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Old 12-13-2004, 02:07 AM   #85
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more progress...

If you can call destroying my trailer progress! This evening I scrubbed all three front interior panels clean and removed them. The channel looks like it is in good shape. I can see a variety of fasteners - elevator bolts, some installed downward, some installed from underneith, regular hex-head bolts (I assume from the POs repair work) and what appear to be staples. Otherwise no other surprises so far. Tomorrow I'll be cleaning up the side panels and removing them. The one behind the fridge is particularly gross, and it looks like there was a small fire there at one time, the back of the cabinet was charred.

Then I guess we start cutting wood.

Speaking of wood, my husband nixed the polyboard idea. He wants to go with a sure thing, so I guess we'll be using the old standby, Marine-grade plywood.

Here are two pics, one showing the panels off, one showing a bolt and staple in the channel.
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Old 12-13-2004, 01:17 PM   #86
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Stephanie,

In your photo with the bolt and staple I see some aluminum that appears to be bent over the outside edge of the channel. My guess is that is the bananna wrap metal. If that is true then it might be pretty hard for you to get the bananna wrap off to access anything around the edges from below. It looks like it might be installed underneath the upper body panels too. I think this means that it would be a very good idea to use some sort of fastening around the body edges that can be done entirely from above. Can you tell yet if your model has the c-channel on the bottom of the u-channel along the bottom of the walls?

Malcolm
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Old 12-13-2004, 01:38 PM   #87
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Steph

I would say most of us have used ACX plywood - I debated and debated because marine does not have any voids and probably uses a little better core than ACX - in the end I decided to go with ACX. It uses the same glue as marine.

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Old 12-18-2004, 04:12 PM   #88
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Got the streetside panel off. What a fight it put up! I think this is as far as I will be disassembling the trailer. My plan is to replace the wood from the fridge vent on the curbside rearward of the door, around the front and down the streetside to the wheelwell.

Still having trouble getting the vinyl off the part of the floor that I will not be removing.

So what's the next step? This is getting pretty intimidating!
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Old 12-18-2004, 04:36 PM   #89
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I'm afraid this is going to be expensive...

Greetings Stephanie!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Got the streetside panel off. What a fight it put up! I think this is as far as I will be disassembling the trailer. My plan is to replace the wood from the fridge vent on the curbside rearward of the door, around the front and down the streetside to the wheelwell.

Still having trouble getting the vinyl off the part of the floor that I will not be removing.

So what's the next step? This is getting pretty intimidating!
It may not be the first-choice in methodology for a travel trailer, but it is what was used with my '64 Overlander, and an acquaintance utilized this method with a '61 Bambi as well. Running a luan plywood underlayment (.25") over the entire surface to receive new sheet vinyl flooring is a possibility - - it would require using a leveling compound between the old floor with the vinyl covering and the new bare plywood. It added approximately 25 pounds to my Overlander over the "original" carpet. The installer who handled the installation of new Congoleum Industrial Grade sheet vinyl indicated that the underlayment would provide a much more stable substrate than a single layer of plywood - - I am very satsified with the result after three seasons of use.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
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Old 12-18-2004, 05:13 PM   #90
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...Running a luan plywood underlayment (.25") over the entire surface to receive new sheet vinyl flooring is a possibility... It added approximately 25 pounds to my Overlander... I am very satsified with the result after three seasons of use....
I think that will work well as it is a common solution in household situations.

I incorporated a much more labor intensive approach to the situation which I never posted due to the fact that I wanted to test it before recommending the idea. I had a gutted interior at the time, and wanted the re-installation of the base fixtures to mount back in the original rivet/screw holes. My idea adds no appreciable weight to the finshed floor.

So far, so good after six or so trips totaling around 3000 miles through temperatures of 90 degF to below freezing. Be forewarned that my Overlander has only been on the road since September of this year although the floor covering has been down since July or so.

If there is any interest, I will post pictures on my webpage, and provide a link here.

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Old 12-18-2004, 05:17 PM   #91
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Please, let us know what you did. It's always nice to see another possible solution. I know what you mean about not wanting people to follow my lead until I'm sure something worked, but go ahead anyway!

I think the 1/4 luan idea is a good one. It would be better than peeling up the rest of this vinyl, which is taking about a half hour of exhausting work just to get up a square foot.
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Old 12-18-2004, 06:03 PM   #92
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...It would be better than peeling up the rest of this vinyl, which is taking about a half hour of exhausting work just to get up a square foot.
Unfortunately, my idea under test deals primarily with prepping an already smooth floor for receiving sheet vinyl.

Kevin's underlayment idea is better for prepping a floor with existing vinyl.

Tom
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Old 12-19-2004, 09:00 AM   #93
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Stephanie,

Here is a little view of my 67, just to help you along.
25 feet of interior removed. I have removed more since this picture.
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Old 12-20-2004, 06:26 PM   #94
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Stephanie,

If you like the idea of putting 1/4" luan on top of the old vinyl you might be able to find some thinner plywood that is the same thickness as the old vinyl to piece in where the vinyl isn't. One good place to check is Mr Plywood on Stark Street in Portland. They have various sizes of thinner plywoods such as 1/8" for example. Then all you would have use filler on would be the joints.

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Old 12-20-2004, 06:58 PM   #95
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Wow, Tedd! I'm so glad I'm only partially gutting my trailer! It seems like a sure thing that I will eventually put it back together right. I'd be really nervous right now if I'd had to empty it out completely. Good luck on your rebuild!

Thanks for the heads up on Mr Plywood. I need some 1/8 for another project anyway, and had a hard time finding it before, good to know there's a place to go get it. I'll have to figure out exactly what I'm going to need to do the furniture repairs as well and head over there to get it all at once.
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Old 01-12-2005, 05:30 PM   #96
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Back at it!

Ok, my little holiday break is over, and today I went and bought a circular saw ans a crowbar, and started cutting out the rotted wood floor. I found the next stringer under the rotted area, the one closest to the wheelwell, and although it is rusty it feels solid. I'll know more when I get more wood removed around it.

My question now is about wiring. There are wires from the univolt, which go down into the floor. Two white and one red. One red and one white appear to be the battery leads, and they come up through the floor about two feet away from where they went in. I am assuming the blue wire and the other white wire go to the tounge.

Feeling underneith with my hand, the wires seem to have been put in, and then the thick foam insulation was sprayed on, so I am having a hard time telling where these wires go. I am afraid I will cut through wires underneith and make a mess of things. So here's my question-

How many wires should be under there - how many wires come from that seven pin connector to the tow vehicle? Are the wires to the brake lights/running lights in the bellypan?
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Old 01-12-2005, 05:48 PM   #97
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Hmmm - just my understanding - blue should be for electric brakes, then should one lead for the battery and possibly one ground. All brake , running wires should be though the walls.

Course when you cut the floor out you will find out where they go.
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Old 01-12-2005, 06:59 PM   #98
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Well, I have a better idea of where they go now. I've cut out the rotted area (with a little more to go towards the wheelwell) and gotten my first look at the frame itself. So far it looks really good. Hardly even any surface rust. My goal is to get the wood removed from around the broken outrigger so the welder can come out and repair it.

The first picture is the view from inside the trailer, second picture is from outside (through the battery access door), looking towards the broken outrigger.
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