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Old 03-17-2005, 11:21 AM   #169
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VERY NICE work!
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Old 03-18-2005, 11:04 PM   #170
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I was able to spend some time this afternoon, bucking rivets on the trailer. A friend came down from LA to lend a hand. We got the curbside lower skin riveted on now, and the wheel well attached as well. I still have to do some adjustments to the door frame, set the rivets that hold the skin tot eh floor channel,and apply sealer to everything. But the skin is on, and it came out looking excellent. Makes me want to reskin some other areas as well. We'll see....
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:38 AM   #171
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Uwe, how does that AC vent. It's the KoolCat? I've be thinking hard on it as well but cann't tell from the online info were the holes in the trailer need to be, side, bottom, ??
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:42 AM   #172
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Uwe

Thank you so much for keep us posted. I am sooooo excited about your progress - don't know who is having more fun at this point - you seeing this great project move along or us getting to watch.

Question - you have had several "bucking" partners - how long does it take for the bucker to come up to speed - have you practiced with each one before you start on the trailer - or are you comfortable enough to just go for it.

Ken J.
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Old 03-19-2005, 08:58 AM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
Uwe, how does that AC vent. It's the KoolCat? I've be thinking hard on it as well but cann't tell from the online info were the holes in the trailer need to be, side, bottom, ??
Over,
I believe the Cool Cat does not have enough cooling capacity to use in the Overlander. My choices are either a 15000btu 120V window unit that's modified to sit on the floor under the bed, or a Duo Therm small basement A/C, mounted in the same location.
A duct must be provided for the unit to draw fresh air from the bottom of the coach, similar to a refrigerator vent, but capable of more air volume.
Air exhaust would be through the side of the skin. Cold air ducts connect to the housing at different places. I have not tackled this part of the thought process completely. I would like to use the window A/C, because I already own it. It was used 1 summer to cool down my workshop before I moved my business to a different location. It is quiet and quite powerful. It is the biggest unit to still run on 120V. Both units weigh in at about 80-90lbs, if I remember correctly. The window A/C will have to be modified substantially, of course.
Here is a link of the rv alternative:
https://www.rvpartsoutlet.com/newsto...C8A1F8154C41FF
I don't have much info on the window unit, other than it's similar in size.
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Old 03-19-2005, 09:05 AM   #174
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken J
Uwe

Thank you so much for keep us posted. I am sooooo excited about your progress - don't know who is having more fun at this point - you seeing this great project move along or us getting to watch.

Question - you have had several "bucking" partners - how long does it take for the bucker to come up to speed - have you practiced with each one before you start on the trailer - or are you comfortable enough to just go for it.

Ken J.
Ken,
Good point. Somehow it always works out just great, though. It must not be very difficult to get a rivet to set good and tight. So far I am very pleased with the rivet work.
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Old 03-19-2005, 05:50 PM   #175
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It's looking like the roof for the AC. I don't like all the "engineering" involved with the basement units.

I looked at my interior roof and indeed it is flat where the vents are located. I think the 59 - 63 are the same like that?
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:22 PM   #176
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Not sure..

Quote:
Originally Posted by Over59
It's looking like the roof for the AC. I don't like all the "engineering" involved with the basement units.

I looked at my interior roof and indeed it is flat where the vents are located. I think the 59 - 63 are the same like that?
I don't know where it would mount on my roof. I've been up there, installing the fantastic vents, and the only place I could imagine would be the center vent area near the galley ceiling. I suppose Airstream has installation instructions for the older coaches still available.
My main reasons for the use of a "basement" unit of sorts is that I like the idea of the low center of gravity, and the clean look of an undisturbed roof line.
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Old 03-20-2005, 12:35 PM   #177
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Re-skin completed

Well, almost. I still have to trim the ends of the wheel cutouts, where they meet the belly wrap, and apply sealer to the inside of all the new seams.
My trailer had an accident sometime in it's former life, which left the streetside wheel hoousing slightly crumbled, and also bent the 2nd vertical rib by about 1.5 inches at the worst spot. I was unable to straighten out the rib, it simply would not budge. So, since it's behind the refrigerator/pantry area, I deceide to do a cheater rib. I cut some .032 aluminum, bent it into an angle, and cut slots with my nibbler in one side of the flange. This allows the channel to conform to the outer skin, and be pop riveted to the damaged vertical rib. From the outside, it is completely invisible. The inside, although not perfect as I wish it was, will be hidden behind the cabinetry.
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Old 04-15-2005, 08:48 PM   #178
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Insulation

Update:
Played with insulation this week, after major cleanup and complete interior skin removal. Took out everything, including the end caps. I walked them right out the door, put them on my hunched back, like a turtle.
I followed Malcolms example on the insulation. Take a look:
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Old 04-15-2005, 09:03 PM   #179
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Of course I had to try a little compounding. Here the result so far:
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:14 AM   #180
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Uwe

It really makes my day to see your updates. I see you decided to use the foil stuff - is it pretty quiet when its all on?

You do such nice work - your a real inspiration - I get by on my 58 this week!

Ken J.
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Old 04-16-2005, 08:45 AM   #181
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Ken,
Thanks for the kind words.
I am not sure yet of the acoustical qualities of the Reflectix insulation, but so far it sounds like it just might have a slight sound deadening effect.
My plan is to install thin automotive sound panels on the inside of the skin, whereever there is no furniture covering the inside skin. That'll do it.
The inside of the inner skin has a clear outline where the ribs are, so this would be easy to do.
I have received most of my 12V wiring materials last week also Now I am just waiting for some more grommets. ( And more time to do it)
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Old 04-16-2005, 10:01 AM   #182
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Uwe -
When you get done, you're going to have the newest '63 on the planet!! Excellent work all around. I'm interested in seeing the maple you've been selecting. What are your plans for the inener skin? Zolotone like original?

FF
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