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Old 06-05-2008, 07:44 PM   #15
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Thanks Darol. I will take a look at the condition of the transformer to see if it is really working. I am assuming that is where my problem lies. If my transformer is fried, are there replacements or do I just get a converter to go in its place?

On the shower floor- the area that pushes down slightly is on the toilet side of the shower floor, so I doubt that I can get over there with my had from thru the vanity door. I am just worried that with the age of the fiberglass (or is it plastic?) shower pan, if I continually step on it it may crack. If I can't get to it from the vanity door do you think I should pull the base and try to re-shim? Also- I have seem people paint the shower pan with a 2 part epoxy- is this the best product to refinish and add a new color?
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Old 06-05-2008, 08:58 PM   #16
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Modarch, I think I'd replace the old transformer with the small Intellipower converter and get a gell cell battery. Much more dependable, battery would not need venting, and you'd be good for at least a week boondocking in the summer. The shower pan is fiberglass as is the wall up to the window level. All one piece and very difficult to remove without gutting the interior. The vanity top, sink, and upper wall/ceiling are ABS plastic. Both materials can be repainted, but they have to be super-clean and lightly snaded with 400 grit wet/dry paper for the paint to adhear well. I've used appliance epoxy (spray cans) and marine epoxy (1-part, Interlux or Pettit) brushed. If you use spray, be sure to wear a paper suit and mask and ventilate the area well. Then leave it alone for about 2 weeks to cure. You might be able to shim the floor through the closet on the curbside. The black tank is above the floor and the water pipe is in the way plus you have to stand on your head to do it - not an easy fix!! Darol
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Old 06-06-2008, 04:12 AM   #17
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... If my transformer is fried, are there replacements or do I just get a converter to go in its place?
...
You're going to want real 12V DC eventually, if just to run a radio (nifty car receivers with CD and front panel audio input or USB ports for listening to music directly from a thumb drive are less than $150). I'd also be leery of running vent fans on 19V AC, even if it does work.

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Old 06-06-2008, 09:33 AM   #18
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You may find you like that dinette. My 68 has one in front and we put one in the 59 overlander when we rebuilt it we liked having it so much. I wouldn't just go plugging that into AC power unless the PO did so while you were standing there and touched the trailer himself. Survey the whole AC system first. Get a meter and check for shorts to the trailer. Take off the plates and check the wiring connections. Check out the breaker panel also, without power. Get fimilar with it before you plug it in. Unless you are a purist I'ld switch it over to 12V with a fancy new converter. Again trace the DC circuits before and the size of fuses that he used, there must be fuses on each circuit. It's a great size to work with. You will likly find the the floor under the shower is gone toward the rear. Only way to see it is under the belly pan. Also these often need the dump valve rebuilt and I was able to get a kit. I replaced my axel.

I cann't find the thread on changing my axle with the changes they made to the forums, try a search as it will be informative.
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:14 PM   #19
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So Over59- do you recommend going ahead and pulling the shower pan to inspect the floor and go ahead and replace the dump valves? My Caravel has some sort of round dish attached to the underside of the belly pan in a location which looks to be right below the shower drain. I haven't pulled it off to see what it is. Is this normal? I will get a pic this weekend...
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Old 06-06-2008, 01:27 PM   #20
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So Over59- do you recommend going ahead and pulling the shower pan to inspect the floor and go ahead and replace the dump valves? My Caravel has some sort of round dish attached to the underside of the belly pan in a location which looks to be right below the shower drain. I haven't pulled it off to see what it is. Is this normal? I will get a pic this weekend...

That round dish covers the shower drain trap. Remove it and all you will see is the bottom of the drain, insulation and a little of the bottom of the fiberglass shower floor. You can inspect the back edge of the wood subfloor through the bottom cabinet under the sink. Some twisting with a mirror and a flashlight will show you alot of the back edge. You can also pop off the belly pan and look - it's still not fun but can give you a much better look at what is going on back there.
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Old 06-06-2008, 02:42 PM   #21
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That round dish covers the shower drain trap. Remove it and all you will see is the bottom of the drain, insulation and a little of the bottom of the fiberglass shower floor. You can inspect the back edge of the wood subfloor through the bottom cabinet under the sink. Some twisting with a mirror and a flashlight will show you alot of the back edge. You can also pop off the belly pan and look - it's still not fun but can give you a much better look at what is going on back there.
I agree with this. Getting that show back in would be a pain. I didn't replace the valve I rebuilt it with a kit. If it doesn't leak I would leave it for further down the list. If the axle is shot the trailer will really get beatup. http://www.airforums.com/forums/f437...fab-11418.html
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Old 06-08-2008, 12:55 AM   #22
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After working on the Caravel today, here is an update on my issues, and also a few more questions.

I did get the 12v lights working along with the receptacles when on shore power. I put my two switches on "city power", and this time I had the battery connected. Everything worked! I am just curious if the 12v fixtures were only drawing power from the battery, and not from shore power. I think from what I have heard here it is all a mute point- I am going to go with the converter and go all 12v power.

Some bad news- I took my camera and shot some photos back around the rear of the shower pan where I couldn't see. I have posted one from the rear of the shower pan- and it looks like there is little to no subfloor! I do see what looks to be a shim that Darol spoke of, but not totally sure. I am going to build a gaucho to go where the mini-me dinette was, and plan on rebuilding the wardrobe cabinets, so I guess pulling the shower will be the route I need to go to do it correctly.

Noticed my dump valve is leaking slightly. I am contemplating a larger custom holding tank that will expand into the floor of the street side wardrobe. Not sure how much $$ this will be.

Question #1- I thought these older Airstreams had the grey water day lighting before the black tank? Mine seems to only go in the single holding tank. The cap that is on my dump assembly has a garden hose connection- not sure what that is for. Maybe used if you are not putting any solids in the tank? Over59- can you give me more info on that valve rebuild kit incase I keep the original tank?

Question #2-I have a question about disconnecting the sanitary from under the kitchen and vanity sinks. I have a friend who has a '65 Safari and he said that his connections are like mine and he couldn't figure out how to disconnect. He ended up taking a hack saw to it. Any words of advice? I noticed today that the ptrap on my vanity is leaking- it is really odd b/c there was no water running down the outside of the pvc going down to the trap, just the trap itself. I am assuming the joint is loose or it is cracked do to a improperly winterized rig. I have posted pics of the ptraps- white is vanity and black is kitchen sink.

Axel is at a zero angle- even with the frame. So I will definitely be putting a new axel on before it travels anywhere...

Thanks again guys for the help. It is much appreciated!
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Old 06-08-2008, 04:58 AM   #23
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It is possible to get at the floor under the shower by removing the belly pan. I would suggest you try this before trying to take out the shower. Plumbing looks like it is glued in place. The hose connection is for the grey water, you run it into a blue boy or on to the ground some places. The valve is just for the black tank, you pull it open to dump (after hooking up ). Good luck. Write it all down before you start. This will be expensive.
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:18 PM   #24
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I have an acrylic tube that looks to be running between the interior and exterior skins. There is a 6" piece that just hangs down when I open my street side access panel. What does this tube do? There is a small aluminum ledge and round hold just above the access panel. It this related to it?
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Old 06-12-2008, 11:51 PM   #25
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... There is a 6" piece that just hangs down when I open my street side access panel. What does this tube do? ...
What access panel? Some clue about it's location (side of shell, under belly pan) would help immensely.

Mostly, the tubes you find between the skins is the air conditioner drain tube, installed in all models whether or not you acutally have an air conditioner.

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Old 06-13-2008, 01:51 AM   #26
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I have an acrylic tube that looks to be running between the interior and exterior skins. There is a 6" piece that just hangs down when I open my street side access panel. What does this tube do? There is a small aluminum ledge and round hold just above the access panel. It this related to it?

The tube is the condensate drain from the a/c unit.

The aluminum ledge with the hole underneath is a vent for the battery. If it were all there, there would be a copper tube inside connected to a rubber tube running to the battery box for venting.

I wouldn't be so quick to ditch the furnace. I love mine. It is quiet and it heats the trailer quite well in cold weather. It has no fan so your battery usage for it is 0. If it works I would keep it.

As for the rot in the bath. Caravels have a nasty design flaw that lets water seep in from the rear bumper cover and saturate the wood floor. The hinge almost directs the water in there. If you decide to take the shower out you will have to at the very least, take the closets out. The bath was the first thing in during assembly. I suspect you will have to put in a new sheet of plywood back there.

Another interesting note, everything inside will fit thru the door. It is how they built them back then. Shell to frame and then install the interior.

You already have the axle thing under control. Mine is on its third axle. First one snapped a spindle going over some R/R tracks.
Second one was junk when they put it on.
Third was by me, a brand new Henschen. You can go Dexter too, just get the measurements right.

Take a look at my photos. The link is in my signature line. Our Caravels were built pretty much the same.

Darol is right on with the electrical.

Pretty sweet looking Caravel there !!! BTW, looks like you have an original Armstrong A/C unit on top. They can be repaired if need be.
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Old 06-13-2008, 01:58 AM   #27
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What access panel? Some clue about it's location (side of shell, under belly pan) would help immensely.

Mostly, the tubes you find between the skins is the air conditioner drain tube, installed in all models whether or not you acutally have an air conditioner.

Zep
Zep, that is an access door on the streetside, side. It has the battery, water connections, electric controls and cord inside. You are spot on about the drain tube. Looks to be a factory Armstrong A/C unit on there.
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Old 06-13-2008, 06:47 PM   #28
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In all my owner’s manuals it looks to be an Intertherm a/c. It is still blowing cold air so I am going to hang onto it for a while. It does dwarf the Caravel...

I am still up in the air about the furnace. When I rebuild the galley cabinets I am going to leave a space for a catalytic heater, and install it later. Since we are down south I doubt we will need more than the heat strip.

I am going to attempt to replace the floor areas w/o dropping the belly pan. I am going to try the machine screw method to the frame. I know I will still need to drop the lower inside skins to access the elevator bolts.

Tearing out the rest of the inside tomorrow. I have convinced myself that pulling the shower is the best way to go to get the job done right.
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