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Old 07-21-2013, 10:24 AM   #1415
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I have contacted our dealer about this and asked them to check into replacement for us. See photos. Quite frankly, I don't understand why Jackson Center has not contacted all affected owners and advised them of the problem and offered replacement/repair. Thank goodness for this forum.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:12 AM   #1416
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The forum is handy, but if you see a problem call Airstream Customer Service and see what they can do. They have solved this for us as well as and other questions about our new Airstream.

doug k
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:43 AM   #1417
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I have a 2014 fc bunk on order for October - you think I will have a "problem" fixture as such?
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:46 AM   #1418
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2008 must have been one of the golden years of Airstream marker lamps. We've had no problems with ours (or with our vent pipes leaking at the roof, another common problem). I suspect Airstream went on another cost cutting binge and cheapened the lamps and now has to spend more money fixing the problem. Coat cutting has cost the company money many times in the past and will apparently do so as long as the present executives continue in power at Thor.

They only fix it for those who complain; if they notified everyone, it would cost even more. This way they may still come out ahead on net costs.

But, all the others with problems who don't know what to do will realize Airstream has problems and word of mouth will continue to injure the brand.

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Old 07-22-2013, 04:21 AM   #1419
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[QUOTE="They only fix it for those who complain[/QUOTE]

That's been my experience.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:14 AM   #1420
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This clearance light issue also affects 2010 models. I have a 25FB Flying Cloud and I was at Jackson Center for a few final warranty issues last October. I had already seen on AirForums that Airstream was providing the Classic cast aluminum bases for those models with filiform corrosion coming out from the lights. So, since I had filiform creeping out from a couple of lights, I added this issue to my warranty fix list. Airstream, without question, added the base to all of my lights and replaced a few of the lens that broke as they were being removed. The technician showed me that they just insert the lens through the base and reuse the lens, when possible, that was already there. The electric connection wasn't broken on the lens they reused. They just insert the lens through the base and reattach/caulk it. Airstream did not charge me for these parts or the work. I noticed the cast aluminum bases were in the store for around $20-$25 each. Also, I believe it is the same LED lens whether you have a Classic or Flying Cloud or International. Russ
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:30 AM   #1421
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luckyducks View Post
This clearance light issue also affects 2010 models. I have a 25FB Flying Cloud and I was at Jackson Center for a few final warranty issues last October. I had already seen on AirForums that Airstream was providing the Classic cast aluminum bases for those models with filiform corrosion coming out from the lights. So, since I had filiform creeping out from a couple of lights, I added this issue to my warranty fix list. Airstream, without question, added the base to all of my lights and replaced a few of the lens that broke as they were being removed. The technician showed me that they just insert the lens through the base and reuse the lens, when possible, that was already there. The electric connection wasn't broken on the lens they reused. They just insert the lens through the base and reattach/caulk it. Airstream did not charge me for these parts or the work. I noticed the cast aluminum bases were in the store for around $20-$25 each. Also, I believe it is the same LED lens whether you have a Classic or Flying Cloud or International. Russ
Thanks, Lucky. Helps me since I'll probably be settling up on what we will do with my 30 FC this week. Did JC caulk all areas Doug talked about, ie: the new classic base to the skin, the original base to the new classic base and then the plastic lens to it's original base? It appears if you don't caulk everything, you stop corrosion, but don't necessarily stop condensation.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:09 AM   #1422
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I have set up a date to have ours replaced. This is the latest email from Jackson Center:
Debbie,

Hello I will have the castings sent to Nature and Me RV to have them put on your trailer. The running lights that we use are the same on all of our trailers but we use these casting on the Classic trailer. That is the only difference on the running lights.
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:21 AM   #1423
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Russ and Howard. I wonder if the reason for corrosion coming out from under the 2010 clearance lights is a different issue.

That is, I think the 2010 lights are the earlier incandescent style where the frame did not contact the shell. The 2011/early 2012 uses a LED style with a curved base that does contact and rub the shell. I have had both, in a 2007 and a 2012 Airstream.

My 2012 LED lights corroded where the frame rubs through the clear coat. I think the frame does not rub on 2010-earlier models, but if not caulked water can initiate corrosion where the fixture mounting screws penetrate the shell, and spread out from under the fixture.

This can happen anywhere on the shell where the clear coat is drilled, cut, or scratched and their is no protection of sealant, seals, paint, wax, or (temporary) corrosion inhibitors.

For this reason I would caulk both the lens-to-frame and frame-to-shell junctions. (Note, for drainage Airstream Service Center did not caulk the bottom edge of my frames on the flat Classic fixtures mounted on the sides of the trailer, but caulked all the way around on the curved Classic fixtures near the roof where drainage is less practical.)

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Old 07-22-2013, 09:35 AM   #1424
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I had moisture inside 7 of 11 LED style fixtures. Even in the dry months of a southern Arizona winter, sitting in the sun, the moisture would not dry out. I think the lens and electrical base (these are separate from the frame) are a solid unit, but apparently not well sealed because they let water in, but would not dry out. There is a hole in the bottom of the fixture where the wires exit and that should be filled with sealant.

If you have moisture inside these LED assemblies, and you are getting frame replacements from Airstream, you ought to get a new lens/electrical base as well.

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Old 07-22-2013, 09:42 AM   #1425
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FYI, the clearance lights on the 2010s are LED. The interior lights are incandescent. In 2011 Airstream went to LED inside also.

When JC installed the new bases, they caulked everything - the base to the trailer and the lens to the new aluminum base.

Russ
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Old 07-22-2013, 09:47 AM   #1426
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Thanks for the clarity Russ, I looked at an early 2010 30' Airstream and it had incandescent clearance lights. Perhaps they switched during the model year, which is confusing but not unusual.

We can add 2010's to the "alert" if they have LED clearance lights.

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Old 07-22-2013, 10:10 AM   #1427
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When JC installed the new bases, they caulked everything - the base to the trailer and the lens to the new aluminum base.

Russ


Thanks Russ. That seems to be the ticket to complete repair. I have these new larger rubber gaskets (photo on previous post) JC sent last week and don't know whether they fit into your repair or were meant for repair if you did not go with the Classic outer castings, but am about to find out. I'll either do this work myself or have my dealer do it. Since JC is not going to be hands on, I'll have to be the final quality control inspector. Want this light issue to go away and stay away.
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Old 07-22-2013, 02:18 PM   #1428
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running lights and filiform

OK, Airstream to authorize, what appears to be the standard fix in for everyone now. Install Classic cast frames around existing lights. They will replace the 6 LED fixtures that are collecting condensation, repair any remaining filiform and caulk everything. Am going to let a fairly close dealer do it that has done the work before.
I have one remaining question still not answered. Is there a silver paint that matches the Alcoa skin color to allow for better blending where corrosion repairs are made to the skin/panel edges or elsewhere? My repairs covered with clear coat come out darker that Alcoa skin. Robert used Thomas Stainless Steel paint and it matched pretty well. I'm trying to find out if there is something even better. A couple of online hobbyists have used different types of Chrome paint and complained that when you clear coat, it turns the chrome to a shiny aluminum look. That may be just what we would be looking for. Going to try a couple of out of the way places on the trailer and will post results if they are worth anything.
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