Responding to inquiries on brake line routing, I have taken pictures of my installation. The electrical requirements were addressed while the shell was off. The power supply is a 10gauge, the control wiring is 12g, ground wire is also 10g.
My electric/hydraulic actuator is mounted just forward of the curb side wheel well, so that the hydraulic line could be routed straight throught he bottom front of the wheel well, eliminating long brake line runs.
The first picture shows the actuator, and the line going through the wheel well. My apologies for the less-than-stellar picture quality. It's kind of difficult to cram a camera in the available space..
This is a continuation of the brake line. as it exits the interior, and feeds a T under the curb side wheel well. From the T, it runs fore and aft to the individual wheels, and also through the axle mounting plate to a longer line that connects both sides of the axles.
I chose to run the outside ( exposed) brake lines through some conduit, so that there is a better margin of protection in case of a tire blowout. The pictures below also show the clips the secure the end of the flexible line to the mounting brackets.
The solid brake lines terminate in brackets supplied with the Dexter brake install kit for torsion axles. The brackets mount to the frame, and stabilize the transition from solid brake line to rubber flex line. The rubber lines are necessary to allow for suspension movement. They provide a connection from the frame mounted lines to the torsion arm mounted brake calipers. Careful routing is important, to prevent the tire, shock or torsion arm from potentially chafing the rubber line, resulting in brake fluid loss and subsequent brake failure.
I chose flexible lines that have a 90degree bend from the factory, to avoid too much kinking of the rubber brake line.
As far as installation goes, it took about 1 full day to install all the brake lines. I used a tubing cutter, a tubing bender, and a double flare tool to modify brake lines that were too long, or needed reshaping etc. The clamps that mount the brake lines ( both rubber and metal lines) are the kind with a rubber insert on the inside, keeps things nice and safe. I have towed this trailer for many thousand miles so far, and the last inspection showed no signs of problems, anywhere in the brake system.
Your installation will most likely vary due to layout differences, but the basics should still be similar. My goal was to to use the sortest runs possible, with the least amount of T's. I was concerned at first over the fact the the feed for the brake system is so close to the right front wheel, but in reality, the brake bias is perfectly even to all 4 wheels.
I'm about to start this project tonight. Thanks for the info and photos.
I do have a question. I have never worked with brakes before so I do know how to bleed them. I understand the principle but what/where do you physically turn to let the air escape as you apply the pressure?
Also, what kind and how much brake fluid will I need?
I'm about to start this project tonight. Thanks for the info and photos.
I do have a question. I have never worked with brakes before so I do know how to bleed them. I understand the principle but what/where do you physically turn to let the air escape as you apply the pressure?
Also, what kind and how much brake fluid will I need?
You do or do not know how to bleed them?
The idea is to get all the air out of the lines, replacing it with brake fluid.
I bought 2 quarts of brake fluid, and it was plenty. I bought it from my supplier that I use for Mercedes parts, the brand name is Pentosin. I imagine that all brand name brake fluid would work just as well, though.
Being that I did the brake bleeding alone, I rigged my remote starter switch that I use for valve adjustments with a long wire set, so that it activates the brake actuator. One side to 12V, the other side to the brake control wire at the trailer cord. This way I could push the button, and creep from wheel to wheel and bleed the fluid out. After bleeding one wheel I went inside to make sure the reservoir in the actuator never ran out. To prevent brake fluid spills, I used a section of clear tubing and pushed it over the brake bleeder nipple before loosening the bleeder screw. I started with the wheel that is farthest from the actuator, and worked my way back. I did the sequence three times, pausing for an hour or so in between. Maybe three times are overkill, but I wanted to make sure that all potential particles were flushed out, being that it was a new installation. Others might know more about brakes, but this is the procedure that I used, and the one that worked well for me.
I do NOT know how to bleed them. I understand the concept though.
Where is the bleeder nipple and screw?
Good idea on the long wire/switch.
The bleeder nipple is also the screw. The bottom section of the bleeder nipple accepts a hex wrench. I used one of my metric offset box end wrenches, so as to not damage the smallish hex on the bleeder nipple. Unscrew it a quarter turn, or until air or fluid or both escape.
I forgot to mention to use a container of some sort to catch the brake fluid that will spill out of the clear tubing.
When I first hit the switch to bleed, the actuator pushed air and fluid with such force, that there was a loud clunk when all 4 brake calipers slammed the pads onto the rotors. These are serious brakes....
You might also tighten all the nuts and bolts on the brake assemblies, just to be sure everything is nice and tight.
The bleeder nipple is also the screw. The bottom section of the bleeder nipple accepts a hex wrench. I used one of my metric offset box end wrenches, so as to not damage the smallish hex on the bleeder nipple. Unscrew it a quarter turn, or until air or fluid or both escape.
I forgot to mention to use a container of some sort to catch the brake fluid that will spill out of the clear tubing.
When I first hit the switch to bleed, the actuator pushed air and fluid with such force, that there was a loud clunk when all 4 brake calipers slammed the pads onto the rotors. These are serious brakes....
You might also tighten all the nuts and bolts on the brake assemblies, just to be sure everything is nice and tight.
Uwe,
How did you get a box end wrench over the tubing and onto the nut? I always use a flare nut wrench which wraps around all but one side of the nipple and therefore has an opening to for the tubing to pass through.
Are the nipples metric rather than SAE?
Bill
__________________
Bill Kerfoot, WBCCI/VAC/CAC/El Camino Real Unit #5223
Just my personal opinion
1973 Dodge W200 PowerWagon, 1977 Lincoln Continental
1979 23' Safari, and 1954 29' Double Door Liner Orange, CA
How did you get a box end wrench over the tubing and onto the nut? I always use a flare nut wrench which wraps around all but one side of the nipple and therefore has an opening to for the tubing to pass through.
Are the nipples metric rather than SAE?
Bill
I put the box end wrench on first, then the tubing over it.
The bleeder nipples are most likely SAE. I just happened to have a nice fitting metric box end wrench for it.
I am talking about bleeding, not installing the steel tubing.
The flare nuts on the steel tubing should be tightened with a flare nut wrench, of course.
Well, I got it done today. It took me about 10 hours from start to finish.
I used BluDots tandem torsion axle kit. It came with various brackets, hoses, and different tubing lengths. I did not flair or cut them. I just used the pre-made tubes and coiled up the extra and secured it to the bottom of the trailer.
I had my dad come by and help with the bleeding. It took about 3 hours to bleed them as I had to jack up and remove the wheels to access the bleed screw. Switch sides, jack, remove wheel, bleed, refil resivour, etc. I did it all twice.
Man what a job. I hope it was worth it! I have not towed it yet, but they respond to the manual brake overide on the P3, and also the emergentcy brakeaway switch.
I'm just glad its done. Thanks Uwe and all for your help.
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