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Old 06-13-2005, 11:41 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarkR
So is the waste piping shown in post #142 "below the belly" or is it between the floor and belly (sorry, just not getting it). And have you given out the name of the company that built your tanks - I couldn't find it.
Thanks,
Mark
The black tank is above the floor. The black tank exit is inside the cavity between the belly pan and the floor, the grey tank exits just below the belly pan/frame level. The entire dump valve is below the belly pan level.
I PM'd you for the tank mfg.
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:29 PM   #212
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Progress Report

A/C rough in - Done!
Wiring - Done!
Rough layout - Done! ( looks like everything fits!)
Tank sensors - Done!
Reese Dual Cam HP install - Done!
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Old 06-14-2005, 11:37 PM   #213
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More pictures

These got bounced from the last post. All the pics got scrambled during the upload, so they're out of order. I guess software engineering still has along ways to go, sorta like me and my trailer.....
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Old 07-04-2005, 08:29 PM   #214
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More progress

The belly pan is all installed now. The part between the axles was a bear. Should have done that one before installing the axles. The bumper compartment might need another layer of aluminum for strength, but I ran out of steam before tackling that one.
The A/C water drain system is finishd also, by means of a 1/2in floor flange, and a flexible sprinkler riser. Will ake some pics soon and post them here.
I dry fitted the fridge, water heater and other appliances, and will take everything back out this week to prep for paint. I might be tackling the Zolatone process, although so far I am not sure which color to order. A paint place close by can rent the precise equipment needed to apply the stuff. Primer first, then we'll see. In the meantime, maple wood in all sizes and shapes is beginning to collect in my shop, ready to morph into an Airstream interior.
Setback: One of my well nuts ( level sensors) in the black tank seems to be loose, and won't get tight like the others. I ordered new ones and am hoping that it's just a messed up well nut, as opposed to a defect in the tank sidewall ( unlikely). Other than that, full speed ahead!
On a sad note, I had to cancel our trip to Colorado Springs this August. No way I can get the Overlander safely on the road by then. I do not want to turn my hobby into a stress situation.
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Old 07-05-2005, 01:07 PM   #215
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FWIW - I like Colonial White the best - nice light and airy color....... saw it last summer at the VAC rally in Co Springs......


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Old 07-05-2005, 09:30 PM   #216
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RE: Rocky Mountain Rally

Greetings uwe!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
On a sad note, I had to cancel our trip to Colorado Springs this August. No way I can get the Overlander safely on the road by then. I do not want to turn my hobby into a stress situation.
An option would be to attend sans-trailer as I did last year. The Garden of the Gods Campground has Camping Cabins on-site that can be rented -- since my problem was last-minute tow-vehicle issues, I wasn't able to reserve one of the cabins, but with lead time you may be able to obtain one. I enjoyed the Rally even though my coaches were both parked in Southern Illinois.

See: Garden of the Gods Campground -- Camping Cabins

Good luck with your restoration!

Kevin
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Old 07-05-2005, 09:58 PM   #217
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Thanks, Kevin. That's a great idea. I will look into this option.
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Old 07-18-2005, 09:22 PM   #218
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Uwe,

Great progress!

Could you give a little more information about how you attached the belly pan? I think I understand that you did the edges first - running from the c channel to the main frame beams, leaving the center for later.


When you put on these edge pieces did you first cleco directly to the main trailer length frame beams? And then when you put in the center pieces they were tucked under these edges and rivetted? This is what it looks like to me, but I could be reading the pics wrong. I wonder too about the front and back compound curve pieces - do you have one piece of aluminum that runs the entire width of the trailer in these spots?

As usual, thanks for your help,

Carlos Ferguson
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Old 07-18-2005, 11:13 PM   #219
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yeah, what he said . . . exactly.
I'm sure by the time I am thru with my 4th or 5th Airstream Project I'll know where I'm going from the start, but from "where I'm standing" right now (1st) I continue to have enough questions to keep me going in circles for the forseeable future . . . and yes, thanks for the help/guidance/opinions . . .
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:14 AM   #220
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Uwe,

Great progress!

Could you give a little more information about how you attached the belly pan? I think I understand that you did the edges first - running from the c channel to the main frame beams, leaving the center for later.
Carlos,
I used the old metal for a template. I cut as close as possible to the old pieces, and then clecoed it to the frame and outriggers. Then I bent the wrap up and cut slots to form the tabs to be bent over the c-channel. Some of the tabs needed to be trimmed before they would fit properly, being too long.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
When you put on these edge pieces did you first cleco directly to the main trailer length frame beams? And then when you put in the center pieces they were tucked under these edges and rivetted? This is what it looks like to me, but I could be reading the pics wrong. I wonder too about the front and back compound curve pieces - do you have one piece of aluminum that runs the entire width of the trailer in these spots?

As usual, thanks for your help,

Carlos Ferguson
You're right..I slid the center pieces under the wrapped pieces, not even trimming the edges. So the centers reached under the wrap, and to about the center of the outriggers. New holes were drilled and everything was clecoed, then riveted.
The compound curves were a challenge. I ended up massaging the metal with my palm to give it enough boe to eventually form into the desired shape. It also required strategic cutting of slots into the wrap to make it fit.
The old metal also had these slots cut. Hard to explain, not hard to do.
The wrap for all 4 corners are separate. The front is connected with the sheet that folds over the front frame plate, and the rear is connected by the sheet that eventually ended up forming the floor of the trunk inside the rear bumper. Btw., the wraps ended up not being perfectly smooth at teh sharpest turns, there are some minor creases, invisible under the trim, but they're there...did the best I could, I guess. The old metal was much softer, did not show creases at all.
Hope this helps..
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Old 07-19-2005, 01:14 PM   #221
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Thanks Uwe, that helps...

When you say:

The front is connected with the sheet that folds over the front frame plate, and the rear is connected by the sheet that eventually ended up forming the floor of the trunk inside the rear bumper

Does "connected" mean these compound curve pieces are later rivetted to the frame and center piece after they are cut or are they one piece of aluminum?

Thanks again,

Carlos
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Old 07-19-2005, 05:05 PM   #222
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcferguson
Thanks Uwe, that helps...

Does "connected" mean these compound curve pieces are later rivetted to the frame and center piece after they are cut or are they one piece of aluminum?

Carlos
Yes.No.
The wrap pieces are 4 individual parts. Left one spanning from the wheel well to the compound curve at the left front. The curb side is simiral, but is interrupted where teh step cavity is.
Left and right rear are the same concept.
The front belly sheet and the rear belly sheet connect the wraps, so to speak.
There is a second front sheet tucked under the very front one, which reaches the front tank frame. Two sheets cover the rear from the rear tank frame aft section to the bumper compartment.
One sheet is over the axles, this one was a challenge to install after the axles were in place, but it was flexible enough to sort of snake it in place.
The tank support sheets look like belly skin, but are actually plywood with belly metal under them. I made a small lip at the aft end of the front belly skin where it meets the fresh tank system, to deflect water and muck downwards, away from the front of the tank. The whole thing went together quite well, would have been even easier with some extra hands, but is possible to do alone. I used a floor jack and a 6in wide by 5ft long plywood remnant to support the skin, then jiggled it in place and secured it with clekos. I ended up with some very minor waves, but overall I'm very pleased!
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Old 07-23-2005, 10:07 AM   #223
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Disc Brakes revisited

Yesterday ( Fri) Murray ( forum id Creampuff) came to visit and help with the hydraulic brake line routing. We also got the brake and running light circuit worked out, labeled and tested. Big step towards towability......
Ran flexible brake lines from each caliper to junction brackets, bolted to the frame, and then ran the solid lines to connect everything. All in all not a terribly difficult job, just time consuming and tedious. I need to buy a brake line wrench today, my 10mm metric one is not a perfect fit, ever so slightly too large and ends up slipping over the brake line's hex just before getting tight enough. Off to Sears, I guess.
Bleeding the brakes is next. And then mounting a junction box somewhere under the tongue to clean up the wiring in the front.
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Old 07-26-2005, 09:43 PM   #224
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Uwe,

One last (I hope) belly question. I see the "strategic" slots in the belly wrap that you mention and show in your photographs - are these slots just past the last outriggers towards the front and rear?

I am putting together my belly wrap without the benefit of the old piece - I am trying to make a pattern first with some thick acetate material and only realized today (after trying for a few hours to make my acetate follow the compound curve) that these "strategic slots" exist.

Thanks,

Carlos Ferguson
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