I used the original thickness of glass 3/32. I was thinking of sealing the corners with Valcum. What do you think? I would think that 1/8 th glass would make the installation of the window seal much harder.
I hope the 1/8in glass wil work. I measured a broken chard after messing up the first purchase of glass....looked to me like 1/8. It might not have been original, though. I think it will work fine with the glazing bead, but I am more concerned with the weight. The 3/16 is so heavy that it would damage the window actuators over time, for sure.
On edit - I just re-measure another chard of glass - it's exactly 2mm, which would be 3/32. Dang - hope my 1/8 tempered glass won't be too heavy. Boy do I feel stupid right about now. This would be the second time I ordered and paid for the wrong spec. This is what happens when daily work gets in the way of the Airstream.
I finished rebuilding my Rock Shield. It had murky fiberglass before, with holes in it. I removed the fiberglass, disassembled the frame, and polished it. A new, lightly tinted polycarbonate sheet ( Lexan) was riveted in place. I used rivet washers at the backside, to keep the material from cracking due to the rivet's force. The Original piece was buck riveted with very small buck rivets, but I decided on pop rivets for simplicity sake. I am not worried about leaks here.
I chose the lightly tinted material so that I can still see through the trailer with the curtains open while towing.
The bulb gasket installation was definitely challenging for me, as there was lots of goop in the tiny channel that secures the T-shaped retainer lips of the bulb seal. I still need to find a suitable adhesive to mend the mitered edges.
...with the emphasis on "amateur"!
Did get the first heavy layer of old Zolatone and new paint off the window actuators. They clean up well, I think it will look much nicer in raw aluminum than caked with old or new paint. I used Goof stripper to clean the gunk off, and then lubed the gears with light grease for sunroof sliders from Mercedes Benz.
The compounding is done. The window frames still need alittle finesse polishing, but are looking quite nice. It really makes a difference when the frames are polished. I used a buffing wheel on edge for the frames, with brown rouge. I also used this buffing wheel on inaccessible areas, around the door, etc. Actually, I doubles 2 of the buffing wheels together for a wider path. Here, more than anywhere else, a slow buffer is essential.
My choise went to my old craftsman buffer, which is gutless, but resilient. It slows way down when the wheel hits the aluminum. My attempt at swirl mark photography:
The deal is off.
I have had enough for a while of polishing, raking pads, scrubbing, washing pads and clothes, scrubbing the floor in the shop, and removing black from my skin. Even though I have a helper, it's still a mess.
I am hoping that the cyclo passes are a little less messy, and more gratifying.
Just think, I get to do this all over every year or so! Oh joy...
I like the rock guard! If / when you get done with the polish job post a picture of it mounted. It looks like you will still be able to see through the trailer while in tow. The one on my 75 TW is way too dark for that. I have never liked the look of the original 60's rock guards.
It looks like you will still be able to see through the trailer while in tow. The one on my 75 TW is way too dark for that. I have never liked the look of the original 60's rock guards.
The originals were sort of inconsistent in shape and style. Mine is a custom job, from a fabrication shop near Seattle. I have seen many different styles on the 60's trailers. I like this one, though, as it has a very light look to it.
I chose the light grey tint because of the see-through feature. It bothered me on my 1971 that after I installed the new curved rock guard, I could no longer see through the back, or inside the trailer.
While on the subject of Windows and associated hardware.....I went to visit my local small box hardware store ( True Value) Friday afternoon, all my screens in hand. My objective was to find a place to install new screening in the existing frames, and have noe of the more corrodet screen frames reproduced. So they took the order, and had me pre-pay about $ 11.00 per screen, which I thought was ok. Come to find out, that's not re-screening, that's an entirely new screen, made to the exact specs of the old ones! Yay!
So now I am getting all new screens, for less than $ 80.00
Small box local hardware stores ROCK!
Thanks, Bill Kerfoot, for the referral!
I hope the 1/8in glass wil work. I measured a broken chard after messing up the first purchase of glass....looked to me like 1/8. It might not have been original, though. I think it will work fine with the glazing bead, but I am more concerned with the weight. The 3/16 is so heavy that it would damage the window actuators over time, for sure.
On edit - I just re-measure another chard of glass - it's exactly 2mm, which would be 3/32. Dang - hope my 1/8 tempered glass won't be too heavy. Boy do I feel stupid right about now. This would be the second time I ordered and paid for the wrong spec. This is what happens when daily work gets in the way of the Airstream.
Glass thickness 3/32 not 3/16. Your screen deal sound great. Nothing here in Yreka that even comes close to that.
I finished my last window today. Yes, Yes, Yes. I'm beginning to think that I won't polish.
Don
Glass thickness 3/32 not 3/16. Your screen deal sound great. Nothing here in Yreka that even comes close to that.
I finished my last window today. Yes, Yes, Yes. I'm beginning to think that I won't polish.
Don
Don,
I would like to figure out a nice finish of raw aluminum, one that can be kept up easily, but also looks uniformly good.
My skins were corroded severely, and uneven, so polishing seemed like a good idea at the time. It still kind of does, but I loathe the thought of having to redo this soon.
Maybe we should invest in an Airmark system. It's only $ 10,000.00, not much more than 2 polish jobs... rent it out for loan payments.
Some raw aluminum finish would be great. I don't know what an Airmark is. I do some research. You've make me curios. Here is another thought. I've been studying those Zolatone samples you lent me. They have an metal Zolatone finishes. One looks similar to a sand blasted aluminum. That looks interesting to me. What do you think. Do you think I'd be drummed out of the forum?
Don
Some raw aluminum finish would be great. I don't know what an Airmark is. I do some research. You've make me curios. Here is another thought. I've been studying those Zolatone samples you lent me. They have an metal Zolatone finishes. One looks similar to a sand blasted aluminum. That looks interesting to me. What do you think. Do you think I'd be drummed out of the forum?
Don
Not by me.....
I am not sure if this particular finish is exterior grade. But that would make an excellent interior look for a retro/modern interior, no?
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