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Old 07-14-2015, 08:50 PM   #15
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1968 24' Tradewind
1967 17' Caravel
Northborough , Massachusetts
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Best opinion?

For the best opinion, there are probably people on this forum in your area.
Nothing is better than having a knowledgeable person go over it and give you a realistic appraisal even if it costs a few bucks to get it. In general avoid dealers for this as they have a conflict of interest. You need a really neutral party to get the best quote. You can also check with your local chapter of WBCCI or the Vintage chapter to check that avenue. They are all good people to know if you want to sell it for a reasonable price.

Chuck
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:40 AM   #16
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1966 17' Caravel
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Las Cruces , New Mexico
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Surely there is someone near Dallas that could help. Any trailer restoration outfits near?
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Old 07-15-2015, 08:51 AM   #17
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Las Cruces , New Mexico
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jerbear315 was in College Station, TX. You might PM her to see if she has a lead on a person who works on these in the area. Pictures of the rig would help members here get an idea of what you have and its relative value. If everything works and the floors are good, outside has few 'beauty marks', the value is better than those needing LOTS of work, speaking from the stand point of someone with one that needs LOTS of work.
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Old 07-16-2015, 07:02 PM   #18
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frisco , Texas
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Thanks all. Pictures will come, but unfortunately, my folks can't find the keys. I'll post pics when I get it open. Thanks again!
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Old 07-23-2015, 01:19 PM   #19
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Houston , Texas
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I have been looking for a Caravel for my recently retired hubby to restore. Email me at horsie827@yahoo.com if you are ready to sell.
Thanks, Joanie
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Old 07-24-2015, 11:57 AM   #20
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Finnegan9 I sent you an email.
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Old 08-10-2015, 11:02 AM   #21
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frisco , Texas
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Well, we finally found the door key and I was able to get some pics.

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Old 08-10-2015, 11:10 PM   #22
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1968 24' Tradewind
1967 17' Caravel
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Water damage...

Looks like there has been water damage. Floor is probably toast, Frame needs an inspection.
The good news is that it looks pretty much original and everything is there so its a decent starting point.

Chuck
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Old 08-14-2015, 07:58 PM   #23
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Have you decided what you want for it? I'm in OKC and might be interested.


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Old 08-17-2015, 09:44 AM   #24
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Does anyone know the cost to replace the floor in case it did need to be replaced due to water damage?
Thanks
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Old 08-18-2015, 09:44 AM   #25
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I do not know the cost, but it is a major job. Everything, cabinets, gouchos, bathroom, has to come out. Aluminum inside wall panels have to be removed to access bolts in the floor. Once you go that far you will consider replacement or refurbishment of everything inside. It is a slippery slope, but if you do it yourself it can be a rewarding experience. You'll end up with a camper you will cherish. I wouldn't want to pay the bill to have someone else do it, but I have done it once and am about to do it again. It takes lots of time!!!
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Old 08-18-2015, 08:52 PM   #26
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1968 24' Tradewind
1967 17' Caravel
Northborough , Massachusetts
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Posts: 136
Take the shell off???

To do it correctly you need to do a shell off since the shell is bolted to the frame through the floor. You can "patch" the floor if you have a few soft spots but even that is generally a major undertaking since you still usually need to remove some of the interior components to patch the floor.
If you are going to go there plan at least a few hundred hours of labor to do a minimal floor replacement...also expect to run into complications that will drag it out and cost more than you budgeted.
Just taking the shell off and putting it back on is a couple hundred hours of labor. Don't start it unless you are going to finish it in a reasonable period.
It requires quite a bit of space to safely store the contents of the trailer while you work on it. The longer it is out the more likely it is to get damaged in some fashion. Reassembly will take 5-10x the time it took to disassemble it.
Take lots of pictures from all angles so that you can refer to them during the reassembly to get it correct. It is best to have a reasonable work schedule (x hrs per week) rather than trying to complete to a date schedule so that you will not cut corners or disappoint anyone as to a completion date.
You are not going to like what you see as you disassemble... it is likely to be full of feces from various critters that have nested inside of all those hidden spaces. They will have chewed on wires and tunneled all through the insulation. You may even chase a few out that are still living there... extra caution if you live in rattlesnake country or the trailer came from there.

The task will be a labor of love... and if you are not up to it then get rid of the fix-er-upper and find one that is usable as it. Time is money and you will invest a ton of both before you are through. It is often cheaper to buy a better trailer to start with than to fix all of the things that are wrong with a less costly one.

Just my opinion after having done one so far.

Chuck
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Old 08-19-2015, 09:00 PM   #27
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1968 24' Tradewind
1967 17' Caravel
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cost...

Typically you are looking at thousands of dollars to replace a floor as well as hundreds of hours. A trailer with a good solid floor and a good solid frame is worth a fair bit more money. You can fix up the interior furniture for considerably less money than it will take to basically fix the floor.
So when you are on the hunt for a trailer, put together a tool box.
Stock it with a good flashlight, a sharp awl, a drill with assorted bits , assorted pop rivets, a small hand mirror and a hand riveting tool at a minimum.
Start your inspection above and check the floor with the awl to make sure it is solid. Especially around the door, around the toilet, and inside cabinets near the shell wherever accessible. If it is solid everywhere it has a great start... not and you need to see just how cheap it can be bought for before proceeding further.
Another test is your nose... you will smell the critter infestation if it is there, especially in closets, drawers, under the gaucho, etc. If it is really noticeable when you walk in then you will probably have to do a shell off restoration to get rid of it. They nest in between the skins and it is difficult to get the smell out even after you have full access and some pretty strong chemicals. Bleach will barely touch it. I used some special chemicals that are designed to neutralize odors to clean up the last of it after I had :
Pressure washed the skins inside and out, bleached them, used commercial degreaser and another power wash to remove that. Then I could use this special stuff to remove the last of the odor. I had to throw away all of the wiring since the smell was embedded in the insulation. I had to seal any wood and paneling that I could reuse to make it not reek. Just cleaning the shell up enough to remove the smell was over 10 hrs of labor... not counting the rewiring, sealing of wood, etc.
Back to the trailer inspection... get underneath and drill out a few of the center rivets to drop part of the belly pan to inspect the frame and get a good whiff of what is going on in there. Use the mirror and the flashlight together to inspect the side you cannot easily see through the dropped skin. Expect to get dusted by critter feces...a face mask and goggles are a good precaution. If there are access hatches underneath and you can get them open then use them to inspect the belly as well. Those screws usually rust so don't expect much here in the way of access. You will need to pop-rivet the skins back in place when you are done... use the same holes if possible. If it looks pretty rusty under there you are looking at major frame work or replacement. Walk away unless you need it for parts and it is a steal. There is not much of a market for these parts... they are valuable enough, but it takes considerable time and effort to find them a new home... and bone-yards are pretty unsightly unless you live on a farm or can store them away out of sight and the elements. Decide to buy or pass and pay what the trailer is worth... more for a good one considerably less for a bad one. If it qualifies as scrap than don't pay more than scrap price for it. Don't forget the price of moving it from where it is to where it needs to be... scrap is not worth moving very far.

Chuck
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