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Old 08-11-2013, 10:59 PM   #1485
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Marker lights on 25FB

I have a 2013 25FB Flying Cloud. My marker lights all have rubber gaskets separating the base of the light from the shell. The base of these fixtures is curved, the gaskets are straight, so the fixture does not fit snugly against the gasket (even where the shell is curved, the curve of the shell does not match the curve of the fixture).

Also, five of my lights have a gap between the colored lens and the base. Two of my lights have no visible gap, but have condensation inside.

I have two questions for the group

1) is it OK that the gasket doesn't fix tight to the base of the fixture? Or should I apply sealant on the upper edge (and which sealant)?
2) Do the bad fixtures have to be replaced or can they be repaired? How hard is it to replace/repair the bad fixtures? Simple enough to do it myself if I get AS to send me replacements?
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Old 08-11-2013, 11:14 PM   #1486
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Originally Posted by SSquared View Post
I have a 2013 25FB Flying Cloud. My marker lights all have rubber gaskets separating the base of the light from the shell. The base of these fixtures is curved, the gaskets are straight, so the fixture does not fit snugly against the gasket (even where the shell is curved, the curve of the shell does not match the curve of the fixture).

Also, five of my lights have a gap between the colored lens and the base. Two of my lights have no visible gap, but have condensation inside.

I have two questions for the group

1) is it OK that the gasket doesn't fix tight to the base of the fixture? Or should I apply sealant on the upper edge (and which sealant)?
2) Do the bad fixtures have to be replaced or can they be repaired? How hard is it to replace/repair the bad fixtures? Simple enough to do it myself if I get AS to send me replacements?
That's what I've been thinking, the 2010 - on LED clearance lights are troublesome, except for the Classic models, because of the curved frame bottom. They don't fit properly.

For that reason it would be good to replace them with the Classic LED fixtures, sealed at the lens and at the shell. Try to get Airstream to do it or authorize it if possible. If they are leaking you shouldn't have trouble, call Airstream Customer Service. However, sooner or later they are going to be back-ordered for the Classic fixtures, so it may take awhile.

doug
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:42 AM   #1487
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Sounds like the gasket shown in post above is what is now being used (except on Clascic) for the running lights. Also it doesn't sound as if there is Acrylic-R seal around the base of the light frame either. Is that correct S Squared--just the rubber showing under and along the curved bases sides?
Doug's been correct on this--double problem all along. To keep water out of the plastic LEDs everything has to be sealed with Acryl-R or something (that especially includes the LED plastic light after its snapped to its base). The best looking fix for the corrosion issue is the Classic cast base installed under the existing "cheap" light. If Classic light base is out of stock, then new style gaskets are next best bet.
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Old 08-12-2013, 08:55 AM   #1488
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Spot on assessment, Howard. Does the existing Flying Cloud LED lens/electrical assembly fit the Classic aluminum frame? I haven't seen that because Jackson Center Service threw my original leaking and corroding assemblies away.

doug
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:16 AM   #1489
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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Spot on assessment, Howard. Does the existing Flying Cloud LED lens/electrical assembly fit the Classic aluminum frame? I haven't seen that because Jackson Center Service threw my original leaking and corroding assemblies away.

doug
Haven't seen yet, but JC says all trailer lights are the same.. Only Classic model has the cast base that cradles the light and holds it's edges off the skin.. Classic bases and full caulking of lights on all models, would solve all problems.. It's a shame Thor has allowed a defect to continue to be a differentiating factor between models.
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Old 08-12-2013, 10:37 AM   #1490
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Howard

I agree, this is a case where penny-pinching will probably cost them more in repair and material costs than they save with those cheap plastic frames.

doug

On edit, probably not. They double-seal the Classic lens/frames on the assembly line, with the Sport/FC/Int'l they skip the sealing part.
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:46 AM   #1491
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Reading this is like being in crazy land.

Cars and trucks have been sealed with gaskets for generations and as gaskets improved, leaks have become very rare.

In the past couple of years Airstream has discovered gaskets. They have used them on the bottom fake chrome strip that goes around the trailer above the banana wrap and now on the courtesy lamps. But they use cheap gaskets or ones that don't quite fit, so the problems aren't really solved and recalls continue and reputation suffers.

This shouldn't surprise anyone who has followed this and other threads about poor QC and the use of cheap materials. It seems the RV industry in general uses out of date technology, poor quality materials and little QC. After this is an industry that took 50 years to discover you could have wheel bearings that didn't have to be repacked every year or two.

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Old 08-13-2013, 12:05 PM   #1492
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#3 of 2013, 27 EB
I tried to push the lens down on the housing, but not a snap fit. I put a bead of sealant called Lexel around the gap.
Adding it to the list of warranty work
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Old 08-13-2013, 12:56 PM   #1493
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wait...CDONA...if that unit has the new gasket that mine will have...I suppose it is perfectly possible that the seal as it comes will not be very good....or even poor?

Arg...nothing like "fixing" something only to find out the "fix" failed to fix...SMH

I guess we have not heard from enough folks with these new gaskets to know if it is not a good fix or not....but if perhaps not...I am going to but to get the classic fix discussed here..

If that is the case, as I understand...I just need them to use the classic unit bases and still can use the FC lenses and that should do the trick...correct?
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:07 PM   #1494
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PharmGeek (is that really your name?), Howard L. says the cast aluminum Classic frames will fit under your FC lenses and he's most probably correct. I don't know, but the Airstream Store in Jackson Center had all of this in stock last fall when we were there. Why don't you call them or Customer Service.

You don't have the corrosion issue because of the thicker gaskets, but I'll bet a dollar to a donut you will see moisture condensing inside the lens. The cure (for now) is the Classic frame sealed both at the shell-to-light frame, and at the light frame-to-lens, using Acryl-R with applicator. Airstream sells this sealant as well and is a good part of your tool kit anyway.

An alternative for moisture prevention may be to seal the standard plastic Sport/FC/Int'l light frame to the lens. I don't know if this would work and that is not how Airstream Service is fixing them. However, I would not be surprised to see filiform corrosion coming out from under the standard gaskets sometime in the future, starting where the light fixture mounting screws go into the shell. Every place this clear coat is cut, drilled, or scratched and left unprotected, is a place for filiform to start.

Yep, Airstream blew it on this LED fixture. We can bitch about or fix it, or both.

doug
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:14 PM   #1495
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My exovirtual name is Ellery

"We can bitch about or fix it, or both."

Both I think
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Old 08-13-2013, 02:17 PM   #1496
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My exovirtual name is Ellery

"We can bitch about or fix it, or both."

Both I think
I do both, but as I get older I don't have enough time left to waste too much of it.

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Old 08-13-2013, 03:11 PM   #1497
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Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Sounds like the gasket shown in post above is what is now being used (except on Clascic) for the running lights. Also it doesn't sound as if there is Acrylic-R seal around the base of the light frame either. Is that correct S Squared--just the rubber showing under and along the curved bases sides?
Doug's been correct on this--double problem all along. To keep water out of the plastic LEDs everything has to be sealed with Acryl-R or something (that especially includes the LED plastic light after its snapped to its base). The best looking fix for the corrosion issue is the Classic cast base installed under the existing "cheap" light. If Classic light base is out of stock, then new style gaskets are next best bet.

Howard,

In answer to your question, I see no evidence of any sealant applied anywhere on the lights: not between the body and the gasket, the gasket and the base, nor the base and the lens. That's on my 2013 Flying Cloud.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:33 PM   #1498
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RE: photo in post #1492. My 2014 FC 20 has that same gasket and marker light assembly. Last week, when in an all day 2.5 inch rainstorm on the east side of Glacier National Park a serious leak developed with water coming down in the center of one of the pano windows, dripping on the curtains and mattress. I was able to guide it to a cup, and over the course of the storm probably had 3 full cups of water come in.

I don't know for sure, but I suspect the marker light which is above the segment joint, the bottom of which is where the leak appeared above the window. Nothing else is obvious, although the seal between the flat front window and the pano is not what I would call outstandingly well done.

I have an appointment next week for warrantee service on the sealing. It will be interesting to see what they do. I will post what they do.

BTW, the upper clearance lights on mine sit much higher off the metal (with the gasket) than the lower clearance lights. The curve of the metal is quiet different. There is no evidence of any sealant on the lights at all, top or bottom ones, or top or bottom of the lights themselves.
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