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Old 09-14-2005, 05:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimlegs
So far, I have very few complaints with the quality. ...the LP gas detector is not getting 12volts. (I will find the fuse tonight to see if that's the problem. I know the detector itself is working.)
The problem with the LP gas detector was a blown fuse. It's easy to fix. There's a "hatch" of sorts just under the bed, removed with 3 screws. This gives access to the wiring in the front of the trailer. The inline, 1A fuse was simple to replace.
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:06 AM   #30
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Well hello all:

Sherry and I, Robert, will be picking up our Safari LS SE 28 footer in about 8 weeks. Will post here the results, and we intend to spend several hours at the dealer, before it ever leaves the lot.

In the meantime, I did not order the 600 watt converter, and think maybe I should have. I understand it would have been hard wired, as opposed to "plug and play" like the one below. What does everyone think? It is probably not too hard to call the dealer and tell him to have it factory installed, but dealer said they could do it also, and not difficult.

Let me know, and lets hope for quality control on our trailer. Its an awful lot of money for issues out the gate.

Robert and Sherry

http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=54
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Old 09-21-2005, 09:44 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenHigher
Well hello all:

Sherry and I, Robert, will be picking up our Safari LS SE 28 footer in about 8 weeks. Will post here the results, and we intend to spend several hours at the dealer, before it ever leaves the lot.
Does your dealer have any overnight sites on his lot? If so I would highly recommend that you overnight and have him address any problems the next morning. If they don't have a site, maybe a close campground. Its funny what you will find that can be addressed right away the next day.

For us it was a shower leak. We wouldn't have found that until our first outing. Instead we found it the next morning while showering at the dealer's full hookup site.

Jack
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Old 09-21-2005, 06:59 PM   #32
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I'll second what Jack said regarding the overnight stay at the dealership, if they offer it. By the next morning I had a list of questions and corrections ranging from minor caulking to a major plumbing leak. Most of the issues were taken care of before we left the lot. The remainder were done by appointment. In retrospect, I think I would have had more leverage on the appointment if I had waited until the next day to sign the papers.

There's still an issue with the calibration of the black water tank sensor. They replaced the sensor but the problem remains. I'll get it taken care of before the warranty expires. It's not a major problem, so I'll wait awhile to see if anything else comes up.

Congratulations on the new Safari.
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Old 09-22-2005, 09:34 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverRanger
In retrospect, I think I would have had more leverage on the appointment if I had waited until the next day to sign the papers.

There's still an issue with the calibration of the black water tank sensor. They replaced the sensor but the problem remains. I'll get it taken care of before the warranty expires.
My dealer works it that way. He doesn't have you come in to do the paperwork until the trailer meets your satisfaction. A great way to do business.

The good news for those who don't know is that the systems monitor panel has a 5 year warranty from the manufacturer. So you have 3 additional years to work with, although that doesn't cover any labor by your dealer. Did they replace the sensor or was it the monitor panel?

Jack
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Old 09-22-2005, 11:54 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OpenHigher
Well hello all:


In the meantime, I did not order the 600 watt converter, and think maybe I should have. I understand it would have been hard wired, as opposed to "plug and play" like the one below. What does everyone think? It is probably not too hard to call the dealer and tell him to have it factory installed, but dealer said they could do it also, and not difficult.


http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=54
If you spent money on the audio/video package, then spend the money on the 600w inverter, it will allow you to use your TV when you are NOT plugged into shore power. I asked for a price to upgrade my '05 International from the 400 to the 600 unit, and the price quoted was in excess of $1500.
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Old 09-22-2005, 01:08 PM   #35
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Lcd Tv

When I got my 2005 the converter wasn't an option. My dealer http://www.rogerwilliams.com/Special...-Trailers.aspx just rewired the LCD TV into the 12 volt circuit so it doesn't require an inverter when not plugged into AC. Don't know why AS didn't do it that way to begin with.
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Old 09-26-2005, 03:20 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jcanavera
My dealer works it that way. He doesn't have you come in to do the paperwork until the trailer meets your satisfaction. A great way to do business.

The good news for those who don't know is that the systems monitor panel has a 5 year warranty from the manufacturer. So you have 3 additional years to work with, although that doesn't cover any labor by your dealer. Did they replace the sensor or was it the monitor panel?

Jack

That is a sound business practice. We weren't pressured to sign on the same day. I just didn't expect anything to be wrong with a brand new Airstream. Let's just say it was a great learning experience. My dealer does have a program where, after you get any repair work done, you get a call from a surveyor to ask if you were satisfied with the work. If not, you can request a return call from the owner to disuss it. The family-owned dealership has a good reputation, and the owners and management have been very accessible. So far, they appear to be the only bridge across the rather wide chasm between the sales and service departments.

It was the only the sensor that was replaced. I believe I read somewhere on the forum that most of the problems with the false tank readings were with the calibration of the unit, and not the sensor itself. Perhaps I should find this thread and print it out for my next visit to the dealership.
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Old 09-26-2005, 07:42 PM   #37
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The originator of this thread, Eric 'Silvertwinkie', may find time to post the .pdf calibration files. T'ain't done yet. I actually found it yesterday in the original documentation provided for my trailer from Airstream.

Okay, I found Eric's thread easily. Do a search on 'calibration.' "Micropulse Tank Monitor Calibration" is one of the top returns on that search. Post there if you are still in need after reviewing your 3-hole binder of individual product brochures.
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Old 09-26-2005, 10:57 PM   #38
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Calibration Links

Quote:
Originally Posted by Canoe stream
The originator of this thread, Eric 'Silvertwinkie', may find time to post the .pdf calibration files.
Eric has passed these items on to me and I have uploaded them to the Greater St. Louis' WBCCI web site. Here is a link to the calibration thread and the subsequent links to the PDF files.

Link to Calibration Thread

Regards,

Jack
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:41 AM   #39
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Thanks Jack, Eric -- hope all is well!

Okay, I've been wanting to get this done -- we picked up our trailer almost 3 weeks ago and had it out 4 nights for a shakedown cruise. We've been romancing it in the storage garage since then but are about to take it out again for 6 days starting soon. We have about another month and will have to winterize -- it's occasionally getting below 40F at night already.

I would say quality is pretty darned good. Fit and finish, mechanicals, decor are what we were expecting. The laminate used throughout seems thinner than what you'd use in your kitchen, is a lightweight option of course, and shows some very minor dings or errors on a minimum number of edges. We got the 'Midnight Sun' interior fabric -- it will not show every smudge, though I'm not sure how well any of these will wear in the long run. I considered the mock leather but made the intentional decision not to go that way (I believe Eric opted for this).

Tanks are great capacity but all three hang below the belly wrap by about 5" or more (will have to get a picture). They are in front of and lower than the axles. Will have to be aware of the middle crown on dirt roads.. I'm not about to take it apart but they appear to have the standard multilayer construction for insulation.

Real quality issues?
1. Lug nut covers: see 'Lug Nut - Tire' thread http://www.airforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=18460 -- this was a little unnerving when I aimed to retorque my nuts, but posed no real trouble to a good X-shaped tire wrench.
2. The front storage access door frame is slightly too small for the door. It binds at the top when closed. It's impossible to open once I have the load distribution engaged. I will have to rely on some silicone spray to keep it free enough to open by hand. I will get this back to the dealer! The latch bars don't have enough room to go to full vertical (I could fix that, but...). The accomodation for this problem is minor -- I just need to plan stowage before I hitch up. There is plenty of other outside storage with a 30" long compartment curbside front and a 40+" long compartment roadside front.
3. I ordered the twin beds in front for better storage drawers underneath, lack of tightness with queen, chance to go fishing with buds, etc. We didn't want the postage stamp of installed carpet that would have begun in this area, so ordered all linoleum. What could be simpler? But it seems the underlying floor is 1/8th inch or so higher forward of the junction and there is a hollow area under the linoleum for about 3" at this point -- will have to watch this and I have a fix in mind if problems are in the offing. Can't figure out why they'd have a different thickness floor starting there but Airstream could have been more informative on the impact of requesting this modification.
4. The standard annoyance of beds that hang about 4-5" off the side of the underlying platform. This is not a sleep issue but I really wonder how it will bear up over time.

Overall I am very pleased and don't see any significant problems. This is good value for the dollars -- and I'm comparing to my Argosy and most any SOB on the road! I can maintain from here and be very satisfied with the layout and an exceptional bring-the-outside-in window plan! Additionally, two herniated disks in my neck appreciate I won't be redoing the aft bath and floor in the old Argosy.
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:43 AM   #40
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Thanks for the responses and links. I think it'll help to have the information in hand when I take it in for work after I get back from Florida. Right now, I'm on the road and enjoying the Airstream.

GW
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Old 09-27-2005, 07:48 AM   #41
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Bob congrats on the new RV. Here a few things I noticed that I wanted to comment about.

The tanks that hang down....it is the same on the 25 SS as well...and you're right, on the humpback dirt/gravel roads, yer gonna have to be careful if the ruts are too low.

The lug nuts, I would strongly recommend that you consider getting a good 1/2" drive torque wrench instead of using a basic wrench. You'll need a 3 to 6" extender to clear the tires and wheel well opening as well. I suggest this based on what I read here and also what I've exp these past 2 years carrying one. I have a Craftsman, but really any good one will do. The reason for this is 2 fold. First, the torque wrench will torque the alum rims correctly to the proper ft/lb. Second, it will help you not overtorque the bolts which can be nearly as bad as not torqued enough, particularly since these are hardened alum rims.
For me, I carry a fully loaded tool box (about 40lbs). So a torque wrench to me is not that much extra. I'd also recommend a toolbox loaded with at least the basics (hammer, screwdrivers, pliers, socket set of metric and SAE, electrical tape, duct tape, band clamps, rubber mallet, needle nose pliers, channel locks, loctite, various small tubes of caulk, mortite, etc) for anyone going on a trip, but the key is that one has to know how to use the tools though, which can be one downside to the whole tool thing.

I'm glad that Jack was able to post the Micropulse files elsewhere since unforseen issues have come up in my personal life that required attention more than getting the server back up. At this point, it will come back, just not too sure when.

Have fun with the new RV Bob and keep us posted on how your unit holds up. I am currently working on getting a 2006 25' SS LS SE (man that's a mouthfull). If the numbers work out right, I'll post here what I find if I get the new coach.
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Old 09-27-2005, 06:30 PM   #42
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Way to go Eric! I know John Irwin has stated you are going to out-trade him. Yes, I have a torque wrench like that -- and certainly forgot to take it on our shakedown trip. Thanks for the reminder. A good post overall!

I just returned from showing the trailer to an old-travelin' relative and remembered a few other points:
1. As other folks have noted with new units, the Aquajet water pump is noisy to begin with and then not very well isolated from the floor (which serves as a sounding board). It's like an alarm clock if one person is up earlier than the other. Stay tuned -- I've got a couple Pahaska-type ideas... Any body else had any real successful solutions?
2. When you want privacy and close the room dividers, the catches are pretty worthless. I'm going to let the plastic relax a bit more but this will be a pretty simple modification for next summer.
3. And... the exit door head bumper pad is put on about 1/2" higher at one end than another. You might miss it if both doors are open but it is real obvious if the screen door is closed. It has sagged away from the interior wall in the middle just slightly and looks like it's only put on with Vulkem. Still, I might leave it for the dealer when I take it back for the fix-all.
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