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Old 07-20-2013, 09:23 AM   #1401
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Complete Classic lights??

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Originally Posted by CaptainNecro View Post
Can someone post pics of the classic light assemblies?
Will someone please post a photo of what they mean by "Classic Castings" being used for these repairs. So far, JC has sent me new rubber gaskets that I see would insulate the light base from the skin and thus stop the filiform at the ends. But you would either have to cut the gasket or the light wiring to install them. So you guys talking about receiving "Castings", is that in addition to the Gaskets shown here or something different, or what.
I'm still waiting on request for complete light replacement with Classic fixtures as I also have 6 LEDs with H2O condensation issues.

Howard
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:30 AM   #1402
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Late model Classic LED fixture on our 2012 FC 25'. Sealed with Acry-R except at the bottom of the frame left unsealed for drainage, by Airstream Service Center.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:31 AM   #1403
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I'm attaching a picture of the marker lights from my 2012 International that were "upgraded" under warranty because of corrosion that had started at the tips where they are sharp and cut through the clearcoat. I also have a PDF document I'll have to attach later when I'm not using the iPad that shows how to do the replacement. It is the set of instructions that Jackson Center sent to the dealer that performed the warranty work.

Note that the attached pictures do not show the marker bezels being sealed with Acryl-r seam sealer. The red lens shows some of the moisture condensation that is also being discussed in this thread. My warranty isn't up yet and this is on the list for a final visit just before the 2 years expire.

Overall, I really like the appearance of the upgrade bezels. The documentation indicates these bezels are part of an upgrade kit so even if the warranty has expired, it appears it would still be available -- for a price, of course.

On final thought. . . I'm not sure if the terms and conditions of the AirForums allow me to post the PDF file from JC. I'll have to look and see if there is a copyright on it. If there is, I suppose I shouldn't post it, right?
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:41 AM   #1404
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Thanks for the link Bob. I knew that it wasn't galvanic, and now understand the cathodic reaction and anodic undermining at work. Interesting that this corrosion was not at all evident until after we spent two cool salty damp days at South Beach CG in Olympic NP, followed by three days in the forest before I gave the unit a pressure wash in Forks, WA. Less than a week later - the filaments appeared. This article QUALISINO — TECHNICAL ARTICLES — Filiform Corrosion doesn't provide much encouragement as far as prevention. Airstream recommends CorrosionX, so I guess that will be added to my detailing. Glad that we live in CO and appreciate the camping there and in UT, it appears that this isn't a trailer for the beach.
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:54 AM   #1405
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JamuJoe View Post
it appears that this isn't a trailer for the beach.
Or places where roads are salted (salt hangs out on roads all year).

Gene
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:37 PM   #1406
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running lights Filiform repair

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Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Late model Classic LED fixture on our 2012 FC 25'. Sealed with Acry-R except at the bottom of the frame left unsealed for drainage, by Airstream Service Center.
Thanks both Doug and Hoonanea. Looks like an exterior trim casting that goes on over the complete basic "cheaper" running light assembly. Do you remember Doug, if they replaced your complete light assembly with new Classic style or did they just install new gaskets and the outside teardrop ring to cover more area. I ask, because I'm trying to discern if the Classic trailer lights are completely a different assembly or if the lights on the Classic are the same as FC, INT, lights with just the addition of a better gasket and outer trim ring/casting. Since I can find no one complaining of Classic trailer lights taking on condensation, and most everyone else doing so, I suspect that the stock lights (that means bases, plastic lenses and the water tight seal of such) for the Classic trailers are different units and of better quality. Since you first had and identified the double problem (H2O/filiform) with the FC, INT trailers you would know if your lights were completely replaced, and that those lights, including plastic LED lenses and seals are of better quality than those that came on your 2012 originally.

Let me know, I should hear form JC early next week on my request for complete replacements. I would like to be sure I know that I'm on the right page insisting that the Classic light assemblies are of better quality with water tightness.

Howard
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Old 07-20-2013, 12:44 PM   #1407
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...it would be best if the chrome bezel was not in direct contact with the skin.


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Old 07-20-2013, 01:46 PM   #1408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Thanks both Doug and Hoonanea. Looks like an exterior trim casting that goes on over the complete basic "cheaper" running light assembly. Do you remember Doug, if they replaced your complete light assembly with new Classic style or did they just install new gaskets and the outside teardrop ring to cover more area. I ask, because I'm trying to discern if the Classic trailer lights are completely a different assembly or if the lights on the Classic are the same as FC, INT, lights with just the addition of a better gasket and outer trim ring/casting. Since I can find no one complaining of Classic trailer lights taking on condensation, and most everyone else doing so, I suspect that the stock lights (that means bases, plastic lenses and the water tight seal of such) for the Classic trailers are different units and of better quality. Since you first had and identified the double problem (H2O/filiform) with the FC, INT trailers you would know if your lights were completely replaced, and that those lights, including plastic LED lenses and seals are of better quality than those that came on your 2012 originally.

Let me know, I should hear form JC early next week on my request for complete replacements. I would like to be sure I know that I'm on the right page insisting that the Classic light assemblies are of better quality with water tightness.

Howard
The latest model Classic fixtures consist of a plastic lens and LED unit/elect components as one part number, and a aluminum frame as another part number. There are two different Classic aluminum frames, one for flat surfaces and one for curved surfaces, each with it's own part number. So we are talking three different part numbers, with the lens/LED unit being the same for curved or flat.

The Classic assembly are better quality in that the frame is aluminum, the FC/Int'l/Sport/EB are plastic frames. If you do not seal both the lens to the frame, and frame to the shell (leaving the bottom side of the side markers open to drain), you can be absolutely sure moisture will enter and accumulate inside the lens. So they must be sealed with Acryl-R immediately at installation.

Two problems to look for and you will most probably have with 2011/early 2012 clearance lights (except Classics) is the light frame ends will poke into the shell clear coat starting corrosion that will spread, and moisture often enters the fixture and accumulates inside the lens (easy to see the drops in there).

doug k
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Old 07-20-2013, 01:50 PM   #1409
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
Or places where roads are salted (salt hangs out on roads all year).

Gene
Minnesota roads are heavily salted every winter, but after the first good rain it's virtually gone and no longer a corrosion problem. Being snow birds, we don't bring the trailer home until after that happens.

doug k
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Old 07-20-2013, 02:23 PM   #1410
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I disagree Doug. The salt breaks down to a powder and gets ground into the pavement plus a lot ends up along the berm or dirt (to kill plants and trees). When it rains, you'll see a white residue on the road. Some may turn into an aerosol. Of course, you get more rain in Minnesota than in the west and the salt may wash away faster. But it will be there early in the season and depending on rainfall, longer.

Colorado uses a lot of magnesium chloride—it is a liquid and I suppose that gives it a better chance to get into the cracks in the pavement, dry out in the cracks and turn into powder or if wet, an aerosol. Some gets sprayed onto trees and does them no good either.

If your trailer were delivered to a dealer by flatbed truck (most are), and there was salt on the road, some will get onto the trailer. Maybe the dealer will wash it off, maybe not.

Of course there are other sources of corrosion and salts from factories. As that settles onto the skin, that can be another source of problems. You do not want to live near a chemical plant nor does your trailer.

Gene
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Old 07-20-2013, 04:39 PM   #1411
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My original FC LED fixture and replacement Classic LED fixture. Note the frame touching the shell and the tiny corrosion started on the original. Note the sealant on both the frame-to-shell junction, and the lens-to-frame junction on the replacement, as done by Airstream Service Center, Jackson Center.

doug k
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Old 07-20-2013, 05:07 PM   #1412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
The latest model Classic fixtures consist of a plastic lens and LED unit/elect components as one part number, and a aluminum frame as another part number. There are two different Classic aluminum frames, one for flat surfaces and one for curved surfaces, each with it's own part number. So we are talking three different part numbers, with the lens/LED unit being the same for curved or flat.

The Classic assembly are better quality in that the frame is aluminum, the FC/Int'l/Sport/EB are plastic frames. If you do not seal both the lens to the frame, and frame to the shell (leaving the bottom side of the side markers open to drain), you can be absolutely sure moisture will enter and accumulate inside the lens. So they must be sealed with Acryl-R immediately at installation.

Two problems to look for and you will most probably have with 2011/early 2012 clearance lights (except Classics) is the light frame ends will poke into the shell clear coat starting corrosion that will spread, and moisture often enters the fixture and accumulates inside the lens (easy to see the drops in there).

doug k
Forgive me Doug for beating this to death, but want to be absolutely sure. Do you think the plastic lens (not the silver frame) is the same lens and part # for the Classic trailer as it is for all the rest of the fleet? Or is the Classic a better quality lens and LED light? If it is the same red or yellow position light (same part #), do you think that Acryl-R sealing at it's seams would stop the Condensation. In other words, do you feel that going with the upgrade kit--new cast AL outside shell with the same Flying Cloud LED lens and plastic frame would work OK as long as the existing LED light itself is sealed around its edges-or wherever the moisture is entering (it's either at the edge seams or where the wiring inters the back-so would need to try to seal both). Nothing about these lights comes close to quality and to put these things on for 1 1/2 years has caused a lot of us skin problems and water filled lights. Not at all OK.

Howard
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Old 07-20-2013, 08:05 PM   #1413
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Howard, as I remember looking at the the different fixtures at the Airstream Store in Jackson Center, the Classic lens is not the same as the others. But not completely sure. Call the Airstream Store and ask them, they have them on the shelf and have been very good about helping out. I like everything about the Jackson Center facilities; Store, Factory, and Service Center. Wish it was close to us.

It doesn't matter if its a FC lens or a Classic lens, if moisture gets under either the lens or frame and into the fixture, it's going to condense on the lens. And the only way you will get the moisture out is to remove the lens. So you must seal the lens and the frame to be sure the new Classic lens will not condense moisture.

For me, with a 2011/early 2012 trailer I would replace all the original lens' and frames with the entire Classic fixtures to minimize future corrosion and moisture problems, whether they paid for them or not. Stress the moisture and corrosion issues when dealing with them, they have been very good about this.

doug k
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Old 07-20-2013, 11:06 PM   #1414
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkottum View Post
Howard, as I remember looking at the the different fixtures at the Airstream Store in Jackson Center, the Classic lens is not the same as the others. But not completely sure. Call the Airstream Store and ask them, they have them on the shelf and have been very good about helping out. I like everything about the Jackson Center facilities; Store, Factory, and Service Center. Wish it was close to us.

It doesn't matter if its a FC lens or a Classic lens, if moisture gets under either the lens or frame and into the fixture, it's going to condense on the lens. And the only way you will get the moisture out is to remove the lens. So you must seal the lens and the frame to be sure the new Classic lens will not condense moisture.

For me, with a 2011/early 2012 trailer I would replace all the original lens' and frames with the entire Classic fixtures to minimize future corrosion and moisture problems, whether they paid for them or not. Stress the moisture and corrosion issues when dealing with them, they have been very good about this.

doug k
(Stress the moisture and corrosion issues when dealing with them, they have been very good about this).

I've stressed both with my request for 11 complete Classic replacements. Thanks again for all guidelines on this. Will post final outcome.
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