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Old 08-24-2014, 12:09 PM   #2101
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Doug, the sealant you talk about at the panel edges, I take as the AcrylR used to seal the overlaying seams. On my trailer, there are some edges that are covered with the gray sealant-though not completely. Other edges look to be wiped completely clean. It was at the clean edges, even with the sealant showing, where the edge creeping Filiform started in several places.
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So, I can say with certainty my trailer edges were not treated. Plus, remember, Cust serv said they did not coat the edges. The rivets? There are just too many that show a thread or two of white squiggle to suggest any coating is applied prior to riveting. A corrosion X coated rivet would be the ticket there. Or a quick spritz of corrosion preventative at the holes prior to riveting would work.


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Old 08-24-2014, 12:25 PM   #2102
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Thanks Howard, I would agree it is an overlapping edge sealant rather than a protective treatment.
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:35 PM   #2103
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I am picking up a new airstream soon and have a question.

After applying corrosion-x to the edges, is it OK to wax with a sealant wax to help protect the edge or will the sealant wax remove the corrosion-x treatment?
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Old 08-24-2014, 12:58 PM   #2104
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Originally Posted by RVDreamer View Post
I am picking up a new airstream soon and have a question.



After applying corrosion-x to the edges, is it OK to wax with a sealant wax to help protect the edge or will the sealant wax remove the corrosion-x treatment?

Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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Old 08-24-2014, 03:56 PM   #2105
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Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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What product do you recommend for the clear coat?

Thanks!
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:25 PM   #2106
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Don the factory tour guide told me he uses liquid Turtle Wax on his Airstream.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:58 PM   #2107
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Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Doug's the corrosion x guy, but I don't think waxing will remove anything. I do recommend using a small touch up artist brush and run a thin covering of clear coat on every exposed panel edge first. Once dry then put on your corrosion X and wax.


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Followed your recommendation today and used Airstream Store's acrylic touchup pen (hard felt-like tip) to put two coats of acrylic on all the panel edges. Took less than an hour and I'm an old guy.

Will continue my quarterly treatment of CorrosionX to the panel edges, panel rivets, and exterior fittings and hinges. About an hour.

That gives us two layers of protection, plus an annual wax.
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:14 PM   #2108
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What product do you recommend for the clear coat?



Thanks!

RV, I use Nyalic. It's a clear liquid polymer. Google their web site to learn more. But, any clear coat will work. You are just making sure the raw edges are permanently coated and will not allow corrosion to start there and you only do this once. You then are looking for the corrosionX to soak in behind the rivets, belt line trim the seams and those same edges to further deter Filiform. That C X and whatever polish you want to use should then be part of maintenance on a regular basis.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:03 PM   #2109
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Airstream clear coat marker vs nylac? I think before you said you'd spray nylac into the spray top then pain on with small brushes as shown in photo?

Seems like the market would be easier?
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:12 PM   #2110
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For just a touch up or two and the edges, yes the marker would probably do fine. But, remember, I've done some larger areas of repair and those have been with spray. The spray can will provide you with the product to use both ways. Individual choice on product and application method, just get those edges done with something. Not everybody is lucky like M.Hony who has yet to see the first white squiggle.


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Old 08-25-2014, 12:46 PM   #2111
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For just a touch up or two and the edges, yes the marker would probably do fine. But, remember, I've done some larger areas of repair and those have been with spray. The spray can will provide you with the product to use both ways. Individual choice on product and application method, just get those edges done with something. Not everybody is lucky like M.Hony who has yet to see the first white squiggle.


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I bought an aerosol can of Nyalic to apply to the cast aluminum parts on my new trailer. Nyalic Tech support suggests a three step process for surface preparation.

1. Dupont Prep-Sol to remove wax and other contaminants.
2. Dawn detergent.
3. Denatured Alcohol (not isopropyl)

I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:20 PM   #2112
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I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?
Go to a bicycle shop and buy a can of Clean Streak. It removes any trace of wax or grease.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:45 PM   #2113
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I bought an aerosol can of Nyalic to apply to the cast aluminum parts on my new trailer. Nyalic Tech support suggests a three step process for surface preparation.



1. Dupont Prep-Sol to remove wax and other contaminants.

2. Dawn detergent.

3. Denatured Alcohol (not isopropyl)



I can't find Prep-Sol for sale to the public anywhere in the U.S. Has anyone used another product successfully for this step?

When I ordered the product, sales said just sand and clean real well. Prep sol was good to use but not necessary, so I've not. However, you are probably smart to follow all instructions you can. The product adheres well to everything I've applied it to. When I repair a small Filiform line, I lightly scratch the squiggle with a needle, dab some corrosion X in the area and let soak for a few minutes. Then I wipe clean with a dry clean rag and touch up with Nyalic right over the C X film that must still be there in the scratched squiggle. A minute amount of C X is sealed inside and the Nyalic adheres perfectly. But again, except in a case like that where you do not want the oil to be cleaned away, there is no such thing as over cleaning and prepping.

If you are applying to new cast pieces and no Filiform has formed yet, you don't need to sand the original clear coat away unless you want to. Just sand it lightly with 1000 grit, clean well and spray, or brush the Nyalic on. It will over-coat just fine.


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Old 08-28-2014, 01:00 PM   #2114
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I read this thread with interest. I wish Airstream would focus on building the best aluminum shell travel trailer possible. They are unique, an American icon, light weight, and beautifully finished inside. Most folks know them as long lasting trailers. Airstream designers are very good at luxury small space living. I agree with others that Airstream should have discovered this filliform corrosion problem during their pre-production testing. Further, they should have made a corrective action as soon as complaints from customers started coming in.

So Forum members have developed and shared filliform mitigation techniques that keep it in abeyance. And I have also read mitigation techniques against leaks and floor rot. OSB floors anyone? I submit metal frames should not crack or rust in this day and age. Why not use the best tail light housings and marker lights possible? I submit Airstream can improve the trailer so these problems are mostly eliminated.

Airstream should build a top line travel trailer that lasts 50 years. If the pricing of Airstreams was 10% higher, would customers not buy? We willingly pay a huge premium over SOBs to get Airstream "Cadillac" quality. Or is it "Bentley" quality. A 10% adder to materials and workmanship to elevate Airstream out of these complaints would be worth it in my opinion. Back up your progress with the best warranty in the industry.

You probably have heard about Yetti coolers. Here is a "bear proof" ice chest that cost nearly $300 for the small size. It will keep your beverage cool for a long time. It typifies a very high end product. Airstream should have that mindset in my view.

My 86 doesn't have filliform corrosion, but it doesn't have clear coat anymore either. It does have beautiful hickory cabinets that have stood up well through the years. And the drawers don't come open while towing. Those cabinets are what sold the trailer. Premium quality.

"We won't make changes, only improvements" says Wally Byum way back when. Good advice today.

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Old 08-28-2014, 01:32 PM   #2115
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I used the 3 step Nyalic prep suggested by Nyalic. Since Dupont Prep-Sol isn't sold the the public, I used Dupli-Color Prep-Spray from AutoZone.

I coated my door light hood, tail light castings, bumper and door hinges. It tended to run on the vertical surface of the tail light castings. I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner an tried a couple more times....still runny. Oh well...at least it is protected.
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Old 08-28-2014, 03:06 PM   #2116
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I read this thread with interest. I wish Airstream would focus on building the best aluminum shell travel trailer possible. They are unique, an American icon, light weight, and beautifully finished inside. Most folks know them as long lasting trailers. Airstream designers are very good at luxury small space living. I agree with others that Airstream should have discovered this filliform corrosion problem during their pre-production testing. Further, they should have made a corrective action as soon as complaints from customers started coming in.

So Forum members have developed and shared filliform mitigation techniques that keep it in abeyance. And I have also read mitigation techniques against leaks and floor rot. OSB floors anyone? I submit metal frames should not crack or rust in this day and age. Why not use the best tail light housings and marker lights possible? I submit Airstream can improve the trailer so these problems are mostly eliminated.

Airstream should build a top line travel trailer that lasts 50 years. If the pricing of Airstreams was 10% higher, would customers not buy? We willingly pay a huge premium over SOBs to get Airstream "Cadillac" quality. Or is it "Bentley" quality. A 10% adder to materials and workmanship to elevate Airstream out of these complaints would be worth it in my opinion. Back up your progress with the best warranty in the industry.

You probably have heard about Yetti coolers. Here is a "bear proof" ice chest that cost nearly $300 for the small size. It will keep your beverage cool for a long time. It typifies a very high end product. Airstream should have that mindset in my view.

My 86 doesn't have filliform corrosion, but it doesn't have clear coat anymore either. It does have beautiful hickory cabinets that have stood up well through the years. And the drawers don't come open while towing. Those cabinets are what sold the trailer. Premium quality.

"We won't make changes, only improvements" says Wally Byum way back when. Good advice today.

David
Very well said. I agree completely. Hope Airstream is listening to this thread.
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Old 08-28-2014, 06:32 PM   #2117
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I used the 3 step Nyalic prep suggested by Nyalic. Since Dupont Prep-Sol isn't sold the the public, I used Dupli-Color Prep-Spray from AutoZone.

I coated my door light hood, tail light castings, bumper and door hinges. It tended to run on the vertical surface of the tail light castings. I cleaned it off with lacquer thinner an tried a couple more times....still runny. Oh well...at least it is protected.

Sounds like you've been busy. Vertical is tough. Very thin and runny, as I guess you know. If you try again, you can sand the runs away once it cures--a month. Then use the old auto spray technique and shoot a very light "tack" coat. Make it very light, just a mist. Let dry till tacky and then do another, still light. The 3rd pass stay light, but you should be able to spray it on enough to get the liquid smooth shine you want. Secret is to let the tack coats get tacky so they hold the last coat in place.

Remember, this stuff is great against UV, salt, most everything in the environment. However, it's not very tough against some solvents like lacquer thinner, acetone, and even alcohol. So if you later use AcrylR or ParBond to re-caulk seams next to the Nyalic, you will probably mess it up as you use alcohol to clean up the caulk smears. If that ever happens, just smooth it out with sandpaper and re-spray. Company says alcohol should not bother it once it fully cures. Not so sure about that. Just keep it away if you can.


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Old 08-30-2014, 05:22 PM   #2118
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After post-warranty courtesy repair of the filliform corrosion around the lights on my 2011 FC223FB, I became diligent about using Corrosion X on the Airstream. To my dismay, after four months of open storage in FL this year while we were aboard our sailboat, I noticed early filliform on my aftermarket aluminum wheels! (I had replaced the OEM 14" wheels and GYM's with 15" wheels and Michelin LT's at 25,000 miles). I then began doing a wipe of the aluminum wheels with Corrosion X and it appears to have stopped the corrosion in it's tracks. Online research revealed that filliform corrosion of clear coated aluminum wheels is not uncommon. I should have used the Corrosion X on the wheels from new, especially when I was following the sage advice in the SW FL yachting community and using Corrosion X on my sailboat hardware and electronics. Great product - I only wish it could work on my right knee
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Old 08-30-2014, 05:38 PM   #2119
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AS Quality & Choices

Dennis, Good choice in the Leisure Van. That would also be my choice if we were to change to that class of RV. The Airstream suits our preferences at this time, though, as we like to camp remotely, unhitch and go adventuring with our Jeep GC. In 36,200 miles of travel with our 2011 FC23FB, I just haven't seen another travel trailer that really tempts me.

As to Airstream quality (which is really another topic thread) - I agree that it doesn't match the reputation. My standards are higher than accepting the corrosion issues which Airstream has not properly addressed in manufacturing. I won't defend Thor, they are just making a profit on this line like any other company does on their higher perceived value products. Nevertheless, I'll wipe with Corrosion X, do my maintenance, and accept the compliments that are quite common wherever we travel.

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I suspect that Airstream is considered a "halo brand" by Thor and after looking at an $80,000 AS, customers start looking at other Thor products in the under $40,000 category. And, I suspect that those Thor TT's actually contribute more to the bottom line than an AS. I've already passed on buying another AS product (bought a Leisure Van instead of an Interstate) and just smile when friends oh and ah over my 25 FB Safari guest accommodations. In my opinion AS ownership is almost a cult and I find it difficult to defend a manufacturer that knowingly sells a product that doesn't meet my standards of perceived value.


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Old 08-30-2014, 06:28 PM   #2120
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I thank r carl for his very interesting post on the changes to Airstream aluminum sheet through the years (post #2060). There is a relevant article in Airstream Life, Spring of 07 that further describes the Alcoa clear coating process. Thread participants have identified unprotected raw edges as the cause of filliform corrosion on the trailer panels, and application of Corrosion X stops it. Applying a clear sealer to these edges helps even more.

Roof panels are painted white by Alcoa. They get sheared and have exposed or raw edges too. Has anyone seen filliform migrate it way under the white paint made noticeable by the swelling "mole ridges" under the paint ?

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