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Old 04-09-2006, 07:35 PM   #659
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
I don't think I understand where yet... Body's door frame - on the part with the backs of rivets closest to the inside of the trailer?

Do you think this stuff won't work on the door itself?

Thanks,

c
It would work on the door itself as well.
I installed it in the recess with the backs of the rivets, like you assumed.
I installed it with the 2 lips facing into the door opening.
If you install it on the door, then I would suggest to install it with the lips pointing away from the door.
I am aiming for a double seal, as soon as the first one settles down a bit.

You'll know what lips I am talking about when you see the gasket material.

Ken makes a good point, in that I am beginning to believe that just about any suitable gasket material would work just fine. JC Whitney, here we come. I installed a JC Whitney door seal on the sliding door of a Ford Cargo Van I used to own, ( Ford wanted big $$$ for the simple gasket) and it worked remarkably well, and showed no signs of deterioration in the 3 years I owned it.
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:17 PM   #660
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I installed the gasket from inland on the door frame and it seals everywhere except the very top of the door. It seems there is a larger gap there than the sides. So I temporarily added a strip of foam to the door frame to see if it would stop water... didn't. I must need something thicker. However, the door is already semi-difficult to close. But I've never close another airstream door, so I don't know how "hard" others are to close. Basically the wind alone could never shut my door. You have to push on it near the knob when outside, or "slam" it from the inside.

Do other doors have this larger gap at the top? The door seems even, not off kilter in any way.
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Old 04-09-2006, 08:57 PM   #661
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
...........You have to push on it near the knob when outside, or "slam" it from the inside.

Do other doors have this larger gap at the top? The door seems even, not off kilter in any way.

I have the same problem with my '73. You have to "slam" the door to get it to close properly. The seal that is there is waterproof. I have no idea if it is original, but "looks" like it very well could be. Door seems pretty even, maybe a bit off on the latch side (sticks out a bit on the latch side).

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Old 04-09-2006, 09:44 PM   #662
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I installed the gasket from inland on the door frame and it seals everywhere except the very top of the door. It seems there is a larger gap there than the sides. So I temporarily added a strip of foam to the door frame to see if it would stop water... didn't. I must need something thicker. However, the door is already semi-difficult to close. But I've never close another airstream door, so I don't know how "hard" others are to close. Basically the wind alone could never shut my door. You have to push on it near the knob when outside, or "slam" it from the inside.

Do other doors have this larger gap at the top? The door seems even, not off kilter in any way.
My 71 was like that. Kinda hard to close, always. That's whith the original gasket. My 63 is now the same way. Not sure if this is normal.
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:13 PM   #663
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sequoiacoast
I installed the gasket from inland on the door frame and it seals everywhere except the very top of the door. It seems there is a larger gap there than the sides. So I temporarily added a strip of foam to the door frame to see if it would stop water... didn't. I must need something thicker. However, the door is already semi-difficult to close. But I've never close another airstream door, so I don't know how "hard" others are to close. Basically the wind alone could never shut my door. You have to push on it near the knob when outside, or "slam" it from the inside.

Do other doors have this larger gap at the top? The door seems even, not off kilter in any way.
My door has a wider gap at the top and the bottom. My guess is that the metal has stretched over time and use. Of course having the door fly off on our trip to South Beach had nothing to do with this condition. The door however seems to meet the description of others doors. Later I plan to construct some kind of jig to help me reshape the door's shape. If someone has already preformed this function, I missed the thread. I'm open to input and any ideas along this method. The door is hot high on the priority list at this time.
Don
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:21 PM   #664
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My sentiments exactly Don. My door flew off and it doesn't fit tight on the top or bottom either. Must be something about pavement and doors at over 50 mph that does it.

I'd like to see that thread too if it exists.

Brad
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:09 AM   #665
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My door had the big gaps top and bottom from flying open on the road ( happened to me first day I had it).It fits much better after new skins.Had to slam it at first with new seal but after a few month works nice.If I had to do it again I would build a plywood jig to hold the door to the correct shape when replacing skin.
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Old 04-13-2006, 10:43 PM   #666
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Dinette Progress

I spent a large part of the day in the shop, working on my dinette/loungette.
But, as usual not without some snags.
I made a flat frame from 1x3 pine, that is just 1.5in smaller on each dimension that the finished table. Then, I marked the frame on the table top bottom, so I could have a close fit. The plan was to make a frame from 1x2 flamed maple to form a surround for the table. So I cut and mitered everything, and felt quite smug, since it all looked so perfect.
Turns out that I thrashed my circular saw blade somehow, so that precious piece of maple ply that I selected for the table top got shredded along the edges. Major meltdown on my end!
So, to save the day, I went to Erasmo of MEL trailers, who has REAL tools, and had him do the rest of the cuts. One six pack later, we have a perfectly cut table top. It's now 3/8 narrower than intended, but it looks very clean against it's flamed maple edging/frame.
Then, I found out that it's twisting on the forward edges when leaned on, since it can only have a single leg in the front. No good. Skinning the underside with 1/4in ply and applying plenty wood glue took care of that. It is now very sturdy, and torsionally rigid.
I applied the third of 8 coats of finish on it just before I went home, too tired to take pictures. We are leaving ona family camping trip tomorrow over Easter, but I will post again, with pictures, once we return.
Happy Easter to everybody!
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:23 PM   #667
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Rained out...

Well, it turns out that our camping trip got rained out. Our kids would have been in tents, and their kids ( our grand kids) would have been muddy, messy, cold, and most likely sick by Monday...so, we cancelled the trip and will try again next weekend.
I did find some time today to snap a few photos and tinker a bit with the dinette.

Here some pictures of the finished product, less upholstery.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:28 PM   #668
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Storage

The dinette pedestals provide great additional storage. Their interiors are tall enough for large water bottles, and of course standard wine bottles. Lids open easily with finger holes. I might install piano hinges and lid stays, after the upholstery is finished. The street side pedestal is 10in longer to provide a lounge type seat on which one's legs can be propped up. Of course this one also has much more storage underneath.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:34 PM   #669
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Table hardware

Carlos turned me on to this table hardware. Very good stuff, I might add...
The folding bracket is from Rockler, the attachment rail from an RV supplier.
The rail gives the table a lot of stability in two directions, left to right and twisting. It also allows for teh table to be slid from left to right while on the rail. The single leg bracket has a very nice and precise locking action, with a sturdy lever that positively locks in two positions, leg folded in, or leg deployed.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:47 PM   #670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
The dinette pedestals provide great additional storage. Their interiors are tall enough for large water bottles, and of course standard wine bottles. Lids open easily with finger holes. I might install piano hinges and lid stays, after the upholstery is finished. The street side pedestal is 10in longer to provide a lounge type seat on which one's legs can be propped up. Of course this one also has much more storage underneath.
You've got to have room for the wine!

That dinette's looking great Uwe, excellent progress. Sorry to hear that your trip got rained out....
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:49 PM   #671
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Table..

My new dinette table although not as light in weight as planned, did turn out ok after all. It is built with a center of 1x3 pine stock, laid flat and joined with pocket screws. The top is 1/2in maple ply, and the bottom is 1/4in maple ply.
The assembly is surrounded by 1x2 flamed maple stock, attached with pocket screws through the inner pine frame.
After 3 of the 8 coats of finish, the figure in the wood started to appear, and I am excited that it turned out so pretty. It's a joy to look at for me, since I love figured wood from my guitar building days, I guess.
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Old 04-15-2006, 08:50 PM   #672
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
You've got to have room for the wine!

That dinette's looking great Uwe, excellent progress. Sorry to hear that your trip got rained out....
Well, this way, if I'm lucky, I can get the foam by next weekend, and have comfy place to sit and drink all that wine...
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