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Old 11-13-2005, 02:52 PM   #393
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Well, the countertops are actually finished. Done deal for now. Thanks for the tips!
I used tung oil on the cabinets, which is similar, buffs up nicely with carnauba wax. Tung oil is very efficient, it seems. I only used 1 quart so far, just about to start on the second quart to finish the galley cabinet and bathroom vanity.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:06 PM   #394
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Hi Uwe,

I'm curiously going to be watching your cabinet building; or are you buying them? Are you going to use the trailer walls for the backs of the cabinets or are they going to be enclosed units?

Curved cabinets. Sounds challenging...and we need to do it too.
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Old 11-13-2005, 03:15 PM   #395
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes
Hi Uwe,

I'm curiously going to be watching your cabinet building; or are you buying them? Are you going to use the trailer walls for the backs of the cabinets or are they going to be enclosed units?

Curved cabinets. Sounds challenging...and we need to do it too.
I am building them. The trailer walls are indeed the back of the cabinets.
It takes ome getting used to, with teh curves and all. Plus, it seems that every curve is different, so making a template and using it for all the walls will ony get you close, but not exact. A major p i t a.
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Old 11-13-2005, 06:58 PM   #396
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Smile Cabinets

Would like to see some pictures of you cabiner work.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:02 PM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorCal Bambi
Would like to see some pictures of you cabiner work.
There are some around post # 343. I will post more as the work progresses.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:16 PM   #398
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beautiful cabinets!

Hey Uwe - Wow - your cabinets look great! I would like to use an oil on my sanded down original oak cabinets. I tried Danish oil and was pleased with the results but unlike your maple, my wood is sucking the oil down like there's no tomorrow. I can't find Danish oil readily and when I do it's in small cans and expensive. Would tung oil darken the oak that much? I'd like to keep it light if possible. Thanks, Diane
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Old 11-14-2005, 01:20 AM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moogie32
Hey Uwe - Wow - your cabinets look great! I would like to use an oil on my sanded down original oak cabinets. I tried Danish oil and was pleased with the results but unlike your maple, my wood is sucking the oil down like there's no tomorrow. I can't find Danish oil readily and when I do it's in small cans and expensive. Would tung oil darken the oak that much? I'd like to keep it light if possible. Thanks, Diane
Diane,
There's a process to oiling the wood. The first few coats get absorbed almost entirely. I opted to sand between coats to get a soft feeling final finish. Polymerized tung oil dries relatively fast, and has a natural honey tone to it. It does darken the wood slightly. A quart of tung oil runs about $ 15.00, but does go a long way. Danish oil is similar, my tests did not have much of a color difference. The tung oil did dry quicker and harder, though.
Here's a basic article on tung oil: http://doityourself.com/woodfinish/wftungoil.htm
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Old 11-21-2005, 07:06 PM   #400
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Uwe, Man does this look great. I have a few questions that go back a ways, so answer if you have time. Sorry, but somehow I missed your thread altogether and only recently finished reading it. I am in the middle of a restoration on a ’73 Overlander. I’ve got the trailer apart and am ¾ done with the frame. BTW, I agree completely with your sentiments exactly on frame repair. I’m REALLY ready to get past this stage.

So here is the barrage of questions.

What did you use to seal the aluminum sheet b/w the floor and door step? Sikaflex? Vulkem? What flavor of Vulkem are you using in areas that require Vulkem?

The welded areas aft of the wheel wells. My trailer doesn’t have “rear sag” yet, but will someday, so I’m thinking of welding the “elephant ears” that folks talk about. (I haven’t actually read up on this subject yet) Do you think the added piece on the “I-beam” or “C-beam” that you put in there would be sufficient? It appears that the ‘70’s models simply placed too much weight behind the wheels, the weakest part of the frame.

What was your source for the aluminum insulation? Is it “taped in” using some brand of two sided tape?

I really want to do something similar with wood for the partitions and cabinetry. I simply can’t stand all that dark, brittle plastic. You are using ¼ inch maple, finished on one side or two? I only have big box stores near me and all they seem to have is A/C grade ¼’

Appreciate any advice. Happy Turkey Day.

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Old 11-21-2005, 11:50 PM   #401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Uwe, Man does this look great. I have a few questions that go back a ways, so answer if you have time. Sorry, but somehow I missed your thread altogether and only recently finished reading it. I am in the middle of a restoration on a ’73 Overlander. I’ve got the trailer apart and am ¾ done with the frame. BTW, I agree completely with your sentiments exactly on frame repair. I’m REALLY ready to get past this stage.

I hear you. It's a milestone event once the welding and POR mess is over with. Although, I sort of had fun with all the sparks and fire stuff...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
So here is the barrage of questions.

What did you use to seal the aluminum sheet b/w the floor and door step? Sikaflex? Vulkem? What flavor of Vulkem are you using in areas that require Vulkem?

Vulkem, the grey cartridge tubes from Vintage Trailer Supply. It is non grainy, and can be put in a syringe for small work, like around olympic rivets.
I used to buy Sikaflex, but found that it sets up too fast, which makes it hard to work on larger projects, like sheet replacement.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
The welded areas aft of the wheel wells. My trailer doesn’t have “rear sag” yet, but will someday, so I’m thinking of welding the “elephant ears” that folks talk about. (I haven’t actually read up on this subject yet) Do you think the added piece on the “I-beam” or “C-beam” that you put in there would be sufficient? It appears that the ‘70’s models simply placed too much weight behind the wheels, the weakest part of the frame.

I think that you need to simply take a look at the rear frame section, and repair all rusted areas. If you are going to add tanks, then I strongly suggest to add square tubing to the rear frame section to reinforce the existing crossmembers. Then, secure the C-Channel very well to the rear floor, use many bolts and large, strong washers so that the shell eventually will sit very securely on the c-channel, which sits very securely on the rear floor, which is very securely mounted to the frame.
this should prevent frame separation from teh floor and c-channel for a good long time.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
What was your source for the aluminum insulation? Is it “taped in” using some brand of two sided tape?

It is Reflectix, from Home Depot. It is mounted on strips of 3/8 closed cell strips, which are applied to the skin with construction adhesive. You need an air space between the foil and the skin, on both sides.
The gaps are taped with aluminum tape.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
I really want to do something similar with wood for the partitions and cabinetry. I simply can’t stand all that dark, brittle plastic. You are using ¼ inch maple, finished on one side or two? I only have big box stores near me and all they seem to have is A/C grade ¼’

go to a hardwood supplier in your area. Look around a bit, there will be one close by. They have wonderful wood varieties. $$$spensive, but well worth it. My maple is officially finished on one side, but the other side is nice enough to show as well, especially after sanding and oiling.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Appreciate any advice. Happy Turkey Day.

Same to you, and good luck!
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:32 AM   #402
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Latest progress

This carpentry racket is tedious! Very slow going. It seems like I work for hours and very little visible stuff gets done. Spent a few hours Friday working on the vanity. It's getting a bottle rack for shampoo, lotions, sunscreen etc, right behind a set of double doors, with a shelf above for small baskets of toiletries. this can be slipped out and put on the counter when we need them, then neatly put away again. The old, original counter is visible in the pictures, but we're not sure if it is going to be refinished, or if I make anew counter. If we do refinish it, then it will be the same color as the bath tub. The space below the shelf, and ahead of the bottle rack, is accessible from behind the trailer. It will hold camping necessities, such as water hoses, wheel chocks, odds and ends as such.
Next to the double doors will be a clothes hamper, with a removeable door and a canvas bag inside. I think that was what was there originally. None of the wood inside the little bath has any finish on it yet. I purchased some special polyurethane oil for this purpose, to make it more water resistant.
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:42 AM   #403
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Saturday,11/26/05

The interior shelving framework for the dresser/curbside kitchen cabinet is finished. Unfortunately, I ran out of 1/4 in plywood for the shelves. But the framing is done, and all that's left there is to cut the rest of the shelves and secure them with stainless screws.
The lower support also secures the face frames to the wall down low, the upper supports only float the plywood shelf.
I used 1x2's, and routed a relief in one corner so the front of the shelf would look clean and flush when the cabinet door is opened. On the bottom, there is a removeable panel to access the batteries below. Didi and I will soon be shopping for canvas lined baskets for the dresser section of the installation.
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Old 11-27-2005, 10:57 AM   #404
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Oovay -
You're work is outstanding! Well thought out too. I hope the fellas at the factory are following this thread. Looks like you're getting into the home stretch. A question - it looks like there's a hole in your bathroom floor under the vanity cabinet. This must have been where the commode used to sit? Looks also like it might be a tight fit for your plumbing under the bathroom sink. Going to run it down behind where the hamper space is?

Keep at it. Its coming out fantastic. Going to have it done for our TCT Rally in the end of February? Hope so, I'd like to see it in person.

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Old 11-27-2005, 11:27 AM   #405
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Looks great. Time consuming it is, I agree!

The curly maple (is that what it is?) looks good in the bath. Is the poly/oil a wipe on sort of stuff? I am using something similar called armrseal or something like that...

What is the little trim strip that seals the countertop to the wall in the bath?

What will you use to keep the cabinet doors shut? The original hardware or something new?


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Old 11-27-2005, 11:34 AM   #406
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Uwe,

You are doing what I hope to do with my remodel – build better and more imaginatively even than the Airstream original.

The Amish brothers building my cabinets are to use light 1” x 2” and 1/4” panel construction as well. Now I have some photos to show them. Thanks for the posting.

Henry and Peter come to see the trailer with their horse and buggy but they enjoy seeing photos on my iBook too.

Sergei
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