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Old 09-10-2013, 03:41 PM   #1583
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30 min coating those edges seems reasonable - I'm in - why not
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Old 09-10-2013, 09:51 PM   #1584
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I don't believe that pre-clearcoating all the seams,(rivets), would be time well spent. Not all seams and cut edges will be effected. I think you would be better served by waxing and or sealing the entire trailer.

Doug has more experience with the X and Beo products, but my take....
If you treated and left a significant amount on for an extended period, it would more likely make it much more difficult to remove when needed, with little or benefit over the recommended application

Bob
Hi,


WAX!!!!!
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Old 09-10-2013, 10:16 PM   #1585
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30 min coating those edges seems reasonable - I'm in - why not
That's really the point, it is easy to apply corrosion preventive products regularly and polish annually. Also a good chance to get a close look at the shell.

doug
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:37 AM   #1586
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Hi,


WAX!!!!!

Bob,

Igetit igetit....wax is a four letter werd.

But then again so is hitch, tire, battery, hensley, propride, anderson, TV, coffee and campfires.

Bob
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:51 PM   #1587
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Corrosion around clearance lights

I am looking at a 2013 28 Flying Cloud. The clearance lights have a rubber gasket under them but are the FC bases, not the Classic bases. My 2012 Eddie Bauer had the FC bases but no gaskets and are being replaced by the dealer. Should I have the bases replaced on the 2013 28 FC if I buy it even though they do have rubber gaskets under the bases???
Thanks for any input.
Rick
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:14 PM   #1588
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I am looking at a 2013 28 Flying Cloud. The clearance lights have a rubber gasket under them but are the FC bases, not the Classic bases. My 2012 Eddie Bauer had the FC bases but no gaskets and are being replaced by the dealer. Should I have the bases replaced on the 2013 28 FC if I buy it even though they do have rubber gaskets under the bases???
Thanks for any input.
Rick
FC lights with new larger rubber gaskets = no filiform, water in lights-yes probably. Classic bases properly installed & caulked per JC, no corrosion and no water. Plus, there is a earlier post noting the possibility of internal hull leak with the new rubber gasket lights. Don't think there is a final determination on that however.
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Old 09-11-2013, 01:27 PM   #1589
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Thanks. We will watch for water issues.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:10 PM   #1590
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Re the clearance light subject, FYI, I was at Jackson Center this week to have awnings installed on my 2012 FC. I ask them to check all my lights since one of them had condensation in it. They indicated I had the correct set-up, eg, the thicker gaskets between the bezel and the skin. They replaced the one with the moisture, and found one more with moisture. However I wasn't a candidate for the Classic bezel addition as a warranty fix. On the replaced lights, they used Acryl-R between the lens and the bezel, all the way around and suggested I do this on all the lights to prevent leaks when I returned home. We were leaving the next morning on a two week trip. If I found additional lights with moisture during the balance of the warranty period, my local dealer would replace them. Awnings turned out fine, enjoyed the stay at their courtesy park, and had a good plant tour. Also met several other AS owners during my two night stay.
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:09 PM   #1591
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There is a dealer in Eurgene, Oregon with a good reputation.

Gene
If anyone can get the spelling of that city right, it should be me. For the record, Eugene is not my official name—just Gene, even on my passport.

Modern "waxes" have polymers in them so the wax stays on for a year or more. I'm not sure they even have wax in them. We use a product from Griot's called One Step Sealant. It is a liquid, easy to apply, fairly easy to polish and lasts and lasts. Other companies also make similar products. Griot's can be easily found online.

About the end panels—when they are stretched and formed, what happens to the clear coat? Does that process compromise it?

Gene
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Old 09-14-2013, 01:29 PM   #1592
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If anyone can get the spelling of that city right, it should be me. For the record, Eugene is not my official name—just Gene, even on my passport.

Modern "waxes" have polymers in them so the wax stays on for a year or more. I'm not sure they even have wax in them. We use a product from Griot's called One Step Sealant. It is a liquid, easy to apply, fairly easy to polish and lasts and lasts. Other companies also make similar products. Griot's can be easily found online.

About the end panels—when they are stretched and formed, what happens to the clear coat? Does that process compromise it?

Gene
Do you think Alcoa clear coats before they form the rounded panels Gene? For some reason, I had the idea the clear was applied after they were formed. The formed end sections are thicker gage and surface not as smoothly polished. An equal amount of clear coat on a more grainier surface would not protect/seal the skin as well.
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Old 09-14-2013, 02:44 PM   #1593
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Howard, as I understand it, all the panels come from Alcoa as flat sheets with clear coat on them. Airstream does not clear coat the panels as they did years ago because they did not want to install a special room with protective gear for the workers as now required for applying coatings.

They do have a machine to stretch or compress and curve the upper corner panels just below the roof. I imagine they are stretched and not compressed, but I could be wrong. Although I once suggested they shot them out of bazookas at the old WW II bazooka factory across the street from the Airstream factory—and they landed at the factory door perfectly formed, I cannot prove that. I have taken the factory tour twice and did not see the forming machine either.

Either way, the clear coat would have to stretch and/or compress when formed. Some surfactants will stretch or compress and others will not. Some may tear, but it might be microscopic. They say at the factory the different look is because of the forming process' effect on the aluminum. Maybe the clear coat has something to do with it. It would be thinner or thicker and would presumably reflect light differently.

The post about the Bambi with the filiform upper corner panel says something, but there could be other reasons for the problem besides the forming process. I cannot remember seeing any similar reports of filifom ridden panels like that. Maybe someone else has seen them.

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Old 09-14-2013, 04:07 PM   #1594
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Question

You can really see the difference on the end panels in this photo.
I'm pretty sure the forming process is responsible for most of it.
I can't see it doing any good for the pre-coated panels as far as the filiform goes either.

Bob
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:57 PM   #1595
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Gene and Bob, if the end panels come coated from Alcoa and Airstream does the forming to the end cap shape, then seems to me that there is at least some stress on the clear coating and that would make those panels better candidates for a spot of filiform hear and there. I've noticed, as Bob, that there will be a spot of filiform web, very small, but there, right in the middle of an end panel ever now and then. You just don't seem to see that on the straight side panels. If the appropriate Alcoa Engineer ever gets in touch, I'll ask him these questions also.

The Bambi in Santa Fe, had those spots of corrosion real bad on one formed panel but they were on all the others also. Owner had no maintenance or upkeep program and had spent time on the East Coast shore. Proof of what has been said here:, if near the salt in any way, try to protect before you go and do a detailed job of washing, corrosion X, wax, etc when back home.

Something else, The Airstream clear coating of cast pieces, wheel well trim, door hinges, tail light units, is horrible. There is no reason for the almost instant break down of the coating on those parts. Even if you have a trailer that sits in the driveway in Reno, NV, those parts will need repair. I wish I knew how we could petition JC to at least improve that process.
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Old 09-15-2013, 06:58 AM   #1596
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Just got back from a week in Colo (Rocky Mtn Natl Park) rain, rain, rain.
I've had the lights upgraded to the bigger base. (The guys from the plant came out to St Louis to put them on.) however, I noticed water dripping in under the rear window.. Ughhh! Well, I've checked the seal around the window, it looks good. My guess is it's coming in under the new light bases.. Do I need to take them off and apply caulk, or just try a simple fix with caulk/sealing around the base of the light?
FYI, I've never seen rain that hard for that long. We ended up coming back early before the only road in and out (of the 3) washed out. Two going east, we already closed. Estes Park was really getting hammered. There were a few other AS in Moraine Park CG..
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