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Old 01-10-2006, 10:04 PM   #505
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Unhappy No shine here!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
I used Rockler's pure tung oil after running out of the McCloskey polymerized tung oil. Rockler's is pure, which means it does not get a sheen until you apply about 10 coats. ( with 24 hours drying time). Forget it. I need more McCloskey's tung oil. Seems to be hard to find in this town.
So, make sure and buy polymerized tung oil if you want a nice sheen in less than 4 weeks of constant work..
.
Uwe, I have been using tung oil on my refinished oak woodwork on my Safari and have been dissatisfied in the lack of sheen as well. I only applied a couple of coats because I was afraid too many would darken it too much. I tried to apply several coats of beeswax on top of that but still don't get that hoped for glow - I believe I've been using pure tung oil too- so - I have two questions - can you put polymerized tung oil over regular tung oil and if so will multiple coats darken the color much more than the first coat? How many coats of McCloskey's does it take to get that shine? Thanks, Diane

PS - your '63 looks awesome!
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Old 01-11-2006, 04:19 AM   #506
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moogie32
Uwe, I have been using tung oil on my refinished oak woodwork on my Safari and have been dissatisfied in the lack of sheen as well. I only applied a couple of coats because I was afraid too many would darken it too much. I tried to apply several coats of beeswax on top of that but still don't get that hoped for glow - I believe I've been using pure tung oil too- so - I have two questions - can you put polymerized tung oil over regular tung oil and if so will multiple coats darken the color much more than the first coat? How many coats of McCloskey's does it take to get that shine? Thanks, Diane

PS - your '63 looks awesome!
Diane,

I can't find this McCloskeys anywhere near here.
I ordered polymerized tung oil from Lee Valley. They have a great wood working catalog.
I did not notice an increase in color after the first coat of tung oil, so subsequent coats should not darken teh finish noticeably. I went over maple, which isa very light wood. I doubt that it would darken oak by much.
Yes, you can put polymerized tung oil over regular tung oil.
Polymerized tung oil: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42942
tung oil sealer:http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.a...at=1,190,42942

You should get much better results with these two products.
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Old 01-11-2006, 08:42 PM   #507
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Uwe,
Is your bath vanity aluminum or is it the Formica brand aluminum surface? Aslo, what did you use for the edging?

-Tracey
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:41 PM   #508
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Tracey,
It is thin stainless steel over 1/2in birch plywood.
It is amazing how much tougher stainless sheetmetal is asopposed to aluminum.
I am thinking of using polished aluminum edging from Outwater.com
Right now there is no edging. I am waitng for the stainless sink to be delivered, then I can finish the vanity top.
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Old 01-12-2006, 02:21 PM   #509
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How is the weight adding up?

It is great to see your pictures, nice work.

How much weight are you adding on if I may ask. Are you monitoring the weight and are you where you would like to be weight wise?
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Old 01-12-2006, 08:06 PM   #510
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Rob
It is great to see your pictures, nice work.

How much weight are you adding on if I may ask. Are you monitoring the weight and are you where you would like to be weight wise?
I have no clue where I am with the weight, but I do ( did) have a general plan.

I added a/c ( 100lbs
flooring ( about another 100lbs total)
frame steel ( ???lbs, guessing at about 200lbs additional)
2 tanks ( about 60lbs)
tank framing ( 60lbs)
catalytic heater ( 10lbs)
one extra battery ( 60lbs?)
electrical equipment and wiring ( 70lbs)


I removed a galvanized steel tank, linoleum flooring, rusted crossmembers, a huge heavy water heater, several tall cabinets, and a heavy furnace. It's hard to estimate the weight loss from the gut-out.

The interior wood is actually lighter and there is less of it than what was there before. The sub-structure of the cabinetry is feather light, and most of the face framing is 1x2 stock, which in itself is not very heavy. I am able to lift entire cabinets by myself, without straining. All the doors are 1/4 in ply with 1x2 frames, which are routered to recess, and are also very light.

My axle rating is 6000lbs, which I did assume is my new gross vehicle weight when I planned this revitalization. I won't know for sure until I go to a scale once everyting is finished.

My shakedown cruise to Pismo Beach went great, but the cabinetry was not finished then. The trailer felt substantially lighter and nimbler than my previous trailer, a 1971 TradeWind.
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Old 01-12-2006, 09:38 PM   #511
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Uwe,
Only 100 lbs for the floor? You are talking about the cork? Did you do the entire floor with the cork or just the exposed areas? I did Pergo in my house and I remember buying 700 Sq feet and it weighed (floor, pad, glue etc) over 1300 lbs or almost 2 lbs per square foot. I fiqure my 75 TradeWind has about 100 sq feet of floor or 200 lbs.
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Old 01-12-2006, 10:02 PM   #512
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azflycaster
Uwe,
Only 100 lbs for the floor? You are talking about the cork? Did you do the entire floor with the cork or just the exposed areas? I did Pergo in my house and I remember buying 700 Sq feet and it weighed (floor, pad, glue etc) over 1300 lbs or almost 2 lbs per square foot. I fiqure my 75 TradeWind has about 100 sq feet of floor or 200 lbs.
The cork is substantially lighter than Pergo. I did do the entire floor, not just the exposed areas.
I might be a little off on the floor weight, though. I have some leftovers that I can weigh tomorrow.
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Old 01-13-2006, 08:28 PM   #513
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Tracey,
It is thin stainless steel over 1/2in birch plywood.
It is amazing how much tougher stainless sheetmetal is asopposed to aluminum.
I am thinking of using polished aluminum edging from Outwater.com
Right now there is no edging. I am waitng for the stainless sink to be delivered, then I can finish the vanity top.
It looks great. Will be interested to see which Tee-moulding you choose. I ordered Outwater's catalog tonight. Thanks for the info.
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Old 01-19-2006, 12:02 PM   #514
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I would like your input!

Hi Uwe, I just poster some pictures and ideas on trying to solve the inner wall condensation problems. Would you take a look and comment.
Thanks Don
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Old 01-24-2006, 04:03 PM   #515
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Fantastic Vent

Hi Uwe,
Just wondering around Airstream Forums today and found your "note" and pictures of your installation--Fantastic work. You certainly have done a great job on the Airstream restoration.


Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Side note:
Adohen supply was absolutely great to deal with on these. They even replaced 2 trim piecs for free. I ordered the Airstream garnish, when I should have ordered straight interior garnish.My roof vent openings are framed in, so they're flat inside and out. The Airstream garnish allows for a slight roof curvature. Adohen is an excellent source for these items.
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Old 02-04-2006, 11:25 AM   #516
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Talking cover yourself in a hazmat suit!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
DON'T! You have no idea what you're about to start! Stay away from the buffer! Do not approach the polish jar! There's still time to bail on the polishing! Get a beer! Watch a movie, take a deep breath! Have someone call polishers anonymus. Turn away and forget about polishing........
absolutely! I am restricted to the dog house for a week after I polish....
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Old 02-04-2006, 01:13 PM   #517
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The latest progress is not in polishing, but rather in installing little objects inside the cabinetry, like hinges, stays, and magnetic thingies that keep the doors closed. The tung oil phase is finished as well. This is tedious work, takes lots of time, and it looks like nothing got done by the end of a day or evening.
My vanity sink should arrive on Monday, so I can finish the bath counter and plumbing. The stainless galley backsplash is also pre-cut, ready for final cutting and fitting. All in all it is beginning to look like a finished product.
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Old 02-04-2006, 03:53 PM   #518
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokelessJoe
Uwe,

When IKEA started selling those solid wood countertops, ten years ago or more, they recommended a 50/50 solution of turpentine and linseed oil.

Sergei
I've been using the linseed/turpentine treatment for my kitchen countertops for 30 years. If you ding it, you use a little sandpaper and more oil and it's as good as new. Just be careful to wipe it dry about 10 times as it soaks in or you'll have shiney varnish spots that can be sticky for a looooonnnng time. A really really really important point is it must be BOILED linseed oil or you will have a sticky mess for some time!

If you want to do the salad bowl route, use either walnut or peanut oil--they are the only two that are guaranteed not to turn rancid. I use the nut oil on cutting boards and linseed on countertops and it seems to be the right combination. You don't want to cut food on the countertop anyway.... (unless you're by yourself and the other half isn't looking)
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