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Old 09-03-2005, 09:04 PM   #281
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I feel bad for being so excited about my trailer, with all the misery down south in Katrina's aftermath.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:07 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
What about these:
Not trying to be stubborn, just imagining appliance shuddering down the road, copper line having little or no give, and all the while the stresses end up at the connections. Can't be that good. I had to redo a bunch of connections on the 71 Tradewind.
Are those in the link above legal?
I dunno about legal, but they should do the job. I would stub the hard line thru the floor and tap into it there with the flex line. I would also add a shut off valve on the outside before you cone up thru the belly pan and floor.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:12 PM   #283
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Tub

Almost forgot,
The tub got done, too. They spent over 3 hours on it, prepping, priming, filling, sanding, priming agin, then several coats of finish coating.
Once it's installed, they will come back and wetsand/buff it. Should be really nice. It's slightly grainy right now, but definitely nice.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:16 PM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thenewkid64
I dunno about legal, but they should do the job. I would stub the hard line thru the floor and tap into it there with the flex line. I would also add a shut off valve on the outside before you cone up thru the belly pan and floor.
I want to insure this nightmare once it's done. Too much time and money in it to risk losing it to misfortune.
Hence, my quest for a legal installation.
So far that I know, all but the final connections to the applicane must be made outside the living space of the coach. This means I'd have to run the flex out through the floor, to a shutoff valve right under the belly pan.
Thanks for the shutof valve idea, Brett.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:19 PM   #285
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New Wheels!

My tires and wheels came in yesterday as well.
4 Marathons, and 4 alloy wheels. I will get a 5th wheel for a spare, once my budget allows.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:30 PM   #286
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Flex Lines / Window a/c?

Uwe,

Your construction is immaculate.

I like the metal flex line like we have on our gas stove at home.
There is nothing quite like a gas explosion in a metal can.
Easily purchased at a gas supplier.

Is your a/c a window unit? I like your clean roof ideas.
In another thread the mention of cold feet turned me off somewhat.
An air diffuser on the ceiling and ductwork to the peak would be a challenge.
Hot air rises, cold air falls, pick up hot, drop down cold.
Still have trouble with the flow of air, great that you share with us.

A friend dealt in used Airstreams, he never used a spare, they work on three tires, he used a 4 cyl Japanese truck to haul them.

Robert
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:34 PM   #287
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wow! you've made a lot of progress, man. i can't wait until the projects on mine are one day jobs, rather than "i gotta get this done before the rain comes again" type things.


one day!

jordan
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:38 PM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fast Rob
Uwe,

Your construction is immaculate.

I like the metal flex line like we have on our gas stove at home.
There is nothing quite like a gas explosion in a metal can.
Easily purchased at a gas supplier.

Is your a/c a window unit? I like your clean roof ideas.
In another thread the mention of cold feet turned me off somewhat.
An air diffuser on the ceiling and ductwork to the peak would be a challenge.
Hot air rises, cold air falls, pick up hot, drop down cold.
Still have trouble with the flow of air, great that you share with us.

A friend dealt in used Airstreams, he never used a spare, they work on three tires, he used a 4 cyl Japanese truck to haul them.

Robert
Robert,
Yes, it is a window unit. The biggest and baddest one that still runs on 120V.
I modded it to have 2 4in outlets. You can see one of them in the pictures below. There is plenty room for flexible, insulated ducting to be ran through the walls and overhead bins to bring the air up to roof level. The a/c is efficient enough to push the air through 10-15ft of ducts, without a problem. I did a dry run before permanently installing the beast. I'll post more as I build out the interior. Stay tuned.
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Old 09-03-2005, 09:41 PM   #289
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
wow! you've made a lot of progress, man. i can't wait until the projects on mine are one day jobs, rather than "i gotta get this done before the rain comes again" type things.


one day!

jordan
It sort of creeps up on you. All of sudden, it's time to put away the air tools and start looking around for the next step in the queue.
I can attest to the fact that once the burns from welding and wounds from metal work have healed, the itching from removing old insulation has subsided, the fear of dying from rot and mildew has eased, this is actually great fun!
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Old 09-03-2005, 11:55 PM   #290
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
I feel bad for being so excited about my trailer, with all the misery down south in Katrina's aftermath.
I think everybody feels bad, just getting on with their lives. Just remember you're concentrating on what's important in life by finishing this trailer, because a disaster can befall any of us.

You're making so much progress and I've been going so slowly! Tomorrow I'm going back to work on the windows. Keep up the motivation for the rest of us!
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:10 AM   #291
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Uwe

I'm not sure about the rubber lines as those in your link. My understanding is the residential metal ones are a no no. I don't know if the rubber are legal. However, since you have to have all connections outside the belly, I would be concerned about the rubber rubbing against the belly sheet metal. I if you make the hole big enough, you invite the mice.... My (again its my understanding from reading this stuff for about 8 years) understanding is you want to use flair joints at the appliance. The worst case for that type of fitting is you have to tighen them every once in a while.

I agree with Brett on the valves - its what I plan to do and is what I had on the Tradewind.

A quick check for gas leaks is to run the stove (as in light it). Then shut off the stove and the valve at the tank. Wait 15 minutes - then light the stove (don't turn the valve on the main tank) - when you light it, it will run a bit before it goes out. If it doesn't - you have a leak.

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Old 09-04-2005, 10:10 AM   #292
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Those wheels look fantastic!!!!
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:25 AM   #293
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Those wheels look fantastic!!!!
Thanks, Ken. I will mount and balance them on Tuesday, then I can let you know how they fit.
From the looks of it, they should be perfect, as they are 15x6, zero offset.
Just like a factory wheel.
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Old 09-04-2005, 10:33 AM   #294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Uwe

I'm not sure about the rubber lines as those in your link. My understanding is the residential metal ones are a no no. I don't know if the rubber are legal. However, since you have to have all connections outside the belly, I would be concerned about the rubber rubbing against the belly sheet metal. I if you make the hole big enough, you invite the mice.... My (again its my understanding from reading this stuff for about 8 years) understanding is you want to use flair joints at the appliance. The worst case for that type of fitting is you have to tighen them every once in a while.

I agree with Brett on the valves - its what I plan to do and is what I had on the Tradewind.

A quick check for gas leaks is to run the stove (as in light it). Then shut off the stove and the valve at the tank. Wait 15 minutes - then light the stove (don't turn the valve on the main tank) - when you light it, it will run a bit before it goes out. If it doesn't - you have a leak.

Ken
I can run solid copper to all the appliances but the refrigerator. You're right, it's not that big of a deal to tighten some fitting every once in a blue moon.

I used to drip soapy water onto the fittings, and watch for bubbles. Someone told me this would be a good leak detection method.

My refrigerator is a hardwood slides, so I can easily pull it forward for service. I believe I already mentioned that I did not want to cut the skin for an access panel, so I plan on simply making the side wall that covers the fridge removeable towards the entry door space. This means that the fridge's LP supply line must be somewhat flexible, to facilitate the movement of the unit in case of a service need.

What size copper is the main supply line, typically? What size are the individual appliance feeds?
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