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Old 01-23-2005, 07:08 PM   #121
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Lots of progress today! I now have removed most of the rotten floor and the patches. I haven't taken out the middle of the floor yet, because then I won't have a leg to stand on - so to speak. I need to get some wood in there to stand on where I've taken the floor out. It's getting very awkward to move around!

Good news, the outriggers on the door side of the trailer seem to be solid.

I have been taking the floor out in small pieces, cutting long cuts with the circular saw, and finishing up with the jigsaw. Being a small person, I find the big tools are unweildy to use. I am much more comfortable using the little jig saw. I did fine except where I hit the bellyskin with the blade in the front corner where the floor comes up to meet the banana wrap. It's just a nick. Cutting the floor into small pieces also makes it fit into the trash better!

I am ready to start cutting away the bolts around the perimeter so I can get the wood out of the channel. I'm not looking forward to using the recip saw, it looks big and scary. I really want to make sure I don't nick the outer skin!

I'll be SO GLAD when this is back together!!!

PS: I know the PO has been checking in here to see how it's going. Hi, Mr G!
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:10 PM   #122
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Right on!
I am watching your posts and cheering you on. Progress and letting it sit both feed on themselves, don't they!
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Old 01-29-2005, 02:31 PM   #123
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Well, I made some more progress today, I have now removed the wood far enough to see the condition of the main crossbeam, which is under the first seam in the floor. It looks good, no major rust problems.

I am having trouble with the recip saw. I am trying to use it to cut through the bolts holding the wood in along the front edge. Most of them were already replaced by the PO when he did his patches. There are only four bolts left to deal with, and several small staples. I tried cutting through these, but the saw bounces around and is very hard to control. I get it under the U-shaped track, and it comes back out. I am probably being too cautious as I don't want to cut through the outside wall, so I am trying not to get in any deeper than I have to. Any advice for using this thing?!

I also noticed that there is water in the bellypan after a hard rain. Interesting because the trailer is under a cover! It must be blowing against the side and getting in somehow. I'll have to find and stop that before I put the new floor in.
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Old 01-29-2005, 05:15 PM   #124
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Stephanie,

You go girl! Great progress!



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Old 01-29-2005, 09:05 PM   #125
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Saw Blades

If your reciprocating saw is bouncing on metal try a smaller toothed blade - one that looks like hacksaw teeth. Use the metal cutting blade to get through the bolts, then switch to the wood blade.

Selling my old 1917 vintage house where I used lotsa tools - probably explains why I bought a NEW A/S!

Paula & Tin Lizzie - coming soon!
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:28 PM   #126
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Stephanie,

I found it was pretty hard to get to the bolts properly along the edges with my recip. saw. I used a combination of a cutoff wheel (an air powered one - but your dremel could work too) and a hack saw blade. You know, the kind of hack saw blade in a handle-holder that lets the end of the blade stick out?. I just took my time with the hack saw on the few I had to use it on. Bolts actually saw off suprisingly easy with a hack saw. I did find that the hack saw blade that came with the handle was pretty cheap and a new higher quality one made a lot of differenc by the way.

A couple of thoughts on the recip saw use:

The blade has to be free to travel its full length without bumping anything at the long end of its strock.

You definitely want a fine tooth blade for metal. But you might want to try one of the abrasive type ones instead. I had to do that with some bolts I had in the middle area of my AS that were put in by a PO. The metal was too hard for standard tooth type blades. The kind I am talking about look a bit like someone glued sand paper particles to the edge of the blade.

If you are trying to cut the metal at the same time you are cutting wood around it there could be binding caused by the wood. A fine tooth blade for the metal does not cut the wood very well. The more clearance you can get that is wood free the better.

Can you cut off the bolt below the floor? If the bolts are newer is is possible to unbolt them rather than cut them off?

Malcolm
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Old 01-29-2005, 11:45 PM   #127
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I'm using a fine tooth blade that came with the saw, I assume it's for metal, it looks like a hacksaw blade.

The newer bolts from the POs repairs are not bent over, so I think I can unscrew them with some care - they use square nuts. The remaining factory bolts are upside down, and the bent over ends are sticking up, so I can't do anything from underneith. I think I will try the dremel and see if I can get them that way. There are only a few I need to worry about along the edge. The staples look like a bigger problem. They are closer to the wall and I don't want to damage anything. The wood is wobbly like a loose tooth, I just need to get these few fasteners out and I think it'll come apart.

It's exciting because I'm so close to being done with the destruction phase! I think it will all go faster after this part is over.

Paula, I think you made a wise choice. My husband and I used to want to buy an old house to restore. Now we realize if these little projects are so hard, how would we ever survive a house remodling?!

Thanks for the advice, we'll see how it goes tomorrow.
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Old 01-30-2005, 01:53 AM   #128
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Stephanie,

Are these staples installed from the top? If so then maybe you can get something under them and pry them out. One tool that might work would be to use a flat bladed screw driver with a width that would fit into the staple. Consider sharpening it like a chisel so that you can tap it under the staple. You want a screw driver that is stiff enough to pry out the staple. There also are various types of small size prybars that I have used for this sort of thing. I have one that is flat and about 6" long. You might also try the thick bladed putty knife like type of paint scraper. The one I have has a narrow pointed end on one side that might work for popping out staples.

I hope all goes well,

Malcolm
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Old 01-30-2005, 09:25 PM   #129
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Ok, I discovered they are not staples, they are T shaped nails. I got a screwdriver under one and wriggled it around enough to figure it out. It looks like once I get the bolts out then I can cut through the nails with a chisel. It's coming along now...
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Old 02-01-2005, 12:07 AM   #130
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I Win!

After a two hour marathon session tonight, interrupted only by a trip to the hardware store for a new chisel, I made HUGE progress. I was able to remove all the wood from the track along the front of the trailer. This required using the dremel to cut through the bolts and then cut through the nuts enough to break them open. Then I used the chisel to bust the nails. Then I just grabbed and pulled. Since there was a patch at the door end, a patch across the front, and a rotten spot in the corner, it came out in three big pieces, which fit nicely back together to make a template. You may notice the corner outrigger came out with the wood. I'll fight with that tomorrow.

Really, this hasn't been a hard job, just time consuming, and most of that has been in figuring out what to do. Which I couldn't have done (at least not without more error in my trials) without all the help I've gotten here. Thanks, everyone!

Now, I will cut out the second section of floor (would have done it tonight but it's after 10pm and I don't want to wake the neighbors with my circular saw), and call a welder in here to see about fixing the broken outriggers. I think progress will pick up a bit now. I hope so, because we have camping reservations for May!
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Old 02-01-2005, 09:29 AM   #131
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Looks familiar...............
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Old 02-01-2005, 11:13 AM   #132
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Stephanie,

It looks like you have got it licked...

I was able to use part of the plywood I cut out as a work platform on top of the frame where the floor was gone. If you have big enough pieces you might be able to do that too.

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Old 02-01-2005, 09:34 PM   #133
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I have a 1x12 I use as a platform to span the frame, I just have to be careful to always step between the framerails

Well, tonight I got the rest out, except for the patch right in front of the door. It is held down by three big bolts in the threshold, which two of them are rusted tight, one I have gotten the nut off. They are accessed above the step from below, and there's not much room to get up there and cut them off, but if I can't get them loose tomorrow I guess I will.

So that's about it for the deconstruction. Tomorrow I will get all the remaining bolts out, and the few squares of wood left on the frame rails, and start looking toward the next step.
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Old 02-01-2005, 10:01 PM   #134
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I can't seem to start a new thread, so I'll just ask this here.

I want to add external connections for power, water and cableTV like the new trailers have. Can I get those from a dealer? Are they aluminum or plastic?
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Old 02-02-2005, 04:08 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I can't seem to start a new thread, so I'll just ask this here.

I want to add external connections for power, water and cableTV like the new trailers have. Can I get those from a dealer? Are they aluminum or plastic?
Stef,
The only ones I have seen are plastic, usually in white or gray, but they can be painted silver with Rustoleum but check with an electric supply house and radio shack, and look in there catalogs just to see what else is available. I am going to mount mine in the fridge compartment with a short pigtail that will drop out from underneath so I don't have to cut holes in the skin. I did not like the look of the current covers on my aluminum girl.

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Old 02-02-2005, 06:46 AM   #136
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I have the greatest admiration for you. Are you doing all this work yourself? I have a new 1978 Argosy that my husband and I were planning on redoing. Now he may have to work out of town and I was feeling pretty helpless. You have given me hope and made me feel "I am woman, hear me roar". Of course the coach is sitting backwards in the yard and I know I can't back it, so I won't be taking it out by myself, but I can sure work on the inside. I know I can't back because I had a 1967 Caravel for several years while I was showing dogs. I was never successful in backing it. I think that may take testosterone. I may write to you for help this Spring. Judy
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Old 02-02-2005, 07:36 AM   #137
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Backing Argosy 24

Greetings Judy!

Quote:
Originally Posted by juel
Of course the coach is sitting backwards in the yard and I know I can't back it, so I won't be taking it out by myself, but I can sure work on the inside. I know I can't back because I had a 1967 Caravel for several years while I was showing dogs. I was never successful in backing it. I think that may take testosterone. I may write to you for help this Spring. Judy
Don't despair! Backing is a skill that you can develop - - the key is patience. If you can find help to get your coach out of its current "tight" quarters, a little practice in a large parking lot should help to improve your confidence in backing your coach. One of the things that I learned when shifting from my first travel trailer (a 19' Nomad Special Light single axle) to my tandem axle Airstream, was that the tandem axle coach reacts less quickly to steering input when backing than the smaller single axle coaches making the tandem axle coach a little easier to control (actually much easier to control in my experience).

Good luck with your Argosy 24!

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Old 02-02-2005, 08:06 AM   #138
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Steph

The water inlet can be had from an Airstream dealer - its chrome plated plastic. As far as electrical/cable connections - may in restor world are using http://www.marinco2.com/showProduct.asp?p=303SSO pricy, but very nice. They make ones for cable/phone too.

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Old 02-02-2005, 09:19 AM   #139
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What is it about guys and backing up? I have a heck of a time, while my hubby can back the Caravel in under it's cover in one try! But I have gotten better with practice, and I'm sure you will too.

I am doing all the work except the welding. I will find someone to come out and do that. I've restored a couple cars as well. It's nothing a woman can't do. Have you seen the kind of guys who work on cars? Lets just say a lot of them aren't Einstein, if you get my drift. Most of your problems involve having the guts to use a bigger hammer on it, which men are more comfortable doing. That and a willingness to get dirty, and a high tolerance for hurting yourself. They say no project is complete until you've bled and swore. In fact I usually come in for a band-aid and Dave says 'hey, you're half-way done!'

No offence to any of these guys here. I'm just saying it's certainly something a woman is capable of doing as well.

Thanks for the links!
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Old 02-02-2005, 10:52 AM   #140
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You know my big worry is starting something and not being strong enough to finish it. I usually come upon a bolt or nail or something that I'm just not strong enough to get out. My favorite tool is the hack saw, not the hammer. Sometimes I do more damage trying to fix something around the house. I have became an expert covering up my patch jobs. I bought a reciprocating saw that I thought I would use to replace the floors in my rental unit. It almost beat me to death. If it weren't for my husband, I would have no floors in that place. But, you know I'm certainly going to try to restore the Argosy. You've made me want to do as much as I can. I don't mind getting dirty or getting hurt. Thanks
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