2018 Globetrotter Electric Stabilizer Deployment Instructions?

[jcl]

Originally Posted by Kodiak2006

There is only one motor - there is no current sensing detector in the circuit. It is simply operator control by visual operation. Wishing for a different solution does not change the reality of the operation on the existing trailer.

You must have a different system than the OP, who reported having two motors.

Whether it is one or two motors, the description provided above of a floating channel that works to balance the load would make sense. Have you checked yours to see if the anchor point at the inboard end of the lead screw moves laterally?

[ddrg]

Here's an update - I guess I'll be calling someone on Monday.

I looked under the back of our Globetrotter tonight and discovered two (2) "BAL RV Products Group" Powered 'C' Type Stabilizing Jacks. The model number may be 21100005. (BAL RV Products Group is a brand of Norco Industries.) As I previously wrote, both stabilizers are wired to one switch.

According to the BAL installation manual (http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ma...k%20Manual.pdf), by implication, it is expected that each stabilizer motor be controlled independently by its own switch:

Existing system with only one switch: If you plan on installing both switches at the original, single switch location, the existing hole will need to be enlarged. Refer to suggestions in Step 1A for guidance on cutting the hole. In either switch mounting situation, a second wire (not included) will be added from the second switch to the included 12v breaker to the Jack assembly (Fig 8).

BTW, I don't know if this is a situation unique to our Globetrotter, as I've written before that it is a one of a kind build.

Thanks... Duncan

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by Hans627

Me too (curious about the operation but I don't have a GT on order)!

I am even more curious now because, as of today, I too have a Globetrotter on order!

[jec1]

We purchased a 2018 Globetrotter last November, and just got home after putting about 6500 miles on it. I agree if you follow the instructions is the manual, only one side of the jack will make contact. So, in uneven (side to side) situations, I ended up just holding the switch down, then the high side jack would make contact and "stall out", then the other side jack would continue moving down. "Stall out" means I would hear the one jack struggle for a couple of seconds, then it would stop and the other jack would pick up normal speed until it made contact and stalled out. This action does raise the trailer an inch or two. I believe the jacks have one motor for both sides, but I would have to confirm that. I did this for at least 20 campground stops, and they are still working fine.

[Hans627]

Originally Posted by jec1

We purchased a 2018 Globetrotter last November, and just got home after putting about 6500 miles on it. I agree if you follow the instructions is the manual, only one side of the jack will make contact. So, in uneven (side to side) situations, I ended up just holding the switch down, then the high side jack would make contact and "stall out", then the other side jack would continue moving down. "Stall out" means I would hear the one jack struggle for a couple of seconds, then it would stop and the other jack would pick up normal speed until it made contact and stalled out. This action does raise the trailer an inch or two. I believe the jacks have one motor for both sides, but I would have to confirm that. I did this for at least 20 campground stops, and they are still working fine.

Thanks jec1!

Sounds like how they should work and gives me a little piece of mind in that regard.

Also, I see this is your first post. It's great to have you on the forum and already helping others. Welcome aboard!

[aftermath]

Originally Posted by ddrg

The instructions that you posted suggest that in the case of uneven ground, once one stabilizer of either the front or back pair touches down, then power should be interrupted, implying that you manually crank down the other stabilizer.

Originally Posted by ddrg

Thanks mojoe7009!

I don't have problems with front to back leveling. My question is about side to side leveling.

Thanks... Duncan

Duncan, I think this is a case where you are trying hard to overthink things. Once one touches down the power is interrupted which leads you to make the comment that "implying" something about manually cranking the other side down. No, it doesn't imply that. I don't have one of these systems but I do have a friend that does. It works remarkably well.

And, a friendly reminder, you don't level side to side using your stabilizers. I am sure you are aware of this.

And, lastly, think about a company who charges $90K for a trailer deciding to install a power stabilizing system that would require you to manually crank down two of the 4 stabilizers. I am not sure that would be a big seller.

I am envious of your new trailer. Was never a fan of the International line because of the sliding overhead storage lockers. I think the new GT line is going to be a huge hit. You are going to enjoy your new trailer.

Best wishes

[rmkrum]

Hm. I tend to prefer sliding lockers. A door that tilts out and up would be a ‘smack in the face” hazard for me, and unreachable for DW!

[Kodiak2006]

Originally Posted by mojoe7009

Then the instructions in the GT manual are clearly in error.

I can only say what i have experienced from my on-hand experience. There is no magic in the system. Any difference between the two sides, must be addressed manually by the user. There are plenty of cations related to not lifting the trailer with the stabilizer jacks.

[jcl]

Originally Posted by Kodiak2006

I can only say what i have experienced from my on-hand experience. There is no magic in the system. Any difference between the two sides, must be addressed manually by the user. There are plenty of cations related to not lifting the trailer with the stabilizer jacks.

Are your stabilizers the same model as the OP noted? You said only one motor, but he has two.

[Rocinante]

#1: Call your dealer or The mothership and ask. Please do report back.
#2: For the moment, I am pleased to have a simpler, manual, solution on Rocinante. We just use a battery-powered drill on our stabilizers.

[Kodiak2006]

Originally Posted by jcl

Are your stabilizers the same model as the OP noted? You said only one motor, but he has two.

Yes, 2018 GT: Power stabilizers are standard. The hardware is unique to this model (at least so far as I can see based on complaining to the TB and the Classic). There is a front motor that drives a pair of front stabilizers. There is also a separate motor that drives the rear pair of stabiles. The manual states (and the dealer emphasized): “they should be lowered until they make contact with the ground.” There are many cautions that they are never to be used to lift the trailer. Their purpose is to take the bounce out of the trailer from the suspension.

[ddrg]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

#1: Call your dealer or The mothership and ask. Please do report back.
#2: For the moment, I am pleased to have a simpler, manual, solution on Rocinante. We just use a battery-powered drill on our stabilizers.

#1 - Coincidentally, the dealer called me today, and they are now looking into it :-) The drag of owning a 'unicorn'.
#2 - glad your drill works - sort of defeats having motorized stabilizers :-)

Thanks... Duncan

[Kodiak2006]

Originally Posted by ddrg

Here's an update - I guess I'll be calling someone on Monday.



I looked under the back of our Globetrotter tonight and discovered two (2) "BAL RV Products Group" Powered 'C' Type Stabilizing Jacks. The model number may be 21100005. (BAL RV Products Group is a brand of Norco Industries.) As I previously wrote, both stabilizers are wired to one switch.



According to the BAL installation manual (http://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/ma...k%20Manual.pdf), by implication, it is expected that each stabilizer motor be controlled independently by its own switch:

Existing system with only one switch: If you plan on installing both switches at the original, single switch location, the existing hole will need to be enlarged. Refer to suggestions in Step 1A for guidance on cutting the hole. In either switch mounting situation, a second wire (not included) will be added from the second switch to the included 12v breaker to the Jack assembly (Fig 8).

BTW, I don't know if this is a situation unique to our Globetrotter, as I've written before that it is a one of a kind build.



Thanks... Duncan

Duncan - you have 1 switch for both the front and rear jacks? The system I have seen on multiple GT’s has a locked access panel with a switch for the front pair of jacks, and one for the rear. I must admit I have not crawled under the trailer to look at the jacks. Perhaps calling BAL would be a better source of technical advice. I will see what I can find out. I was specifically instructed to stop when of the pair of jacks contacted the ground. If the opposite required further extension, I was instructed to do so with the wrench. This may not have been correct, but I’ll seek further information from the MFG. Thank you for the supplier information. I could not locate that in my information package.

[Kodiak2006]

Originally Posted by Kodiak2006

Duncan - you have 1 switch for both the front and rear jacks? The system I have seen on multiple GT’s has a locked access panel with a switch for the front pair of jacks, and one for the rear. I must admit I have not crawled under the trailer to look at the jacks. Perhaps calling BAL would be a better source of technical advice. I will see what I can find out. I was specifically instructed to stop when of the pair of jacks contacted the ground. If the opposite required further extension, I was instructed to do so with the wrench. This may not have been correct, but I’ll seek further information from the MFG. Thank you for the supplier information. I could not locate that in my information package.

https://youtu.be/GGU_NVXPab8


You probably already saw this. They explain the capability of switching each jack separately. That is not how it is wired. I did not realize there were two motors: one for each side. That is an unique feature that is not on the TB. Unfortunately, without retiring it, you can not utilize that capability. (Unless there is another switch hidden somewhere I do not know about).

[xrvr]

I will get flamed for this, but are not these just another electric gadget not needed. It is not that dif to put down the stabs manually.

[Roadtech]

Originally Posted by avionstream

I will get flamed for this, but are not these just another electric gadget not needed. It is not that dif to put down the stabs manually.

If they don't auto adjust to varying terrains, I would rather stay with the manuals. I wonder if you can delete them since they are standard?

[Rocinante]

Originally Posted by avionstream

I will get flamed for this, but are not these just another electric gadget not needed. It is not that dif to put down the stabs manually.

After our very expensive post-warranty experience repairing our electric awning, I have to say that for us, fewer electric motors on any Airstream trailer makes it a better Airstream trailer.

[Roadtech]

Originally Posted by Rocinante

After our very expensive post-warranty experience repairing our electric awning, I have to say that for us, fewer electric motors on any Airstream trailer makes it a better Airstream trailer.

Especially ones mounted under the trailer...

[ddrg]

Originally Posted by Roadtech

Especially ones mounted under the trailer...

At least they are very easy to get to - albeit lying on your back :-)

[ddrg]

Originally Posted by Kodiak2006

Duncan - you have 1 switch for both the front and rear jacks? The system I have seen on multiple GT’s has a locked access panel with a switch for the front pair of jacks, and one for the rear. I must admit I have not crawled under the trailer to look at the jacks. Perhaps calling BAL would be a better source of technical advice. I will see what I can find out. I was specifically instructed to stop when of the pair of jacks contacted the ground. If the opposite required further extension, I was instructed to do so with the wrench. This may not have been correct, but I’ll seek further information from the MFG. Thank you for the supplier information. I could not locate that in my information package.

Hi Kodiak2006,

Switch #1 controls the rear street side & curb side stabilizers, and switch #2 controls the front street side and curb side stabilizers. Having a switch for each stabilizer would have made more sense to me. Expecting someone to manually crank down the non-touching stabilizer also doesn't make sense to me.

We don't have a locked access panel, so I have ordered a lock to replace the twist latch.

I'm sure once we're past the teething pains, it will be a fantastic trailer.

Thanks... Duncan