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Old 05-31-2004, 08:59 AM   #29
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1956 22' Flying Cloud
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Uwe

Yup, start at the bottom and work up - thats my plan

Ken
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Old 06-01-2004, 07:50 PM   #30
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1959 26' Overlander
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Great find. I think your basic structure is like my 59.

I have the same thing going in terms of a full rebuild. Don't know what the rear floor is like, except for a area where there isn't one. I have so far taken up a rug, padding, particle board floor, and plywood floor to reveal the orginal plywood. Which was painted white with remains of tiles. In front one bad spot by the door window. I feel lucky. My windows all need rebuilding. But the dome is in great shape.

Where does one find the basement AC. I like the idea.
I have a mid twin layout. Played with changing to a rear twin but it doesn't work with the window placement.

PS. I can pick up the tongue on mine as well. Dual axel, bathroom in place and nothing in the front.
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Old 06-02-2004, 11:31 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psychpw

Where does one find the basement AC. I like the idea.
I have a mid twin layout. Played with changing to a rear twin but it doesn't work with the window placement.
Dometic makes them. Called a basement heat pump. ( 39335.541) I ordered their detailed installation manual, to make sure it can be used in the position in which I want it. They have a 15kbtu unit, with a/c and heat, comes with digital wall thermostat control. They claim it's super quiet and very efficient.
It is about twice the size of an old furnace, and weighs about 100lbs.
I like the idea of having this 100lbs on the floor instead of the roof. It will be positiones either under the stove in the galley, or under the bed right behind the left rear wheel.
I think that with subfloor fresh and grey tanks and this basement a/c, this should be a nice trailer to tow. My goal is to have a very low center of gravity, together with very clean lines and an airy interior without much clutter.
I was momentarily thinking of doing a rear bed, center bath as well. But then I found out the bathtup is restorable, the countertop int he back bath is perfect ( just dirty) and the black tank/toilet location is preferable to moving it to a midship position. i can't get over how nice the bathroom layout is in the back of this trailer, with this nice, large vanity. I think my wife is going to love it when it's done. I'm doing this for her, too, after all.
btw, I find that there can be a 48inx79in bed made up at all times, with a 4in pullout to bring it to 52in if needed. The bed in my 71 Tradewind is 48+ inches, and it fits us fine. I will keep the dresser opposite from the bed somewhat narrow, barely exceeding the width of the inner wheel well, for maximum hallway width. Well, that's the plan ayways. Who knows, changes might be required, due to circumstances out of my control. Like my wife learning of my plans......
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:18 PM   #32
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Gutter

Quote:
Originally Posted by greg176
Uwe
Congratulations , looks great.Those pictures are big help to me as I am planning on replacing most of the skin on my '61.I was considering adding a joint over the curb side window and from your photos it looks original.I also like the look of the aft compartment and the gutter over the door.Could you please post a photo of that gutter up close it would be a big help.I have an old Armstrong a/c on the roof and want to remove it and put a basement model under the sink , your trailer looks great without that big lump on top.
Greg, here are 2 pictures of the gutter. It is a bent aluminum profile, screwed to the skin.

You can see the "window sheet" in the picture in the next post. I do believe that it is original, and it terminates very smoothly in one of the front and rear curved segments.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:25 PM   #33
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I got a few more pics this morning, with the progress so far. i was able to clean out most of the old floor and insulation, so far have only found 2 rusted out cross members. They are in the precise locations where i need to cut out crossmembers anyways. The front one is where the fresh water tank will go, the rrear one would have been in the way of the grey tank. Just got the very back 3 feet of flooring and the bathtub to remove. Oh, and the black tank.
Next step after this is to start drilling out rivets. Oh Joy.
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Old 06-02-2004, 12:58 PM   #34
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I love the way the trailer side rivet lines flow into the front and rear ends caps on most 7 panel, 1958-1963 Airstream trailers. Its absolutely beautiful. Great shell you have there, Uwe!
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Old 06-02-2004, 01:43 PM   #35
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Uwe
Thanks for the pictures of the gutter over the door, it's a big help.Congrats again on a great find.
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Old 06-25-2004, 05:59 PM   #36
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Update:
Shell is semi-loose - held on mostly by the black undercoating they sprayed everywhere. I believe that 99% of all the rivets are removed, so I can start rigging the warehouse for rope hoists to get the shell up and off the frame. Can't use my fork lift - ceiling too low, darn.
I went and got some metal studs to make braces from, and still need to take a few more measurements. Wish me luck.
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:26 AM   #37
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Good luck - were all pullin for ya........
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Old 06-26-2004, 09:30 AM   #38
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On your street side, is that lower panel an add on? Reason I ask is I've got a rip in my wheel wheel I'm trying to figure out how best to fix - my thinking is to add a panel and use an awning rail at the seam for a tire cover, in your case it looks like they put a lower panel on.

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Old 06-26-2004, 09:32 AM   #39
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Oops - looked at pictures again - its curb side

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Old 06-26-2004, 11:52 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Uwe

On your street side, is that lower panel an add on? Reason I ask is I've got a rip in my wheel wheel I'm trying to figure out how best to fix - my thinking is to add a panel and use an awning rail at the seam for a tire cover, in your case it looks like they put a lower panel on.

Ken
It is on the curb side, and I consider it a flaw. Someone obviously had an accident, and the repair should have been replacement of the entire panel up to the window line. Instead, they went the cheaper route and just put a panel in, not even tucking it under the original panel at the uppeer seam, but laying it over, so the seam can channel water inside the shell....
I am considering replacing the entire panel, just saving the fridge access door. I think the seam detracts from the lines of this trailer. But i am not sure yet, need to look at it some more..
However, if your damage can be concealed by the awning rail over teh wheel well, then that's fine. My tradewind has awning rails over the wheel wells, for tire protectors. They look fine, no issues.
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:05 PM   #41
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Well, today the shell came loose, it's now hanging a few inches above the frame.
I missed a few hidden rivets, but other than that it came off quite easily.
I am shocked about how flexible this trailer frame is. Gives me a whole new appreciation for some of the Andy's statements about frame separation etc.
This will require quite a bit of reinforcement to be able to carry the extra underfloor tanks and basement type A/C that I have planned to install. I might also go with 3/4 ply instead of 5/8. I wonder if the extra weight offsets the extra strength in the thicker material? Film at eleven.....
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Old 06-30-2004, 11:16 PM   #42
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It's hard to appreciate how flexible that big frame could be till you grab the bumper and give it a bounce.These days it's one of my favorite passtimes.But now I have to move on to repairing the wheel tubs before I can put more floor down.
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