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Old 08-30-2014, 09:19 PM   #2121
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Roof panels are painted white by Alcoa. They get sheared and have exposed or raw edges too. Has anyone seen filliform migrate it way under the white paint made noticeable by the swelling "mole ridges" under the paint ?

David, much of the Filiform will send out a squiggle or two and stop. You would never see that under the top paint. Also, I'm trying to remember so not sure, isn't every panel edge on the top completely caulked? Ie., no edges for corrosion to start at?


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Old 03-18-2015, 05:14 PM   #2122
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salt and aluminum

I have read this entire thread from start to finish, someone else has already said it was not a easy thing to do. I have also read the other numerous threads on the subject. Salt, rather from winter delivery to the dealer, camping at the beach, or winter vacationing in snow and ice, salt might be something to consider. My email to Salt-Away and their response follow. In one of their 6 attachments, somewhere, Salt-Away explains the relationship between salt, humidity, oxygen and corrosion.


---- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 11:02 AM
Subject: Salt-Away and aluminum


My question is what effect Salt-Away might have on aluminum? Airstream travel trailers are constructed of aluminum and many of them develop filiform corrosion. This corrosion appears as very unsightly discolorations to the aluminum exterior skin. Salt and humidity are two of probably several conditions and chemicals that start filiform corrosion. Those of us that live near the coast or in northern areas where salt is used on the roadways might benefit from your product. Problem is we don't want to put something on our aluminum trailers that would do more damage the the salt already does.


Thank you very much for your time
Kenneth Tipton


On 3/18/15 2:49 PM, Sales at Salt-Away wrote:
Hello Kenneth,
Thank you for your message and for your question about Salt-Away on aluminum.


When we developed Salt-Away some 20 years ago, we were very aware about the affects of chemicals on metals, specifically soft metals such as aluminum. The product was first designed to be used to flush salt out of the engine of salt water boats. Part of the construction of those engines is made of aluminum. Many boat trailers are made of aluminum. And we also wanted our product to be safe for aircraft, aluminum Bass boats, recreational vehicles and other common products made of aluminum; air conditioners, window frames, bicycles, etc.


To accomplish this, our specifications for the chemist who designed the formula included, among other things, safe usage on all the soft metals; aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, foil, gold, and other alloyed metals. The end result of the formula for Salt-Away, became a water-based product containing no acids. It is normally acids that scar soft metals and harder alloyed metals.


Our product cannot repair metal surfaces corroded or marked previous to its use. Salt-Away easily washes salt and other soluble contaminants from any surface without harm. For the first time application on your Airstream, we recommend making sure the entire trailer (and your towing vehicle) is completely sprayed and wet with the product. Do not rinse with fresh water. Allow it to air dry, then apply again soon with Salt-Away as before. We recommend not washing off the product each time you use it. For your 1st application, the reason to re-apply a second time, is there may be some accumulation of salt in all the junctures and connections, seams and other tight places. The initial application of Salt-Away can completely remove the salt from all the exterior broad surface areas, but any accumulated salt may have been wetted and soaked but still stuck in the tight places, and the second application can flush out those places.


The equipment required to apply Salt-Away to your vehicles is the Salt-Away Mixing Unit, a garden hose and a garden hose end sprayer. The Salt-Away Mixing Unit automatically dilutes the product to the recommended ratio (512:1), so there is no need to pre-dilute the product. The Mixing Unit is positioned in-line between the water hose and the hose end sprayer. A substitute method of applying Salt-Away if you are in an area where there are no water hoses, is with a compression pump sprayer (weed sprayer). The dilution ratio is 2 ounces of SA per gallon of water. Make sure the compression is high during its use. Pressure is required to allow gravity to cause rapid flow which is how the salt is removed.


Here is a link to our website Products pages. Reviewing the items may help you with your purchasing decisions.
http://www.saltawayproducts.com/Products.htm


If ordering online is not a problem, you can purchase Salt-Away through Amazon and eBay. Also, below is a list of other online suppliers.
www.theruststore.com
www.partman.com
www.westmarine.com
www.fisheriessupply.com
www.seamar.com
www.meltontackle.com
www.jmtackle.com
www.defender.com
www.reeldraggintackle.com
www.sandsharkanchor.com
www.thelongfin.com
www.yjbstore.com
www.backwaterbait.com


Attached are some documents that give detailed information about Salt-Away, its applications, methods of delivery, dilution ratios and other facts that may be useful to you. On Page 2 of the instructions for flushing boat engines, is a discussion on exterior washing, which would be the method of delivery for your application.


If you have any other questions, please contact us. How did you learn about Salt-Away?


Best regards,
Lenora Meister, President & CEO
Salt-Away Products, Inc.
3633 West MacArthur Blvd, Suite 412
Santa Ana, CA 92704
714-550-0987
888-725-8292
Admin@SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAway.xyz




----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2015 1:57 PM
Subject: Re: Salt-Away and aluminum



May I copy and paste your email below to a post here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f142...ams-31743.html
Thank you
Kenneth Tipton

Hi Kenneth,


You certainly may. Thank you so very much for asking our permission. It is very kind of you.


Best regards,
Lenora Meister, President & CEO
Salt-Away Products, Inc.
3633 West MacArthur Blvd, Suite 412
Santa Ana, CA 92704
714-550-0987
888-725-8292
Admin@SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAwayProducts.com
www.SaltAway.xyz
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Old 03-18-2015, 10:16 PM   #2123
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Question

Ken,

The question is not what effect the product will have on the aluminum.....but what effect it will have on the clear coat?

Don't you think if salt-away was any good Alcoa, Boeing, NASA and Airstream would be using/recommending it?

IMHO...whatever it costs, don't waste your money.

This is my salt-away, plenty of water plus a mild car wash soap, and a quality wax or paint sealer.

Sweet Streams

Bob
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Old 03-19-2015, 06:11 AM   #2124
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Bob, a simple common sense response to a complicated problem. You are most likely correct!! Peace,jim
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Old 03-19-2015, 08:35 AM   #2125
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Kenneth, it might be good to check with Salt Away to ask about the effect on our corrosion X (sitting in the seams and around the rivets) and our wax job also.

((8. Rinsing off equipment with fresh water before or after the Salt-Away treatment is not necessary. Leaving Salt-Away on the
equipment after the application will allow the solution to drizzle and drain into areas that stay wetter longer and where pooled salt is more likely to cause corrosion from the inside-out. Salt-Away permeates through hardened, accumulated salt and the corrosion inhibitors in the product become effective when the equipment is not in use.))

I and an awful lot of salt water boaters have used the stuff. I never came to a conclusion of whether it was of any more value than just a good rinse after use. However, in salt water boating, what could it hurt?

My main concern here is leaving the solution on the trailer. If it is strong enough to permeate hardened accumulated salt, what will it do to the clear coat, wax, etc.?

And Bob, what do you know about salt, running that go-fast hydrofoil around the Niagara River? Zebra mussels, yes; but salt?

Howard
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:48 AM   #2126
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[QUOTE=Howard
"And Bob, what do you know about salt, running that go-fast hydrofoil around the Niagara River? Zebra mussels, yes; but salt?"

Howard[/QUOTE]

Don't even mention it Howard....we got two itch's to scratch.
After this overly snowy Winter, Ice-out can't come soon enough.

Bob
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Old 03-19-2015, 12:06 PM   #2127
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Ops, forgot about Buffalo Winter --and with daughter still living there. Been gone so long I forget about salt anywhere but the Gulf of Mexico.

But there you have an old man's dream--Go slow Airstream and go fast boat.
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Old 06-14-2015, 09:55 AM   #2128
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I have a 2008 534 International with all the corrosion problems mentioned. The local AS guys in the UK suggest replacing panels or spraying with paint. Your thread is really interesting. Can someone pls give me the best proven solution to remedy the corrosion issues whilst maintaining the appearance. Thanks
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Old 06-15-2015, 09:47 AM   #2129
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If you've gone through the thread much, you see the basic solutions for helping to control the problem. There is mention of repair on small areas. That works pretty well, but even the silver spray touch up I've done, does not match perfectly and would not look good on large areas. Since your later model is not Alclad aluminum, thus not going to shine silver if stripped and polished, I would paint it if the corrosion was everywhere. Replacing panels would seem to be big $$$$$. Or, just drive on and forget it. Nothing structural with filiform.
Howard


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Old 06-17-2015, 09:28 AM   #2130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paddygwalker View Post
I have a 2008 534 International with all the corrosion problems mentioned. The local AS guys in the UK suggest replacing panels or spraying with paint. Your thread is really interesting. Can someone pls give me the best proven solution to remedy the corrosion issues whilst maintaining the appearance. Thanks
Good advice here.. Paddy... Would need to see pictures, at least, of your situation to try to help.

Replacing panels???? really?.. nah. I have removed the filiform corrosion, done my best to 'recondition' the surface to blend in to surrounding, then recoated with Nyalic. Get the 'kit'...
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:17 AM   #2131
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Hello CWF
Thanks for your response. I have copied photos below as requested. You will recognise where and type of corrosion I am sure. You mention get the kit etc but may need more spec as I will need to source from England, although I am sure my bro in Boston can help. Thanks again....Paddy
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Old 06-18-2015, 11:58 AM   #2132
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Originally Posted by Paddygwalker View Post
Hello CWF
Thanks for your response. I have copied photos below as requested. You will recognise where and type of corrosion I am sure. You mention get the kit etc but may need more spec as I will need to source from England, although I am sure my bro in Boston can help. Thanks again....Paddy
Paddy, I don't recognize that panel shown. Also, is that you're only problem area? A separate tray such as that can be painted silver very easily and look just fine.
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Old 06-18-2015, 07:43 PM   #2133
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I may have missed something.
Is it recommended to remove all of the AS decals to minimize filliform risk?
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:40 PM   #2134
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Here ya are, Paddy...
Nyalic®

The stuff appears to be used in UK..... So should be able to buy....
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Old 06-18-2015, 09:43 PM   #2135
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I may have missed something.
Is it recommended to remove all of the AS decals to minimize filliform risk?
Howdy!
I would remove stickers.... Carefully.... Be very careful as the underlying "clear protection coating" can be damaged.
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Old 06-18-2015, 10:43 PM   #2136
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Goo b gone, is it OK with clear coat?
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Old 06-19-2015, 06:58 AM   #2137
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Goo b gone, is it OK with clear coat?
On one spot it worked ok.. On another it gummed it up. The longer it sits the more likely to mess with the coat. Why are you wanting to use it?
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Old 06-19-2015, 08:40 AM   #2138
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Just want to gather w ha t I need to get the stickers off since I'll be working on it in a campground thus weekend
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Old 06-20-2015, 09:05 AM   #2139
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A sad day. 4 months from production. Last night I noticed the dreaded white, evil filliform rearing its ugly head from behind my curbside rear marker light.
As I looked around the rest of the lights I noticed that this light in particular seemed to be missing the gasket! So it looks compared to the other side.
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Old 06-20-2015, 12:51 PM   #2140
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further along o Father's Day weekend, Two things are obvious. 1 In my case the gasket was not adequately shaped and the plastic housing must have rubbed through the clearcoat slowing filiform to start. 2 each screw hole I've checked has the beginnings of filliform. Under the first lens the issue is aggravated by a metal bur from the screw hole.
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