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douglasbury · 07-31-2011, 11:00 AM

As I rebuild this trailer in my mind I am trying to figure out the best approach. My trailer had most of the copper for the gas lines still in place. I guess I will put it back with minimal changes. One thing I will do is use stainless steel hardware where ever possible. One thing the Army taught me is that steel and aluminum should never touch. As I took my trailer apart I could why.......

**silverleeper** · 07-31-2011, 02:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by douglasbury

One thing I will do is use stainless steel hardware where ever possible.

I did this on my Airstreams...

douglasbury · 08-01-2011, 07:17 AM

Well the baby shower is over and here are some more pics. First is the body hanging in the garage. Yesterday I removed one of the vents. It was a steel replacement that was starting to rust. The screws were rusty as well, I had to use vice grips and loosen them from underneath. The other vent will take a lot more effort, Looks like someone dumped a gallon of roofing tar on it to stop a leak or leaks. I also removed the door frame and one of the ribs. I have a buddy that can make some new ones, or so he claims. At one point a PO broke the original door knob and instead of buying a replacement they cut a new lock set, and is doing so they cut the door frame almost in half. I am pretty sure my original lock set was a Bargman L-100 instead of the L-77 like most trailer of the same vintage. The next pictures are of the Soul or the frame. Not sure if you can see the extent of the rust. Next week it goes to the welder to have everything replaced except the main channels. Additionally I will have him beef up the frame as per the Airstream specs for a new Dexter axle. I am wondering if I should have him patch the hole on the frame where the old dump valve exited the trailer. Any thoughts?
Doug

Melody Ranch · 08-01-2011, 07:35 AM

Yes , fix the hole in the frame....even add more supports if so inclined. Now, could you show more of the shell lift off? And, most curiously, why you disassembled the shell for that lift off. I am afraid you will have some major headaches if you don't jig it in some manner.

douglasbury · 08-01-2011, 08:07 AM

I didn't give building a jig for it much thought largely due the the fact that every thing on this trailer was pretty much shot. The C channels were all coroded beyond use and the plywood was crumbeling. in fact I pulled the plywood up with my hands. I did take some measurements once the body was off, however the measurements varied by up to an inch. My thought is that once the frame is repaired I use the outrigger measurements to determine the proper width of the floor. Plus the original specs found on the Airstream service site (see link on post #1) call for interior width to be 7'1" plus 1.5" x 2 for the C channel should get me close. Then put down new plywood and new c channel and reattach the body. Every corner of my trailer was pushed in or creased. Does anyone know the proper radius of the corners?

Doug

douglasbury · 08-01-2011, 08:52 AM

Just went out and measured the frame and outriggers. The frame width is 57 3/16" and the outriggers are 15" + - 1/4". My calculations put the floor width at 88". Does the plywood go past the outriggers? Since I am replacing all the outriggers I could make them all 15 13/32" which would give me an overall width of 88". Or make them all 15" and cut the plywood to hang past the outriggers by 13/32".

**HiHoAgRV** · 08-01-2011, 09:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by douglasbury

Just went out and measured ... My calculations put the floor width at 88"...

My floor was 88 wide and you won't like this news...the corners weren't a radius, the curve varied as it wrapped. Try to save at least pieces of the corner "C" channels!