Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 09-15-2013, 07:30 AM   #1597
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by GettinAway View Post
Just got back from a week in Colo (Rocky Mtn Natl Park) rain, rain, rain.
I've had the lights upgraded to the bigger base. (The guys from the plant came out to St Louis to put them on.) however, I noticed water dripping in under the rear window.. Ughhh! Well, I've checked the seal around the window, it looks good. My guess is it's coming in under the new light bases.. Do I need to take them off and apply caulk, or just try a simple fix with caulk/sealing around the base of the light?
..
Thanks for the report, I remember your post of the JC guys coming to Saint Louis to do the work. The company's instructions call for the new bases to be installed and then the Acryl r to be applied after, making sure the caulk is rubbed in to the seams of each part and cleaned off. My 30 FC is at the dealer and they are to install the Classic base and do the work Monday or Tue. I've thought about asking them to apply the caulk first and then press each part in place (then clean off the excess that oozes out around the edges). I think I'll go down there in the morning and talk to them about that process before they start. If caulked first then pressed together (if it's done well and carefully) that should insure a complete seal. I guess you would play hell getting them back off, ie. to replace a light, but the seal should be most important, right? Only problem I see is that the Acryl R is a mess to work with. I've done some small repair work with it and it's tough to get off where you don't want it, and I just don't know any solvent, safe to use, that will clean up the overage and not start to work on the clear coat. Bob, Doug, Gene, anybody, any ideas on this for Getting Away and me.
__________________

__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 08:02 AM   #1598
Rivet Master
 
SuperTrouper's Avatar
 
2008 27' International CCD FB
Petaluma , California
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 596
Images: 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post

Thanks for the report, I remember your post of the JC guys coming to Saint Louis to do the work. The company's instructions call for the new bases to be installed and then the Acryl r to be applied after, making sure the caulk is rubbed in to the seams of each part and cleaned off. My 30 FC is at the dealer and they are to install the Classic base and do the work Monday or Tue. I've thought about asking them to apply the caulk first and then press each part in place (then clean off the excess that oozes out around the edges). I think I'll go down there in the morning and talk to them about that process before they start. If caulked first then pressed together (if it's done well and carefully) that should insure a complete seal. I guess you would play hell getting them back off, ie. to replace a light, but the seal should be most important, right? Only problem I see is that the Acryl R is a mess to work with. I've done some small repair work with it and it's tough to get off where you don't want it, and I just don't know any solvent, safe to use, that will clean up the overage and not start to work on the clear coat. Bob, Doug, Gene, anybody, any ideas on this for Getting Away and me.
This is what I use http://www.malcoautomotive.com/A___L...r-details.aspx Cosmoline remover with good results for all sealants so far including Acryl-R Parbond and Trempro. As per the out of doors mart video:
http://odmrv.net/Parbond/Parbond.php
__________________

__________________
SuperTrouper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 08:15 AM   #1599
Rivet Master
 
dkottum's Avatar
 
2012 25' Flying Cloud
Battle Lake , Minnesota
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 7,610
Airstream Service at Jackson Center replaced my FC lights with the Classic style fixtures because 7 of the 11 originals had moisture in them, and tiny indications of corrosion starting.

They used Acryl-R with the applicator to seal both the aluminum base to the shell, and the colored lens to the aluminum base. On 8 of the fixtures they left the bottom side of the base-to-shell junction open to drain, no sealant. On the 3 fixtures on the top aft center they sealed all-around.

This has worked well except one of the top aft center fixtures (that are sealed all-around) had an air bubble in the Acryl-R that popped and created a place for water to enter the lens-to-base junction. Lots of water (the base was full and the lens half-full) found its way in, and as the entire fixture was sealed, it could not get out. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the base to let it out, another in the lens to let it ventilate to dry, and then sealed those holes. So far, so good in heavy rains lately.

Howard and anyone else, because of this experience I do recommend installing the Classic style fixtures and sealing them as done by Airstream Service as the best solution. Setting them into a bed of sealant would render them almost unremovable in the future, and leaks or fixture damage are always possible, not matter how good the technician. I believe sealing the perimeters as done by JC is best, with follow-up inspections by you to ensure they don't develop a leak.

A regular inspection, maintenance, and repair plan as mentioned by Howard is necessary to keep any equipment in good condition. Our Airstreams are no different.

doug
__________________
dkottum is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 08:41 AM   #1600
CLOUDSPLITTER Phone home
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,818
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Thanks for the report, I remember your post of the JC guys coming to Saint Louis to do the work. The company's instructions call for the new bases to be installed and then the Acryl r to be applied after, making sure the caulk is rubbed in to the seams of each part and cleaned off. My 30 FC is at the dealer and they are to install the Classic base and do the work Monday or Tue. I've thought about asking them to apply the caulk first and then press each part in place (then clean off the excess that oozes out around the edges). I think I'll go down there in the morning and talk to them about that process before they start. If caulked first then pressed together (if it's done well and carefully) that should insure a complete seal. I guess you would play hell getting them back off, ie. to replace a light, but the seal should be most important, right? Only problem I see is that the Acryl R is a mess to work with. I've done some small repair work with it and it's tough to get off where you don't want it, and I just don't know any solvent, safe to use, that will clean up the overage and not start to work on the clear coat. Bob, Doug, Gene, anybody, any ideas on this for Getting Away and me.
Howard,

Iv'e used the "R" in several areas on the AS, window frames etc. I'm not sooper sanitary, but have not had the occasion to clean any off.

WIWD.... apply a drop of "R" in some inconspicuous area, (down low behind segment protectors, high in roof), let it set-up for awhile. I would start with something like Prep-sol, I've used it many times on the AS clear with no damage.
I've also used BrakeKleen on the roof, no damage there either.
Have never had to resort to "carb cleaner" or acetone, two I would be a little leery of.

Stream Clean...

Bob
__________________
OOP's


ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 10:21 AM   #1601
Home of Vortex tuning
 
CDONA's Avatar
 
2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Spearfish , South Dakota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 504
Images: 9
On all these remove and replace clearance light fixtures, are the inside body panels removed to gain access to the lights' fasteners?
When I looked at mine, I couldn't find anything accessible.
__________________
"Chip Tank" is in Kingman Az.
CDONA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 10:35 AM   #1602
4 Rivet Member
 
Silverbee's Avatar
 
2015 28' Flying Cloud
2012 25' Flying Cloud
2007 20' Safari SE
Fuquay Varina , North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 358
Dremel wheel?

Quote:
Originally Posted by eheffa View Post
My tail lights were a mess of corrosion.

I took them off completely & attacked them with a belt sander then a finishing sander...







Clear coated them with Acrylic Spray.




Remounted them:


It was actually a pretty easy fix. I incidentally discovered that the original tail light assembly installation was letting in a lot of water so this was a good thing to do.


I remounted with lots of caulk backing and Acryl-R to finish the seams. This never seemed to fully set & remained tacky so had to clearcoat over the Acryl-R to eliminate the residual stickiness.


I also redid the grab handle by the door but forgot to take the 'before' pics. I did not remove the handle though - just used a Dremel wheel to remove the old corrosion & re-clear coat. Again, an easy fix setting my mind at ease a little more as to how I can deal with these cosmetic issues. These spots are fixable & not much more work than a wash & wax job.


-evan
Evan:

What Dremel wheel did you use on the handle? I need to attack that issue.
__________________
Silverbee is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 11:16 AM   #1603
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDONA View Post
On all these remove and replace clearance light fixtures, are the inside body panels removed to gain access to the lights' fasteners?
When I looked at mine, I couldn't find anything accessible.
No, they just cut wires as they come out the side and re-crimp new light wires. Be sure they don't stuff those connections back into the hull, if they come loose--difficult to recover the wires again. There is 3 inches of slack in the wires to allow enough pull-out to make the repair connection.
__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 11:22 AM   #1604
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbee View Post

Evan:

What Dremel wheel did you use on the handle? I need to attack that issue.
I think Evan used something bigger, but for small sanding repairs try these. The brown wheel is course, black is fine. I gave my Dremel to the dealer with a wheel attached to do any filiform work at the lights if needed during the Classic base installation. A wire brush will scratch too much.

Click image for larger version

Name:	image-2470305258.jpg
Views:	98
Size:	608.8 KB
ID:	195741
__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 11:33 AM   #1605
4 Rivet Member
 
Silverbee's Avatar
 
2015 28' Flying Cloud
2012 25' Flying Cloud
2007 20' Safari SE
Fuquay Varina , North Carolina
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 358
Thanks Howard-I suppose these sand down the handle and then polish with a polishing wheel. Other procedures? Any recommendation on the clearcoat?
__________________
Silverbee is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 11:36 AM   #1606
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by CDONA View Post
On all these remove and replace clearance light fixtures, are the inside body panels removed to gain access to the lights' fasteners?
When I looked at mine, I couldn't find anything accessible.
Looking at your question again, if you mean removal of the whole light fixture itself, the plastic lens snaps on via two different type connections. The newer lenses have a arrow shaped type of snap. It just pulls off its base by pulling and rocking. Two screws under that connect the base to the trailer skin. The Classic cast base just sits under that original base and the screws pull them both tight to the side. See some earlier posts for a visual. Sorry I think I misunderstood the question first reply.
__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 11:53 AM   #1607
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbee View Post
Thanks Howard-I suppose these sand down the handle and then polish with a polishing wheel. Other procedures? Any recommendation on the clearcoat?
Hopefully Evan will add details about his handle. I just taped off and sanded with 1000 then 2000 then 3000 black paper. I re clear coated with my favorite Nyalic but I'm finding as good as that stuff is, it stays pretty soft and it looks like it may wear off where it's rubbed all the time like that handle. I think some owners just leave it bare and polish it and the hinges from time to time. I'm going to try that if I end up taking the Nyalic off those high use areas.
__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 12:08 PM   #1608
CLOUDSPLITTER Phone home
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , WNY
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 10,818
Images: 1
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbee View Post
Thanks Howard-I suppose these sand down the handle and then polish with a polishing wheel. Other procedures? Any recommendation on the clearcoat?
Just taped around. Wet sanded, 600, 1000, 1500 grit. Polished with Griot's Metal Polish.
Seal with the paint sealer.
No clear needed, just touch-up when needed.

Used the same procedure on the battery door surrounds.

Bob
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSC07824.jpg
Views:	71
Size:	276.7 KB
ID:	195745   Click image for larger version

Name:	AFTER, WITH A LITTLE HELP.jpg
Views:	63
Size:	65.3 KB
ID:	195746  

__________________
OOP's


ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 12:11 PM   #1609
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post

Howard,

Iv'e used the "R" in several areas on the AS, window frames etc. I'm not sooper sanitary, but have not had the occasion to clean any off.

WIWD.... apply a drop of "R" in some inconspicuous area, (down low behind segment protectors, high in roof), let it set-up for awhile. I would start with something like Prep-sol, I've used it many times on the AS clear with no damage.
I've also used BrakeKleen on the roof, no damage there either.
Have never had to resort to "carb cleaner" or acetone, two I would be a little leery of.

Stream Clean...

Bob
Thanks Bob. I'll just go with that JC recommendation and redo here at home if seam coverage looks incomplete. Yes, probably damage the skin if you tried to remove after setting the bases on a bed of Acryl R. I've only used one caulk tougher than R and that's 3M 5200. You have to get the pry bars out to remove items set with that stuff.
__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2013, 12:24 PM   #1610
Rivet Master
 
Howard L.'s Avatar
 
2012 30' Flying Cloud
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 584
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post

Thanks Bob. I'll just go with that JC recommendation and redo here at home if seam coverage looks incomplete. Yes, probably damage the skin if you tried to remove after setting the bases on a bed of Acryl R. I've only used one caulk tougher than R and that's 3M 5200. You have to get the pry bars out to remove items set with that stuff.
Sorry Doug, was your suggestion not to install lights in a bed of R. Above response was meant for you.
__________________

__________________
Howard L. is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Stainless steel corrosion Dave-O Stoves, Ovens & Microwaves 21 04-05-2014 06:30 PM
How did you get into Airstreams & Airstreaming? 83Excella Our Community 102 03-15-2009 09:48 AM
Airstreams in winter?? Curtis-79MH Airstream Motorhome Forums 6 03-27-2006 12:58 PM
Black water problems Rob Waste Systems, Tanks & Totes 3 08-31-2002 07:34 PM
Ralph Lauren Vintage Airstreams ($150,000) Andy R General Interior Topics 0 02-22-2002 12:06 AM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by



Our Communities

Our communities encompass many different hobbies and interests, but each one is built on friendly, intelligent membership.

» More about our Communities

Automotive Communities

Our Automotive communities encompass many different makes and models. From U.S. domestics to European Saloons.

» More about our Automotive Communities

Marine Communities

Our Marine websites focus on Cruising and Sailing Vessels, including forums and the largest cruising Wiki project on the web today.

» More about our Marine Communities


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.