light frames, and fittings. Let it soak a few minutes and wipe off the excess gently. Probably good to do this before heading to the coast and wash as soon as possible when you get home (same day?). Not being near the beach, I treat it quarterly and so far, no trace of corrosion in two years.

Clear-coating the cut edges may help, but if not extremely careful it could be pretty hideous, especially in reflection of sunlight. You cannot reach the punched holes under the rivets this way, so still need regular anti-corrosion treatment for them and exterior fittings.
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Old 09-24-2013, 01:32 PM   #1645
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It's a 5 pound solid zinc anode. I think it will last a while.
I think the anode idea has some merit.Any pics of your installation?

I myself have noticed the filform is in areas where different metals are joined via dissimilar metal screws and bolts its as if there is some form electrolysis taking place. Could be created by all the electrical items in our aluminum trailers.And the aluminum body structure being mounted to steel frames without rubber isolators.

I have yet to see filform on aluminum body automobiles.Even the cars without clearcoat on bare aluminum such as a Kirkham cobra.Now I have seen filform on motorcycle engine cases where two aluminum parts are attached with steel bolts. Hmmmm
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Old 09-24-2013, 02:31 PM   #1646
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It can and does happen on aluminum automobiles...

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Old 09-24-2013, 04:20 PM   #1647
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It can and does happen on aluminum automobiles... Bob
Bob
I have seen salt corrosion on aluminum pieces on cars from coastal regions but that is different from filform.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:31 PM   #1648
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Interesting read

In the past, most vehicle panels were made of steel. Today, manufacturers use new metals and plastics to make vehicles lighter and more fuel-efficient. Aluminum, for example, is rapidly becoming standard on many vehicle lines, including Honda, Jaguar and Audi. You’ll find aluminum panels in roofs, hoods, doors, quarter panels, tailgates and fenders. Plastics, as used on the 2005 Corvette cowl panel, are also gaining popularity.

In addition, carmakers rely on new manufacturing techniques. Each weld on a vehicle adds weight. As a result, more manufacturers use adhesives to adhere panels to the vehicle body. These bonds are not only stronger than welds, in some cases they enable manufacturers to bond dissimilar metals. For example, the exterior of a door panel could be aluminum and the interior and framing could be magnesium.

This is important because although steel and aluminum have similar repair guidelines, they are “dissimilar” metals. They can’t come in contact with each other. If they do, and an electrolyte, such as water, is introduced, they will corrode at an accelerated rate. If replacing a windshield on an aluminum vehicle, do not use a steel tool. If the steel tool digs into the aluminum, it will transfer steel particles into the aluminum, causing it to corrode. If you use a tool on aluminum, never use it on steel, and vice versa. The exception to this rule is a stainless steel tool, appropriate for use on both types of metal.

The metals issue applies to quarter glasses, door glasses, vent windows and back glasses as well. On the 2007 Chevy Tahoe, the tailgate is aluminum. The quarter panels on Range Rovers are aluminum. If you’re working on an Audi with an aluminum door and you dig your steel tool into the door while replacing the glass, you can contaminate the door metal.

• Aluminum filiform corrosion occurs when the base metal is exposed to an electrolyte due to improper surface preparation. This type of corrosion looks like the paint is flaking off the metal. It’s white, chalky stuff. Many technicians think they can just wipe it off; that is not the case. This type of corrosion requires surface preparation similar to that of steel. • Aluminum galvanic corrosion occurs when two dissimilar metals come in contact with one another. If steel and aluminum make contact, the aluminum turns to white powder and the steel starts rusting. In a body shop, if an aluminum vehicle comes in and a technician must expose the bare metal, the vehicle is moved to a separate area away from the steel vehicles to reduce the risk of contamination.
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:34 PM   #1649
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I just finished reading (most) of this thread from start to finish. I may have missed it because I did fast forward a couple of times, but I never did find anything that would indicate that AS ever stepped up to remedy this problem for past production. Have they remedied it for current and future production? Have they successfully stonewalled the whole thing?

Pretty shameful if that's the case. I told my wife when I first started reading that it felt like I had seen this movie before and had an idea how it would end. The movie I saw featured Porsche watching 10% of 996's grenade due to intermediate shaft bearing failure and never stepping up.

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Old 09-24-2013, 05:09 PM   #1650
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Porsche did step up and replace thousands of expensive engines after numerous complaints around the world.It cost them millions.
Airstream has not changed their manufacturing process but now offers touch up clear coat pens,Boeshield spray and CorrosionX in the Airstream store for your maintenance pleasure.
Its more of a eyesore than a structural problem.If you are a anal retentive person like myself it will drive you nuts to look at.But Airstream is the finest trailer available so accept the mediocrity and move on.
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Old 09-24-2013, 05:11 PM   #1651
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The main difference between these two situations is that Porsche made partial restitution to many 996 owners due to a successful class action law suit. We are not so lucky.
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Old 09-24-2013, 06:16 PM   #1652
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I dunno. A lot of really nice 996's out there for cheap. Nice bodies, blown engines.

I don't know how much the AS problem would have bothered me. Probably quite a bit if I spent the big bucks for a new one and it happened right away. Don't really have a horse in this race.

Fortunately never owned a 996 either - I'm a vintage air cooled type. Current license plate on my P-car is H20ONO.

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