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Lily&Me · 06-19-2014, 04:16 AM

Thank you, Howard.

I'm pretty sure the leaking up there is stopped, and have recently had the entire roof gone over with silkaflex, again.

Any thoughts on whether this requires a trip to JC?

Maggie

Howard L. · 06-19-2014, 06:44 AM

I really don't know Maggie. But your new spot that showed up is caused by something happening up there. If you find moisture present in the insulation, you probably should pull that inside panel, find the problem and get it stopped. If you are close to JC go. You might try customer service call first. Ask for Dan Snyder, he's been there a long time, has always had an answer to my questions.

Lily&Me · 06-19-2014, 08:24 AM

I'm about 6 hours from JC, and had thought I would head that way a little later this summer.

Waiting for the dust to settle on estate issues and a couple of other things going on here before I take that on.

I had wondered if there was another option, also thought I would throw it out here and see what the Forums brains had to offer.

Will let y'all know what shakes out with this.

Thanks,

Maggie

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-19-2014, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doug&maggie

I'm about 6 hours from JC, and had thought I would head that way a little later this summer.

Waiting for the dust to settle on estate issues and a couple of other things going on here before I take that on.

I had wondered if there was another option, also thought I would throw it out here and see what the Forums brains had to offer.

Will let y'all know what shakes out with this.

Thanks,

Maggie

Hi, Maggie; Clean or sand off the bad spots and put flower decals over them and forget about it. [or whatever decals that you would like]

Lily&Me · 06-19-2014, 05:27 PM

I know you must be kidding about covering it with decals.

It will just continue to spread, won't it?

Becoming the corrosion that ate my ceiling?

Maggie

ROBERTSUNRUS · 06-19-2014, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by doug&maggie

I know you must be kidding about covering it with decals.

It will just continue to spread, won't it?

Becoming the corrosion that ate my ceiling?

Maggie

Hi, no not kidding; I damaged the outside of my trailer and covered it with an American flag decal. I think it sort of seals the area. My decal has been on my trailer for almost nine years now. I damaged my brand new trailer on it's way home from Oregon to California. Clean the bad area first and cover it up.

Wingeezer · 06-19-2014, 05:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, no not kidding; I damaged the outside of my trailer and covered it with an American flag decal. I think it sort of seals the area. My decal has been on my trailer for almost nine years now. I damaged my brand new trailer on it's way home from Oregon to California. Clean the bad area first and cover it up.

Hehehe,

I did exactly the same thing on our previous SOB trailer!

It had a stupid arrangement whereby the awning had a lock handle that folded in towards the trailer on the support arm.

One day - probably after one too many G&T's - I rolled the awning in due to an impending storm and didn't notice that I had left the lock handle in the folded out position!

As the awning rolled up and the arm came in, the extend handle poked a neat 1" diameter hole in the side of our fiberglass trailer side!

I knew I could never repair it to be invisible, but some epoxy putty and then a small Canadian flag decal did a perfect job!

Brian.

Hoboplayer · 06-23-2014, 09:37 AM

Need a little advice. This Friday I am bringing home a new Airstream. Then Sunday we are taking off on a Yellowstone trip. It is my first one and I want to give it the best of care. I know nothing about clear coats to treat for filform prevention but I have been reading this forum. I have found a source local source of clearcoat by Duplicolor but it is available as Acrylic Laquor or Acrylic Enamel. Can anyone advise me which to use?
Also should I treat the rivits and edges with Corrosion X before the clearcoat or wait for the first sign of filform.
Thanks for the help.

Hobo

Lily&Me · 06-23-2014, 10:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS

Hi, no not kidding; I damaged the outside of my trailer and covered it with an American flag decal. I think it sort of seals the area. My decal has been on my trailer for almost nine years now. I damaged my brand new trailer on it's way home from Oregon to California. Clean the bad area first and cover it up.

I might try that, but my suspicion is that it would be a temporary cover-up to a spreading problem.

Maggie

Howard L. · 06-23-2014, 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoboplayer

Need a little advice. This Friday I am bringing home a new Airstream. Then Sunday we are taking off on a Yellowstone trip. It is my first one and I want to give it the best of care. I know nothing about clear coats to treat for filform prevention but I have been reading this forum. I have found a source local source of clearcoat by Duplicolor but it is available as Acrylic Laquor or Acrylic Enamel. Can anyone advise me which to use?
Also should I treat the rivits and edges with Corrosion X before the clearcoat or wait for the first sign of filform.
Thanks for the help.

Hobo

Welcome aboard Hobo, you really need to work backwards on this thread and spend some time at it. If you will spend a few hours reviewing past posts for "how to" you'll find the info you need. The thread is massive and takes some time, but better than time and money wasted on trial and error solutions. You'll find posts by owners who have set up very successful preventative maint. programs plus you'll gain a good understanding of galvanic and Filiform corrosion itself. Some posts for new guys to start with: 1888, 1891, 1895, 1925, 1928. Timeline: 4/30/14 through 5/7/14. There is more good info on other threads like exterior clear coat, etc.
Note: clear coat of your choice, but you don't just put it on unless you think the Alcoa factory coat is missing for some reason.

Howard

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rodsterinfl · 06-23-2014, 09:22 PM

Tomzstream wrote

I have long wondered if the beltline trim strips might be available for Safari's, particularly the 8ft
wide models ( I recently looked at an older International with such trim.) How is it attached? Rivets? I should think it would be a great retrofit solution for those really concerned about the appearance of their trailers.

I added the belt line trim to my Safari. When I purchased it there was heavy corrosion at the line. I added it myself. The dealer told me that they used screws. The rail may be purchased from a dealer and they cut it for shipping. The insert is readily available. The main concern is to seal the edge with a substance. I used krylon paint 3 coats. Now I have learned that I could have used the airstream clearcoat as well. Regardless, it is not difficult as the rail molds itself to the sidewall as it is attached. I used stainless screws.

SilverCabin · 07-05-2014, 08:25 AM

If you look way back in this thread to September or October 2007, you will see where Airstream added the belt line trim to my 23' to cover the corrosion on my then new Airstream's rivet line, so it is available for the narrower models. We just purchased a 2014 27' FB FC and the trim was a factory installed standard feature.

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Gene · 07-08-2014, 03:15 PM

Airstream stopped installing the belt line extrusion (trim) sometimes before we bought our '08 trailer at the end of Oct., 2007. On one of our trips to JC, I had them install one. Some time after our trailer was made (summer, '07) they started putting it on again because of all the complaints about corrosion there.

They probably stopped putting them on to save money, but bought themselves a problem by not thinking it through and not asking themselves why it was there. All they had to do was lose on sale because of the complaints about the belt line and they had a net loss.

Gene

golfarch · 07-08-2014, 03:49 PM

Yes, and some humans have the right to be wrong!

golfarch · 07-08-2014, 06:43 PM

Howard:

Do you sand tail light castings & door hinge with 2000 Grit Emory Paper before Nyalic application?

Howard L. · 07-08-2014, 07:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by golfarch

Howard:

Do you sand tail light castings & door hinge with 2000 Grit Emory Paper before Nyalic application?

Yes. Just use 2000 or even 1000 grit black wet and dry paper. If the clear coat is not too bad, you don't even need to be too worried about sanding all the old stuff off, just make sure nothing loose is left. Then either tape off and spray, or brush on with a small top quality brush for oil based paints. If you want a real polished finish, then you would need to completely remove old clear coat and polish up the aluminum to the look you want before the Nyalic.

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golfarch · 07-08-2014, 07:41 PM

ggoat:

I had a 1994 BMW 740i that I just sold for $2,500.00. It was immaculate with 185,000 miles. It did not take care of itself. It was Sedan of the Year in 1994. However, I put $1,200.00 per year in maintenance and polished it twice a year for 20 years which was a three step process!

My 2007 27fb was purchased used and I have begun the process of "Progress not Perfection". It has flaws and it is my job to make it whole and beautiful.

Endodoc · 08-02-2014, 12:16 PM

If you want to see a case of advanced filiform corrosion, check out the 2009 Flying Cloud 28 Rear Bedroom on sale at the Foley dealership in Mississippi. Photos are on the website.

Endodoc · 08-02-2014, 12:24 PM

http://www.foleyrvcenter.com/rv/gulf...+28+queen+rear

Howard L. · 08-03-2014, 10:33 PM

Wow, there is an example of a trailer with no preventative maint. taken. That corrosion can catch you with your pants down, especially if the aluminum is exposed to corrosive environments--it did me. But, when you see it starting, you have to do something. I just wish Airstream would put out a written guide with suggestions for new owners to follow that would help them watch for and, if necessary, stop small problem areas that might show up. Would that hurt sales? I really doubt it. The fix is not that big of a deal if you know what to watch for and catch any problem area early.