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Old 04-17-2005, 02:20 AM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyfshr
Uwe -
When you get done, you're going to have the newest '63 on the planet!! Excellent work all around. I'm interested in seeing the maple you've been selecting. What are your plans for the inener skin? Zolotone like original?

FF
The maple boards are readily available at home centers and lumber yards.
Many customers look for nice and even light colored boards, while I look for the boards that have either flame, birdseyes, or curls in the figure of the wood. They're far and few in between the stack of boards, but fortunately often rejected by most customers.
The pattern in this maple really pops out once the wood is finished with a semi-gloss, or high gloss sealer. sort of like the top on a Les Paul electric guitar. Or Art deco style furniture, if you will.
I will use this maple only for cabinet stiles and doors, the invisible framing will be done with less expensive hardwood.
I plan on using paint on the inner skin. Either Zolatone or eggshell finish acrylic paint. The color will likely be a mocca or cream color. The backsplash in the galley will be stainless steel or coated aluminum, like in new Airstreams.
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Old 04-17-2005, 09:06 AM   #184
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Uwe

Just a thought - I used pine for framing - which is what was used before - primarily because of weight - hardwood is heavier. If you would like any detail pictures of the cabinets I built, please let me know.

Ken J.
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Old 04-17-2005, 10:21 AM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Uwe

Just a thought - I used pine for framing - which is what was used before - primarily because of weight - hardwood is heavier. If you would like any detail pictures of the cabinets I built, please let me know.

Ken J.
I would like some detail pics - can you e-mail them to me?

Thanks for the offer!
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Old 04-23-2005, 09:49 AM   #186
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Progress Report

Insulation done, all new wiring 80% done. Endcaps back in place, working on installing wiring/inner skin.
I decided to install the wiring and inner skin in a combination effort, because I forgot the exact locations of the electrical system holes in the skin. This is mostly for the new 120V system. The 12V will be of an all new layout.
I installed rough feeds for future solar, and also for a roof a/c. Should I run a drain hose to the roof a/c location?
The 120 needs 3 circuits, one for a/c, one for stretside outlets, one fro curbside outlets. I am looking for a 4-space, shallow depth 120V breaker box. No luck so far. Any input appreciated. I did source and order the 12V fuse panel.
I am going to try and post some pics.
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:34 AM   #187
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A 63 for me!

Greetings uwe!

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Should I run a drain hose to the roof a/c location?
The 120 needs 3 circuits, one for a/c, one for stretside outlets, one fro curbside outlets. I am looking for a 4-space, shallow depth 120V breaker box. No luck so far. Any input appreciated. I did source and order the 12V fuse panel.
I am going to try and post some pics.
I don't know whether they are still available, but when my '64 Overlander received its new circuit breaker box, it was sourced from Square D -- it was something that had to be sourced from an electrical supply house as the local homecenters said "no such thing" -- the local electrical contractor's supply was able to special order the box and delivery took about 21 days. The only reason that I hesitated to reply was that my electrical upgrade was done in 1995 so have no idea whether the part is still available. An independent RV mechanic sourced the parts for me and did the actual install so I don't have the part numbers or any more detailed information.

In regard to the air conditioner conedsate drain hose. The coaches didn't have factory installed condesate drain hoses until later in the 1960s -- the drain hose on my Overlander runs along the ceiling routed along one of the bulkeads and penetrates one of the roof lockers on its way through the floor under the streetside twin bed. The routing of the hose through the wall/cieling cavity would certainly save the interior appearance of the coach should you decide to install an air conditioner at a later date.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:42 AM   #188
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Uwe

I would think if you have any consideration for a roof top a/c - I would go ahead and install the drain line - easy now - difficult later.

Ken
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Old 04-23-2005, 10:44 AM   #189
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Thanks, Kevin.
We have an electrical supply house close by. I wrote down the SquareD name. Hopefully I can source this part quickly.
I guess a concealed drain line would be beneficial.
Thanks for the tips.
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Old 05-21-2005, 09:37 PM   #190
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Ewe, I need to pick up my '63 Overlander in Oklahoma City. I am very thankful for your post as I will be going through very much the same experience. However, I will be going through mountains. Did you really drive your trailer from Washington to California w/o brakes? I would like to know MUCH MORE about the brakes. Can I call you?
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Old 05-21-2005, 11:49 PM   #191
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Greetings 63 princess!

Quote:
Originally Posted by '63 princess
Ewe, I need to pick up my '63 Overlander in Oklahoma City. I am very thankful for your post as I will be going through very much the same experience. However, I will be going through mountains. Did you really drive your trailer from Washington to California w/o brakes? I would like to know MUCH MORE about the brakes. Can I call you?
You might find the following link helpful as it is a pdf file of a brochure published by Kelsey Hayes -- the company who manufactured the brakes on our early '60s Airstreams:

Kelsey Hayes Electric Brake Equipment Manual

I would certainly encourage you to be sure that you have operable trailer brakes prior to departing on an excursion that will include crossing the Continental Divide. Especially if this is your first experience towing a coach the size of an Overlander, it is doubly important to have operable trailer brakes. You never know when an emergency stop might be necessary, and the trailer brakes are a critical component in the equation -- they are also a necessity if sway should happen to be unexpectedly encountered (applying trailer brakes while maintaining pressure on the accellerator pedal will generally bring the coach back into line -- it is rare with an Airstream, but not unheard of). Fully loaded backing plates aren't terribly expensive and can easily be installed by any qualified trailer service center -- these brakes are not specific to Airstream as they were used by many competing brands as well -- A Prowler dealer actually overhauled the brakes on my '64 Overlander including four new loaded backing plates, resurfaced drums, and machine matched brake shoes.

Good luck with your Overlander -- I am sure that you will enjoy its versatility!

Kevin
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Old 05-22-2005, 12:17 AM   #192
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Question Yikes!

There is NO WAY I would attempt to cross the Rockies without trailer brakes! Especially with somethig as large as an Overlander. I live here and am used to driving I-70...there are some nasty grades, even with brakes and a trailer only 19' long. You may have another route planned...but at some point you will have to cross the mountains.

Be safe!!!

Shari
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Old 05-22-2005, 09:37 PM   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '63 princess
Ewe, I need to pick up my '63 Overlander in Oklahoma City. I am very thankful for your post as I will be going through very much the same experience. However, I will be going through mountains. Did you really drive your trailer from Washington to California w/o brakes? I would like to know MUCH MORE about the brakes. Can I call you?
Feel free to call me, as a matter of fact, please do. I PM'd you my phone number.

What I did was not a good example of responsible behavior. In my defense:
My trailer was completely gutted, no a/c, no propane, very little furniture, no refrigerator, no water, only 50% of the floor, no carpet etc, when I picked it up.
I would not have attempted this with a fully equipped trailer. I would also not have towed it across the Rockies; I know you did not claim that you would do this.
This 63 was very light when I picked ip up. I could lift the tongue on the ball with out much strain, nothing at all like a fully equipped Airstream.
It towed well, although rather bouncy.
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Old 05-23-2005, 06:43 AM   #194
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Found 120V load center

After numerous calls and fruitless trips to local electrical supply houses, and an intensified search of my premisies for the original old load center, I found a 3-space 120V load center for 40A service on e-bay, of all places. I bid on it and won the bid last night. I believe I was the only bidder,and got it for the opening bid of $ 4.99.
Right now I love e-bay! Sometimes I hate it.
This is one of the key components for finishing the wiring job. I have sourced and received just about everything else.
I could not resist....I hooked up my battery charger to the 12V supply line that powers teh fantastic fans - they work great. As expected.
The part that I'm not so thrilled with is the fact that the lids onteh fantaswtic fans sort of wobble when the fans are running at med or high speed. Looks kind of cheesy. I wonder if this isbecause I ordered teh flat lids, since they closely match the originals in size and shape. Perhaps the domed lids would have been sturdier.
Also, the previously untested bathroom exhaust fan came to life, spewed out a small puff of dust, and then merrily and quietly resumed it's duty. Veni Vidi Vici!
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Old 05-23-2005, 07:44 AM   #195
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Uwe

Does the 120v load center have old fuses in it? Just an FYI - old switch type fuses tend to wear out and its recommended that you replace with new ones.

Ken J
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Old 05-23-2005, 08:07 AM   #196
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Uwe

Does the 120v load center have old fuses in it? Just an FYI - old switch type fuses tend to wear out and its recommended that you replace with new ones.

Ken J
It has one old breaker in it, which is great, because I can use it for a sample to go and buy new ones.
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