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Old 07-10-2007, 10:22 AM   #85
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Dometic Quality Issue

This is not an Airstream Company quality issue (at least I donít think so) but on our last night out last week, our Dometic air conditioner stopped working. It had been working fine in the 95 degree FL day and keeping the inside at a comfortable 74 degrees. Then about 5:00 p.m., it just wouldnít come back on.

After checking everything I could get to without getting on the roof, we switched the unit off. We left to get some dinner, and buy a fan so we could have a tolerable night.

When we returned a few hours later, it came on again, but after cooling the inside down to the set temperature, it switched off never to come on again. We had a warm but comfortable night thanks to the fan we bought.

I called Airstream on Monday and they said to take it to the nearest Dometic Service Center. Thereís one only about five miles away. We go there next Friday.

Randy
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Old 07-10-2007, 11:18 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgodfrey
This is not an Airstream Company quality issue (at least I donít think so) but on our last night out last week, our Dometic air conditioner stopped working. It had been working fine in the 95 degree FL day and keeping the inside at a comfortable 74 degrees. Then about 5:00 p.m., it just wouldnít come back on.

After checking everything I could get to without getting on the roof, we switched the unit off. We left to get some dinner, and buy a fan so we could have a tolerable night.

When we returned a few hours later, it came on again, but after cooling the inside down to the set temperature, it switched off never to come on again. We had a warm but comfortable night thanks to the fan we bought.

I called Airstream on Monday and they said to take it to the nearest Dometic Service Center. Thereís one only about five miles away. We go there next Friday.

Randy
Just a thought, did you happen to check the voltage at your site? I've been to some sites at some campgrounds that the voltage is so low <100 that A/C units shut down or won't start up.

Jack
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Old 07-10-2007, 12:20 PM   #87
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Yes, I did check that. It was low but still in the green on my little plug-in voltmeter.

Randy
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Old 07-10-2007, 01:23 PM   #88
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Well keep in mind that if your little volt meter is like mine, it has an accuracy level of + to -10%. That's one reason why I also carry a digital model with much tighter tolerances. I'm not sure where the bottom line is on the green, but if you are on the low end of that, consider that potentially you could be actuality 10% lower. I forgot what the cutoff is for the Penguin A/C units on low voltage but I was curious if you had checked the voltage at the time the A/C unit wouldn't startup. I know the Penguin has a thermal overload switch in it to cut off things if the compressor gets too hot. Low voltage can cause excessive heat. I'll be interested what your service center finds. Thankfully you are still under manufacturers warranty on the A/C unit so Duo-Therm should reimburse an authorized service center directly.

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Old 07-10-2007, 02:15 PM   #89
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2007 Base Camp

I didn't want to post in this thread until I had a couple of trips under my belt with the Base Camp, but we've had four tows now (three that were camping), so thing have settled down a bit and I can make some comments.

Our unit is #9 off the line.

The first trip was just a 300 mile tow each way to my mother's house last November (shortly after we bought the unit). Nothing to complain about as the Base Camp tows great behind my 3/4 on GMC van. One of the tambour doors (CS, lower rear) fell out of it's track during the trip. Ben Owen advised me that they now put a screw at a specific location as a stop to prevent that from happening. I made the mod and it's been fine since.

Second trip, first camping, was a Mother's Day weekend trip to Pennsylvania. We had some leaky front windows and a leaking sink trap - both fixed pronto by our dealer, Colonial Airstream, upon our return. We had some issues with the Kelty tent, but some seam sealer took care of the problems. When we brought the trailer back to Colonial to fix the leaky windows and trap, they retro fitted the new rear door stays which took care of another tent problem. I posted quite a bit about this during the trip in the Base Camp sub-forum, some of which was posted when I was REAL pi$$ed off. We made a quick fix for critter control of the tent to trailer interface. I still haven't done a permanent fix, though I have ideas which I'll mention to the folks at Airstream when Liz and I visit there in early August.

Third trip was Father's Day weekend, also to Pennsylvania. Everything worked as advertised! I did, however, route my trailer light cable poorly when I first hitched up before we left the house and dragged it along the road for about a mile. A quick trip back to the house to repair the 3 wires that wore away and we were off. It was a good thing that I have a habit of checking the hitrch and light connections everytime we stop. If I hadn't checked at the gas station, it could have been a real hassle later down the road.

Fourth trip was back to Massachusetts for a family gathering. We slept in the trailer instead of the house (we had the most room!) and it was the first time we used it without the tent. Closing the rear steps was a major PITA because of the lifting straps, so the following weekend, I rigged up a block & tackle system to make closing up the doors easier from the inside.

We're going out for a three day, two night short trip on the 20th. It will be to a State Park where there is no electric hookups, so we'll find out how well the battery does with the fan and lights.

Other issues: The decorative roof tubes weren't well sealed at the rear, and rusty water streamed down the back CS of the trailer. I got up on a ladder, removed the screws that hold the flange, and filled the holes with black silicone before reinserting the screws, then sealed around the tube at the flange with the black silicone and it solved the problem.

The adhesive on the velcro that holds the sunshade to the skylight failed. I still haven't put new velcro up, but I suspect that will be a recurring problem as the adhesive doesn't like UV nor heat. I've been toying with the idea of using some metal clips to hold it in place instead.

The plastic bracket on CS that is part of the retro fit for the rear door stays broke and I replaced it with a padded metal wire clamp. I plan on making a copies of the remaining bracket out of aluminum, which should resolve the problem once and for all.

The open/close knob on the ceiling fan vent kept falling out due to vibration while being towed, but some locktite fixed that in a few minutes.

I have a design in mind to close the gap that exists between the trailer and the tent when the doors are open, but I want to talk that over with the folks at Airstream before I make the modification. If they like the design and decide to use it, I'd want them to do the work.

My wife has been looking into the front window screen situation and has a few ideas on how to proceed. Airstream did have a screen design that was put in a few units, but pulled back on it as it didn't work out well.

All in all, it's a fun trailer and very well built - no "buyers remorse" here. It's a new model, so we expect that there will be a few bugs to work out as the season progresses. Some folks have complained that the Base Camp is too expensive, but considering that many new pop-ups are > $15K and don't have half the capability, I think it's a very good value for the $$$. Ben Owen at Airstream has been VERY helpful and is genuinely interested in user feedback from us first adopters. It's a great product, and with the right marketing, should sell very, very well.
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:25 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
Well keep in mind that if your little volt meter is like mine, it has an accuracy level of + to -10%. That's one reason why I also carry a digital model with much tighter tolerances. I'm not sure where the bottom line is on the green, but if you are on the low end of that, consider that potentially you could be actuality 10% lower. I forgot what the cutoff is for the Penguin A/C units on low voltage but I was curious if you had checked the voltage at the time the A/C unit wouldn't startup. I know the Penguin has a thermal overload switch in it to cut off things if the compressor gets too hot. Low voltage can cause excessive heat. I'll be interested what your service center finds. Thankfully you are still under manufacturers warranty on the A/C unit so Duo-Therm should reimburse an authorized service center directly.

Jack
Jack,

The first time it shut off and wouldn't start, the meter was at the low end of the green zone. The second time (later that evening) it was solidly in the middle of the green zone. I'll post what the service center finds.

Thanks,

Randy
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Old 07-10-2007, 02:53 PM   #91
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2007 Safari Quality

After a few trips we have a Stainless Sink in the Bath that is Rusting and there needs to be a back splash,as the Decorative wall paper has gotten wet and is peeling off the wall.I still think the curtains are the wrong size as they just meet and as you secure the velcro the other end comes off the snap's. Otherwise thing's are good.
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:03 AM   #92
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Smile Report on our weekend trip

Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamer1
Going on our first trip next weekend. Will report back.
Completed our first weekend trip at a KOA in Maryland last weekend. First of all remember there is a learning curve and patience is certainly an asset in figuring stuff out.

Some observations: The grey water tank fills up in a hurry! We were there for 3 days and two nights and I had to make a run to the dump station (this after I figured out how to use the tank status indicator system). The little crank down stabilizers make a difference. Don't be lazy, put these things down in place and keep the trailer from rocking all over the place everytime someone (or large pet) moves. Nice touch by Airstream having the entry stairs right in front of the awning wheel (left of the entry door) in the back of our 2007 CCD 25'. I also can reach the little clip that helps to hold the awning in place. I only have to use the 4-foot metal wand on the far side awning wheel. Keep one of those little hand lighters handy for lighting the oven. Each time you turn the oven off you need to "re-light" the pilot. Using the little "fire starter" folks use for starting the barbeque is better than carrying a box load of matches.

There were no huge deficiencies of note. Shower and bathroom worked fine. The biggest deal was probably one of the window latches is difficult to close and so requires someone to press on the window from the outside in order for the latch to close.

Can't wait for our next trip in August!
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Old 07-11-2007, 07:46 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knunut
After a few trips we have a Stainless Sink in the Bath that is Rusting and there needs to be a back splash,as the Decorative wall paper has gotten wet and is peeling off the wall.I still think the curtains are the wrong size as they just meet and as you secure the velcro the other end comes off the snap's. Otherwise thing's are good.
I don't have the sink rusting, but I have the same issues with the rest of what you posted on my 2004. My thoguht was to install an alum back splash there as well, similar to that of what is behind my kitchen area.

As for the curtains, not sure what elese could be done. I personally think that for the price these are at, the HEHR windows should be history and they could then place the same shades as found in the Classics, but of course these are just my thoughts, who knows what the factory will do. I know that in October of 2003 I wanted the Classic/CCD windows in my Safari at the time of construction. I was told no, and about 6 months later Airstream came out with the Safari SE, which was an LS and CCD Hybrid.

As for caulking the basecamp, if it has the same alum as the rest of the Airstream line, DO NOT USE SILICONE CAULK. Use Vulkem or Silkaflex. Silicone reacts with the aluminum!
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Old 07-11-2007, 08:26 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Streamer1
Completed our first weekend trip at a KOA in Maryland last weekend. First of all remember there is a learning curve and patience is certainly an asset in figuring stuff out.

Some observations: -snip- Keep one of those little hand lighters handy for lighting the oven. Each time you turn the oven off you need to "re-light" the pilot. -snip-
You can turn off the oven and leave the pilot light on. Your control knob should be marked showing this setting. I wish however, that the oven had a spark lighter like the burners, so we wouldn't have to fool with this.

Sounds like you are having a good time. That's great!

Randy
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Old 07-14-2007, 10:14 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
hi craftsman and others

i think twink started one of his annual threads on this topic months ago...some where....

anyway i haven't purchased an 07 but did spend several hours inside a couple and went over both interior and exterior issues with my usual fine tooth comb.....

2 new classics and 2 new safari's with the special edition upgrades...one with the rear door....

fit and finish looked good...and on par with the improvements on 05 and 06s i've picked over...

the graphics look nicer imo on the 07s....
the classic have a new style wheel....i don't think it is made by alcoa...
on both trailer i looke over....
and this is odd.....
one wheel per side had a metal valve stem...
and all the other wheels had traditional rubber stems....
so on the triple it was 2/4 and the double 2/2...
i can't imagine why they did this...or if it was even intentional....
perhaps they are phasing out the metal stems...

several recent classics have shipped with brake lines that rubbed and leaked in transit....this has been addressed at jackson center, i am told.

the wood was very nice...now that it is hickory...also the carpet looked nice...different nap/color/pile.....anyway nicer....if carpet is to your wishes.

all classics are 'limited' for 07 but without all the bits from the limited package....and in blue trim/awnings...

the fixtures are antiqued brass finish...not real but stil they look good, and more substantial....

on the safaris the inside trim that i'd found loose or peeling on others trailers wasn't on the 07s.....but give 'em 5 months in the heat somewhere.....

body panels, rivets, trim and so on looked better to my eye on the 07s than most 05 and 06s i've seen/touched....

i think the warranty should be extended to 3 years and the padded ceilings are still and issue.......these should be changed or warranted longer....

mine is having issues at less than 1.5 years....

cheers
2air'
Its about a year now since we purchased our 2007 Safari and for the price its rather adequate, The worst items are the water release valves under the trailer as they are inferior and forever stuck and barely budge even with a wrench.Why don't they make them more accessable and of better quality? Secondly our dinnette one leg table is a disaster as it continues to shake and is unstable. I finally used some rubber to shim it into the hooks and we no longer take it down.Our counter top in the bathroom has a hole next to the sink. It was cut improperly, and our stove has one knob that will not stay on as the spindle that holds it is broken.The formica counter tops are simply cheap.These are all relatively minor items that we will have easily fixed at the end of our warranty period and now that I have had some experience with the product I believe that my Airstream is of relatively good quality based on the price. After all my car costs more and it also has problems. On another related subject, I would require another type of interior design for my next Airstream or motorhome. We definitely would require a couch and a dinnette but not with one leg.
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Old 07-15-2007, 04:12 PM   #96
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2airishuman:

"on the safaris the inside trim that i'd found loose or peeling on others trailers wasn't on the 07s.....but give 'em 5 months in the heat somewhere...."

I can confirm your guess, we just looked at trailers at 3 dealer in the Southeast and found the edges of tables, the trim joining the floor and the wall, and a few other places in the trailers just peeling off of the 2007s.

What really makes me wonder is why dealers in FL and GA leave their trailers shut on the lot all day- we were trying to get a feel for how different layouts felt but it was as hot as a sauna in each one and after about 45 seconds I really wanted to get out as quick as possible!

Catherine
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Old 07-15-2007, 06:13 PM   #97
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Airstream Quality: 2007 75th Anniversary 19ft Bambi

Well we have had our new 2007 out 4 times so far for a total of 22 nights, so guess we can comment on this quality thread.

I am happy to say that all is well, other than the el cheapo plastic pressure latch that they used for the curved door at the end of the bed. That broke on day 1 actually. Fire the guy who thought that would work Another member reported the same issue.

Thought we had a break light issue, but turned out to be a poor connection when plugging in the trailer umbilical.

No leaks at all.

Heater, stove, sink, pump, shower... it all works as expected (or better), and reliably to boot.

One rip pop by the bed. Whoopie dew..

Very minor trim alignment/attatchment issues.

Fridge works well, but tends to be a bit on the cold side (freezes stuff in the fridge section)... can we control that?? Uses about 25-30AH a day for the darn fan... oh well.

Thermostat is inside the enclosed bathroom... DUH!! Who thought of that (see the note on the curve door pressure latch)? Just explain that one and I'll be a happy camper. Otherwise we just have to prop the bathroom door at night if we need to use the heater.

Oh wait!!! Forgot one thing... that dang wierd buzzing in the sub woofer! Thats my only real complaint. It's not A/C hum either. Gotta find a fix for that...

Overall all thought we are happy campers! No smell of lemons in the air at this end! Thanks Airstream for putting the love in our unit!
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Old 07-23-2007, 12:57 PM   #98
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Exclamation RE: Dometic Quality Issue (My post #85 in this thread)

Last Friday I towed our Airstream to the nearest Dometic Factory Authorized Service Center, Giant RV World; Melbourne, FL. The technician ran through his diagnostics and could not find anything wrong. He reset the controller, and the unit ran for several hours performing splendidly. I asked him to show me how to do the reset if it happened again. Here is the process:
  1. Switch unit off with the on/off switch on the thermostat
  2. Hold down the top (Mode) and bottom (Zone) buttons.
  3. Switch the unit on.
  4. When FF appears in the display, release the buttons.
  5. Unit should now operate normally.
I hope that I donít have to do this again. If I do and it gets to be a frequent activity, Iíll be returning to the service center asking for a new controller. Everyone should take note of this procedure, as I couldnít find it in any of the factory literature.

Randy
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