A '63 for me! (many good ideas for your new to you Trailer)

[uwe]

Originally Posted by greg176

Uwe
Looks fantastic!How many square feet of flooring did you need?

I bought 7 cartons, with 6 1x3ft pieces each, about 126sq ft total.
Thanks to Murrays excellent layout, it was more than enough. There is better than a half a carton left over.

[greg176]

Thanks again Uwe.I just reread this whole thread and much great info for what lies ahead.

[azflycaster]

Uwe,
Looks great! Does the cork weigh as much as the Pergo?

[uwe]

Originally Posted by azflycaster

Uwe,
Looks great! Does the cork weigh as much as the Pergo?

No, it is quite a bit lighter. I am estimating 30% at least.

You know, now that it's all laid down, the more time I spend in the trailer, the better I like it!
I am approaching the part of the restoration/refurbishing that I was looking forward to from the beginning.

[tphan]

hi- I'm interested in the cork too, yours does indeed look really good! I see you have laid it down over entire floor, am wondering how all future cabinets/furniture should be attached? Do you just drill/screw right through the cork into the subfloor, or does everything attach only to the walls? Does this also apply to pergo-type flooring? I'm just wondering which way is best: flooring first under everything, or flooring last, fitted up to all cabinets and built-ins. I'll search other threads too- thanks- tim

[uwe]

Originally Posted by tphan

hi- I'm interested in the cork too, yours does indeed look really good! I see you have laid it down over entire floor, am wondering how all future cabinets/furniture should be attached? Do you just drill/screw right through the cork into the subfloor, or does everything attach only to the walls? Does this also apply to pergo-type flooring? I'm just wondering which way is best: flooring first under everything, or flooring last, fitted up to all cabinets and built-ins. I'll search other threads too- thanks- tim

Hey Tim,

I am going to build the interior to attach to the walls, but lightly anchor everything to the floor as well. Right through the cork. In areas where tere might be concern for movement, I will notch the cork flooring just enough to where a leg or brace can reach the wooden subfloor.
It is much easier and cleaner to lay the flooring complete, than cut around all the corners and trim up the transitions.
I had Pergo in my previous trailer, and it was a bear to make it look right.
This way the flooring goes right underneath everything, and even when you open a cabinet door, there will be finished flooring underneath it. The cork is also an excellent noise suppressor and insulating material, which was another reason I went everywhere with it.
The only places that I did not lay the flooring is under the shower tub and under the air conditioner. ( My a/c lives under the bed)

[zoeb nj]

the cork looks just beautiful=-=-and not too difficult to lay from the looks of it--great job.


I'm also intrigued by the silver sponging on your walls--it's an interesting thing to do--i wish i could get a better idea of what it actually looks like in person, though...

[A-Merry-Can]

Originally Posted by uwe

I am approaching the part of the restoration/refurbishing that I was looking forward to from the beginning.

cabinetry? i CAN'T wait to get there. that's what got me interested in going the full distance in the first place! can't wait to see what you come up with!

jordan

[uwe]

Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can

cabinetry? i CAN'T wait to get there. that's what got me interested in going the full distance in the first place! can't wait to see what you come up with!

jordan

Me neither!

[uwe]

Originally Posted by zoeb nj

the cork looks just beautiful=-=-and not too difficult to lay from the looks of it--great job.


I'm also intrigued by the silver sponging on your walls--it's an interesting thing to do--i wish i could get a better idea of what it actually looks like in person, though...

The cork is definitely a great flooring product, in my opinion. I read all the specs, and it seems near ideal for use in a mobile environment.
As for the sponging, it turned out great. I wish I would have added more glaze, to make the silver more transparent. Instead, if I do find it too intense after the furnishings are built and installed, then I can mix some of the base paint with some glaze and tone it down by sponging over it lightly again. Lots of options, most of which look great.

Thanks for the compliment.

[Over59]

I used the exact same product in the 68 Caravel. I ran it across the trailer rather than the length.
Where are your CCD walls?

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Over59

Where are your CCD walls?

I decided to paint the walls, instead of stripping them to raw aluminum.
The plan is to use stainless steel for the galley wall/backsplash, refrigerator door, shower walls, and perhaps the counter top in the bath. I love the CCD interiors, but wanted to stay a bit closer to the 60's in this one. Therefore, minimal use of exposed metal.

[fastrob]

"The only places that I did not lay the flooring is under the shower tub and under the air conditioner. ( My a/c lives under the bed)"

Uwe,

We saw the roughed in a/c. What unit did you choose to go with?
Do you have a manifold to distribute the cold air from the roof?

The key problem with anything other than a roof a/c is the distribution of cold air. How have you solved this dilema?

Thanks for posting your progress. It is nice to see an artist at work.

fastrob

[uwe]

Originally Posted by Fast Rob

"The only places that I did not lay the flooring is under the shower tub and under the air conditioner. ( My a/c lives under the bed)"

Uwe,

We saw the roughed in a/c. What unit did you choose to go with?
Do you have a manifold to distribute the cold air from the roof?

The key problem with anything other than a roof a/c is the distribution of cold air. How have you solved this dilema?

Thanks for posting your progress. It is nice to see an artist at work.

fastrob

I have modified the 16000btu unit to exhaust to the sides, instead of the front. The air will travel through two 4in insulated ducts to registers in the front and also the bedroom. The ducting is very flexible, and can easily run in unused spaces behind the galley sink etc.
I will have to fabricate ducting to run inside the overhead bins on the street side to get air to the roof level. I feel this is important since cold air sinks to the floor.
I have ran the a/c already, without any registers, having the flexible ducting only,and it works great! Sweater time after 15 minutes on high.
I will try and remember to document the a/c routing with pictures.

[uwe]

I am thinking of using flexible low presure LP lines to connect appliances to the supply line under the belly. Has anyone done this, or is it beneficial to run copper all the way to the appliance?
My refrigerator will be on a wooden slide, so that I can easily move it in and out for service, since I don't want to cut an access hole in the skin.
The access will be through the side of the cabinet.
This, of course, makes necessary a flexible gas connection for the fridge supply line.
But at the same time, I was thinking that flex lines for the stove, catalytic heater, and water heater might be a good idea also.
Any pro's or con's?

[thenewkid64]

First off you will need to go with rubber or neoprene hose and fittings. The metal flex lines that are used for Home Gas are not UL certified for use in an RV. The vibration can cause the flex points to leak IIRC. So I would run the coiled copper tubing like they use on the newer models. IIRC yours had black pipe for the main distribution, right?

Once you get to the internal connection you could switch to flex lines, but to make sure they are well done I would go to a hydraulic hose manufacturer and see what they can make up for you. They will have all the different fittings and ends.

This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it

[uwe]

Originally Posted by thenewkid64

First off you will need to go with rubber or neoprene hose and fittings. The metal flex lines that are used for Home Gas are not UL certified for use in an RV. The vibration can cause the flex points to leak IIRC. So I would run the coiled copper tubing like they use on the newer models. IIRC yours had black pipe for the main distribution, right?

Once you get to the internal connection you could switch to flex lines, but to make sure they are well done I would go to a hydraulic hose manufacturer and see what they can make up for you. They will have all the different fittings and ends.

This advice is worth exactly what you paid for it

Brett,

I was thinking copper under the belly pan, to the point where the line enters the trailer. Then go go to the low pressure rubber flex lines available from RV supply stores. I have removed the original rusted gas pipe and discarded it last year. So I will be running all new copper under the trailer as supply and distribution lines.

[Ken J]

Uwe

If your talking about those metal flex lines - its a no no in a trailer or anything that vibrates. You should use copper to the appliance. The only place you can use any sort of flex line are rubber lines from the tanks to the supply line. Also make sure you use copper (I think its schedule K) rated for gas.

Regards

Ken J

[uwe]

Got the refrigerator mounted today, complete with muffin fans inside the fridge scoop. Also finally got the rest of the insulation put in. Some over the A/C, the rest over the wheel wells. The pic with teh a/c shows teh modification to the unit, to accept ducting. Next is cleaning up the 12V electrical and then start in on the plumbing.

[uwe]

What about these:
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newsto...BA958540A69635

Not trying to be stubborn, just imagining appliance shuddering down the road, copper line having little or no give, and all the while the stresses end up at the connections. Can't be that good. I had to redo a bunch of connections on the 71 Tradewind.
Are those in the link above legal?