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Old 09-10-2013, 07:21 AM   #1569
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Originally Posted by Gene View Post
There is a dealer in Eurgene, Oregon with a good reputation.
Checking into my options, I did call the mentioned dealer. Leaking marker lights with corrosion is a warranty item and the lights get the bezel from the Classic. Knowing that, I left a message with customer service at JC. I will now have the prescribed repair.
Part of the problem was that my concern was the moisture where it shouldn't be. The rep told me they are sealed units and moisture should not cause any problems. Maybe I have too many years dealing with lighting on vehicles and motorcycles and my take is that over time, moisture is not a good thing with electrics. Thanks to the forum, I know that the real problem with the marker lights is the corrosion issue and knowing that, discovered that I have that problem also, which is a concern for Airstream. Their concern is apparent in the redesign of the light and the fix provided when it is brought in for repair under warranty. That doesn't do much to solve the problem if you are out of warranty.
Seeing class action lawsuit mentioned makes me wonder. Over many years I have received many notices of class action lawsuits. Sometimes I even get a check that usually is for less than $10. My take is the only winners in these lawsuits are the attorneys who rake in millions in legal fees while the actual victims get pennies. Just my two cents.

For the future it looks like part of the price for all the enjoyment the Flying Cloud will bring is to be on constant surveillance for the corrosion and deal with it as I can. My first investment will be in the Glare products and see what that does for protection of the finish. It's not like my motorcycle doesn't take constant care and feeding. Another thing that crosses my mind is that I doubt Airstream makes the only recreational trailer that has this problem. The aluminum finish just makes it obvious when it appears. Why do I think that the other manufacturers have the same issues but it goes unseen under the paint and gaudy graphics? Aluminum doesn't act different when Airstream buys it. So the choice is simple to me, I'd rather have the classic look of the Airstream than the option of pulling around a rolling billboard of scenic scenes and logos.
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Old 09-10-2013, 07:23 AM   #1570
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Thanks, Gene, for clearing the air... now, back to the caustic issues at hand, or on our beloved Airstream aluminum under the "modern" clear coat finishes... filiform corrosion...

It's a ...

Never ending story!
(The “bad hair day” lesion is gone, only its ghost is seen, along with a few diagonal scratches from a Dremel tool, which I quickly stopped using)

Speaking of the "ghost" in Bills Filiform corrosion article referenced here, I recontacted Alcoa yesterday. Talked to the engineer I had been directed to a month ago. He promised, this time, he would have an engineer from the Roll Division who deals with the panels and their coating get back to me. So maybe, possibly, hopefully and with some luck we might hear if there is a way to repair small areas that must be sanded then re-clear coated in a way that better matches Alcoa's skin look and color. Holding my breath--not.
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Old 09-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #1571
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I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:04 PM   #1572
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I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?
The part of the end caps, as well as the other panels, that are vulnerable is the cut panel edges. There is no clear coat on those edges, and the end caps have a rougher cut edge.

Walbernize probably will do little to protect those panel edges, add some CorrosionX to them as well as the rivets (because of the drilled holes behind them) and the fittings (light fixtures, door hardware, etc). Wash and retreat right after camping at the beach. Not a lot of work.

Walbernize is a trusted, old polish but next time you may look into a more modern and durable sealant. You still need the corrosion treatment product.

doug
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:23 PM   #1573
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The part of the end caps, as well as the other panels, that are vulnerable is the cut panel edges. There is no clear coat on those edges, and the end caps have a rougher cut edge.

Walbernize probably will do little to protect those panel edges, add some CorrosionX to them as well as the rivets (because of the drilled holes behind them) and the fittings (light fixtures, door hardware, etc). Wash and retreat right after camping at the beach. Not a lot of work.

Walbernize is a trusted, old polish but next time you may look into a more modern and durable sealant. You still need the corrosion treatment product.

doug
Doug. Do you have suggestions for a Walbernize replacement?

Also I've got a can of BioShield T6. Is that as effective as CorrosionX?
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:33 PM   #1574
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Originally Posted by interstateflyer View Post
I recently applied two coats of Walbernizer on the 2013 International 19 that we purchased at the end of February.

I noticed before I started that the side panels seemed to have a very apparent layer of clear coat. They were very shiny and smooth to the touch. In contrast, the front and rear top/top side caps reflected much less light and were coarse to the touch. They also appear to have a more open "grain".

I'm wondering if this condition will leave the caps more vulnerable to corrosion and if so what can be done to fortify these areas?
The difference in appearance/touch is because the end caps are press formed causing a slightly duller surface.
I have found that the caps do appear to be more prone to random break-outs of filiform. Both ends of our Classic have areas of filiform nowhere near a cut edge.



Bob
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Old 09-10-2013, 12:37 PM   #1575
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I like the Glare product Airstream sells in their factory store and so do they. It won't bond if there is another polish on there, so wait for a few months or remove it. There are others I'm sure.

Boeshield T9 and CorrosionX are both effective, but Boeshield leaves a nasty residue of paraffin wax on the shell. I like CorrosionX (spray, dab, or wipe on and wipe off excess) on the shell and Boeshield T9 (spray it on liberally) for the underbody steel parts. 303 Aerospace UV protection is good for the seals and plastic parts, and protects and keeps the window seals from sticking to the glass.

Keep plenty of this stuff on hand and use it regularly, sure beats picking away at corrosion. It may not entirely prevent it but it's good stuff, and can stop small areas of filiform corrosion from spreading.

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Old 09-10-2013, 12:46 PM   #1576
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The difference in appearance/touch is because the end caps are press formed causing a slightly duller surface.
I have found that the caps do appear to be more prone to random break-outs of filiform. Both ends of our Classic have areas of filiform nowhere near a cut edge.

Bob
Bob, because the end panels are stretched to form the clear coat it may be thinner or broken? Also nicks and scratches are a starting point and need repair with clear acrylic touch-up, in addition to sealer polish. Easy enough to spray some CorrosionX on those panels and wipe off as well.

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Old 09-10-2013, 01:02 PM   #1577
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Doug,

No apparent nicks or scratches, those appeared back in 09. About dozen or so on both ends. Nothing more since.
I think, as you say, it's uneven clearcoat caused by the forming process.

"Cloudsplitter" is 10yrs old now, luckily not many new outbreaks, just a matter of keeping a close watch on the existing areas.

Still a shame for the new owners though.

Bob
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:12 PM   #1578
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Bob, the fact you have little filiform corrosion since 09 is a lesson to us all on the good maintenance you do. After two years (12 months on the road) we have none on the trailer, and it hasn't been hard to keep it up.

Yes it is a shame for the new owners. I wish we were given some maintenance schedules and instructions, but of course standards don't apply to all owners and locations. This has been a good thread on the subject, much info here.

doug
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:13 PM   #1579
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so corrosion X is a good idea to apply to all seams and areas where clearcoat may have been compromised? But also perhaps on the whole of the end caps? does this stuff come off easy after application? how do you clean off corrosion X spray?

Also, because we keep bringing it back up....is it safe to say that I should bug the dealer to have the classic bases (is that the proper term?) for the light fixtures...some seem conserned that even their fix is not idea....wonder if they could do this form me and at what cost?

Also, what of from day one treating the seams and areas highly susceptable with nyalac clear coat as has been recommended by some in this thread?

If I recall earlier, some disagreed with this....?

Also, when I am at the beach, seems like in theory, a good idea would be to apply some form of corrosion resistant treatment to prone areas and simply leave it on during your stay and clean it off when through? Oh but that would look like crap I suppose? I know, that is a crazy thought perhaps? I may also put plastic on my new couch at home for the life of it to keep in in good condition
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Old 09-10-2013, 01:29 PM   #1580
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I don't believe that pre-clearcoating all the seams,(rivets), would be time well spent. Not all seams and cut edges will be effected. I think you would be better served by waxing and or sealing the entire trailer.

Doug has more experience with the X and Beo products, but my take....
If you treated and left a significant amount on for an extended period, it would more likely make it much more difficult to remove when needed, with little or benefit over the recommended application

Bob
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Old 09-10-2013, 02:57 PM   #1581
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It was I, the guilty one, who suggested to PharmGeek the Nyalic treatment of edges on his new trailer. I never suggested treating the rivets that way. If exposed cut edges, especially the end caps, are gone over with any clear coat of choice, using a small artist touch up brush, when the trailer is new/delivered it will seal that AL edge. If during construction, which many of us believe to be the case, the edges are compromised by sliding on the floor, etc. the touch up of the edges will stop the corrosion that is going to start from there given only a little time. Like Bob said, not all edges will be effected, but who cares, treat them all and the edge that is missing it's Alcoa clear coat will be corrected before you find it via filiform. It took me 30 minutes to go over all edges.

I also believe the coating is either thinner or because the end caps have more grain they are prone to the corrosion sooner. Had a 04 bambi parked behind me in Santa Fe a few weeks ago. His right rear top cap was a solid filiform mess. Sides still OK.

Maybe the thought of taping off and re-spraying another clear coat on the rounded/formed end caps is not a bad idea. Would be a bit of work, but I'm trying to understand why it would hurt anything. Depending on the clear coat used, it would in all probability not be a perfect match with the sheen of the Alcoa coat. However if the complete panels were done, taped off, any difference would probably not be noticed. The Nyalic I use is a little shinier but since end caps are duller, the respray might help. Any thoughts ?
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Old 09-10-2013, 03:17 PM   #1582
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You can apply CorrosionX and wipe up the excess with little or no residue and still have good protection, from my experience. Boeshield T9 on the other hand leaves the paraffin wax when it dries and it is an awful mess; I don't use it on the shell but it's good on the underbody.

The problem with rivets is not the rivet, it's the hole that was drilled to put it there. That hole is under the rivet but it looks to me like the CorrosionX penetrates in there and protects against filiform starting and creeping out from under the rivet.

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