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03-02-2005, 07:24 PM
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#161
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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You sure are on fire. If you did not replace the aluminum wire make sure the swithces and outlets you use are rated for aluminum wire. Did you remember the trailer connection under the floor?
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03-02-2005, 07:44 PM
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#162
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1968 17' Caravel
2005 30' Safari
Somewhere
, roaming America
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Stef, what fridge did you get? What modification is expected to make it fit? My Caravel's fridge is good for now, but considering its age, I want to be ready if it croaks.
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03-02-2005, 09:21 PM
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#163
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Just a member
1978 28' Argosy 28
Lutz
, Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,549
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Before you finish installing the skins is the time to run the 12 volt power for the new fridge. That is if it requires 12 volt
The intellipower is easy to install, it will not be hard at all.
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome
Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato
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03-02-2005, 10:05 PM
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#164
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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I haven't even gotten the fridge out of the box yet. I'll let you know more when I get a better look at it. It's a Dometic, and Darol said it's the smallest one they make, the next size up is too tall. I think it will come pretty close to fitting in the old hole.
The heater requires some modifications to the wheelwell cover to fit it so the exhaust goes out through the stock hole. Of course the stock hole is circular, so it will have to be patched, as the new heater exhaust is square.
I am just getting to where I am buttoning up the wall around the 110v fusebox. I haven't figured out how to run the 110v over to the fridge. I can't run it in the walls anyway, because I would need to run it through the bathroom and I didn't remove those walls. Of course, there is one 110v set of plugs in the kitchen. It's above the counter behind the sink. I don't know if I can tap into that somehow.
Otherwise I am not modifying the 110v system. It is aluminum, and I'm going to just not mess with it, because it works now. Basically there are three 110v outlets - one in the kitchen, one in the bathroom midway up the wall behind the toilet, and one above and to the left of the table. None are conveniently placed for powering my new appliances.
The 12v system however used the Univolt as the fusebox, so there are no 12v fuses in the system now. So Darol was explaining to me how to build a 12v fusebox, and wire them up to the battery. Then the Intelipower will keep the battery charged. Oh yeah, it needs to plug in somewhere too, and there's no 110v plugs anywhere near where I would put the Intellipower...
I'm trying to get this done by April, and I need to have it finished enough to camp in by May. Having a deadline certainly has spurred me along!
__________________
Stephanie
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03-02-2005, 10:40 PM
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#165
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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I have the same trailer. The fuses are inside the univolt. Buy an inexpensive DC fuse box for blade type fuses. Five slots should be fine but 10 will be lots of extras and cost a dollar more. My setup is under the curbside dinette seat and coach area. There is room for two batteries. There is a hole going outside just above this area to vent the batteries. I ran the AC to my new fridge under the floor. Had to build out the counter for the fridge as it is deeper than the old ones. I'll post some pics for you. Yes you can use the outlet on the sink side to get a wire down. Do it before attaching the interior skin on that side. The converter should be an easy connect to the AC breaker box next to the batteries. Bring a new outlet off the panel to plug in the convert. Also gives you an AC outlet to plug in outside with the access door open a little. This area must have some venting if you are using lead acid batteries. Did you allow a hole in the floor to feed fresh air to the fridge? These things work by air flow over the colling coils. They don't get cold if there isn't air "moving" over them like a flue draft. I put a small computer fan above the coils into the exhaust stack with a switch I can reach through the access door.
If you have a Voc Tech school near you they may help with the wiring just to show the kids the AC/DC system and vintage aluminum wiring.
You've done the hard part and are rounding the bend. I never would have though you could work outside in Wa in the winter.
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03-03-2005, 08:26 AM
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#166
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Yes, I still have the hole in the floor for the fridge airflow. I also have a 12v fan setup I made for the old fridge, so I'll be reinstalling that.
If I can add a plug next to the 110v breaker box, maybe I can just get a heavy duty extension cord to run around to the fridge. It's not all that far, and it can run through the tunnel in front of the shower.
I'm planning to use the kind of batteries that don't need to be vented to the outside.
We have wonderfully mild weather here in the NW most of the time, though this winter has been exceptionally nice. You know, we just complain about our weather to keep the riff-raff out
__________________
Stephanie
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03-03-2005, 09:27 AM
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#167
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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No Vent Batteries?
Steph:
If you are referring to Optima Batteries (or other Gel Cell), be advised that they do, indeed, offgas. Even though they advertise as being "an almost any position battery", HSOx (and possibly HCl) gas is a by product of charging (look at the vents on the tops of their batteries).
The Optima website advises that they be installed in a "well ventilated" area.
http://www.optimabatteries.com/publi..._handling.html
I seriously considered installing them behind the Gaucho inside the Sovereign, but after looking into the Gel Cell Batteries operational characteristics a bit further, I surmised that ALL rechargeable lead based batteries off gas. Therefore I plan to mount the battery on the tongue of the trailer.
If you "have" to mount a lead based battery in the interior, I strongly urge you to find or fabricate a "bubble tight" box enclosure that is properly vented to the exterior of the trailer.
Hydro Sulphuric/Chloric gas will cause bad things to happen in the enclosed confines of an Airstream.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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03-03-2005, 09:54 AM
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#168
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Thanks, Dennis, I'll take it under advisement. Whatever I get is going under the gaucho, so I'll have to figure out the best solution.
__________________
Stephanie
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03-03-2005, 10:49 AM
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#169
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1968 17' Caravel
2005 30' Safari
Somewhere
, roaming America
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I am just getting to where I am buttoning up the wall around the 110v fusebox. I haven't figured out how to run the 110v over to the fridge. I can't run it in the walls anyway, because I would need to run it through the bathroom and I didn't remove those walls.
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We ran the 12v and a new 110 line under the floor for the fridge, but I guess I'm getting that advice to you a BIT late.
See the pic. We mounted an Intellipower to the wall to gain some storage space, and added a 12v fuse panel from West Marine. I was also considering the Optima. The Caravel has a vent screen already built in to the access panel if you want to run a vent hose to it.
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03-04-2005, 12:50 PM
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#170
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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Ok, I think I'm starting to figure this out. There's a 110v line coming out of the wall that used to go into the Univolt. I want to put an outlet there. Of course I can't find outlets rated for aluminum wire, so I'm thinking of stealing the outlet from the bathroom, which we never use. I could cap off the bathroom wires and hide them behind a cover. Then I could put the outlet where I need it next to where the Univolt used to be, and plug the Intellipower in there. Then I was going to run an extension cord under the floor and bring it up through a hole under the fridge, and plug the fridge in there.
I got a 12v fusebox, it has 14 circuits - the smallest they had at the parts store. I only need four. I guess that leaves room to expand.
__________________
Stephanie
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03-04-2005, 03:15 PM
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#171
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1968 17' Caravel
2005 30' Safari
Somewhere
, roaming America
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,095
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And now we eat crow ...
Well, right after I posted the pic, I realized something funny was up. How could the gaucho be converted to a bed with the Intellipower and 12v fuse box in that position?
Sure enough, we're going to have to move them. So don't do what we did! But there's still room enough in there to get the Intellipower off the floor for additional storage space. I'll post a pic of the revised layout when it's done.
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03-04-2005, 03:48 PM
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#172
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418
2007 25' Safari FB SE
1958 22' Flying Cloud
1974 29' Ambassador
Yucca Valley
, California
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: 1963 26' Overlander
Posts: 4,804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Yes, I still have the hole in the floor for the fridge airflow. I also have a 12v fan setup I made for the old fridge, so I'll be reinstalling that.
If I can add a plug next to the 110v breaker box, maybe I can just get a heavy duty extension cord to run around to the fridge. It's not all that far, and it can run through the tunnel in front of the shower.
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Stef,
The electric element in the refrigerator is less than 200W, in a very small fridge it is likely around 100W, so it's power consumption is very low, and there is no need for heavy wiring going to it.
A standard outlet is just fine. It's no more than a 150W light bulb.
You are making good progress. I need to catch up!
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03-04-2005, 03:51 PM
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#173
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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I thought that looked a little high. I think I might put the Intellipower on the wall right next to where the Univolt was. The 12v fuse panel will be there too. I'm just trying to keep everything close to where it was so I don't have to drag new wires around. Once I get the water pipes back in there, there's not a lot of usefull space in that area anyway.
Are you making any changes to the plumbing, or just putting the copper pipes back in - assuming you still had copper pipes?
I have a question. There is a wire that goes from the 110v fuse box to the U channel below the access door where it is held down by a junction block (which was held down by one of the original floor bolts). Then another wire goes from there to the 12v ground wires. It looks like inside the 110v fuse box it is attached to the green wire that comes out of the cable (you know, the big cable that plugs into the camp power). I assume this is a ground wire, but I'm wondering why it attaches to the U channel and then to the 12v ground block. Is this to ground the whole system when plugged in? Anyone know?
__________________
Stephanie
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03-04-2005, 03:59 PM
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#174
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Rivet Master
Commercial Member
1968 17' Caravel
2005 30' Safari
Somewhere
, roaming America
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,095
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Are you making any changes to the plumbing, or just putting the copper pipes back in - assuming you still had copper pipes?
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The prior owner had already removed all the copper plumbing and replaced with flexible plastic lines. These are a lot easier to work with, in terms of snaking them around obstacles under the gaucho. But if you have copper now and it is in decent shape, I wouldn't mess with it.
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03-04-2005, 08:03 PM
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#175
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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I have good copper pipe, so I think I'll be putting it back in without any changes.
Well, this morning I didn't have a clue what I was going to do, but here it is at the end of the day and it looks pretty good. I returned the big fuse block and got one with six circuits, which is a more appropriate size since I only have three. I removed the outlet from the bathroom and moved it out to where the Univolt was, and that's where the intellipower will plug in. Now I just need a short lead from the intellipower to the fuse block, and then I need to figure out how long the battery cables will be, and get the battery back in there. Things are coming right along.
__________________
Stephanie
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03-05-2005, 10:33 AM
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#176
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rluhr
Well, right after I posted the pic, I realized something funny was up. How could the gaucho be converted to a bed with the Intellipower and 12v fuse box in that position?
Sure enough, we're going to have to move them. So don't do what we did! But there's still room enough in there to get the Intellipower off the floor for additional storage space. I'll post a pic of the revised layout when it's done.
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\
Move them forward up into that curved space before the water tank.
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03-05-2005, 10:53 AM
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#177
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Rivet Master
1959 26' Overlander
Putnam
, Connecticut
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I have good copper pipe, so I think I'll be putting it back in without any changes.
Well, this morning I didn't have a clue what I was going to do, but here it is at the end of the day and it looks pretty good. I returned the big fuse block and got one with six circuits, which is a more appropriate size since I only have three. I removed the outlet from the bathroom and moved it out to where the Univolt was, and that's where the intellipower will plug in. Now I just need a short lead from the intellipower to the fuse block, and then I need to figure out how long the battery cables will be, and get the battery back in there. Things are coming right along.
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Not to cause concern but that's where my water pump is so I can reach it from the outside access panel. The order I have is AC Panel, two Batteries, Water Pump, fuse block, and then Intell with smart box on the wall.
You can get outlets that are rated for aluminum and copper. Stop by a local electrical supply and tell them what you need or ask the old guy at your local mega do it yourself store.
Put one of these 100 amp fuses in to protect your batteries. http://order.waytekwire.com/CGI-BIN/...BC4121+M37+ENG or if doesn't work
http://www.waytekwire.com/
products, fuses, high amp
get a holder also.
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03-05-2005, 08:22 PM
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#178
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Moderator
1968 17' Caravel
Battle Ground
, Washington
Join Date: Dec 2002
Posts: 12,253
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I tested the new 110v outlet and it works fine. I won't miss the outlet in the bathroom, it was in a really inconvenient spot, unless you like to shave over the toilet. I put a blank plate over it.
I wasted most of today trying to find a sealed/vented battery box for my group 27 battery. I could find them for group 24 size, but not 27. Unfortunately I just replaced this battery last year, and I hate to go buy another new battery. So Monday I'll try a couple more places that weren't open today.
I got really annoyed at the RV/auto parts places I called. They either didn't know what I meant, despite me trying to explain it, or just insisted they had it without going and checking. The guy at Shucks even told me "I don't know what the hell you're talking about". Well, at least he was honest. Idiot. Two places that insisted they had one caused me to drive 45 minutes into town just to discover they had plain old unvented battery boxes, like everyone else had. There was one more place in Portland that said they had one, but it was another half-hour further away, and I was afraid I'd get there and find out they didn't have it either, so I gave up and went home.
Tonight I'll be working on re-installing the water system. But I can't really test it until I get a battery set up in there because the 12v still isn't hooked up.
__________________
Stephanie
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03-06-2005, 09:42 AM
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#180
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Rivet Master
1978 31' Sovereign
Texas Airstream Harbor
, Zavalla, in the Deep East Texas Piney Woods on Lake Sam Rayburn
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,435
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I think this would be a more appropriate solution.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...w=sku&N=302082
At one time "Pelican" made a suitable enclosure. You could even make one yourself using a good sealing compound at the joints with a thick soft gasket for the lid....it only needs to seal - not contain any pressure.
__________________
Dennis
"Suck it up, spend the bucks, do it right the first time."
WBCCI # 1113
AirForums #1737
Trailer '78 31' Sovereign
Living Large at an Airstream Park on the Largest Lake Totally Contained in Texas
Texas Airstream Harbor, Inc.
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