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Old 06-16-2008, 02:41 PM   #99
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2008 19' International CCD
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Smile Pleasantly Surprised!

After my initial disappointment with the quality of the 19' Ocean Breeze trailer I got in March of this year, I have been pleasantly surprised by how well the trailer has performed (or held up) during my journey from Arkansas, to Key West, to Rapid City, and onward through the Western Provinces of Canada, and downward through Idaho and Nevada. I boon docked in a lot of out of the way places using Forest Service roads, local gravel roads, and in some places, basically four wheel drive tracks. I didn't manage to knock any of the stuff off the bottom, a surprise in itself, but the trailer held up without any problems surfacing. In addition, God only knows why, several of the problems just disappeared. I had never been able to get the fresh water gage to show properly, but after the trip, it works fine, if not perfectly. I had a squeek in the flooring which has ameliorated itself. No additional rivets popped, and after a short visit to the dealer in Las Vegas, all are now fixed. I also learned how to use the rivet gun and will take the advice of the dealer to have one on hand! Lots of construction debris from the factory surfaced, but nothing broke or stopped working. Given the rough treatment, I can only say I am beginning to be impressed with the workmanship of the trailer.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:58 PM   #100
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Almost 2 Month Shakedown

The last update to all of you on this forum came not long after a quick first return to the dealer (see earlier posts). Before chronicling what we've experienced from our 3,000 trip, I do want to say up front that compared to the previous RV (Gulfstream VCM) our A/S unit has a fraction of the problems that we experienced with the VCM. We now have a return apt set for next week for our '08 27 FB Classic. Here's what we're bringing back to fix.

Second complaint: heat in bathroom is feeble - we're told that vent first goes to keep heat in underbelly tanks but I suspect there is still some obstruction, as what comes out is anemic and does little to raise the temp in the bath.

My bad: first time we left the FB window open for a couple of nights it seemed like there was quite a bit of resistance to closing. Yup - I pushed, it broke big time. Still have yet to determine what caused it.

In general there most of the curved windows are nearly impossible to close if it is a one person operation. Don't know what the dealer will recommend.

Something must be missing between the cable input jack and the TV - can't seem to ever program or get any cable stations when we've been in places with connections. Even tried substituting a different exterior cable wire.

Second complaint: Big awning support arms are very difficult to get snugged up and stowed without getting a ladder and climbing up to put more muscle on the arms to allow the wheeled retainers to fit into their cutouts in the awning arm. The front one fits fine but the rear one is a headache.

Plastic tip on awning tool broke off and will keep doing so unless the tool is modified at the business end to fully stick into the awning pull loops or the retainer wheel at the top.

Second Complaint: FB front window blind appears to be mounted correctly - upper and lower supports parallel to each other and top - but accordion fabric hangs at angle. Don't know why this wasn't fixed first time around.

One of the exterior non watertight fasteners is bent.

Microwave may be dying an early death - it shouldn't take five or six minutes to do an incomplete job on popcorn then shut itself down completely - doesn't appear to be tripping any circuits, tho.

Microwave door sticks in the closed position often.

Second complaint: toilet seat won't stay up and can close rather quickly. To be fair the dealer did attempt to "fix" this the first time by rotating the entire toilet a few degrees. That cut the lid flop down some but we'd better be dead level for it not to guillotine down, however, now your knees are more intimate with the lavy cabinet than is comfortable. I asked them in advance to check with the factory as to how they are solving this. My bet: they won't have an answer the day of our appointment.

Screen door latch losing some of the plastic coating; light rust evident.

As described previously, we experienced a problem one day with intermittent hitch jack failure. That led to research on this forum that revealed the potential for the bottom of the propane tank cover to eventually cut into the wiring assembly coming from the jack and the main umbilical. We did find then that the wiring indeed had begun to show wear. We added a plastic sleeve a month ago but it is clear that that isn't going to be the final solution. As suggested elsewhere, it's going to take cutting a small arc out of the bottom of the propane cover. I'm not sure how the dealer is going to handle this request.

One I'll probably have to take care of myself: From the start I have no idea why A/S installed a 2.3 gpm shower nozzle - it's way too generous of a flow for boondocking. I called Delta and they don't seem to have an answer - no restrictor is available. You can’t just push a button and have the flow stop either – you have to turn it off at the handle. I'll do some research on this forum and see how folks have dealt with it.

One of those "Why'd They Do That?" things... why'd they make the black and gray water tanks equal in size - it takes forever to even get to the halfway mark in the black tank. By then we've already emptied the gray water at least twice.

Ah well. It's been a good trip despite the hiccups and we know that we can easily spend months living in our Ag Sag wagon.

And we've also met some great folks with the same funny looking trailer as we have.

Bill
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:07 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post
Second complaint: heat in bathroom is feeble

My bad: first time we left the FB window open for a couple of nights it seemed like there was quite a bit of resistance to closing. Yup - I pushed, it broke big time. Still have yet to determine what caused it.

Second Complaint: FB front window blind appears to be mounted correctly - upper and lower supports parallel to each other and top - but accordion fabric hangs at angle. Don't know why this wasn't fixed first time around.

As suggested elsewhere, it's going to take cutting a small arc out of the bottom of the propane cover. I'm not sure how the dealer is going to handle this request.

One I'll probably have to take care of myself: From the start I have no idea why A/S installed a 2.3 gpm shower nozzle - it's way too generous of a flow for boondocking. I called Delta and they don't seem to have an answer - no restrictor is available. You can’t just push a button and have the flow stop either – you have to turn it off at the handle.
One of those "Why'd They Do That?" things... why'd they make the black and gray water tanks equal in size

Bill
So you know you're not alone, little heat comes out in our bathroom either. I expect they don't direct enough air to the duct for that side of the trailer, and it's because all ducts are equal when they leave the furnace—no adjustments possible. There's no way to fine tune it. By the time the air is pushed around the tanks, little is left for the bathroom. On the other hand, it wasn't cold in our bathroom anyway.

I don't recall if that FB window is like the others, probably is. They are made to break—no metal reinforcement around them to protect them. If the C channels that serve as (cheap!) hinges on the top bind at all, a recipe for broken glass. I don't think it's your fault. A/S doesn't like to pay for window problems even though the problem is a design one. When I had a window problem, I called the factory and got them to pay for it, but they only did so as a "courtesy"—they just couldn't take responsibility for a badly adjusted lock.

The blinds in ours bow out in the middle a bit. I try to tighten them a little, but they still bow. I think it's the lightness of the fabric plus the fact the windows and wall are slightly curved.

I'm interested to see what the dealer says about the propane tank cover. I expect they'll refuse to deal with it. It's been that way for many years.

My shower head won't shut off completely at the head and the water gets very hot when I do shut it off as much as I can. The shower also droops and the screw to tighten it won't stay tight enough. Shower head droop is common I think. I'm thinking of getting a better shower head; I'm unimpressed with Delta products.

I wonder about the tank sizes too. Why not make the grey water tank bigger and the black water smaller. Makes sense to me.

Good luck with your dealer, Bill. I called today to set up an appointment for warranty work and was told they'd have to call me back. I said that wouldn't work for me (I was going to be changing the oil on our SUV, and otherwise unable to answer the phone) and the receptionist got snippy: "what do you want me to do?!" I said I didn't want her to do anything and got a short "Ok" or something of the same—you had to hear the tone of her voice. Given the bad things I've heard about the place I bought it, I'm wondering if I should go elseswhere since I already have to drive 240 miles to get to the dealer where I bought it. How's the SLC dealer anyone?

Gene
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:15 PM   #102
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post
In general there most of the curved windows are nearly impossible to close if it is a one person operation. Don't know what the dealer will recommend.
I have the EXACT same problem and no solution yet. Sometime it is a major problem, and other times I can get them closed, but I have had to resort to DUCT TAPE to hold the windows in the closed position while I when back in and latched.

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Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post
Something must be missing between the cable input jack and the TV - can't seem to ever program or get any cable stations when we've been in places with connections. Even tried substituting a different exterior cable wire.
OK, I am assuming that you have the Samsung 23". I figured this one out, but I don't think you'll be happy. Look on the back on the TV, there are two F connect ports, one labeled CABLE and one labeled ANT with the cable plugged into it. If you want to watch cable, you HAVE to move the cable from ANT to CABLE. Also make sure the antenna amp on the Wineguard plug is off (green light OFF).

Stupid, ain't it? You could wire in a splitter at the TV or in the wall and have a second cable coming to the TV. I added a quick connect end to the existing cable to ease the switch over.
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:16 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ferry360 View Post

As described previously, we experienced a problem one day with intermittent hitch jack failure. That led to research on this forum that revealed the potential for the bottom of the propane tank cover to eventually cut into the wiring assembly coming from the jack and the main umbilical. We did find then that the wiring indeed had begun to show wear. We added a plastic sleeve a month ago but it is clear that that isn't going to be the final solution. As suggested elsewhere, it's going to take cutting a small arc out of the bottom of the propane cover. I'm not sure how the dealer is going to handle this request.

Bill
Hi Bill,

The solution my salesman came up with, rather than cutting the arc into the tank, was to raise the entire propane cover approx. 1/2 inch up by inserting a cut disc of hard plastic tubing between the works that holds the propane tanks in and the cover on. I know this would be better with a visual, I'll try to find the camera and then figure out how to post a pic. It works great, does not interfere with propane tank handling (it appears to be glued in place as we do not have to mess with it at all), and it keeps the tank suspended above the wires.

HTH
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Old 06-17-2008, 09:40 PM   #104
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Oh I had to chip in here, well after we brought our trailer home there were a few issues, mainly because we couldn't remember what we were told during the walkthrough!! Our smoke detector would sound off, and we cooked with F/F and door open, only to realize this week that there is a flap that needs to be opened on the outside of the trailer. We filled the toilet with a bucket on our first trip, tried in the driveway to fill the tank with the sensor still indicating empty, yup there is another door flap to fill the tank! Gary did some work to secure the cork board/mirror better using silicone (dealer recommended ) and some big pressue clamps. We still can't get the propane heat to start (again think that is from us not having paid attention) and unfortunately the a/c interior cover cracked, with the fan making obvious rub noises (to do it over again I would forgo the a/c and get a second F/F, haven't found a camp spot with electric anyway). Gary is majorly bugged by the door being off, but at least we can close it (couldn't when we picked it up initially). What I'm getting at is that we are overall pleased with just a few glitches that need to be worked out, too bad vancouver is soooooo farrrrrr away, it could be all taken care of so easily.
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Old 06-18-2008, 09:22 AM   #105
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OK, I am assuming that you have the Samsung 23". I figured this one out, but I don't think you'll be happy. Look on the back on the TV, there are two F connect ports, one labeled CABLE and one labeled ANT with the cable plugged into it. If you want to watch cable, you HAVE to move the cable from ANT to CABLE. Also make sure the antenna amp on the Wineguard plug is off (green light OFF).

Stupid, ain't it? You could wire in a splitter at the TV or in the wall and have a second cable coming to the TV. I added a quick connect end to the existing cable to ease the switch over.
I bought a splitter and two really short coaxial cables, but haven't hooked them up yet. If you go this route, make sure you get cables with the right male and female ends. Another TV issue—unlocking the lock on the object that holds it to the wall is difficult. We're supposed to pull a cloth cordlike thing to unlock the latch—that might work if the cordlike thing is threaded through properly. Otherwise, I have to release the latch with fingers too big for the space behind the TV. One time after driving half a day I found the latch released—I don't know if I didn't lock it sufficiently (slam the TV backward seems to be necessary—good for the TV) or it let go on its own. I also forget to turn off the antenna booster because (a) it's hard to see because of where it's mounted (out of sight, our of mind), (b) declining memory (your choice).

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:09 PM   #106
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Placitas , New Mexico
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As I read through this thread I'm seeing that some of my issues echo many of the others that have arisen in the last year.

Our unit.... 2008 28 ft. Safari SE

D.O.B.... 5/7/08

Problems...

***Factory installed solar panels were never hooked up. Panels were mounted and wiring was never connected. It was just coiled and tucked under one of the units.

***Sub woofer was wired into the ceiling light switch. Turn on the ceiling lights and instant increase in bass! What's up with that?

***The dealer fixed the sub woofer so it comes on with the head unit, but when I play a DVD it sounds like a cat purring - a BIG cat!

***Refrigerator doesn't cool well on propane - works great on shore power.

They installed the crappy plastic lights above the bed rather than the swivel reading lights that have been in earlier '08 units. After doing a dance on his desk and singing "Blinded by the Light", the dealer agreed to change them out.

***The outside patio light is bright enough to perform surgery under. How about a 2 stage light - seductive and surgery?

***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch.

***A couple of rivets have come out in the interior.

***There is so much caulk (especially on the roof) that I called my broker and immediately bought stock in SIKA

***No signs of water or leaking - but then again, I may never see any leaks. After all, this is New Mexico!

***Rivets look fine

***Kitchen design is a C+ at best. It's the largest of the Safari series and you can't get both a microwave and gas oven like you can on the 23', 25' and 27'

We've only been out once so far. We're taking it out twice in July. We'll see what develops on those trips and I'll report back in.

Jim
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:44 PM   #107
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Deadbolt

"***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch."

Jim, I had the same problem and thought it was the door alignment. But I took the deadbolt apart (don't drop anything!) and put some grease or oil (can't remember which) on the internal parts. Now it works fine. A quickie fix might be to spray WD40 alongside the deadbolt into the door instead of taking it apart; can't assure it would work, but it's worth a try for a temporary fix. Why they didn't they put grease on it, I don't know—maybe I do, carelessness. Also the door has to be firmly closed for the parts to align properly.

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 01:50 PM   #108
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"***Door alignment is poor and deadbolt wouldn't latch."

Jim, I had the same problem .....

Gene
Thanks Gene - I'll do that. I think I also need to adjust the strike plate too.
Jim
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Old 06-18-2008, 02:08 PM   #109
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I finally made up a list for warranty work. I've yet to make an appointment. A lot of this will sound familiar.

1. Badly installed rivets—creased across the rivets and/or a half moon in the body panel outside the rivet. Most is on the door window. Maybe 50 rivets in all, but I haven't counted them nor do I think they will do anything about it.

2. Propane regulator—I'm unsure the red/green warning of little or no gas is accurate.

3. Stove hood fan door. One of the cheesy little locking things came off, I got it back on. I expect this will happen again.

4. Shower head sag.

5. Shower won't completely turn off at shower head and the water coming out when mostly turned off gets near scalding.

6. Furnace—some very slight gas smell at exterior vent; can't find leak and assume it's deep inside.

7. Gouge in vinyl floor.

8. Replacement roadside window over "sofa" doesn't open or close easily—C channel not properly aligned.

9. Exterior compartment door—the two wires that hold it level both broke off the door when I was trying to reach something inside. It's impossible not to put pressure on the door when reaching way inside unless you're very small or have arms two yards long; the wires are connected to the door in an ineffective manner.

10. Jack hot wire insulation wearing off under propane cover; wires should be rerouted.

11. Access panel under refrigerator binds and makes water lines behind it impossible to access.

12. Water pump filter is extremely difficult to reach and clean.

13. Task (swivel) light over dinette (street side) works intermittently.

Except for the window and gas leak issues, I guess I doing pretty well, though as Toyota owner, I've come to expect near perfection.

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 03:37 PM   #110
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Jack wiring

I am thinking of drilling a hole in the top of the coupler behind the jack to run the wire through. I think a 1/4" hole with a rubber grommet would work. I don't know if there is enough room though. I need to look more closely at this Saturday when I have access to the trailer. Right now I have added some "padding" to the insulation of the wire to try and protect it some, but since this wire is always hot, I still don't feel good about it....

Thoughts?
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Old 06-18-2008, 04:22 PM   #111
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Jack wire redux

Wayner,

I think the hole would have to be bigger and the bigger the more the assembly is weakened. I'm unsure what you mean by "coupler", but if it's part of the tongue that's pretty thick and hard steel to drill a big hole through. I used a metal pipe clamp over the jack wire and the umbilical, wrapped them in a lot of electrical tape, and screwed the clamp to the tongue under the propane cover (small holes). Works for the present, but movement will eventually wear through the insulation. The best thing is to re-route them and hang the wires from underneath and secure them with well cushioned clamps. I'll see if the dealer will do it under warranty, but I doubt it. There's another thread with a variety of solutions, the most common of which is the "mousehole" in the propane tank cover.

Gene
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Old 06-18-2008, 06:30 PM   #112
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I finally made up a list for warranty work. I've yet to make an appointment. A lot of this will sound familiar....

2. Propane regulator—I'm unsure the red/green warning of little or no gas is accurate. ...Gene
Is the systems status panel supposed to monitor propane levels? Mine doesn't. It just monitors water - fresh, grey, black and battery level. Propane is indicated on the panel but nothing lights up.
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