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Old 08-27-2013, 08:31 PM   #1513
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I am about to pour a concrete slab to park my 2010 27FB on. Why is this listed like it might be a bad thing?

Thanks
Brad
It's not....

I use these to keep from resting on wet pavement.


The orange Lego's also work...


Bob
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:36 AM   #1514
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Has anyone tried using sacrificial anodes on Airstreams?

Having owned a fiberglass boat in the past that had a lot of aluminum rails and poling platform on it I NEVER had any corrosion problems. The boat did have a sacrificial anode and when it would corrode to about 50%, I would replace it. This boat was stored on a lift and was about 8 feet above a saltwater canal for several years.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:41 AM   #1515
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Filiform is not related to galvanic corrosion.

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Old 08-28-2013, 12:50 PM   #1516
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Filiform is not related to galvanic corrosion.

Bob
Ignore this reply -my mistake - tried to delete.
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Old 08-28-2013, 03:24 PM   #1517
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Where do you buy sacrificial anodes?

Quote:
Originally Posted by sandhill3000 View Post
Has anyone tried using sacrificial anodes on Airstreams?

Having owned a fiberglass boat in the past that had a lot of aluminum rails and poling platform on it I NEVER had any corrosion problems. The boat did have a sacrificial anode and when it would corrode to about 50%, I would replace it. This boat was stored on a lift and was about 8 feet above a saltwater canal for several years.
And how do you install them? This would be for a house with stainless steel railings near a salt water canal. thank you. paula
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:01 PM   #1518
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I doubt an anode would work very well on a house.
They are found on boats that are used primarily in saltwater. The water acting as the electrolyte.

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Old 08-29-2013, 02:32 PM   #1519
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Nyalic can be used over bare aluminum or over paint as an extra clear coat protection. An earlier post showed where I clear coated over the bare metal after sanding off filiform that had started at a sheet edge and worked up to, in some places, the size of a quarter. The result of that work was filiform gone and new clear coat applied, but the metal is much darker looking than Alcoa skin. This last work is an attempt to match the Alcoa skin color after doing a surface repair.
Thanks Howard. I'm going to refinish the battery door frames, and I thought I would try this stuff unless someone else already has.

Toonbrite Aluminum & Fiberglass Cleaners Polishes and Clear Coat

When I finish the frames, I will test how well it works on a couple spots near a tear drop light. Sure would be nice to find a clear coat that matches reasonably well.
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Old 08-29-2013, 02:46 PM   #1520
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Thanks Howard. I'm going to refinish the battery door frames, and I thought I would try this stuff unless someone else already has.

Toonbrite Aluminum & Fiberglass Cleaners Polishes and Clear Coat

When I finish the frames, I will test how well it works on a couple spots near a tear drop light. Sure would be nice to find a clear coat that matches reasonably well.
I didn't use any clear on the battery frames. Just a good wax and sealer.

The clear is clear it's not the reason a match is hard, it's the brushed aluminum finish thats hard to duplicate.

This is our battery frame. Removed old clear and finished with wet sandpaper. Progressive from 600 to 1500 grit. Would have started with 400 if I had had it at the time.

Bob
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:13 PM   #1521
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sky View Post

Thanks Howard. I'm going to refinish the battery door frames, and I thought I would try this stuff unless someone else already has.

Toonbrite Aluminum & Fiberglass Cleaners Polishes and Clear Coat

When I finish the frames, I will test how well it works on a couple spots near a tear drop light. Sure would be nice to find a clear coat that matches reasonably well.
Great, the more we all try different fixes, the more likely someone will stumble onto a skin color match.. Robert has done good work with his silver paints without clear coat. No real reason to clear coat if the paint is there protecting the AL skin. In general, clear coat is always going to darken that to which it is applied to. Since a sanded bare metal spot shows darker than the Alcoa "brushed aluminum" factory finish, clear coat of any kind is not going to aid in matching. The Rust-oleum I used on the skin in my post above is a strikingly good match to the Alcoa skin finish. I tried brushing it on, but is so thin that that approach did not work. Spraying worked great, but the "overspray ring" is a problem. Going to try another spot again to see if I can sand the overspray away without cutting down into Alcoa's clear coat thus exposing a new area of raw skin. Let us know how your product works out.

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Old 08-29-2013, 05:52 PM   #1522
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Ahhh, so matching the factory surface texture is the hard part. Thanks, ill keep that in mind.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:11 PM   #1523
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I am about to pour a concrete slab to park my 2010 27FB on. Why is this listed like it might be a bad thing?

Thanks
Brad
I gather from reading all too many posts about tires and what they sit on, that at one time tires were negatively affected by concrete and dirt and gravel surfaces. I believe that to be no longer true or everyone with a concrete garage floor or driveway would have problems with their tires. Moisture in soil and masonry doesn't do tires a lot of good (though I don't see any evidence they hurt them either), so some people use plastic or wood to separate the tires from the surface. Can't hurt, but every winter I usually forget that and leave the trailer on a combination of dirt and gravel. After almost 4 years, no obvious problems with the tires.

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Old 08-31-2013, 09:01 PM   #1524
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post

I gather from reading all too many posts about tires and what they sit on, that at one time tires were negatively affected by concrete and dirt and gravel surfaces. I believe that to be no longer true or everyone with a concrete garage floor or driveway would have problems with their tires. Moisture in soil and masonry doesn't do tires a lot of good (though I don't see any evidence they hurt them either), so some people use plastic or wood to separate the tires from the surface. Can't hurt, but every winter I usually forget that and leave the trailer on a combination of dirt and gravel. After almost 4 years, no obvious problems with the tires.

Gene
Gene what I was told in a tire safety seminar was that the lime in the concrete leaches compounds from the tires, thus shortening their life. Supposedly the black mark left on the concrete by a tire that sits for a time on concrete is the evidence of the leaching process. Mine sit on concrete so I use cardboard to maintain the separation.

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Old 08-31-2013, 10:57 PM   #1525
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Hi, when I worked at the Ford dealer, we had an account with the Sheriff's department. They buy new cars by the hundreds and most/some of them sit on concrete for years without ever moving. They are rotated into use as needed. Not trailer tires, but rubber tires just the same, and sit for three or more years, on concrete without moving at all. My trailer sits on my concrete driveway, but gets used occasionally. If concrete has any effect, it can't be much.
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Old 09-01-2013, 05:15 AM   #1526
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"Dear Tire Doctor,

Can storing a vehicle on concrete effect the tires? Should I put barriers like plastic or other non-porous material under the tires? How about the effects of continuous storage for several days at a time with use between storage periods?

Thanks for your help on this subject."

Best Regards, Len



"Dear Len,

Thank you for contacting Bridgestone and allowing us to assist you.

First of all, regarding the effects of storage:

A cool, dry, sealed garage is your best condition for storage, however, it is realized that this is not often an available option. Concrete is not the tire enemy some people think it is.

We would recommend the following steps in storing a vehicle:

1. Make sure the floor / ground surface is free of any petroleum product contamination (Oil, grease, fuel, etc.) since petroleum products will attack rubber and can cause significant damage to compound characteristics.

2. Thoroughly clean your tires with soap and water.

3. Place a barrier such as plastic, cardboard, or plywood between the tires and the ground surface.

4. Cover your tires to block out direct sunlight and ultra violet rays.

5. Do not store the vehicle in close proximity to steam pipes, electrical generators or animal manure since these accelerate oxidation of the rubber.

6. Make sure your tires are fully inflated with air.

7. When the vehicle is ready to go back into service, inspect the tires for excessive cracking in both the sidewall and tread area and check all tire air pressures. Tires will normally lose about 2 PSI per month so you should expect to find the pressures lower than when you put the vehicle into storage. Re-inflate the tires to the correct air pressure before operation.

Now, about the effects of time:

Yes, rubber compound does slowly change over time, becoming "harder" as it ages. But unless we are talking years, this would be virtually undetectable. However; the most likely effect of storage will be:

1. Flat spotting of the tires from taking a 'set' while sitting in one position for an extended length of time. This 'set' may work itself out of the tires after being put back into operation, but not always. This, of course, would result in a vibration.

2. Tires have waxes and oils specially formulated to protect against ozone damage built into their rubber compounds. When the tire rotates and flexes, these waxes and oils are forced to the tire's surface and are thus able to protect the tire. When a tire is stationary, these waxes and oils are not coming to the surface and thus the tire is at greater risk of ozone damage.

3. Several days of non-use at a time is not nearly as detrimental to tires as long storage periods. The tires would still be operated often enough to avoid excessive 'set' and the waxes and oils are being forced to the tire's surface often enough to provide adequate protection against ozone."

Best regards,
The Tire Doctor


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