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Old 11-29-2004, 08:24 PM   #29
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Of course you know this is going to turn into a Full Monty?
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Old 11-29-2004, 08:37 PM   #30
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Full Monty? No, I'm still in denial about that. But I'm thinking that maybe I should continue back and remove the fiberglass bathroom shell to see if there's any rot under there needs fixin'. Might as well get it all at once.

Ok, I got the Univolt out ok, but the fusebox is a nightmare! There's three wide white 110v wires coming in the back, and inside the white wires all go to a bar on the side, the grounds all get tied together on the other side, and the power cable comes in from the bottom and gets mixed in there. Gives me a headache to look at it. I mostly wanted to get the big power cable out of the way so I don't have to work around it, but maybe I'd better just leave that mess alone?
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Old 11-30-2004, 07:50 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
Full Monty? No, I'm still in denial about that. But I'm thinking that maybe I should continue back and remove the fiberglass bathroom shell to see if there's any rot under there needs fixin'. Might as well get it all at once.

Ok, I got the Univolt out ok, but the fusebox is a nightmare! There's three wide white 110v wires coming in the back, and inside the white wires all go to a bar on the side, the grounds all get tied together on the other side, and the power cable comes in from the bottom and gets mixed in there. Gives me a headache to look at it. I mostly wanted to get the big power cable out of the way so I don't have to work around it, but maybe I'd better just leave that mess alone?
The three white wires attached to the bar are the neutrals. The bar is isolated from the trailer (not connected to it) and isolated from the grounds ( not connected to them either). This is a floating ground system. You have or have three black or red wires which attach to the breakers. These are the hot wires. If you have AC then one of these may be thicker and go to a breaker with a 20 or 30 on it. Mark the blackwires with a little tape with the size braker they were attached to, 10, 20, 30 ect.
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:24 AM   #32
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I gotta say it: I admire you for tackling all of this stuff. I also admire the forum members who are jumping in to give you guidance. Gotta love this place.

And meanwhile in MIssouri, it's 32 degrees, the snow is steadily falling...
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:03 AM   #33
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Looking under the toilet and shower is a sure sign of a deep desire to do the Full Monty. I found it easy to remove the lounge and dinnette from my 68 Caravel. Fortunately the OP did the floor. I will suggest that you inspect around the fresh fill and under that end of the holding tank as they are prone to leaking at the connection. At least retighten it. I had to redo the floor there because the connection leaked during filling and if over filled.
Think the whole project out or it will take over and you know what that means. I think battery boil over is a problem with the battery floor area once the vinyl is cracked. The PO put a piece of aluminum sheet down (about 1/4") to protect the floor in mine. I think one of those trays for boots would work just as well.

If you don't have to remove the main AC panel then work around it. You have aluminum wire and it's best to not fool around with it too much if you don't have to.
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:46 AM   #34
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I would loosen the belly pan if possible in the rear to get a look at whats underneath the fiberglass - think that would be easier than pulling out the bathroom.

-7 (thats minus) here this morning

Ken
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Old 11-30-2004, 01:17 PM   #35
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Thanks, good ideas. I'll see if I can work around the fusebox, but there is rotted floor right under it, and I think I might have to remove the interior panel it is mounted on to access bolts in that area.

For the battery box I am going to get a sealed box, like you use for trunk mounting a battery in a car. That way I can vent it out the vent hole. In mine the vent rubber was rotted away and the battery was not vented at all.

Good idea about peeking under the bellypan in back. There's a little modification I would like to do to the sewage outlet before next camping season, and the bellypan will probably have to come off for that anyway. But that's another thread...

One thing at a time, and I think I will get through this.
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:44 PM   #36
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Sealed batteries?

Stephanie,

What you said about battery venting brings up a question I have been wondering about.

Is it or is it not true that the new style fully sealed RV batteries would not need to be vented?

I hope you find a good stopping place before your rig starts looking like mine.

Malcolm
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Old 11-30-2004, 08:59 PM   #37
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Steph -- I knew Shari has addressed the asbestos issue in several posts. I found this. I'm not one to say how to handle it. Maybe ask her in that thread what she'd suggest if you really have it.

There is more to asbestos cleanup than this but I know one thing -- from daily work with blue masks I know that they are miserable as respiratory filters in spite of what might seem like a good fit with you. I've got a paint spray respirator and use it all the time. I can breathe as hard as I want and never smell solvents (caution is due in oxygen excluding environments!). It's also reasonably comfortable in warm weather.

Be careful out there!
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Old 11-30-2004, 09:25 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
Stephanie,

What you said about battery venting brings up a question I have been wondering about.

Is it or is it not true that the new style fully sealed RV batteries would not need to be vented?

I hope you find a good stopping place before your rig starts looking like mine.

Malcolm
Sealed batteries or 'Recombinate' will still out gas. Venting the battery box is the best solution for out gasing.
As I have said many times before "get rid of the Univolt" They are bad news on batteries, less than optimum poorly vented battery boxes also.
They will cause batteries to boil dry (Out gas) excessivley.
Purchase a smart charger and save money on batteries because they will last longer and you will not beat up your battery box as much either.
Controlled charging is the only way to go.
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:17 AM   #39
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New winter rally idea

Ok Gary - here's an idea for a winter rally. Stephanie and I will bring our trailers to your neighborhood - then you can talk us through replacing our univolts (something I've been thinking of doing too with an intellipower). I'll bring bacon!
What do ya think?
Marc
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:24 AM   #40
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The next NW Forum rally will be held in my front yard! I've got work enough for everyone

I'll bet we could have the little Caravel fixed and back on the road in one long weekend!
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Old 12-01-2004, 12:39 AM   #41
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Stef,
Maybe it's just me being naive, but everything I've done so far that seems huge and scary and insurmountable has been just a bunch of courage, elbow grease and patience. Your husband is probably right, and if you have it open and want to keep this trailer for a long time, fix it now.

Good luck!
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Old 12-01-2004, 03:37 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
The next NW Forum rally will be held in my front yard! I've got work enough for everyone !
Just say when.....Battle Ground Lake is in your back yard.....right??

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stefrobrts
I'll bet we could have the little Caravel fixed and back on the road in one long weekend!
Don't count on me to fix anything (unless it has four legs).....I'll give you moral support....and some hot mulled wine And with 3M's(really 4M's )Argosy's bacon I think it's do-able!!

(PS-Looking for an excuse to come to WA)

Jim
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