Larry, glad you saw that. These trailers come to us in Colorado with more than a 1,000 miles on them, something I keep forgetting when I keep track of the miles on the unit. There may be a break in the conductor inside the insulation on the jack wire on your Classic.
Gene
Thanks Gene, there was fraying and I rewired using sodercon connectors (male/female bullet conntectors in case I decide to re-route later). I'm sure the arching led to the motor shorting out. I'm just glad it occurred while I was going over everything. We're anxious to use it and have no regrets. That said, I'm generally saddened by the detoriating quality, workmanship and pride of all manufactured production products particularly when it comes to "detail". It's amazing what you find when you do your own maintenance and prechecks. As long as I discover and correct discrepancies properly, I'm a happy camper! Thanks for your input, Larry
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Larry & Sandy
08 Classic 30
05 GMC K2500 Duramax Four Courners Unit
WBCCI # 2460 AIR # 17259
Thanks to your post about the fire hazard with the tank cover rubbing on the wires, I mentioned my concern to Patrick at Colonial AS prior to our sked p/u. I was very pleased with the solution he devised:
He cut a bit of sturdy plastic tubing, just under a 1/2" in height, and installed it between the tank bracket and the cover structure. It works beautifully!
I agree this should have been taken care of by the factory, but am happy with the solution that Patrick came up with
I don't know how to do pics yet, but will try to post one later if it is needed to visualize this fix.
Good description and pics 2air. Also a professional looking modification. In your pic I see your wiring harness for the jack but not the trailer power cord.
Because of the contact I saw on both of my harnesses, I've double jam nutted the rod to a sufficient position so that when the propane cover is installed and tighten against the jam nuts there is enough clearance at the bottom to prevent any further damage. As always, I appreciate your valuable input. Larry
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Larry & Sandy
08 Classic 30
05 GMC K2500 Duramax Four Courners Unit
WBCCI # 2460 AIR # 17259
there was fraying and I rewired using sodercon connectors (male/female bullet conntectors in case I decide to re-route later).
Larry, there are so many types of connectors, I can't remember the names of them all. I think I've seen these, but can't recall whether they are waterproof.
Unless the batteries are disconnected in the winter, snow and ice will build up and might cause a short. Moisture can build up in the connectors and lot of rain can also cause a short to the tongue—which is the ground. It's best to replace the whole wire, although there are (or used to be) connectors that seal around the insulation at a splice.
All the solutions to this problem have a flaw because the wires move—any wire that passes through a confined space that is made of a material harder than the insulation, will eventually wear through the insulation. Grommets, where they fit, pretty much solve that for a long while. It seems to me the wires should be routed under the tongue and attached to it with plastic clamps. The jack wire should be wrapped in the type of covering that comes with the umbilical (I can't remember the name of that either). This may be overkill, but electrical shorts are devilish to find and can be expensive in their effects.
I haven't gone through all the wiring in my trailer, but I've seen pictures on the Forum of Romex (120 v) and 12 v wires routed through holes or over fiberboard without grommets or other protection. Sharp edges and electrical wires in a structure that moves and flexes bother me. What about the wires between the inner and outer skin that we never see? It all goes through metal part that can have sharp edges. Although I've rewired substantial parts of a number of houses, vehicle wiring is another thing—it's strange to me and much more complex in its design. With lots of expensive electronic parts and two different voltages interconnected in something that moves there are potential problems. Other than the wheels, axles and brakes and the hitch, electrical is the most dangerous component. Well, propane is another—all those pipes—do they go through the body without being protected? How are they routed inside? One really dumb problem that has never been fixed—the jack wire and the umbilical wiring—makes me worry about the problems I haven't looked for, yet.
I have read about Airstreams catching on fire, or people touching the outer skin and getting a shock. I don't think there's a lot of that happening, but it's still something to worry about.
I guess I sound like nervous Nellie. I haven't made the time to go through our trailer and look for problems, but I think it's worth doing (and a pain to do).
As has been the case with all my posts, this newbie is once again impressed and grateful for the response - especially to the problem with the potential problems with the wiring around the tongue jack. When we go to retrieve the trailer next week I will give the propane cover, the attendant wiring and more a good look. Thanks to all: 2air, Gene, Larry & Sandy and the rest.
Gene;
If what you can readily see is flawed, it raises serious doubt about what you can't see. I'm optimistic but have also become skeptical with some of todays products.
As far as wiring goes, I use heat shrink connectors, tubing and cold shrink tape exclusively. It cost a little more, but what you pay is relative to what you get. I use a heat gun for a professional job, but a lighter or other heat source also works. I've found the following link to be useful and with very competive pricing. Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies
Another item I've depended on are the weatherproof circuit breakers, 20 - 200 amps. I prefer the manual reset ones. If it trips, I want to find out why!
Attached are a few pics of the foregoing. With your background, this may be nothing new...but...just in case. Larry
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Larry & Sandy
08 Classic 30
05 GMC K2500 Duramax Four Courners Unit
WBCCI # 2460 AIR # 17259
Larry, it's been a long, long time since I used those heat shrink connectors—I think they were new then. Good to see the pix. The tape I'm familiar with.
An update to our problem mentioned earlier about the intermittent hitch jack operation.
Prior to picking our unit back up from storage we called the dealer (Geo Sutton) and all they could promise is a half hour reimbursement IF the problem was discovered to be in the jack (otherwise bring the unit into the nearest dealer - 2 hr away).
When we went back to pick up our AS from the storage yard we called a tech recommended by the RV park. I could have predicted what would happen: couldn't get the jack to misfire - went up and down everytime. The tech did expose the wiring and indeed, although not frayed thru, the impact of the propane cover rubbing on the wiring harness could be seen. The tech cut a piece of plastic flex (the ribbed stuff used to cover wiring) and gave us temp protection from rubbing.
The repair man also said that this kind of jack has a heat sensitive relay that will pop until the relay cools. It is possible that it cut out the day we dropped the AS as it was close to 100 degrees out and since the trailer is too new to us to have our hitch/unhitch routine down, we did have to play with it a bit to get the unhitch sequence (w/ Equalizer bars) to happen.
We're currently in San Diego and had no problem unhitching here but still don't have faith in the hitch jack given I feel the source of the problem was never confirmed.
Thanks to the pix and hints how to get a more permanent fix to the rubbing. We're going to be here long enough to find a place that can cut a small radius for the wiring to pass thru and at least minimize any future short problems.
We've had a couple little items that were fixed and a couple that I'm still scratching my head about (why did they put a toilet in whose seat scares the @#%& out of you when (males) use for the first time and it suddenly decides to descend. The temp solution hasn't worked either - swivel the toilet base several inches in a different direction.
DH has the same complaint. I was thinking of trying glueing magnets to the inside of the lids and placing another on the wall. I have no idea if that would work, possibly be too weak to hold or so strong as to grab everything metal in the bathroom and he's really gonna have a fit when I put my fluffy cover on!
When you use the jack are you cautious to stop employing the switch just as soon as it is all the way extended or retracted?
Well, to say that I am less than impressed with the build quality on my Airstream would probably be an understatement. First day of delivery, bottom drawer had completely disintegrated, necessitating rebuild by dealer. As time progressed, trim on sink came loose, which I ironed back on. Baseboard in hand sink area came loose, trim in bath came loose, all of which I beat back into submission. TV cabinet chose to swivel loose and cause trim piece between bed area and TV/frig cabinet to twist out. I fixed by purchasing 1" stair stock and cutting piece to fit in between, screwing tight. Several rivets in that area have popped out, one in doorway, one in bath. Door won't shut without slamming - no way to adjust because screws holding latch won't come loose. However, one was stripped during factory installation. Screen door sags on hinges - not sure how to deal with that as it won't adjust. Water gage in fresh water tank shows empty when full. Floor isn't solid, so sounds off with every step in center of floor. TV is apparently heavier than supporting metal assembly, so now hangs at a sag.
Contrast my year old Toyota Tacoma, a slightly more complex vehicle, with NO faults. This vehicle was made in America, California to be exact, by American workers, yet Airstream can't seem to produce a faultless vehicle. Days of forgiving manufacturers for sloppy work are over as far as I am concerned.
As to the jack, like most switched electric motors, I am cautious about running a motor beyond its limits
Bill
Kind of like turning off the vacuum when it has a sock stuck in it?
For myself it was a good tip for me though, because I had not originally known it would not turn itself off when the shaft was already fully retracted. So now I do watch it. Maybe more of a non-mechanical gal thang to be reminded and cautioned thusly.
Congrats on your new Airstream.
I have a matter of several weeks left to my 2 year guarantee on our 2007 and I can tell you I have used every bit of my waranty privileges and often. I don't know if I will ever get around to listing the issues we have had and my many many photos of it, some is just plain ridiculously haphazard. I think Airstream should concentrate on American made quality and not quantity because its reputation and our units are surely suffering the consequences.
I have a matter of several weeks left to my 2 year guarantee on our 2007 and I can tell you I have used every bit of my waranty privileges and often. I don't know if I will ever get around to listing the issues we have had and my many many photos of it, some is just plain ridiculously haphazard. I think Airstream should concentrate on American made quality and not quantity because its reputation and our units are surely suffering the consequences.
Wow Wheel, I had no idea you'd been having issues. Any corrosion? You should post it all to the 2007 QC thread if you haven't already.....
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Computers manufactured by companies such as IBM, Compaq and millions of others are by far the most popular with about 70 million machines in use worldwide. Macintosh fans note that cockroaches are far more numerous than humans and that numbers alone do not denote a higher life form. -NY Times 1991
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