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Old 11-29-2005, 11:21 PM   #239
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wow tom riley that's an impressive and depressing list of issues......

i'll solve one for ya.......the popping is outer skin expansion/contraction and is common. one would need to isolate the loud panels and replace them....i'm sure the factory would suggest this is a normal characteristic of airstreams...but i suspect it's more common on longer units built during the coldest weather. and as for the "scratches" they can be buffed/waxed away but that's not permanent so again the only way to remove them is to replace the panels.....a drastic cure.

as for returning the trailer.....your owners manual should have included a booklet on the lemon laws on a state by state basis. if you didn't get this i'm sure the factory would send you one. i don't think you have a stong case for lemoning, based on my understanding of how that works, but there are many state variations.

no doubt your patience for and confidence in airsteams has been tested. is this your first?

for me the only spooky-i-want-to-return-this-f-ing-thing issue would be the electric shock issue, which seems to have been resolved, although it reads like surges are still a problem.

you don't mention this but has your dealer been responsive to making repairs? sure looks like they have. if you have a positive exchange with them it might be worth discussing a "trade" for a new model at a very generous price.

without knowing where you are located it also might be worthwhile to take the trailer to the factory. using your well documented list of issues/repairs and so on, they could fix whatever needs fixing. the door for example is a real challenge but at the factory they've got a guy who does these door fit issues.

i spent 3 days at the factory this summer having them work through a list just about as long as yours.....and everything on my list was resolved. of course the day as i departed, new things began to appear and i'm planning another trip to the factory in the spring. my trailer was built in march/april.

they are pretty responsive in jackson center. of course they don't cover the time/travel/fuel to get there, but given your patience with, and have so many repairs/trys local....maybe they'd cover transport.

technically the local dealer owned the trailer and sold it to you with lots of 'final prep' issues so the factory may still see them as your primary contact.

anyway thanks for sharing your list and repair history. keep us updated on what happens next.

cheers
2air'
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:00 AM   #240
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Tom,

Sorry to hear about your issues. Here is some info:

I too have brushmarks on the streetside of the coach. I can only see it if the sun hits it a certain way. Issue is not on the curbside.

Door issue is fairly common. Door adjustment is possible, but you also said you had stabilizer jack issues. If the frame is torqued, even slightly by the stabilizer jacks not being deployed or deployed correctly, the door will latch as described. If I also recall correctly, the stabilizer jacks MUST be deployed before attempting to slide out the slide. If you had a malfunctioning one and slid the slide, unexpected or bad things could have happened. Just a thought.

Windows on the Classics being hard to open is a well known issue. Some folks have coated their rubber gaskets with some stuff that escapes me now, but several folks have seen this, if this is in fact what you are seeing. Annoying, sure, but at least the windows are sealing properly. If this is the issue, this should be an easy fix.

My pump also does a quick cycle at times. At first I thought I had a leak in the water lines, but in the end it was such a small issue for me that I just accepted the fact that I had some check valve blow by. I agree the pump when not primed or begining to prime, can be loud and have lots of vibration, but on ours it goes away after the first use.

The pop is somewhat normal, though hard to say if your issue is the same as most see due to temp fluctuations that are typical for sheet metal (or alum) exposed to the sun and then cools and the other way around. Ours makes some sound too, but not sure if your issue is what I've seen. If your issue is very loud, it could be the panel expanding so far and having some flex to it that it is actually detaching itself from the sticky stuff they put on the ribs before attaching the panels. Hard to be a couch coach on this one without seeing or hearing the issue happen.

A lot of folks have seen the fridge "flame out" issue in recent years. Most saw this resolved by Dometic and/or Airstream a bit ago. With electronic fridges, it should attempt a relight. I also think they engineered a shield, but don't quote me on that. Until it's resolved, remember to take the furnace filter out...or bad things could happen. This wasn't an Airstream specific issue, but more of a Dometic one.

I too had some sealer or something on one of my streetside windows....if it made it through the factory that way, the dealer PDI should have picked it up....but it was missed on mine too. Annoying, but an easy fix.

The rubber strip in my front window cover started to work itself out. Another easy fix, but not sure if your issue was the same.

The plate on the side, though not a big issue physically, is very odd. I'm no code expert, but if yours had the wrong badge, I am sure others could too and this could in fact be a big problem if they have misbadged other coaches because the info on that plate is fairly important. Ours was fine, as are most...this one though I found very odd.

I had some binding issue with our deadbolt. I took it apart, put some white lithium grease on the mech and put it back together. It's worked great ever since. Now I am not saying they are related, but if your door is out of wack and your stablilzer jack was on the fritz and you slid the slide, it wouldn't shock me that the lock too was acting up.

Our electric hitch jack also acted funny. It would blow a fuse if it was retracted fully. This was another easy fix (done when I was at the factory for service). Tech said, he had seen it before and fixed it in minutes. It may or may not be a manufacturing defect that is not Airstream specific.

I had several lower trim pieces delaminate. I thought it was going to be a HUGE job. When at the factory, it took about a 1/2 hour if that. The trim pops right out and is easily replaced. I can't tell which were replaced. Not sure why it happened, but so far it's golden now.

Tank monitoring system. LOTS of us have had issue with this system. I was put in touch with the guy that owns the company that built it. Sent me a new one, installed it, made it better, but I had some LED burn out issues and the tank levels still were not on the money. When at the factory, they replaced the unit and recalibrated it. So far, for the most part, it is dead on since my trip to the factory last April.

Several folks have come across the drawer thing you describe. I am not sure if this one was re-engineered or not. Some folks think the running gear is out of wack, while others felt it was a poor design. Jack Canavera (username jcanavera) on this forum has a 30' slide (2004) and reported the same thing. Not sure what he did or found, but I would send him a PM about this and other slide specific issues you've seen. One thing I can say, particularly after looking how they build the slide units is that they are actually one of the best designed ones out there. I'd find it hard to accept the dealer's answer that it's a design flaw as there are hundreds, if not thousands of Airstream slides in operation today.

As Air said, depending on where you are, I found the factory fixes met or exceeded my expectations. Not sure what dealer your working with or bought from, but hopefully it's one of the better dealers out there as there are more numbskull dealers out there than most may like to admit.

Keep us posted on your progress......
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Old 11-30-2005, 10:47 AM   #241
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Tom, here's my thoughts on some of your issues.

“Brush Marks” in clearcoat exterior finish.

We see some on ours also dependent upon how the sun hits the trailer. Walbernizing does minimize them. I also know that some of these marks are created when I dry the trailer after washing.

3. Entry Door requires excessive “slamming” in order to get latched.

When does this occur. Is it when you are set up and the stabilizer jacks are down? As Eric noted earlier, too much pressure on the jacks will cause this. Also putting out the slide out without putting the stabilizer jacks down first will cause torquing of the frame. My dealer told me rule #1. Do not move the slide out without the stabilizing jacks being down first.

4. Windows difficult to open. Requires a second person going outside and prying on the window while the other person works the opening mechanism.

This is common and requires you to provide some type of lubrication to the seals which the glass sits against. I use silicone applied with a rag to lube the seals. That takes care of most of the problems. The more frequently you use the windows and lube them the less you will have this problem. I guarantee you I will have to unstick them in the spring after them being closed all winter.


B. Excessive Power sometimes required to run appliances such as microwave, coffee maker, ceramic space heater, etc.

I'm assuming you are blowing the breaker. Mine blows when the refrigerator, air conditioner, microwave, and electric water heater element are all active at the same time. In most cases its the campground breaker. If you add it's more than 30 amps. Now you start adding in coffee makers, space heaters etc. it's just more load.
  • Water Pump cycles-on momentarily intermittently, is very noisy at times, and pumps in “spurts” rather than the normal steady stream at times.
Mine cycles occasionally. Usually at night maybe once an hour or two, and under conditions of dropping outside temperatures. I've pretty much considered it a situation where the water pressure drops a little due to the water contracting as it cools down. Supposedly there is an adjustment on the pump to minimize this.
  • When slide out is retracted after a rain, water runs off of slide onto carpet.
Yep under driving rain conditions and how your trailer is leveled, it is possible for water to collect over the slide out. It only has happened a couple of times with me. I now check the slide out top prior to retracting after rainstorms. It only take a second and I carry a squeegee on a stick and can pull any water off the top. It usually isn't much but the first time it happens its a surprise. In most cases the awing that goes over the slide out during its extension keeps that area dry.
Reported on 3/18, 5/26, 6/13, 8/22, 9/5, and 10/16/2005.

Systems Monitor problems

I replaced mine due to a burnt out LED. Both panels have worked well although I think some folks have different opinions as to what levels the lights should turn on at. That's why manual configuration is possible.

Several Drawers difficult to open.

Probably those are the ones that stay closed when you travel?

  • Interior mirrors do not stay secure in mountings.
The mirror that is on the cabinet wall by the slide out came loose during a spring trip. The top of the mirror is held by double sticky tape against the wall. I bought some tape and reapplied it to the top of the mirror. Mirror is holding fine at this time, but I can see where this might be something that might not be a permanent fix.

Water seeps onto floor from either under or around shower stall.

Took 3 trips for my dealer to fix this. Probably the most common problem on new trailers. I never got this fixed to my satisfaction on my previous Airstream.

Wood security “latch block” on rear side of slide out does not seat properly.

Not sure what you mean here. The block magnetically attaches to the locking lever on the slide out. When the lever is extended the lever presses the block against the wall thus keeping the slide from extending. Is the block not contacting the wall properly?
  • Refrigerator flame will not stay lit when traveling.
Was a problem on my '01 Safari. Airstream and Dometic have been going around on this for years. I know my dealer built a baffle that shielded the refrigerator unit which fixed my problem We have a picture in the '01 Safari forum of this baffle. The other fix is the furnace filter. I have no problem on my current unit.
  • Entry Door Deadbolt malfunctioned in the “locked” position such that no access could be gained into trailer.
I'm not sure whether this is when you are in camping mode or when traveling. I had some stickiness where I couldn't get the deadbolt locked but it ended up that the lock needed some lube. No problem since I have performed this work.
  • Slide out rubber weather seal came loose.
Be sure to lube those gaskets with silicone. I do this at least twice a year (inside and out) to keep them flexible.
  • Electric Tonque Jack inoperative.
Had multiple problems with this on my new '01 Safari. Dealer replaced jack and eventually reported the the original jack had an internal short.
  • Day/Night Blinds would not raise/lower properly.
I don't find these the easiest to use either. The string broke on one set in the slide out this fall. The dealer restrung it under warranty. I lot has to do where the string is secured to the trailer wall. I think the one that broke was too far to the side of the blind.
  • Drawers on either side of bed would not stay closed when traveling.
Mine have popped open occasionally. I'm not sure if it was because I wasn't careful in closing them. I've heard that some of the latches used were not of the proper strength to resist the forces that occur during towing.

My other complaint is the inability to keep the kitchen drawers closed during travel. The dealer has worked on this twice. When I brought it to him last month I complained again. He asked me to show me how I close the drawers. I just pushed them closed. He noted that I needed to lift the drawer and then push it closed. By just pushing it closed I was bending down the tabs in the front of the rails that provide the stop to keep the drawers closed during travel. I can see that but I don't like this method for securing drawers. It's way too prone for failure. I miss my Safari doors which had a positive lock on them.

There is no doubt you have had more than your share of issues and probably may be worth your while to make the trip to JC and get those things resolved that the dealer can't seem to get right. Eric gave you some good advice there.

Jack
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Old 11-30-2005, 04:53 PM   #242
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Air,
Thanks for your response regarding my issues with my 2005 30'SO Classic.

Yes, I may have to take the trailer to JC for repairs, as some of the problems still exist after 4 or 5 attempts at repairs by the Dealer. However, since I live in Utah, this isn't a short trip.

Yes, my patience and confidence in airstreams has been tested with this unit! I have had a number of RV's over the years, including a couple of older model airstreams, several SOB trailers, and two diesel pushers - the last being a 10-year-old Monaco Dynasty. This new airstream has given far more problems than any of the others.

Yes, I have the "lemon law" booklet from airstream. However, Utah has very weak lemon laws (none on RV's effectively), so I will have to approach the legal remedy from other aspects if I decide to pursue that route.

Thanks again,
Tom
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Old 11-30-2005, 05:37 PM   #243
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Eric and Jack,
Thanks for your replys. As I mentioned to Air, although a trip to JC from Utah is not easy, it may very well be worthwhile.

My "brush marks" appear to be similar to yours, in that they don't show alot until the sun is reflecting on the sides. Mine were there even before I washed the trailer for the first time, and look as though someone cleaned the surfaces with a stiff-bristle brush.

My entry door is hard to close all the time. I am an engineer, so I know about the effects of torquing the frame. Yes, it is important to have the front stabilizers down before operating the slideout. My stabilizer jack problem was resolved several months ago, but still have door problem.

My excessive power to run appliances problem occured while boondocking, using my Honda 2000i generators for power. Normally, I can even run the microwave on one generator while having the LCD TV and coffee maker on. On several occasions, the microwave by itself would not power up on one generator, and would barely operate using both generators in parallel.

One of my wood "latch blocks" contacts the wall at an angle, instead of laying flat against the wall as it should.

My bedroom drawers would not stay closed problem was solved satisfactorily with the installation of a second latch on each. The kitchen drawers generally stay closed as long as we close them completely, then push down on the drawer handle.

Thanks for the comments regarding the silicone around the windows and gaskets. I'll do that.

My mirror insecurity problem has to do with the mirrors mounted in the cabinet and closet doors. The little metal tabs used to hold them in place aren't much thicker than and aluminum beer can. As a result, they bend out enough for the mirror to become loose, just from opening and closing the doors and travel vibration. I had airstream send me extra tabs, so will try "doubling" the tabs for more strength.

Thanks and Best Regards,
Tom
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Old 11-30-2005, 06:05 PM   #244
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tom
i too had the really thin mirror/insert tabs. the factory replaced mine with a thicker style that had a more specific formed bend so they fit closer. no problems since. the replacements are z shaped, much stiffer and do not move.

i don't think using extras of the flimsy version will help long term. get the thicker ones. i would have done this repair myself but given i was in ohio i willingly let them do the 50-60 of these in the front and rear.

all of my windows had spray glue on the insides.....i think when they installed the wall covering they just sprayed everywhere and no one cleaned the windows afterward.....couldn't really see it on screended windows till they were opened. anyway i spent 8-10 hours doing glue removal from all the inside window surfaces....while i was pissed about this i just kept thinking "this gives me time to really inspect the windows/frames closely".

the factory has a specific silicon spray.....i think it's dow slip1cone....or maybe dupont...anyway most any non petrol 100% silicon spray applied to the gaskets will work.

was your trailer built during the shift to higher rated axles? that's the only reason i can think they would apply the wrong id plate.

a far more dangerous mislabel happened on mine.....they applied a "220 volt only" label to my shore power plug site!!!


cheers
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Old 12-01-2005, 10:01 AM   #245
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2airishuman
tom
i too had the really thin mirror/insert tabs. the factory replaced mine with a thicker style that had a more specific formed bend so they fit closer. no problems since. the replacements are z shaped, much stiffer and do not move.

i don't think using extras of the flimsy version will help long term. get the thicker ones. i would have done this repair myself but given i was in ohio i willingly let them do the 50-60 of these in the front and rear.

all of my windows had spray glue on the insides.....i think when they installed the wall covering they just sprayed everywhere and no one cleaned the windows afterward.....couldn't really see it on screended windows till they were opened. anyway i spent 8-10 hours doing glue removal from all the inside window surfaces....while i was pissed about this i just kept thinking "this gives me time to really inspect the windows/frames closely".

the factory has a specific silicon spray.....i think it's dow slip1cone....or maybe dupont...anyway most any non petrol 100% silicon spray applied to the gaskets will work.

was your trailer built during the shift to higher rated axles? that's the only reason i can think they would apply the wrong id plate.

a far more dangerous mislabel happened on mine.....they applied a "220 volt only" label to my shore power plug site!!!


cheers
2air'
Air,
Thanks for the input on the mirror tabs and the silicone spray.
Yes, my unit was built in Jan/Feb 2005, which was shortly after the change to the heavier axles. The incorrect plate showed a 10,000 GVWR instead of 10,300 as it should for the 30'SO Classic, so it wasn't a real critical error.
Regards,
Tom
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:03 PM   #246
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For those with 2005 AS, would you buy the 7 year warranty? This is a really long thread and I have just scanned random posts. Sounds like most of the problems were on the minor side.

I have a 2005 25ft International and the 1 year warranty is about to expire. A 7 year warranty has been offered for $1155. So far, I have had no problems with it. Longest trip has been about 2000 miles. Everything seems to work well. Problems:

1) some interior rivets keep popping out but I can drill and replace those easily myself. Probably due to flexing and settling in according to the dealer.

2) Had problem with faulty battery that was replaced under warranty

3) Flimsy privacy screen. Will be damaged in time since we have 2 small children

Those have really been the only problems I can recall. Have not used the shower yet though. Have great dealer service. Should I buy the 7 year warranty?
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:49 PM   #247
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Extended Warranty

Goldwing70,
Seems that you have been very fortunate to have very few problems with your 2005 unit. You mentioned that your one-year warranty is almost up. If you bought the unit new, you should have a two-year factory warranty. You may want to verify this, however.

In my case, I am certainly hoping that the warranty is a full two-years, in that I have not been so fortunate. I have owned my unit for 11 months now, during which time it has been in repair for 163 days (5.5 months), which is where it still sets. Its current visit has been ongoing since Nov. 3, 2005. There is no question regarding my decision on an extended warranty, assuming I still own the unit when that time comes!

Best Regards,
Tom
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Old 02-03-2006, 06:51 PM   #248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldwing70
For those with 2005 AS, would you buy the 7 year warranty? This is a really long thread and I have just scanned random posts. Sounds like most of the problems were on the minor side.

I have a 2005 25ft International and the 1 year warranty is about to expire. A 7 year warranty has been offered for $1155. Should I buy the 7 year warranty?
hi goldwing and others.....

pretty sure the factory coverage is 2 years on the safaris, just like the classics...

anyway the question of an extended warranty/service policy is important......

do you have any details about the warranty?

from who, what's covered, or more importantly what ISN'T covered?

who can do the work? is there a co pay?

do you have copy of it?

tell us more....

cheers
2air'
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Old 02-03-2006, 08:41 PM   #249
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Unit was purchased new. I don't recall how long the factory warranty was. My warranty papers must be in the trailer since I can't find them at home. Won't be out to visit the RV for another 2 weeks or so. I received a letter from the dealer today stating that I had a 1 year warranty with an offer for 7 year extension. I assumed there was some kind of standard AS extended policy.

If this is a bumper to bumper kind of warranty extension, I think $1155 for 7 years is very tempting. On the other hand, I feel I could probably fix most things myself except for the appliances. I'll have to check those wheel bearings for grease this winter when I get it out of storage. I'll have to call the dealer tomorrow. Thanks for the quick responses!
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Old 02-03-2006, 10:39 PM   #250
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldwing70
Unit was purchased new. I don't recall how long the factory warranty was. I received a letter from the dealer today stating that I had a 1 year warranty with an offer for 7 year extension. I assumed there was some kind of standard AS extended policy.
Since you purchased new, your warranty from Airstream is 2 years. I don't think a lot of your dealer sending you incorrect information. For all intents he is offering you 6 years since you still have another year left in the warranty.

Like anything else you throw the dice. Dealers don't offer warranties unless they are on the winning side. As noted earlier, what does the warranty cover?

There is always the person who will win and come out ahead, while 10 others will never need it.

Jack
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Old 02-04-2006, 07:46 AM   #251
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Thanks for the input. I'll definitely have to verify the warranty terms. I'll probably pass on the extended warranty offer.
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Old 03-23-2006, 10:22 AM   #252
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2005 22'ccd

Picked up our new 22' in Dec. 2005. Most apparent problems are F&F. Vertical seams in the head have opened in the wall between fiberglass and Laminate? There is a seam in the shower pan with a 1/4 gap between the pan and wall. Sealant and caulking are everywhere. I don't know why assemblers go crazy when they get an air powered caulking tool in their hands! I fixed the long vertical seam using a vinyl venetion blind slat cut in half(about 3/4" wide), masked off the area, glued it on with white 3M boat goop. !3 years living on a sailboat taught me a lot! Just filled the gap with same stuff.
All the trim on the edges of the overhead cabinets were cut too short and have gaps in the butt joints. Some things just don't fit as well as they should. If these "craftsmen would just take their time and do it right. What a novel idea!!
When it warms up, we shall head out and make sure all works as it should.
Cheers, Jeff
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